Peugeot Boxer Not Starting Or Turning Over

[Lots]

Hi all,

Grateful for any help anyone can give.

I have a 2013 2.2hdi Peugeot Boxer, its a second van so isn't used much but always starts without issue even after being left for a while...it was started just under a month ago no problem, went to start it yesterday and it was dead so thought it was probably the battery. Charged the battery only took 4 hours to charge so it obviously wasn't empty, lights etc all working no issues but it wont turn over, I can hear the relays kicking in but the starter motor doesn't click? Have checked battery cables - all ok, fuses under the bonnet and next to steering wheel all ok and have even changed the battery in the key fob.

Any suggestions? Thanks

[GreenV8S]

Weak battery, failed alarm/immob, wiring fault, faulty starter motor. Ten minutes with a voltmeter would tell you which.

[Lots]

Battery is fine. Have gone over the battery with a meter and all reading normal. I haven't checked the immobiliser I think its the silver box next to the battery!? Would I just remove the cover and meter that? I've had a feel and all connections seem to be fine on the starter motor.

[E-bmw]

Lots said:

Battery is fine. Have gone over the battery with a meter and all reading normal.

Define "normal"

[Lots]

Normal as in reading correctly with the correct voltage, amps etc

[Josho]

Where are you located? I've had a lot of dealings with these.

[Lots]

South Wales near Swansea... Any ideas on what it can be?. ..going to try and get right underneath the van tomorrow and check the Solenoid.

[Saleen836]

Sticking starter motor? put it in 2nd gear and rock the van back and fourth or get someone to start the van while you tap the starter with a hammer

[the tribester]

If the power is reaching the solenoid/starter when the relay clicks, it'll be there.
Failed solenoid or stuck/failed starter motor.

[GreenV8S]

Lots said:

Normal as in reading correctly with the correct voltage, amps etc

Specifically what did you measure, and how?

It seems pretty unlikely that you're seeing 'normal' amps given that the starter is not engaging.

[E-bmw]

Lots said:

Normal as in reading correctly with the correct voltage, amps etc

OK, I will make this REAL simple then.

What exact voltage did you measure?

[Lots]

Thanks everyone for the replies and for the advice much appreciated.

In regards to the "REAL" simple question... I have measured the voltage on the battery I can't measure anything else as it obviously not starting.

[t400ble]

So you cannot for example measure power at the starter?

[Lots]

Haven't tried that yet going to try and get under it today but unfortunately it's really hard to get to as it's parked next to a wall and on slightly raised ground making it difficult to get to plus its absolutely piddling down.. but I'm a woman on a mission this morning! Will report back after I've tried to get under.

[shakindog]

Battery voltage will drop as you turn the key as the starter will have resistance if it’s jammed or sticking.
Hit the starter with a hammer or strong bar while someone tries to turn it over may get it going so you can either take to garage or move to a better position to work on

[Lots]

Thanks will give it a go and report back

[paintman]

If you're using a digital multimeter to check the battery then you may well get a reading that leads you to believe the battery is fine.
It does not indicate that the battery has sufficient amperage to turn the engine over.
Despite your short charge the battery may be duff. Substitute a good battery or jump leads from another vehicle to check.

Also worth connecting a jump lead direct from battery earth terminal to a good earth point on the block to see if that makes a difference. If it does it points to an issue - usually corrosion - with the earthing straps or their mounting points. Sheathed ones can appear fine at the ends, but can be corroded to nothing inside the sheathing.

Common issue with people using digital meters to trace vehicle electrical issues is that the meter will show battery voltage present e.g 12.5 volts at the test point & they assume that everything is fine & then start replacing stuff but nothing happens.
What they SHOULD have done is to then test with a test bulb to confirm that the circuit functions with a load. If the bulb doesn't light then you need to find out why. (I THINK that an analogue meter will also do that but I'd need that confirmed or laughed at by one of our more learned members!)
Last time had that on my own car was the fuel pump which turned out to be corrosion in the wiring on the loom side of the multiplug which had reduced the wire to a couple of strands.

[Penelope Stopit]

paintman said:

If you're using a digital multimeter to check the battery then you may well get a reading that leads you to believe the battery is fine.
It does not indicate that the battery has sufficient amperage to turn the engine over.
Despite your short charge the battery may be duff. Substitute a good battery or jump leads from another vehicle to check.

Also worth connecting a jump lead direct from battery earth terminal to a good earth point on the block to see if that makes a difference. If it does it points to an issue - usually corrosion - with the earthing straps or their mounting points. Sheathed ones can appear fine at the ends, but can be corroded to nothing inside the sheathing.

Common issue with people using digital meters to trace vehicle electrical issues is that the meter will show battery voltage present e.g 12.5 volts at the test point & they assume that everything is fine & then start replacing stuff but nothing happens.
What they SHOULD have done is to then test with a test bulb to confirm that the circuit functions with a load. If the bulb doesn't light then you need to find out why. (I THINK that an analogue meter will also do that but I'd need that confirmed or laughed at by one of our more learned members!)
Last time had that on my own car was the fuel pump which turned out to be corrosion in the wiring on the loom side of the multiplug which had reduced the wire to a couple of strands.

A swing meter will give the terminal voltage similar to what a digital meter shows but chances are it will be less accurate, it won't load the circuit

This post hits the nail on the head, there is only one way to be sure of anything when measuring voltages and that is to measure with no load and then measure again with the load of the circuit being on......In your case you need to measure for good battery voltage, starter earth, starter positive and solenoid pull-in voltage while someone holds the key in the crank position, don't have the key held over for too long as cables may overheat depending upon what the fault is

As paintman has commented........It's all about load

Measuring without the load is a load of bks, "pun intended"

9.6 Volts is the minimum voltage that should be at the battery when cranking.........if the voltage drops lower get searching for a fault

Edited by Penelope Stopit on Thursday 11th October 10:51

[Lots]

Rock test didn't work did however hear a click for the first time trying to start it after rocking it over the gear but only heard it just the once.

Read the battery (analogue meter) read 12v and didn't move when I tried to turn over the ignition.

All cables that can see look fine on starter motor but cannot get to it properly to read it or tap it.. would have to remove pipes to get to it.

So all in all no further forward looks like I'll have to call someone out.

Thanks for all the help really appreciated.

[Penelope Stopit]

Lots said:

Rock test didn't work did however hear a click for the first time trying to start it after rocking it over the gear but only heard it just the once.

Read the battery (analogue meter) read 12v and didn't move when I tried to turn over the ignition.

All cables that can see look fine on starter motor but cannot get to it properly to read it or tap it.. would have to remove pipes to get to it.

So all in all no further forward looks like I'll have to call someone out.

Thanks for all the help really appreciated.

Can you get a length of wood through to the starter and hit the wood while someone holds the key over

The thing is there should have been at least a slight drop in battery voltage when turning the key to crank