Just got back from the DPRK (North Korea)....

Just got back from the DPRK (North Korea)....

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Alfachick

Original Poster:

1,639 posts

199 months

Wednesday 20th October 2010
quotequote all
So I just got back today from North Korea or to give it its proper name the Democratic Peoples Republic of Korea. I thought a few of you might be interested in seeing a few pics and whatnot. So heres a bit of a speel and some of the better pics.

First off me and my dad decided that it would be a good idea to go to the DPRK, and then decided to take the train there. So the train went a bit like this...
Montrose to London - one night
London to Belgium - 2.5 hours
Belgum to Colone - 2.5 hours
Colone to Warsaw - one night
Warsaw to Moscow.- one night

Two days in Moscow. Just time enough to see the Kremlin, Red Square, the Revolutionary Museum and some of the more spectacular tube stations and of course the Moscow state circus.



Then it was a 3 day train journey to Krasnoyarsk in a typical solviet era sleeper train, 4 to a compartment in second class. Not much to see out the windows apart from a LOT of birch trees for 3 whole days.

After a rest day in Krasnoyarsk it was off to Irkusk which took another 2 nights on the train. We had 3 days here, so we took a day to go on the Circumbikal Railway (yes another train rolleyes )
But it was totally worth it as Lake Biakal is a beautiful place. It is the largest fresh water lake in the world, it holds as much water as the 5 biggest of the great lakes combined. The railway is now mostly unused apart from the tourist train so you could get off and explore parts of the railway and have a bit of a wander around.



One of the funny things that they seem to do in Irkusk is when people get married they put a padlock with their names on it on the fence that runs along the river and throw the key into the river. A very romantic idea I think.



After Irkusk it was off on the train again to Mongolia, more specifically Ulanbator.

Alfachick

Original Poster:

1,639 posts

199 months

Wednesday 20th October 2010
quotequote all
The Mongolian people were so very friendly and welcoming, much more so than the Russians that we had encountered on the way. We only had 3 nights in Ulanbator so we decided that we would do a short one night trip out to a ger camp to meet some of the people who live in the countryside and experience a night in a Ger. There really is not very much in the countryside at all...



After the far too brief stay in Mongolia it was time for our penultimate train to Bejing, the last stop before the DPRK.

We had one night in Bejing before flying out (boo hiss) to Pyongyang on an OLD Tupelov (sp?) TU154. Note the open window in the cockpit.



There is normally one flight per week from Bejing to Pyongyang, apart from this week. There were 4 on this one day, due to the number of journalists that had been 'invited' to cover the large military parade that was taking place on the Sunday. Unfortunately we tourists were not allowed to go and watch this spectacle frown
Apparently the journalists got to go on the 'new' Boeing whilst we were left with the Tupelov. Nice.

Alfachick

Original Poster:

1,639 posts

199 months

Wednesday 20th October 2010
quotequote all
So after an uneventful flight, thank god, we arrived at Pyongyang airport. It took an AGE to get through immigration and customs, although I think this was due to the fact that they were still processing the previous flight with all the journalists on it! Customs were surprisingly relaxed, although you had to hand your mobile phone into them, which they then wrapped up tight and put in a locker to be collected when you left.

The first day of sightseeing we were taken on the Underground which is amazing, but not quite as spectacular as the Moscow underground. Then to the Arc de Triumph. No we hadn't accidentally gone to Paris, they had just copied it and DPRKed it.



I was feeling ill by this point and went back to the hotel so missed out on seeing the classic Kim Il Sung statue, where the rest of the group had to lay flowers and bow. A bit disappointed about that but it meant that I was fit to go to the DMZ the next day.

The 2 hour bus journey to the DMZ was quite telling about the state of the country, we passed rice field after rice field. We were on a 4 lane motorway yet only saw about 5 other vehicles using the motorway in the 2 hour trip. Some of the bridges that we went over were quite scary as it seems that motorway maintenance is quite low down on their list of priorities.

Anyway, this is how the entrance to the DMZ looks from the North side.



We had to line up single file to be counted in.



Then once in and at the border we had a glimpse of South Korea. You can see there are many CCTV cameras on the large building watching the North, it is mirrored on the North side, albeit slightly more low tech and the building is proper 1970s brutalist architecture.



The huts in the middle of the photo straddle the border between North and South. We were allowed to go into the middle one which is where they hold peace talks.
Mum and dad in South Korea. Note the plaque in the background with all the flags of the countries that support South Korea, there is no plaque like this on the North side.



After being counted back out of the DMZ and back onto the bus we visited Casson (sp) where we had lunch and saw yet another statue of the Great Leader Kim Il Sung. Casson is much more run down than Pyongyang, but unlike Pyongyang it survived relatively unscathed from the Korean war, even though it is right next to the DMZ, so there are some older more traditional type buildings in amongst the concrete flats.

Alfachick

Original Poster:

1,639 posts

199 months

Wednesday 20th October 2010
quotequote all
On the way back to Pyongyang we stopped at a motorway service station, possibly the only one in the DPRK. It reminded me somewhat of some of the services on the M6, except there were no cars, no petrol stations, nothing actually inside the building, and no people apart from us our guides (guards) and about 2 people selling coffee and other random stuff for tourists. Including surprisingly enough Coca Cola. Note the complete lack of cars on the road in the first picture.





We also stopped at the 'Three Charters of Reunification' monument just as it was getting dark. This monument forms an arch over the motorway as you come into or leave Pyongyang.



The next day the first thing on the agenda was a trip to see Kim Il Sung in his rather large mausoleum. When I say rather large I mean MASSIVE. It was surrounded by a moat as well, as you do, and completely lined in marble, with jade inlaid floors and what not. There was also a large room full of all the medals and doctorates that the Great leader had been presented with throughout his life, from both the DPRK (natch) and from countries around the world. Unfortunately pictures were not allowed inside. Not that you would want to take a photo of a dead dictator anyway.



After that excitement we were taken to the Peoples Study Palace, which is basically the DPRKs version of the British Library. They also hold lectures here on various science and social science subjects, which anyone can turn up to for free, and various day and evening courses on the sciences and languages. All for free for anyone who can turn up.



The view from the peoples study palace, you may recognise the square from the news...



After showing off their library to us our guides then took us to the maternity hospital. The place was massive, they don't do things on a small scale here thats for sure.
We were told about how anyone who is under the age of 30 in Pyongyang was born here, and how they have excellent facilities. The facillities are so good infact that any woman who is going to have triplets or quadruplets, wherever she is in the country is transported here to have them. We were then told that all three or four of them are taken into an orphanage by the state. Not so cool. I think I would be a bit miffed to have given birth to 3 children only for them to be taken away immediately and for ever.



The facilities at the hospital were really basic, and I would think that this is all that the whole country has.



After all this excitement, i.e me asking the question "so what is the survival rate of triplets?", which wasn't answered, we had another long bus journey to a place north of Pyongyang called 'Mysterious Fragrance Mountain" (rough translation).

Alfachick

Original Poster:

1,639 posts

199 months

Wednesday 20th October 2010
quotequote all
At our new hotel we were greeted by this as we walked through the door.



Lovely.

We were taken to a Buddhist temple the next day, which was nice and made a change from seeing the concrete and marble lined edifices of the previous few days.



Then it was off to the 'Friendship Exhibition' which is basically a nuclear bunker built into a hillside that holds all the gifts that Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Ill have been given by various people, countries and leaders over the years. There are over 200 HUGE rooms in Kim Il Sungs' bunker and over 50 rooms in Kim Jong Ills bunker. The doors each weigh over 4 tons and are solid metal although they are well hung (thats what she said) so easy to open. Again we were not allowed to take pictures inside.



After this excitement we were carted off back to Pyongyang to see the Army circus, which was amazing, before going to a hot spa place. For the night.

The next day we were taken to see the engineering marvel of the West sea barrage, whose construction had been guided by the Great Leader Kim Il Sung himself. Obviously rolleyes



Then onwards to an orphanage on the way back to Pyongyang. This place was really heartbreaking. The children all looked a bit grubby and had been made to put on a 'show' for us. Also TWO sets of tripplets were wheeled out for us, probably to prove that there is a 100% survival rate, and that no child ever dies in the DPRK.





Also on the way back to Pyongyang we were taken to a water bottling plant. Hugely exciting. Honest.



This was all before lunch! The best was to come in the afternoon.

Alfachick

Original Poster:

1,639 posts

199 months

Wednesday 20th October 2010
quotequote all
After lunch in one of Pyongyangs many revolving restaurants we were taken first to the 'Imperial War Museum of the Fatherland', which was really quite interesting.
We were shown a short video on how the USA started the Korean war, and then whisked around a few of the many rooms in the museum. Including an underground room with war planes in it, and a huge room full of captured stuff from the Americans.

Mig 15


Row of captured tanks


Then it was straight off to the 'Children's Palace' where we were shown around some of the classrooms. This place is where children can go after school to learn extra curricular activities, such as dance, art, music, gymnastics, etc etc etc. Of course each classroom we went into the children performed something for us. It was quite interesting. The place is HUGE. Although I am not sure how much of it is used all the time.
At the end of the tour we were treated to a proper variety performance put on by the children. It was spectacular, and the first time I had seen children enjoying performing.





After this spectacular the day just got even better. Although we didn't have time for supper, any hunger was soon forgotten as we were taken to the Mass Games at the May Day Stadium.

Alfachick

Original Poster:

1,639 posts

199 months

Wednesday 20th October 2010
quotequote all
Obviously this was one of the main reasons for coming to the DPRK so we were all very pleased to be seeing this spectacle for ourselves. And what a spectacle it is. It must be one of the most amazing things in the whole world. The May Day stadium itself is a wonder, it seats 150,000 people and is built in the shape of a Magnolia, the national flower of the DPRK.



The Mass games takes place for about 2 months of the year, and there are 100,000 performers in it. Not including the 20,000 school children who provide the backdrop to the games themselves. The screen at the back is a giant grandstand filled with these children all holding up a book full of coloured pages which they turn in time to create new pictures. It really is an amazing effect and it is basically using people as pixels.



People as pixels. Sorry about the blury pic, camera was on full 24x optical zoom and quite hard to hold still enough to get a sharp pic.


I think I took about 200 pictures and videos of the mass games as it just was so spectacular. I wont show you them all but here are a few of the better ones...










Alfachick

Original Poster:

1,639 posts

199 months

Wednesday 20th October 2010
quotequote all
The final full day in the DPRK we were taken to the national film studio, where Kim Jong Ill regularly visits, I think he has visited over 500 times.
Of course there is the obligitary statue.



There were lots of fake streets from around the world and we were also treated to about 10 mins of one of the films that they have made here. I think they only have about 5 story lines that they make again and again and again.

Then it was a quick visit to the 'Embroidery institute' where we saw some spectacular embroidery being created in dimly lit rooms, and what looked like a performance chart of some description.





Then it was off to the 'Tower of the Juche Idea' which is quite a spectacular monument. Unfortunately the lift was 'broken' so we could not go to the top.



Then the last big monument of the trip the 'Workers Party Founding Monument' built in the 1990s to commemerate the founding of the Workers Party of Korea. This monument really is MASSIVE.





Then finally a walk around the park after lunch to get some views of Pyongyang.





Finally the next day we were at the end of the trip and it was time to get on board the train to Bejing.



At the border between the DPRK and China our cameras were checked twice by customs officials to make sure that we hadn't taken any photos of things that we shouldn't have, but apart from that and a very quick check of one or two bags it was fairly quick and painless.

So that was the DPRK. If anyone wants any more info on part of the trip let me know and I will do my best to oblige with pics and info if I can.

Thanks for reading smile

Alfachick

Original Poster:

1,639 posts

199 months

Wednesday 20th October 2010
quotequote all
badboyburt said:
did you count the padlocks ?
No smile

v15ben said:
Very interesting to read and see the photos from the DPRK. I am heading to the DMZ from the other side in a few weeks and a group of us are seriously considering a trip to the DPRK proper in 2011. Which tour company did you use and how did you find their service? smile
We went with Regent travel, they are a UK based company and they were fantastic. Once you are in the DPRK you are taken round by the 'Korean International Travel Company' but I think that Regent have a say in the ittineary.
Our group was only 10 people so it was really good as we all got on really well (thank god) and there was more time to speak with the guides and less people to get in the way of your photos etc. Also by the end of the week we had managed to get the guides to loosen up a little which was ace.

Alfachick

Original Poster:

1,639 posts

199 months

Wednesday 20th October 2010
quotequote all
downthepub said:
Wow, thanks for posting.

How easy was getting all the paperwork sorted for visiting DPRK? It doesn't seem the easiest country to get into. Did the travel agents handle all the visa stuff?
Yes the travel agent sorted out all the visas and stuff. The form was quite intense, but the Russian one is way worse. We didn't find it hard getting a visa at all. I think if you were American or a journalist then it would be nearly impossible. Also I think that if you are planning on going get the visa before you go to Bejing or you could be very dissapointed. Our visa only covered us for te 8 days that we were in the country booked on the tour. You can only get into the country if you go on one of the tours.

I am also not sure if you can get into the country from the South. I think that you have to go in via Bejing or possibly Vladivostok. I know that Regent travel strongly recommended that we fly in as it would be less time at the border and it is a bit more relaxed.

Stu R said:
Like the 'merkins on the video suggest, I got the impression that everything people get to see there is stage managed from start to finish so as to put on a good show and pretend everything is 'tickety-boo'. Doesn't half make you wonder what life is like beyond that which you're permitted to see.

Edited by Stu R on Wednesday 20th October 02:34
Yes everything that you see there is the best of the best and of course stage managed. Also if you ask any awkward questions then they will be totally blanked and not answered.
Even their best of the best hospital and school wise is shoddy. It was like stepping back in time to what I imagine the 1950's were like in the UK after the 2nd World War.


PaulHogan said:
Great post(s)!

Did you get any free (unescorted) time at all? Could you wander out of the hotel and go to a restaurant/bar?

Why is there a big '65' over the stadium? [I know the significance of the date, but do they use our numbers alongside their text?]

And (rudely) what did your trip cost? Feel free, of course, to ignore this question for any reason you like.
It was quite hard to wander away from the guides. We had 3 guides and a bus driver for our group of 10. Although my dad did keep wandering off and taking pics of stuff only for one of the guides to run over to him and keep him company / round him up / tell him not to look over there please once they had realised he was not with the group, so that left only 2 guides for the rest of us.
You were allowed to walk out of our hotels although "not past the gate and please don't take your cameras with you".

The 65 signifies the 65th anniversary of the founding of the Peoples Workers Party. Yes they do seem to use our numbers a fair amount in their texts although I am not sure if they use it the whole time, as I don't know the Korean text.

The tour just from Bejing - DPRK - Bejing cost about £1500 for the 8 days. This fee included the visa service, all flights and trains, all hotels, all meals, transport in the DPRK, and the guide service. So once we were there the only thing that we needed money for was souveniers and tipping the guides at the end.

Paddy_N_Murphy said:
Really?
ALL your photos? Cripes.

You said you took hundreds at the Games !
No not all our photos, we knew they were going to do that so set the camera to start playing the pictures in the middle of the mass games. The fist check he only flicked through a few until he got bored but the second check the woman specifically asked to see pictures that we had taken on the train journey to the border.

Also to anyone who is thinking of going then you should. We felt very safe the whole time that we were there. Put it like this, it would be very bad propaganda to let anything bad happen to a tourist whilst out there. Just have some common sense about you and you will be fine.

HTH thumbup

Alfachick

Original Poster:

1,639 posts

199 months

Wednesday 20th October 2010
quotequote all
dienamic said:
That looks amazing! Just one question though, If you had your phone confiscated at the airport, and left by train, did you get it back?
Yes you did, you got a receipt for your phone when you left it, if you then gave this to the guides then they would pick it up for you and give it back to you the day you left.

Alfachick

Original Poster:

1,639 posts

199 months

Wednesday 20th October 2010
quotequote all
cottonfoo said:
Great photos, but those poor little kids frown
Yeah thats what we thought. It was quite heartbreaking. The place smelt really strongly of iodine and st. Not a very nice place for them to be. But then it is an Orphanage frown And we were only shown the best of the best, I have no idea what other ones in the country are like.

Alfachick

Original Poster:

1,639 posts

199 months

Wednesday 20th October 2010
quotequote all
mybrainhurts said:
Is he rearry as ronery as he makes out...?
That was sung under my breath a few times....

I think he is wink

And yes it would be very easy to swap SD cards to take a few 'incriminating' pics and then hide it. One of the guys in our group hadn't taken his camera charger with him and his battery was dead so they couldn't look at his pics. They were fine with that. A calculated risk to take.

It was a real eye opener for sure.

Something that you have to remember when traveling is that no matter what the politics are people are still just people and generally all want the same thing. Which is just to get on with their lives, and try to build a better future for their children.

Alfachick

Original Poster:

1,639 posts

199 months

Wednesday 20th October 2010
quotequote all
Pints said:
I don't suppose you know why triplets and quadruplets are taken away from their mothers, do you? Very sad indeed.
Well the official story is that it is hard for a family to raise three or four children at once so the state takes them to take care of them properly. But why take all three or four? It was a bit fishy really. I don't think it would be possible to find out the 'real' reason as any awkward questions are just dismissed / ignored.

Alfachick

Original Poster:

1,639 posts

199 months

Thursday 28th October 2010
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Pints said:
Alfachick said:
Something that you have to remember when traveling is that no matter what the politics are people are still just people and generally all want the same thing. Which is just to get on with their lives, and try to build a better future for their children.
This is why I often wonder why the masses put up with such malarky from deluded dictators. I suppose the answer to that question is obvious but it still hard to accept that it continues to happen in the DPRK and other countries (Zimbabwe, Cuba, etc.)
I can't for a moment believe that the greater population are actually happy to live like that.

Edited by Pints on Thursday 21st October 15:16
You also have to realize that the people in North Korea have NO contact with the outside world whatsoever, apart from the tourist guides. They only have one tv channel, which is state run. All the news papers are state run, all the films shown are made by the state. All they know is what the state have told them. The vast majority of the population just don't KNOW what happens in other countries.

They have all gone to school funded by the state and are fed propaganda from a very very young age. As far as the average person is concerned Kim il Sung is the Great leader, and is still the President even though he has been dead for 15 years! And Kim Jong Il is the Dear Leader, and the countries Prime Minister.

It was very strange. Most people that we were allowed to speak to i.e. guides seemed to really believe that Reunification between North and South could happen and they did really want it to happen. Even at the mass games there was an act that was all about the reunification of North and South. And the mass games are not put on for tourists they are for the North Koreans.
The national psyche in the North seems to be regretful of the Korean war after the peninsular had been occupied by the Japs and freedom had been gained from that only for the country to be split in two.

I bought an interestingly titled book when I was over there called "The Distortion of How the USA Impreialists Started the Korean War", which is an 'academic' text. The whole country believes that the USA started the Korean war and that the USA installed a "puppet government" in South Korea to do their bidding [devils advocate] which may not be too far from the truth [/devils advocate].


I am glad that folk appreciate the pics smile It was a very interesting holiday. In fact the time in the DPRK was relaxing after the trip there! Strange but true.

Below is a mural that greeted us on our entry to a middle school. Just so you can start to get an idea of the kind of propaganda that is constantly fed to children.



Alfachick

Original Poster:

1,639 posts

199 months

Thursday 30th December 2010
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jumplead said:
Apologies for bringing this up from the depths of the forum,

Alfachick did it look as if any work was going on or had taken place at the huge hotel that dwarfs the rest of Pyongyang. DPRK is a place I'd really like to go and seeing more and more of these type of reviews just drives my curiosity further.
Yeah that hotel was nearly finished on the outside now. Most of the glass was on it, along with the 5 revolving restraunts at the top!
I will find a pic and post it up tomorrow. Offshore at the mo so kinda hard to lay my hand on a pic right away.