Porsche Assist for Centrelocks?

[jackliebling]

Dear All

My 997 GTS is in for the warranty inspection (£251 Wtf??!!) with a view to having a new 2 year policy.

They have mentioned the optional Porsche Assistance. Given that my car has the dreaded Centerlock wheels that are awkward to remove by most tyre places, is it advisable to go for Porsche Assistance? I currently get European cover with my bank account through Nationwide/ with LV. Or should a fresh policy with the AA or RAC be just as good?

I have to admit that the centerlocks do worry me with regard to long road trips. Would hate to get stuck in a foreign country with unfixable tyres!

Thanks for experience/advice.
Jack

[David W.]

It’s not that difficult. Torquing it up correctly is important though.
https://youtu.be/V84eNa24ynE

[TDT]

I got a slow puncture in my local city centre when had my 997 GTS. Called Porsche Assist.… can remember if it was AA or RAC but they didn’t want to touch it because iitnwas centerlocks.
He offered to pump me up to allow me to get home and then came back to my house the next morning to ensure that I could get down to my OPC. Had I been further afield maybe they’d have just flatbedded the car to the nearest OPC.

Such a PITA.… as most people don’t want to touch them and to be honest I didn’t want people that were very verse with the procedure to touch them either. I say get comfortable yourself with the procedure and that may help. If you get stuck out you have the tool in the car and just need to rescue service for the breaker bar.

Edited by TDT on Monday 7th January 21:13

[red997]

I wouldn't be too worried about centrelocks - unless you have PCCB
then I wouldn't let anyone who doesn't see them on a daily basis swap out a wheel.

Did the tool come with the 997 (it does on the 991) ?
If you are that paranoid, just carry a jack, a multiplying torque wrench & breaker bar in case of emergencies (!), or use the tyre goo.
Have a go yourself first in a controlled (i.e. garage) environment

[TDT]

red997 said:

Did the tool come with the 997 (it does on the 991) ?

The socket tool did. Yep.
But you had to add your own multiplier torque wrench and/or breaker bar.

[Geoff39GL]

red997 said:

I wouldn't be too worried about centrelocks - unless you have PCCB
then I wouldn't let anyone who doesn't see them on a daily basis swap out a wheel.

Did the tool come with the 997 (it does on the 991) ?
If you are that paranoid, just carry a jack, a multiplying torque wrench & breaker bar in case of emergencies (!), or use the tyre goo.
Have a go yourself first in a controlled (i.e. garage) environment

I had centre locks on a 997 Turbo S and had a puncture in France, Porsche Assist sent out a flatbed and if I had not got 2 other friends in Porsches with me it would have been a major problem. To get onto the flat bed we had to use numerous bits of timber under the wheels to stop the rear of the car from grounding and I drove on to the flatbed because the truck driver was not to be trusted. I insisted the car then went to a French OPC. Without help I'm sure there would have been damage and who would have paid for that ?.
Guess that could have happened whatever the wheels if recovered however standard wheels can be sorted by any good tyre company.

Why Porsche fit centre locks to road cars I just don't understand.
If you buy another GTS try and find one with stud wheels there are not many or if buying new spec them.

[SHIFTY]

Agree with previous comment my GTS has studs but when I completed the final spec with the OPC was told a number of times it would effect resale value, I think the OPC was more concerned about shifting a non centre lock GTS car.

I like to look after the car myself and its so much easier to just jack it up, undo 5 nuts and take the wheel off and of course so much simpler if you have a puncture out on the open road as most tyre dealers will sort..

[CamL]

I wouldn't get Porsche assist solely because of a centre-lock worry. I had a puncture on a road trip to Switzerland subsequent to my Porsche Assist expiring and I just foamed it and re-inflated using the kit in the car. The second tyre shop I tried had the tools and were not phased at all.

The 'mystery' surrounding centre-locks is easily dispelled by getting the tools and doing it yourself at home. I can honestly say it takes me no longer to swap from winter wheel set to summer wheel set than it would on a 5 stud car. This allows you to understand the degree of delicacy required so as not to damage the carbon ceramics, and understand the spring/safety lock mechanism first hand. You can then ensure a garage does it correctly.

I invested in a pair of JackPoint stands from the US, and a 1000nm Norbar torque wrench, a 1 metre breaker bar, and a 2m length of basic scaffold tube from Ebay, and then a Rennline removal tool and grease from 911UK.

I carry the Rennline tool so that the tyre depot can use it if I get a puncture on the road, a pricey little bit of plastic but it does the job.

[Chubbyross]

CamL said:

I wouldn't get Porsche assist solely because of a centre-lock worry. I had a puncture on a road trip to Switzerland subsequent to my Porsche Assist expiring and I just foamed it and re-inflated using the kit in the car. The second tyre shop I tried had the tools and were not phased at all.

The 'mystery' surrounding centre-locks is easily dispelled by getting the tools and doing it yourself at home. I can honestly say it takes me no longer to swap from winter wheel set to summer wheel set than it would on a 5 stud car. This allows you to understand the degree of delicacy required so as not to damage the carbon ceramics, and understand the spring/safety lock mechanism first hand. You can then ensure a garage does it correctly.

I invested in a pair of JackPoint stands from the US, and a 1000nm Norbar torque wrench, a 1 metre breaker bar, and a 2m length of basic scaffold tube from Ebay, and then a Rennline removal tool and grease from 911UK.

I carry the Rennline tool so that the tyre depot can use it if I get a puncture on the road, a pricey little bit of plastic but it does the job.

How do you find the Norbar torque wrench? I’m thinking of getting all the necessary tools to do the job myself but was put off by the huge prices of some of the other wrenches. This one seems well priced. You’re spot on when you say the best way to dispel the fear is by having a go yourself. When you say the rennline tool do you mean the CL socket?

[Digga]

TBF, regarding having to carry a torque wrench, when has anyone been able to remove a 5-stud wheel (that was fitted by a garage or tyre centre fitter with an airgun) using the small wrench provided?

Only the other weekend a mate came around with his Golf GTD because he'd had a flat nearby and could not get the wheel of. In the end, using my torque wrench and going up in increments - just for interest to see how unfkingbelievably tight the studs had been fitted - I reckon all five studs were at something between 120 to 140 NM.

[TDT]

Think he means this…

http://www.rennline.com/Centerlock-Wheel-Alignment...

It’s a guide to help get the wheel on and off without whacking your brake disc or callipers.
Also makes the job easier as the wheel is held in place by this rather than trying to hold it up with your feet or having a second person around to help.

[Chubbyross]

TDT said:

Think he means this…

http://www.rennline.com/Centerlock-Wheel-Alignment...

It’s a guide to help get the wheel on and off without whacking your brake disc or callipers.
Also makes the job easier as the wheel is held in place by this rather than trying to hold it up with your feet or having a second person around to help.

Thanks for confirming. Yes, one of those was on my shopping list. They seem to be a must for those with carbon ceramic brakes, but useful for those without like me.

[CamL]

Chubbyross said:

TDT said:

Think he means this…

http://www.rennline.com/Centerlock-Wheel-Alignment...

It’s a guide to help get the wheel on and off without whacking your brake disc or callipers.
Also makes the job easier as the wheel is held in place by this rather than trying to hold it up with your feet or having a second person around to help.

Thanks for confirming. Yes, one of those was on my shopping list. They seem to be a must for those with carbon ceramic brakes, but useful for those without like me.

Yes, that's it. I find the Norbar wrench fine, quite an impressive bit of kit actually!. I wanted to get one that went well over the 600nm so that it wasn't operating at the limit of it's capacity

[Sheepshanks]

Digga said:

TBF, regarding having to carry a torque wrench, when has anyone been able to remove a 5-stud wheel (that was fitted by a garage or tyre centre fitter with an airgun) using the small wrench provided?

Only the other weekend a mate came around with his Golf GTD because he'd had a flat nearby and could not get the wheel of. In the end, using my torque wrench and going up in increments - just for interest to see how unfkingbelievably tight the studs had been fitted - I reckon all five studs were at something between 120 to 140 NM.

120 or 140Nm is right, depending on model. I'm a weakling can undo either with a standard spider brace.

[Digga]

Sheepshanks said:

Digga said:

TBF, regarding having to carry a torque wrench, when has anyone been able to remove a 5-stud wheel (that was fitted by a garage or tyre centre fitter with an airgun) using the small wrench provided?

Only the other weekend a mate came around with his Golf GTD because he'd had a flat nearby and could not get the wheel of. In the end, using my torque wrench and going up in increments - just for interest to see how unfkingbelievably tight the studs had been fitted - I reckon all five studs were at something between 120 to 140 NM.

120 or 140Nm is right, depending on model. I'm a weakling can undo either with a standard spider brace.

My memory is perhaps faulty! If the correct[i] torque was, say, 120 (we did check the owner's manual) then the [i]actual torque installed was around 20 to 40 Nm over.

[Chubbyross]

CamL said:

Chubbyross said:

TDT said:

Think he means this…

http://www.rennline.com/Centerlock-Wheel-Alignment...

It’s a guide to help get the wheel on and off without whacking your brake disc or callipers.
Also makes the job easier as the wheel is held in place by this rather than trying to hold it up with your feet or having a second person around to help.

Thanks for confirming. Yes, one of those was on my shopping list. They seem to be a must for those with carbon ceramic brakes, but useful for those without like me.

Yes, that's it. I find the Norbar wrench fine, quite an impressive bit of kit actually!. I wanted to get one that went well over the 600nm so that it wasn't operating at the limit of it's capacity

What make of breaker bar do you have? I’ve had problems in the past with them and would like to get one up to the task.

[CamL]

Chubbyross said:

What make of breaker bar do you have? I’ve had problems in the past with them and would like to get one up to the task.

I got a Sealy one for about £65 (1000mm 3/4" Sq Drive AK7312) and a 4" extension to keep it well clear of the bodywork (Teng M340020 40972 100mm 4-inch Extension Bar Drive)

I also forget to mention a hack to depress the brake pedal if you are working on your own, I used an Irwin Quick Grip Quick Change Medium Duty 900mm 36 Inch Bar Clamp

All tried and tested!

[c4sman]

CamL said:

I wouldn't get Porsche assist solely because of a centre-lock worry. I had a puncture on a road trip to Switzerland subsequent to my Porsche Assist expiring and I just foamed it and re-inflated using the kit in the car. The second tyre shop I tried had the tools and were not phased at all.

The 'mystery' surrounding centre-locks is easily dispelled by getting the tools and doing it yourself at home. I can honestly say it takes me no longer to swap from winter wheel set to summer wheel set than it would on a 5 stud car. This allows you to understand the degree of delicacy required so as not to damage the carbon ceramics, and understand the spring/safety lock mechanism first hand. You can then ensure a garage does it correctly.

I invested in a pair of JackPoint stands from the US, and a 1000nm Norbar torque wrench, a 1 metre breaker bar, and a 2m length of basic scaffold tube from Ebay, and then a Rennline removal tool and grease from 911UK.

I carry the Rennline tool so that the tyre depot can use it if I get a puncture on the road, a pricey little bit of plastic but it does the job.

This
Once you've done it yourself it demystifies the process. Norbar1000 is a great bit of kit and I have Sealy breaker also. If caught out, get towed to a HGV repair shop as they are guaranteed to have a breaker bar up to the job which is all you need for emergency removal and replacement using the Porsche emergency guidelines (I.e if you don't have grease and torque wrench).

[Chubbyross]

CamL said:

Chubbyross said:

What make of breaker bar do you have? I’ve had problems in the past with them and would like to get one up to the task.

I got a Sealy one for about £65 (1000mm 3/4" Sq Drive AK7312) and a 4" extension to keep it well clear of the bodywork (Teng M340020 40972 100mm 4-inch Extension Bar Drive)

I also forget to mention a hack to depress the brake pedal if you are working on your own, I used an Irwin Quick Grip Quick Change Medium Duty 900mm 36 Inch Bar Clamp

All tried and tested!

Thanks so much for the information. All I need now is the weather to warm up a bit!

[short-shift]

Selection of instruments of torture:



But you only need to carry a few in the car:



And you can pop them in a tool roll and make a neat job of storing them away:



James