If you boil your brake fluid should you change it?

If you boil your brake fluid should you change it?

Author
Discussion

Scoobman

Original Poster:

450 posts

220 months

Thursday 2nd June 2011
quotequote all
Quick question

I have lost my brakes a couple of times after the fluid has got too hot.

Should you change it after this occurs.

Does the fluid once cooled return to the same state it was before or does cooking it degrade its state?

Thanks

thinfourth2

32,414 posts

219 months

Thursday 2nd June 2011
quotequote all
if its boiled its probably got water in it

Change it

rovermorris999

5,289 posts

204 months

Thursday 2nd June 2011
quotequote all
Was this on a track? In normal but hard road use this would suggest old fluid which will have absorbed some water. If on a track and the fluid is recent, you need a better spec fluid.

SteveS Cup

1,996 posts

175 months

Thursday 2nd June 2011
quotequote all
Are you sure you're boiling the fluid and not just experiencing brake fade?

wackojacko

8,581 posts

205 months

Thursday 2nd June 2011
quotequote all
Shouldn't be able to boil suitable and fresh brake fluid.


It would have moisture in it, usually try and change it once a year....

Scoobman

Original Poster:

450 posts

220 months

Thursday 2nd June 2011
quotequote all
Thanks all - will change it ASAP
(Need to sort out some brake cooling as well)

Fleckers

2,878 posts

216 months

Thursday 2nd June 2011
quotequote all
sounds trackyday to me

change it
fit better pads
fit vented/groved/drilled pades
fit ducking from front of car to brake area
learn to drive in a different manner to stop the excessive brake uage


pacman1

7,323 posts

208 months

Thursday 2nd June 2011
quotequote all
SteveS Cup said:
Are you sure you're boiling the fluid and not just experiencing brake fade?
Ain't that one and the same?

Hitler Hadrump

1,750 posts

188 months

Thursday 2nd June 2011
quotequote all
You can buy a little pen thing to test the water content of your brake fluid, but it's probably just cheaper to change it.

If in doubt, flush it out!

eldar

23,811 posts

211 months

Thursday 2nd June 2011
quotequote all
pacman1 said:
Ain't that one and the same?
Think so, the fluid boils, creating vapour which is compressible, so the pedal travel increases.

skinley

1,681 posts

175 months

Thursday 2nd June 2011
quotequote all
pacman1 said:
Ain't that one and the same?
There are several things which can cause brake fade, boiling fluid is one of them but brake fade doesn't necessarily mean boiled fluid.

Rich1973

1,234 posts

192 months

Thursday 2nd June 2011
quotequote all
As I understand it, brake fade is when the contact areas of the pad and disc become so hot as to no longer provide suitable friction. The pedal should still be firm but give little by way of retardation. If the fluid has become so hot as to fail then the pedal will have much more travel to it. Do you know which one it is?

Nick3point2

3,920 posts

195 months

Thursday 2nd June 2011
quotequote all
Nope, heating brake fluid will boil off any water and make it better. It's an old trick for improving existing brake fluid instead of changing it (in places like Cuba where automotive supplies are hugely restricted). Pour it in a pan, bring it to the boil, put back in car.

Ozzie Osmond

21,189 posts

261 months

Thursday 2nd June 2011
quotequote all
Vapour in the system, whether from "boiling" or otherwise, is the clearest possible indication of a fundamental problem with your brake system. At the very least you need a fluid change and I suggest a long, hard look at your car and the way you are using it. Could be a classic case of "I fitted harder pads and....."

kambites

69,455 posts

236 months

Thursday 2nd June 2011
quotequote all
As above, I don't think boiling the fluid will have done it any harm but if you did manage to do so, it's probably indicative of the fluid already being past its best and/or not good enough for the car/driving.

I'd change it.

SteveS Cup

1,996 posts

175 months

Thursday 2nd June 2011
quotequote all
Brake fade is normally excessive heat from the discs and pads causing gasses in-between the pad and disc. Hence why grooved, drilled discs are considered an upgrade as it gives the gasses somewhere to escape.

That is my understanding of it anyway!!

McSam

6,753 posts

190 months

Thursday 2nd June 2011
quotequote all
Nick3point2 said:
Nope, heating brake fluid will boil off any water and make it better. It's an old trick for improving existing brake fluid instead of changing it (in places like Cuba where automotive supplies are hugely restricted). Pour it in a pan, bring it to the boil, put back in car.
Yeah - but not while it's still in the system, surely, since the water has nowhere to boil to? confused

As said, you shouldn't be able to boil it, but do make sure it wasn't just very hot pads/discs. The above comparisons of pedal feel are good smile

snowdude2910

754 posts

179 months

Thursday 2nd June 2011
quotequote all
Ozzie Osmond said:
Vapour in the system, whether from "boiling" or otherwise, is the clearest possible indication of a fundamental problem with your brake system. At the very least you need a fluid change and I suggest a long, hard look at your car and the way you are using it. Could be a classic case of "I fitted harder pads and....."
I was under the impression all brake fluid absorbs water over time weather it be driven hard or not and that is why it should be replaced at time intervals as it isn't a consumable so otherwise you wouldn't have to change it

littleredrooster

5,920 posts

211 months

Friday 3rd June 2011
quotequote all
Just to summarise the above (and dispel the usual bks in a thread):

If the fluid has boiled it will let the pedal go to the floor and cannot be 'pumped back'. Brake fluid replacement is necessary and urgently required. I've never suffered this.

If brake fade has occurred, there will still be a 'pedal', but it will feel like pressing polished wood on to the tyres; no discernible retardation, but a fairly solid-feeling pedal. This is caused by the bonding agents in the pads (resins) overheating and releasing gasses which stop the proper pad-to-disc contact. No immediate cure except for different pads and/or drilled/grooved discs, or revision of driving style.

HTH