How to I fix this? (leaking h/w tank)
Discussion
I keep having to bleed my h/w circuit in a certain spot or air builds up and it makes a lot of noise - well I think I've finally found out where it's coming from 
The pictures not that clear but theres a lot of wet rust around where the pipe disappears into the nut, before it makes the 90 left at the fitting into the tank. It drips from there once every few minutes.
How does I fix that then? I'm guessing drain it somehow - via a radiator downstairs?
Then... undo that big nut. How likley am I to snap the whole thing off the side of the tank while doing so?
Then... ???
I should add that I've already tried to tighten it and can't get it to move in that direction. Don't want to mess with it too much more till everything's drained.
Cheers in advance!
The pictures not that clear but theres a lot of wet rust around where the pipe disappears into the nut, before it makes the 90 left at the fitting into the tank. It drips from there once every few minutes.
How does I fix that then? I'm guessing drain it somehow - via a radiator downstairs?
Then... undo that big nut. How likley am I to snap the whole thing off the side of the tank while doing so?
Then... ???
I should add that I've already tried to tighten it and can't get it to move in that direction. Don't want to mess with it too much more till everything's drained.
Cheers in advance!
If it's your hot water tank you won't achieve much by draining a radiator 
You need to find a stopcock (check the airing cupboard) so cut off the hot water supply to the cylinder, then open the hot taps until they run dry. Then fix the leak and refill.
BTW I'm not a plumber but that's what I'd do
You need to find a stopcock (check the airing cupboard) so cut off the hot water supply to the cylinder, then open the hot taps until they run dry. Then fix the leak and refill.BTW I'm not a plumber but that's what I'd do
You are indeed likely to snap something off, but if you are careful it's retrievable.
Drain down (tie ballvalve in roof up and drain via hose on a drainoff. Anywhere lower than that connection.)
The pipe is in a compression fitting which is just a nut and olive and will come apart RELATIVELY easily. The fitting itself is on a male thread sticking out of the cylinder, sealed with either PTFE tape or possibly hemp and paste. When you undo it (in the conventional direction) be aware that the thread also has a backnut securing the thread through the side of the cylinder. This may come loose and should be tightened carefully. There is a fibre washer between a flange on the inside and the side of the cylinder. Water from the cylinder itself can leak from here so be prepared to drain it.
Clean the thread with a wire brush, PTFE and wind the fitting back on. Paste, or PTFE if you don't have paste, on the olive, tighten, fill system, bleed, open beer.
Drain down (tie ballvalve in roof up and drain via hose on a drainoff. Anywhere lower than that connection.)
The pipe is in a compression fitting which is just a nut and olive and will come apart RELATIVELY easily. The fitting itself is on a male thread sticking out of the cylinder, sealed with either PTFE tape or possibly hemp and paste. When you undo it (in the conventional direction) be aware that the thread also has a backnut securing the thread through the side of the cylinder. This may come loose and should be tightened carefully. There is a fibre washer between a flange on the inside and the side of the cylinder. Water from the cylinder itself can leak from here so be prepared to drain it.
Clean the thread with a wire brush, PTFE and wind the fitting back on. Paste, or PTFE if you don't have paste, on the olive, tighten, fill system, bleed, open beer.
Edited by Ferg on Friday 29th May 06:24
Simpo Two said:
If it's your hot water tank you won't achieve much by draining a radiator You need to find a stopcock (check the airing cupboard) so cut off the hot water supply to the cylinder, then open the hot taps until they run dry. Then fix the leak and refill.
BTW I'm not a plumber but that's what I'd do
Ignore him. You need to find a stopcock (check the airing cupboard) so cut off the hot water supply to the cylinder, then open the hot taps until they run dry. Then fix the leak and refill.BTW I'm not a plumber but that's what I'd do
Got round to sorting this out this weekend - it was the silvery metal pipe that had corroded. Started at the end and corroded back to a point outside the olive, it just crumbled away when I took it off. It can't have been very far from dumping everything all over my hallway ceiling 
So I got some bits and bobs and made a new bit from the 3 way valve to the tank... took me all bloody day thanks to a few schoolboy errors buy hay, its done now.
The inside of the pipes was in an awful state, choked up with black and corrosion. So I went for the flushy stuff in the end, got to leave it in for a month apparently.
Many thanks for all the advice!
Neil
So I got some bits and bobs and made a new bit from the 3 way valve to the tank... took me all bloody day thanks to a few schoolboy errors buy hay, its done now. The inside of the pipes was in an awful state, choked up with black and corrosion. So I went for the flushy stuff in the end, got to leave it in for a month apparently.
Many thanks for all the advice!
Neil
Gassing Station | Homes, Gardens and DIY | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff