Drop link replacement - tools required

[MakaveliX]

Have a fair bit of experience working with cars but just need some advice on whether getting drop links off an old 2002 Merc will be easier with an impact wrench ?

I have loads of tools ( sockets, breaker bar, pry bar, torque wrench, 1/2" to 3/8" adapters, ratcheting spanners, etc ) but no impact wrench

When the link gets here I will hopefully be fitting it this week. Mainly because it is clunking a bit but does not have any excessive play in it.

I will be getting some long nose vice grips to hold the thread still whilst I use a spanner to ( hopefully ) loosen the 16mm nuts.

Before I start I want to make sure I have all the tools needed. Car is not my daily so it can stay on axle stands whilst parts come so no rush at all.

Thanks !

[InitialDave]

A wire brush and some good penetrating oil (PB Blaster is excellent) are probably your best starting options here, the main way drop links cause hassle is the nut undoes fractionally, locks up on the corrosion on the thread, and then spins the whole thing in its mounting hole rather than undoing.

If there are spanner flats or an internal hex to stop it rotating, use them, but don't be surprised if the latter chews up if it's even a little tight.

Got an angle grinder with a thin disc on it? I tend to just cut the nut off at the first sign of it giving me hassle now, not an option if you need to reuse the original links, unless you're very careful.

[MakaveliX]

InitialDave said:

A wire brush and some good penetrating oil (PB Blaster is excellent) are probably your best starting options here, the main way drop links cause hassle is the nut undoes fractionally, locks up on the corrosion on the thread, and then spins the whole thing in its mounting hole rather than undoing.

If there are spanner flats or an internal hex to stop it rotating, use them, but don't be surprised if the latter chews up if it's even a little tight.

Got an angle grinder with a thin disc on it? I tend to just cut the nut off at the first sign of it giving me hassle now, not an option if you need to reuse the original links, unless you're very careful.

Thanks.
Internal hex yes, but it looks like it is nackered to the point it is round ( I haven't done any work yet just doing some homework )
It does have a spanner flat ( if this is what you mean )


I have never used an angle grinder before. Can see they are going for £90 at toolstation.

Photo is taken from YouTube of the design of the links.

[Jakg]

(not a mechanic)

Drop links don't usually seize in such a way an impact can help.

You undo a nut on a ball joint - the primary issue is holding the ball joint still (with it's hex/torx end, flats etc) while putting sufficient torque into the nut.

In the past I've cut down spanners to be slim enough to fit on the flats without damaging the boot.

MakaveliX said:

I will be getting some long nose vice grips to hold the thread still whilst I use a spanner to ( hopefully ) loosen the 16mm nuts.

Is there enough thread poking out for this to work? Not on any I've seen (but again, not a mechanic).

I've had to grab the other side with a mole grip before, but it's not great:

[MakaveliX]

Jakg said:

Is there enough thread poking out for this to work? Not on any I've seen (but again, not a mechanic).

I will have a proper look when the weather picks up this week. Car in air, wheels off, and see how much room I actually have to work with
In the mean time - here are two photos off YouTube which show the top and bottom ( the guy on the video does say to use mole grips but again, YouTube always makes it look easy !! )

[E-bmw]

As they can be a bit problematic to hold, I tend to go nuclear straight off \7 reach for the angle grinder.

If it is going to just be an occasional tool you can pick them up for MUCH less than £90.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Black-Decker-BEG010A5-GB-...

[MakaveliX]

I said £90 as they were cordless. But just remembered if I get a corded one with a 5 meter power extension that could do the trick and be much cheaper as you said.

[MakaveliX]

Just changed the drivers side link. No issue at all thankfully.
Used some WD40 penetrating fluid, wire brush, then used a 7mm socket to keep the link still whilst I used a spanner to undo the old link.

New link went on easy without having to grip anything, just a simple spanner job all done within an hour.

Not bad for a 22 Year old Mercedes.

As expected one of the rubber boots was torn and damaged.

[Bainbridge]

That's good news, hope the other side goes just as well.

If you do end up using a grinder, use the side handle if you can for safety.