I bought an even older banger
Discussion
I recently bought this
(click for the relevant thread of anticipated woe).
Which should be enough trouble for anyone. Sadly, though, I clearly need more trouble in my life, so I've just bought this too:
It's a 1964 356SC with an interesting and varied history. It's apparently got a 120bhp race engine, based on a 912 block:
It has at one time been an HSCC race car (and was silver). It was then converted back to road trim and turned blue (presumably holding its breath in indignation). The interior is still a little sporty, with period race seats and traces of the roll-cage installation, but otherwise road-ready.
It has a fat history file, which is probably a good thing. It runs (quite well, I think). It looks fabulous, in my opinion. Obviously, since I own it, it doesn't actually work, as such, but that will hopefully be fixed soon-ish. At the moment it has no working rear lights of any kind, no indicators and almost, but not quite, no working gauges. There will, therefore, be some interesting invoices from the automotive electrician to follow, I expect.
Occasional updates will follow here, at least until either this one or the other one bankrupts me.
(click for the relevant thread of anticipated woe).
Which should be enough trouble for anyone. Sadly, though, I clearly need more trouble in my life, so I've just bought this too:
It's a 1964 356SC with an interesting and varied history. It's apparently got a 120bhp race engine, based on a 912 block:
It has at one time been an HSCC race car (and was silver). It was then converted back to road trim and turned blue (presumably holding its breath in indignation). The interior is still a little sporty, with period race seats and traces of the roll-cage installation, but otherwise road-ready.
It has a fat history file, which is probably a good thing. It runs (quite well, I think). It looks fabulous, in my opinion. Obviously, since I own it, it doesn't actually work, as such, but that will hopefully be fixed soon-ish. At the moment it has no working rear lights of any kind, no indicators and almost, but not quite, no working gauges. There will, therefore, be some interesting invoices from the automotive electrician to follow, I expect.
Occasional updates will follow here, at least until either this one or the other one bankrupts me.
Yes, it was. Here's what the list says:
It's an Andy Prill build:
1968 912 crankcase
912 crankshaft, magnaflux, undersized by 0.25mm and balanced
356 12v 180mm flywheel, machined for 200mm clutch, balanced
912 conrods, magnaflux, rebushed and resized, balanced
Norris 337S 290 degree camshaft
Shasta 83.5mm pistons spaced for 10.25:1 (for 98 octane)
912 cylinder heads, new guides, Norris springs on alu retainers on exhausts. New Porsche springs on inlets.
Norris CrMo pushrods
2 x Solex 40P11-4 carbs, 34mm chokes, jetted to 145
K&N filters with Weber velocity stacks
Bursch 15/8" racing exhaust
Full flow oil system with Fram HP1 oil filter mounted inside rear wing
5" racing light weight pulley
Suggested rev limit is 6800 (safe to 7k, apparently).
Of course, that assumes that this engine is still in the car. I haven't verified it yet, and don't have an engine number (or haven't found one) to go on. The build was in 2000, so I don't know if Prill will still have any records. I know the car was sold a few years later with its original motor and wheels alongside the race engine and the Fuchs. Frankly, if the race engine is still in it, great, but if the original engine is in it, then it's a matching numbers car, which would also be great. I'd like to track the original motor down, if I can, although if it was separated from the car I assume its in the back of someone else's 356 by now.
It's an Andy Prill build:
1968 912 crankcase
912 crankshaft, magnaflux, undersized by 0.25mm and balanced
356 12v 180mm flywheel, machined for 200mm clutch, balanced
912 conrods, magnaflux, rebushed and resized, balanced
Norris 337S 290 degree camshaft
Shasta 83.5mm pistons spaced for 10.25:1 (for 98 octane)
912 cylinder heads, new guides, Norris springs on alu retainers on exhausts. New Porsche springs on inlets.
Norris CrMo pushrods
2 x Solex 40P11-4 carbs, 34mm chokes, jetted to 145
K&N filters with Weber velocity stacks
Bursch 15/8" racing exhaust
Full flow oil system with Fram HP1 oil filter mounted inside rear wing
5" racing light weight pulley
Suggested rev limit is 6800 (safe to 7k, apparently).
Of course, that assumes that this engine is still in the car. I haven't verified it yet, and don't have an engine number (or haven't found one) to go on. The build was in 2000, so I don't know if Prill will still have any records. I know the car was sold a few years later with its original motor and wheels alongside the race engine and the Fuchs. Frankly, if the race engine is still in it, great, but if the original engine is in it, then it's a matching numbers car, which would also be great. I'd like to track the original motor down, if I can, although if it was separated from the car I assume its in the back of someone else's 356 by now.
Engine numbers on 356s and their derivatives are a little odd because the engine number only exists on the timing cover or third piece, and you will find it stamped just above the crankshaft pulley.
There are other numbers on the crank cases. Look behind the generator piece at the join between the main crank case halves, where the bolt goes through that holds the two sides together. On the left side is the casting number, and on the right side you will find the model number. On a 912 you will expect to find 6/36. If the engine belongs to an SC, then you will find 6/16, and if it is from a C, then you will find 6/15.
On the top face of the third piece, there will also be a casting number, normally 3 digits. Behind the fan housing, look with a torch, and there is another set of stamped numbers on the joint between the crank case halves, which should match the 3 digit number on the third piece.
You have Knecht mesh air filters on your car, and they might contain K&N elements, but normally they will just be the steel mesh in the cans.
Could you post a picture of your rev counter? That will show if you have a C or an SC. The redline on the SC electric rev counter should be a 6,000 rpm.
There are other numbers on the crank cases. Look behind the generator piece at the join between the main crank case halves, where the bolt goes through that holds the two sides together. On the left side is the casting number, and on the right side you will find the model number. On a 912 you will expect to find 6/36. If the engine belongs to an SC, then you will find 6/16, and if it is from a C, then you will find 6/15.
On the top face of the third piece, there will also be a casting number, normally 3 digits. Behind the fan housing, look with a torch, and there is another set of stamped numbers on the joint between the crank case halves, which should match the 3 digit number on the third piece.
You have Knecht mesh air filters on your car, and they might contain K&N elements, but normally they will just be the steel mesh in the cans.
Could you post a picture of your rev counter? That will show if you have a C or an SC. The redline on the SC electric rev counter should be a 6,000 rpm.
Chewykneeslider said:
Engine numbers on 356s and their derivatives are a little odd because the engine number only exists on the timing cover or third piece, and you will find it stamped just above the crankshaft pulley.
There are other numbers on the crank cases. Look behind the generator piece at the join between the main crank case halves, where the bolt goes through that holds the two sides together. On the left side is the casting number, and on the right side you will find the model number. On a 912 you will expect to find 6/36. If the engine belongs to an SC, then you will find 6/16, and if it is from a C, then you will find 6/15.
On the top face of the third piece, there will also be a casting number, normally 3 digits. Behind the fan housing, look with a torch, and there is another set of stamped numbers on the joint between the crank case halves, which should match the 3 digit number on the third piece.
You have Knecht mesh air filters on your car, and they might contain K&N elements, but normally they will just be the steel mesh in the cans.
Could you post a picture of your rev counter? That will show if you have a C or an SC. The redline on the SC electric rev counter should be a 6,000 rpm.
The car is definitely (or was, definitely) originally an SC. I'll have a look for the model number next time I'm near the car. The engine number is 753762, which isn't the engine number listed elsewhere in the supporting paperwork. I have been in touch with Prill, who built the race engine and have worked on the car quite recently. It's possible that someone at some point since swapped a standard SC motor back in - we'll see. That would be dull if it's neither the race motor nor the correct matching numbers motor. The plot will doubtless continue to thicken.There are other numbers on the crank cases. Look behind the generator piece at the join between the main crank case halves, where the bolt goes through that holds the two sides together. On the left side is the casting number, and on the right side you will find the model number. On a 912 you will expect to find 6/36. If the engine belongs to an SC, then you will find 6/16, and if it is from a C, then you will find 6/15.
On the top face of the third piece, there will also be a casting number, normally 3 digits. Behind the fan housing, look with a torch, and there is another set of stamped numbers on the joint between the crank case halves, which should match the 3 digit number on the third piece.
You have Knecht mesh air filters on your car, and they might contain K&N elements, but normally they will just be the steel mesh in the cans.
Could you post a picture of your rev counter? That will show if you have a C or an SC. The redline on the SC electric rev counter should be a 6,000 rpm.
OK,
A stock SC motor should begin with an 8. It looks at least like you have the third piece from a 912.
I had an issue with buying an SC, with a non numbers matching engine from the states a number of years ago, and I didn't find out that it wasn't an SC till I got the Certificate of Authenticity from Porsche UK.
However my C has a better than SC engine, and the only tell tale is the C rev counter, so I am not too bothered.
My engine has BT5 case halves, an SC third piece, with the bigger oil pump, and Super 75 heads reworked for Solex 40 manifolds and carbs, a proper SC cam, and a 1720 kit, so it makes just a shade over 100hp.
The electrical woes you have are all easily fixable, especially the indicators and lights. Some of the gauge issues might be a little more tricky. Is it still on 6v?
Learn how to make all the contacts shiny with some vinegar and bicarb, and work through all the connectors on the car, better still, solder up all the terminals properly rather than rely on 50+ year old crimps. It will be sorted in no time.
A stock SC motor should begin with an 8. It looks at least like you have the third piece from a 912.
I had an issue with buying an SC, with a non numbers matching engine from the states a number of years ago, and I didn't find out that it wasn't an SC till I got the Certificate of Authenticity from Porsche UK.
However my C has a better than SC engine, and the only tell tale is the C rev counter, so I am not too bothered.
My engine has BT5 case halves, an SC third piece, with the bigger oil pump, and Super 75 heads reworked for Solex 40 manifolds and carbs, a proper SC cam, and a 1720 kit, so it makes just a shade over 100hp.
The electrical woes you have are all easily fixable, especially the indicators and lights. Some of the gauge issues might be a little more tricky. Is it still on 6v?
Learn how to make all the contacts shiny with some vinegar and bicarb, and work through all the connectors on the car, better still, solder up all the terminals properly rather than rely on 50+ year old crimps. It will be sorted in no time.
Edited by Chewykneeslider on Tuesday 21st May 14:50
Thanks, that's potentially reassuring. It's quite possible that it is the race engine, but that the air filters have been changed for something more period-look (or, as you say, that they have K&N internals).
I'm going to swing by the car on the way home and have another look for model numbers. As for the electrics, I have an automotive electrician going through the car from stem to stern. Given how often it's been cut about I've told him to rewire it if he has to. I know it's had recurrent faults of this kind (from the history file) so I suspect there's more to it than some tarnished contacts.
I'm going to swing by the car on the way home and have another look for model numbers. As for the electrics, I have an automotive electrician going through the car from stem to stern. Given how often it's been cut about I've told him to rewire it if he has to. I know it's had recurrent faults of this kind (from the history file) so I suspect there's more to it than some tarnished contacts.
Some mysteries solved. It's definitely the 912 motor - I found the (somewhat eroded) 616/36 type number.
Looks like the motor didn't quite make the claimed 120bhp, either. There's a rolling-road test in the file from 2001 (when the engine was fresh, and the K&N's were still there - see below - and so on) which gives 110bhp "normal" / 106.5bhp "engine", and 88 lb/ft of torque. Hilariously, there's also a plot from the original SC motor before all the money in the world was spent on the race engine, and that had 90bhp at the flywheel then (allegedly, it's a very odd "performance test" chart, and "90hp flywheel" is written on it in pencil). So conceivably the gain from all that exotic engineering was 16.5 whole bhp. Woo.
I've also been through the history file with a fine-tooth comb. The car's history is interesting:
Imported '92 by Roger Bray. Used as a road car until '99.
Then acquired by a new owner for HSCC racing. From 2000 to 2005 enormous amounts of money and effort go into race prep - engine, cage, brakes, suspension, wheels, 12v conversion, plexi windows, race interior, heater removal etc. Then in '06 the same owner looks like he's thinking of returning it to the road, putting sports seats back in rather than race buckets and doing a load of service work. Then the car is laid up until 2010.
It's sold at the Historics auction in 2012 to a new owner, who starts to return it to full road trim. This spirals into most of a complete restoration. It's still got the race motor, but the race fuel tank, cage and so on come out, most of a road interior (no rear seats) goes in, there's all the work needed to reinstate the heating system and all sorts of other road-use parts and there's endless body restoration work. The initial restoration takes at least two years, and then there are repeated bills for ongoing rectification work - worryingly it's already had a new loom but seems to still have electrical gremlins. Still, it looks like this owner is getting 2000 miles a year or so out of it. The mystery of the missing K&N filters is cleared up by a 2016 Eporsch invoice for replacing them with the stock Porsche part (616.108.203.01) - apparently the K&Ns had melted.
Then (somewhat inexplicably) the same owner spends a small fortune on a colour-change respray, with yet more rust remediation, in December 2018. There's no mention of crash damage anywhere, and the car appears straight underneath, so until I'm proven wrong I'm going to assume this was some kind of final folie d'amour before it was once more consigned to Historics for auction not long after.
I can't work out when (or why) the oil catch-tank that was part of the original race build was removed, but the remote filter in the wheelarch is still present and correct. Once I have it running enough to drive around, I think I'll take it on a tour of the various firms that did the major work and see what gaps they can fill in. I'm also going to write to the previous owners (assuming they've not moved) to see if they'll spare me the time for a chat.
Looks like the motor didn't quite make the claimed 120bhp, either. There's a rolling-road test in the file from 2001 (when the engine was fresh, and the K&N's were still there - see below - and so on) which gives 110bhp "normal" / 106.5bhp "engine", and 88 lb/ft of torque. Hilariously, there's also a plot from the original SC motor before all the money in the world was spent on the race engine, and that had 90bhp at the flywheel then (allegedly, it's a very odd "performance test" chart, and "90hp flywheel" is written on it in pencil). So conceivably the gain from all that exotic engineering was 16.5 whole bhp. Woo.
I've also been through the history file with a fine-tooth comb. The car's history is interesting:
Imported '92 by Roger Bray. Used as a road car until '99.
Then acquired by a new owner for HSCC racing. From 2000 to 2005 enormous amounts of money and effort go into race prep - engine, cage, brakes, suspension, wheels, 12v conversion, plexi windows, race interior, heater removal etc. Then in '06 the same owner looks like he's thinking of returning it to the road, putting sports seats back in rather than race buckets and doing a load of service work. Then the car is laid up until 2010.
It's sold at the Historics auction in 2012 to a new owner, who starts to return it to full road trim. This spirals into most of a complete restoration. It's still got the race motor, but the race fuel tank, cage and so on come out, most of a road interior (no rear seats) goes in, there's all the work needed to reinstate the heating system and all sorts of other road-use parts and there's endless body restoration work. The initial restoration takes at least two years, and then there are repeated bills for ongoing rectification work - worryingly it's already had a new loom but seems to still have electrical gremlins. Still, it looks like this owner is getting 2000 miles a year or so out of it. The mystery of the missing K&N filters is cleared up by a 2016 Eporsch invoice for replacing them with the stock Porsche part (616.108.203.01) - apparently the K&Ns had melted.
Then (somewhat inexplicably) the same owner spends a small fortune on a colour-change respray, with yet more rust remediation, in December 2018. There's no mention of crash damage anywhere, and the car appears straight underneath, so until I'm proven wrong I'm going to assume this was some kind of final folie d'amour before it was once more consigned to Historics for auction not long after.
I can't work out when (or why) the oil catch-tank that was part of the original race build was removed, but the remote filter in the wheelarch is still present and correct. Once I have it running enough to drive around, I think I'll take it on a tour of the various firms that did the major work and see what gaps they can fill in. I'm also going to write to the previous owners (assuming they've not moved) to see if they'll spare me the time for a chat.
Adam B said:
Bookmarked - love these sorts of threads
So you bought the car on the phone not knowing what engine was still in it?
Those Fuchs don't half look odd on a 356
No, it's worse than that. I bought it in person at auction without even knowing if it ran, never mind what engine was in it. I did have some comfort from the engine being in the particulars, so if it had turned out to have something entirely different in the back, I'd have had some comeback against the auctioneers. For whatever that might have been worth.So you bought the car on the phone not knowing what engine was still in it?
Those Fuchs don't half look odd on a 356
I like the Fuchs. The tyres are wrong, though: 195/60 when they should be 185/70, I think - so the car is undergeared; in any case if the history file is to be believed the tyres are 20 years old. Eeek. I think the gearbox may also have had closer, shorter ratios fitted, which will further limit audibly-bearable cruising speed - to be determined when the thing is actually driveable. The suspension's been lowered, obviously, so I'll need to watch out for whether the higher-profile tyres rub at full compression.
The plan is for the car to be a "reversible" outlaw. I'll be adding stone grilles to the headlamps and a luggage rack, and I might remove the bumpers. At the same time I'm going to accumulate the parts to do a concours restoration, including proper steel wheels and hubcaps, correct front and rear seats, the proper through-overrider exhaust system and so on.
If I keep the bumpers, I might fit the proper exhausts anyway; I'm not sure I like the look of the current system:
964Cup said:
No, it's worse than that. I bought it in person at auction without even knowing if it ran, never mind what engine was in it. I did have some comfort from the engine being in the particulars, so if it had turned out to have something entirely different in the back, I'd have had some comeback against the auctioneers. For whatever that might have been worth.
Ha - fair playYou may not want to reveal what you paid so I won't ask, but on the scrap v mystery car v non-restored car v good nick matching spectrum - where was this one?
Adam B said:
Ha - fair play
You may not want to reveal what you paid so I won't ask, but on the scrap v mystery car v non-restored car v good nick matching spectrum - where was this one?
Since it was an auction, what I paid is public knowledge - £57,120 including buyer's premium. As an aside, I'm not sure why I keep redacting the plate since it's not redacted on the auctioneer's website. I think that's about £10k less than a decent retail example, and perhaps £40k less than a really good matching-numbers one. As with the Porsche market in general, there's a lot of variability and a fair gap between asking prices and transaction prices, so valuation is hard to do. I attributed some value to the history file, which has something not far less than £80k spent on the car since 2000.You may not want to reveal what you paid so I won't ask, but on the scrap v mystery car v non-restored car v good nick matching spectrum - where was this one?
I think the closest open-market match to my car is this one: https://www.classic-trader.com/uk/cars/listing/por... up at £85k. Presumably a similar engine build (same claimed output) - it's obviously not a 4-cam because a genuine 4-cam motor alone would be worth twice what they're asking for the car. Theirs has a more complete interior, but no bumpers, and it's a B, not a C, which suggests it should have drums but obviously has discs given the wheels.
Cheapest running 356 I can find right now is this one: https://www.classic-trader.com/uk/cars/listing/por... at £52.5k which is plainly fairly ratty and has the wrong bumpers and front seats amongst other things. There's a resto-wreck 356B in Germany for £36k, which looks to have easily £30k needed to get it halfway decent.
So I think I did OK, all things considered. I may change this opinion when the mechanics have been over the car and have told me what's actually wrong with it...
Cheapest running 356 I can find right now is this one: https://www.classic-trader.com/uk/cars/listing/por... at £52.5k which is plainly fairly ratty and has the wrong bumpers and front seats amongst other things. There's a resto-wreck 356B in Germany for £36k, which looks to have easily £30k needed to get it halfway decent.
So I think I did OK, all things considered. I may change this opinion when the mechanics have been over the car and have told me what's actually wrong with it...
964Cup said:
it's obviously not a 4-cam because a genuine 4-cam motor alone would be worth twice what they're asking for the car.
Astonishing the value of them now, given back in the day these astonishingly complicated little beasts were often removed from 356's and left abandoned in workshops all over the place due to problems with their complexity and workings.I've seen it said, that a Porsche factory tech could build 2 x 917 race engines in the same time it took a tech to build a 4-cam Carrera engine!!
Its interesting that the quoted HP was 120, but the reality was somewhat less. It starts to get tricky to get more than about 110hp out of these engines without major work to the combustion chambers.
The short gearing might just be standard, because with mine, 80mph in top gear is 4,000rpm, which makes things a bit buzzy on the motorway. I run 185/70/15 Sprint Classics which look nicely period on 5.5in later 911 steel wheels.
In the boot you should be able to find that VIN plate just in front of the fuel tank on the crossmember, and it should show the VIN, which should match the VIN stamped into the crossmember. There is also a field for model name, which on mine says 356C but might well show 356SC on yours. I'd be intrigued to know.
Did you get a look at the rev counter?
You are probably going to find that a proper period correct set of seats are properly expensive, and the same goes for a lot of the trim. I quite like the look of the stock bumpers, but with the over riders taken off, and the holes in the bumpers welded up, it gives a nice cleaner look.
If you haven't already, get over to the DDK forums and say Hi there. The 356 Talk forums site is also great for info, which includes lots of tech articles.
The short gearing might just be standard, because with mine, 80mph in top gear is 4,000rpm, which makes things a bit buzzy on the motorway. I run 185/70/15 Sprint Classics which look nicely period on 5.5in later 911 steel wheels.
In the boot you should be able to find that VIN plate just in front of the fuel tank on the crossmember, and it should show the VIN, which should match the VIN stamped into the crossmember. There is also a field for model name, which on mine says 356C but might well show 356SC on yours. I'd be intrigued to know.
Did you get a look at the rev counter?
You are probably going to find that a proper period correct set of seats are properly expensive, and the same goes for a lot of the trim. I quite like the look of the stock bumpers, but with the over riders taken off, and the holes in the bumpers welded up, it gives a nice cleaner look.
If you haven't already, get over to the DDK forums and say Hi there. The 356 Talk forums site is also great for info, which includes lots of tech articles.
aeropilot said:
Astonishing the value of them now, given back in the day these astonishingly complicated little beasts were often removed from 356's and left abandoned in workshops all over the place due to problems with their complexity and workings.
I've seen it said, that a Porsche factory tech could build 2 x 917 race engines in the same time it took a tech to build a 4-cam Carrera engine!!
365 Carreras go with the later 911 2.7RS as "most overpriced" Porsches, in my book. Half-a-million pounds? At least the Carrera was a fairly special thing, even though, as you say, the engine was much more hope than expectation in terms of actual usability. The 2.7 RS seems to have weirdly mythical status, with even replicas (or "evocations") now commanding £100k, apparently. No idea why - neither the motor nor the box are at all rare, and they made nearly 1,600 of the things. With the level of tinworm endemic in 70s cars, I bet half of them don't have their original lightened panels any more.I've seen it said, that a Porsche factory tech could build 2 x 917 race engines in the same time it took a tech to build a 4-cam Carrera engine!!
There is something very odd going on with Porsches - 993RS and 3.6 Turbos at £250k, 70s 911s at £150k, and so on. These are mass-produced cars, and many of them really aren't either all that rare or all that special. Some of them are pretty rare in RHD, granted, but overall they made nearly as many RS as they made C4 Cabs (just over 1,000 RS vs about 1,300 cabs).
The 993 RS motor is different, of course, but neither all that special - I had one and it went well but never troubled its supposed 300bhp - nor all that hard to replicate on a 3.6 base. The handling and driving experience of the RS was very special (mine was a Touring, so more usable than a Clubsport) but again you can reproduce that in a C2 without that much expense. I wonder how many RSes still have the factory thinner glass and so on, come to that.
The 964 3.6 Turbo - I had one of those too - was hard to get running properly and they made half as many (1,500 or so) of those as they made regular 3.3s. Of course I sold my RS and my 3.6 long before the values took off, so I'm doubtless partly expressing sour grapes.
And, as it happens, I'm actually thinking of buying a 2.7RS "evocation". How's that for cognitive dissonance?
Chewykneeslider said:
Its interesting that the quoted HP was 120, but the reality was somewhat less. It starts to get tricky to get more than about 110hp out of these engines without major work to the combustion chambers.
I'm going to take it to a rolling road when/if it's running properly. Assuming it's about 900kg, 110hp will do quite nicely.Chewykneeslider said:
The short gearing might just be standard, because with mine, 80mph in top gear is 4,000rpm, which makes things a bit buzzy on the motorway. I run 185/70/15 Sprint Classics which look nicely period on 5.5in later 911 steel wheels.
I've not driven it yet, so I don't know what the actual gearing is. There's a request from the racing owner in the history file to fit BBAB gears, but I don't know if it happened. I think I'll switch to 195/65 tyres after doing some more digging - gets me very close to the nominal size but should work better with the 6Js.Chewykneeslider said:
In the boot you should be able to find that VIN plate just in front of the fuel tank on the crossmember, and it should show the VIN, which should match the VIN stamped into the crossmember. There is also a field for model name, which on mine says 356C but might well show 356SC on yours. I'd be intrigued to know.
Did you get a look at the rev counter?
I'll have a look for both of these next time I'm with the car.Did you get a look at the rev counter?
Chewykneeslider said:
You are probably going to find that a proper period correct set of seats are properly expensive, and the same goes for a lot of the trim.
I'm sure you're right. Patience will have to be my watchword. However, if concours non-matching cars continue climbing towards £100k, I do have some budget.Chewykneeslider said:
I quite like the look of the stock bumpers, but with the over riders taken off, and the holes in the bumpers welded up, it gives a nice cleaner look.
I think that works on pre-A/A cars, but prefer the overriders on later cars if you're not going for the no-bumper outlaw look. Chewykneeslider said:
If you haven't already, get over to the DDK forums and say Hi there. The 356 Talk forums site is also great for info, which includes lots of tech articles.
Lurking there at the moment and on the 356 Registry (at least while I wait for Eric to correct the existing entry for my VIN). Have said hello on the PCGB 356 forum.964Cup said:
911 2.7RS as "most overpriced" Porsches, in my book.... with even replicas (or "evocations") now commanding £100k, apparently.
No idea why - neither the motor nor the box are at all rare....
And, as it happens, I'm actually thinking of buying a 2.7RS "evocation". How's that for cognitive dissonance?
brilliant sir No idea why - neither the motor nor the box are at all rare....
And, as it happens, I'm actually thinking of buying a 2.7RS "evocation". How's that for cognitive dissonance?
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