Is my new-engined 997 a keeper now?

Is my new-engined 997 a keeper now?

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997Heaven

Original Poster:

4 posts

124 months

Wednesday 12th March 2014
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I got a new cylinder block/liners/pistons under warranty on my 2005 997 Carrera shortly after becoming the fourth owner in 2011. I've cherished it since and always warmed it up before giving it the beans.

Should the engine last indefinitely if I continue with this mechanical respect?!

Cheers

Michael

schaeffs

332 posts

144 months

Wednesday 12th March 2014
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Sounds like you love the car - just get a Hartech maintenance plan and... Enjoy!

Ian_UK1

1,515 posts

196 months

Thursday 13th March 2014
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This is another unfortunate facet of Porsche's dismal failure to do anything to rectify the M96/7 engine issues. Even on the odd occasion where they do the decent thing and repair an engine under warranty, they repair it using exactly the same poorly-designed, flawed and vulnerable parts that are responsible for the engine's issues to start with. No meaningful updates, no attempt to address the issues, no engineering solutions. Just denial.

I hope the court case goes against them big time.

Edited by Ian_UK1 on Thursday 13th March 08:35

g7jhp

6,975 posts

240 months

Thursday 13th March 2014
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If you want 997 as a keeper a Gen 2 might be a safer bet.

ilduce

485 posts

129 months

Thursday 13th March 2014
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Ian_UK1 said:
I hope the court case goes against them big time.
I've heard that the case is about scored bores. Does it included exploded engines (D-chunk) too?

Ian_UK1

1,515 posts

196 months

Thursday 13th March 2014
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ilduce said:
I've heard that the case is about scored bores. Does it included exploded engines (D-chunk) too?
Honestly can't tell you - I only know what I've read on here TBH. I think it was Marcus ('The Goose') who brought it to people's attention, so maybe he'll have more info.

Gibbo205

3,563 posts

209 months

Thursday 13th March 2014
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ilduce said:
I've heard that the case is about scored bores. Does it included exploded engines (D-chunk) too?
I though the bores scoreing/deforming are what also cause the cracks and D-chunk too, it all stems down to the original issue of scoring or is that wrong?

Keeping my fingers crossed my engine will be fine, I purchased the car with 27,000 miles, had Mike at S&C inspect the engine, boroscope, he said one of the cleanest he'd seen. The car upto that point had being maintained as per Porsche guidelines by the first owner and the second owner an enthusiast also went with this but changed the oil yearly instead of every 2yr/20k miles and also supposedly filled with Vpower.

Upon getting the car I fitted 3rd radiator kit to improve cooling further, I had a good 10c reduction in peak oil temperatures. smile
I changed the oil every 6000 miles or every other track day whichever came first and religiously only ever filled with Vpower and stuck with Mobil 0-40W.

At about 50,000 miles I had Hartech low-temp stat fitted and another boroscope done by them to which they also commented and said not a single mark on it, spotless engine, keep doing what you are doing.

So fingers crossed things remain the same and as such I recommend:-
3rd Radiator kit, about £120 from Porsche and 2-3hr to fit.
Hartect low-temp stat, sub £200 fitted by Hartech.
Change the oil every 6000 miles with Mobil 0W-40
Fill only with Vpower
Don't rev beyond 3000rpm until oil is at 90c
Don't rev hard from a standstill or after being in traffic
Try not to use the engines torque from below 3000rpm, use the gears instead, I am a natural rev it hard kind of person once warmed up so I always change up at a minimum of around 4500rpm in usual driving, it means I typically drive everywhere in 2nd and 3rd, unless on a national speed limit road or motorway, hehe. biggrin

Trev450

6,358 posts

174 months

Friday 14th March 2014
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anonymous said:
[redacted]
Thanks for this. A clear and succinct description that clarifies, in my mind at least, the different causes of these issues.

ilduce

485 posts

129 months

Friday 14th March 2014
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anonymous said:
[redacted]
Mine was a 2007 Cayman S and it d-chunked.

997Heaven

Original Poster:

4 posts

124 months

Thursday 20th March 2014
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Thanksfor the sound advice here.

It all fits well with my current driving style.

Gibbo, could you elaborate on what you mean by from standstill? Ie how long would I need to have been sitting ?

Cheers

Gibbo205

3,563 posts

209 months

Thursday 20th March 2014
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997Heaven said:
Thanksfor the sound advice here.

It all fits well with my current driving style.

Gibbo, could you elaborate on what you mean by from standstill? Ie how long would I need to have been sitting ?

Cheers
Hartech's research suggest that if you've being sitting at traffic lights for a couple of minutes or more or in slow traffic it is advisable not too go and do a 0-60 hard standing start.

They also suggest to not try using the engines torque between 2000-3000rpm by changing up too early and instead to be changing up gears over 3000rpm.

Not sure if any truth, but my natural driving style is to rev an engine once warm so I tend to change up gear around 4500rpm even when not going for it, if I am having a fun drive I will rev the engine to the 6500-7500rpm region. This is just my style but also what Hartech seem to recommend and well all I can say is my engine is score free. smile