I'll AX this only once... though there is an Echo in here
Discussion
The book of lies is pretty good in the guidance, although it's not a complicated process....thr best thing you can do with the aftermarket kit though (in hindsight) is ignore a lot of it, especially the very detailed instructions about the length of cable and sheath you'll need...
As I couldn't make sense of the instructions, I deconstructed the existing arrangement, left most of it in situ, and ended up only using the new cable, screw in place cable end, and outer sheathing.
This is a decision I wish I'd made a lot sooner rather than trying to work out how to build a replica then install it....especially when the stated length of cable required was wrong.
I was left with a lot of spare so ended up cutting it to length in situ:
Again, with the wonders of hindsight, the only thing you really need is some thick gauge stainless wire, the connection with the pedal and a screw on cable end, but I was desperate to get it sorted as the other half has a horse in her life again, which requires transport to be available!
A quick test drive reveals all to be well, and probably merely down to having fixed A THING, it feels a lot peppeier on the throttle. It could have been my finely honed reflexes detecting the slight alterations in cable tension as the final strands stretched.... but its more likely my imagination!
As I couldn't make sense of the instructions, I deconstructed the existing arrangement, left most of it in situ, and ended up only using the new cable, screw in place cable end, and outer sheathing.
This is a decision I wish I'd made a lot sooner rather than trying to work out how to build a replica then install it....especially when the stated length of cable required was wrong.
I was left with a lot of spare so ended up cutting it to length in situ:
Again, with the wonders of hindsight, the only thing you really need is some thick gauge stainless wire, the connection with the pedal and a screw on cable end, but I was desperate to get it sorted as the other half has a horse in her life again, which requires transport to be available!
A quick test drive reveals all to be well, and probably merely down to having fixed A THING, it feels a lot peppeier on the throttle. It could have been my finely honed reflexes detecting the slight alterations in cable tension as the final strands stretched.... but its more likely my imagination!
Good news for the AX, another year's ticket (and the slightly deteriorated rear hoses weren't an advisory this time strangely).
Having only had new tyres last September, I suspect that the front suspension play has led to the OSF wearing unevenly (there's plenty of tread on the outside of the tyre). Combine that with a soft compound, and this is the result.
I was going to rotate the tyres front to back anyway, so that is on the cards... along with fixing the front suspension and then getting it tracked.
I've ordered the new lower arms from the local factor's so that's hopefully a job for a couple of weeks time. For anyone interested, a well known large supplier sell them, made by someone I've never heard of at a price that's too good to be true. I've opted to spend more so I'm not doing it again in 6 months time....
I'll do an oil change and general check over at the same time as we're off to Le Mans in it next month!
Bobberoo said:
WHOA!!! What?!?!?! Did I just read that right???? 
You're off to Le Mans in it?!?!?
Oh yes, had the tickets since 2020 and the time is finally here!You're off to Le Mans in it?!?!?
With the Corrado still in the paint shop, it was this or the in-laws camper.... That was tempting but would use twice as much fuel on the way....
@Cambs_Stuart, the spares availability was also a consideration (although the camper is a Vauxhall Arena aka a Renault Tragic, so we would probably have been ok there too!
) The fuel gauge had become somewhat.... erratic of late. Insert your own French electrics joke here. It would read full, then empty, then somewhere in between, but was definitely not to be trusted.
This was OK as we know roughly how much we get from a tank, and the Internet confidently informed me that the low fuel light would continue to work, even if the gauge was erratic.
The Internet, as with so many things was wrong. This led to an exchange of messages with my OH about who had last fueled it, and had they reset the trip. There then followed some real world testing on exactly how fuel efficient the AX is.....
She made it to the petrol station 15 miles away as it was beginning to sound distinctly unhappy and fluffy on the throttle. A 43 litre tank will take your 448 miles in normal (enthusiastic) driving, and while knowing that is handy, I think I'll investigate and try and fix the gauge, not least because the trip reset is also playing up a bit.
This was OK as we know roughly how much we get from a tank, and the Internet confidently informed me that the low fuel light would continue to work, even if the gauge was erratic.
The Internet, as with so many things was wrong. This led to an exchange of messages with my OH about who had last fueled it, and had they reset the trip. There then followed some real world testing on exactly how fuel efficient the AX is.....
She made it to the petrol station 15 miles away as it was beginning to sound distinctly unhappy and fluffy on the throttle. A 43 litre tank will take your 448 miles in normal (enthusiastic) driving, and while knowing that is handy, I think I'll investigate and try and fix the gauge, not least because the trip reset is also playing up a bit.
A couple of things to do before heading to Le Mans next week, some important, some less so....Still, a good place to start is with the MOT advisories on the front suspension and tyre wear and an oil change.
For the oil change, I thought I'd stick with the 5w40 fully synthetic, some left over from last time, and some acquired from Freecycle. I actually had enough to take the stuff I bought back and save it for next time! Nice and simple to do as well.
As to the MOT items, it's likely that the suspension wear was causing the tyre wear (especially as I had the tracking done when the tyres were changed). The plan was therefore to change the bottom arms and then swap the tyres front to back, as the rear ones had a lot more life left in them (must be the power of that 4 branch....) I'd already tried a quick swap but the centre caps at the back put up quite the fight so it was going to need more time and percussive implements.
Still, got started on the 'easy' job first with a brand I'd heard of....
Not a particularly complicated job with the right tools, it's all they're in front of you, and requires only 4 nuts and some of the right tools. Haynes say suitable metal bar, what they actually mean is the tuning fork and a big hammer....
It would also be helpful if they was a line in the step by step guide that indicated just how easily the drive shaft will pop out of the gearbox... Still here was are and what DIY job wouldn't be complete without an emergency trip to Halfords?
Aside from that however, two nuts in the footwell under the carpet on each side, and out it comes....
Old and New (got the correct one, phew....)
You can see both the original bushes were perished :
After that, well its the reverse of removal of course.... Yes, just that. So easy, so very, very easy to manipulate the much stiffer not perished bushes on the new suspension, and the not worn ball joints into exactly the correct position using that third arm I had managed to grow along with my name change to Zaphod....
I ended up using the jack to support the section under the ball joint and bear hugging the suspension arrangement to push the drive shaft towards the gearbox and perfectly align the ball joint arrangement and the groove in it that has to line up perfectly....
Apart from that, perfectly simple. A lot of Waxoyl applied to the finished job as in the passenger side, the suspension a connection in the footwell is directly under where the water is still getting in...
Interestingly, the new suspension arms and the underside of the car both have the fittings for an ARB. That might be nice if I can find one....
Managed to get the wheels swapped over on both sides although the centre caps on the rear put up a massive fight as they were both painted and rusted in.... I broke a wooden mallet and suffered some large soft tissue damage in the process.
However, with the gearbox oil topped up, the shakedown run revealed that the handling felt better than it had done in the previous months and that we could move onto the less crucial aspects of the fettling (separate post to follow)
For the oil change, I thought I'd stick with the 5w40 fully synthetic, some left over from last time, and some acquired from Freecycle. I actually had enough to take the stuff I bought back and save it for next time! Nice and simple to do as well.
As to the MOT items, it's likely that the suspension wear was causing the tyre wear (especially as I had the tracking done when the tyres were changed). The plan was therefore to change the bottom arms and then swap the tyres front to back, as the rear ones had a lot more life left in them (must be the power of that 4 branch....) I'd already tried a quick swap but the centre caps at the back put up quite the fight so it was going to need more time and percussive implements.
Still, got started on the 'easy' job first with a brand I'd heard of....
Not a particularly complicated job with the right tools, it's all they're in front of you, and requires only 4 nuts and some of the right tools. Haynes say suitable metal bar, what they actually mean is the tuning fork and a big hammer....
It would also be helpful if they was a line in the step by step guide that indicated just how easily the drive shaft will pop out of the gearbox... Still here was are and what DIY job wouldn't be complete without an emergency trip to Halfords?
Aside from that however, two nuts in the footwell under the carpet on each side, and out it comes....
Old and New (got the correct one, phew....)
You can see both the original bushes were perished :
After that, well its the reverse of removal of course.... Yes, just that. So easy, so very, very easy to manipulate the much stiffer not perished bushes on the new suspension, and the not worn ball joints into exactly the correct position using that third arm I had managed to grow along with my name change to Zaphod....
I ended up using the jack to support the section under the ball joint and bear hugging the suspension arrangement to push the drive shaft towards the gearbox and perfectly align the ball joint arrangement and the groove in it that has to line up perfectly....
Apart from that, perfectly simple. A lot of Waxoyl applied to the finished job as in the passenger side, the suspension a connection in the footwell is directly under where the water is still getting in...
Interestingly, the new suspension arms and the underside of the car both have the fittings for an ARB. That might be nice if I can find one....
Managed to get the wheels swapped over on both sides although the centre caps on the rear put up a massive fight as they were both painted and rusted in.... I broke a wooden mallet and suffered some large soft tissue damage in the process.
However, with the gearbox oil topped up, the shakedown run revealed that the handling felt better than it had done in the previous months and that we could move onto the less crucial aspects of the fettling (separate post to follow)
Thanks both, @Cambs_Stuart, the rear beam seems OK for now (that's it, I expect it to fall apart soon.... )
Other shenanigans this weekend were around the cosmetics. That bonnet.... the time had finally come! If found the colour match, ordered the kit including undercoat and was going to make the most of the weather. There were also the rust bubbles that needed seeing to on the doors, and nothing unforeseen ever comes from poking a rust bubble right.... (I was thinking of Spinakerr's post when I started).
Got the bonnet taped up ready for the quick and dirty rattle can respray:
There was some sanding to get the existing lacquer off and key in the existing paint:
Then the primer went on....
All of it. And I could still see blue. Blast.
At this point, kicking myself for underestimating the amount I needed, I decided to stop, leaving the bonnet a beautiful white primer in contrast to the rest of the car. That's a job for after Le Mans when the extra paint, primer and lacquer has arrived.
Then went hunting around the car for all those rust scabs I'd been meaning to tackle...
The ones on the outside of the doors weren't that bad, the worst bits were where the door seals clamp on, and over time trap moisture against the top of the sills....
Ah. No access to a welder that day, so continuing the quick and dirty theme, this will have to suffice for now.
It's not pretty, but it's better than fresh air, and as all rusty bits that I've found (apart from the front wing, that will need more work....) have been treated with K-rust and Hammerited, I'll come back to those too after Le Mans.
The main thing is to stop the rust spreading on the structural parts which for now at least is complete!
)Other shenanigans this weekend were around the cosmetics. That bonnet.... the time had finally come! If found the colour match, ordered the kit including undercoat and was going to make the most of the weather. There were also the rust bubbles that needed seeing to on the doors, and nothing unforeseen ever comes from poking a rust bubble right.... (I was thinking of Spinakerr's post when I started).
Got the bonnet taped up ready for the quick and dirty rattle can respray:
There was some sanding to get the existing lacquer off and key in the existing paint:
Then the primer went on....
All of it. And I could still see blue. Blast.
At this point, kicking myself for underestimating the amount I needed, I decided to stop, leaving the bonnet a beautiful white primer in contrast to the rest of the car. That's a job for after Le Mans when the extra paint, primer and lacquer has arrived.
Then went hunting around the car for all those rust scabs I'd been meaning to tackle...
The ones on the outside of the doors weren't that bad, the worst bits were where the door seals clamp on, and over time trap moisture against the top of the sills....
Ah. No access to a welder that day, so continuing the quick and dirty theme, this will have to suffice for now.
It's not pretty, but it's better than fresh air, and as all rusty bits that I've found (apart from the front wing, that will need more work....) have been treated with K-rust and Hammerited, I'll come back to those too after Le Mans.
The main thing is to stop the rust spreading on the structural parts which for now at least is complete!
TonyRPH said:
Be aware that some (if not most?) primers are porous - so any moisture will likely get under that primer, and any bare metal will obviously rust.
Thank you, that is good advice. Thankfully, rubbing the bonnet back didn't expose any metal, so the primer is on top of some existing top coat. I'm planning on finishing the job when we get back (assuming that is we have a trouble free run).I meant to add in the updates that after fitting the new suspension arms, I could suddenly hear a suspicious knocking noise that was in no way related to braking, acceleration or cornering. Much panic until jumping up and down on the sills revealed it was coming from the fuel tank....
Perhaps the fuel gauge issue isn't solely an electrical one, but again, something to investigate later (and when the tank is nearly empty).
1300-odd trouble free miles completed on the journey to Le Mans and back... Some insects may have been harmed in this journey...
There was beer, merguez, heat and racing, all in all, a splendid time.
Oh yes, and the 98sp, was cheaper than the 95!
Might have to look further at the ARB though as the AX is a different handling beast when laden to the gunwales with a lot of red wine and beer!
There was beer, merguez, heat and racing, all in all, a splendid time.
Oh yes, and the 98sp, was cheaper than the 95!
Might have to look further at the ARB though as the AX is a different handling beast when laden to the gunwales with a lot of red wine and beer!
Spinakerr said:
Excellent. Very glad to hear the AX made it back, suitably laden - must have been a spectaculr trip. I'm aiming for next year in the 164 for the 100th anniversary - Reader's Cars Road Trip?
We're certainly making plans to return next year, it looks to be a good one with more runners and it would be excellent to meet in person 
- I may be in a different vehicle yet though (Camper plans afoot.....)Spinakerr said:
While you've been away I've been working on puns for the rust removal: having 'an AX to grind' or similar. Its not there yet.
Bravo sir, that is splendid. May I venture that the sills on your 75 may need Roverplating? 
The AX has stated its intent on becoming a difficult customer, with the news from my wife that the speedo stopped working yesterday. Well, was never what you'd call precise due to needle bounce, but now doesn't read at all....
As always, there's an app for that as a temporary measure so you can see how fast you're going, but the larger problem is that it's no longer registering miles on either the odometer or the trip. This on a car with a broken petrol gauge that we fill up at 400 miles (at a push) to avoid running out.
I hope the cable has just popped out of the gearbox, but suspect its more likely broken internally.
Time for a look next week when we get back from.... Scotland....after hundreds of miles and a family funeral. Ah.
Time to accelerate plan B.
As always, there's an app for that as a temporary measure so you can see how fast you're going, but the larger problem is that it's no longer registering miles on either the odometer or the trip. This on a car with a broken petrol gauge that we fill up at 400 miles (at a push) to avoid running out.
I hope the cable has just popped out of the gearbox, but suspect its more likely broken internally.
Time for a look next week when we get back from.... Scotland....after hundreds of miles and a family funeral. Ah.
Time to accelerate plan B.
Bobberoo said:
Plan B?!?!?I'm very glad I went to see it in the metal as the list of jobs it required made me back away slowly....
I think that means that the AX will be off to Scotland tomorrow with a spare can of fuel and a notepad to jot down approximate distances!
Cambs_Stuart said:
Always good to have a reserve tank.
What other cars have you got in the fleet? Have you got threads for them?
Yes, a back up is sensible, I always used to carry a spare can with me, however I'd fallen out of the habit.What other cars have you got in the fleet? Have you got threads for them?
As to the other vehicles, there are some motorbikes that have no threads, a Corrado G60 and a 1934 Morris 8
However, there has been a development and will be another thread along shortly....
I was out gathering Volvo parts yesterday morning following some extended driving of that. My what a difference!
Having collected the parts I needed (and ordered the ones not in stock, it was time to sort out the bonnet (again). This time I decided to take it off to spray it rather than mask everything up.... 4 no. 10mm headed bolts and off it comes.
Wash, light sand, then more primer!
Then some topcoat and lacquer....
It's currently still curing (thanks heatwave) but I'll take a look when I get home and see if it needs another coat.
It's nothing more than a rattle can job, but will hopefully smarten it up.
I think I might leave the bonnet off though until the speedo cable arrives as it will make fitting easier...
Having collected the parts I needed (and ordered the ones not in stock, it was time to sort out the bonnet (again). This time I decided to take it off to spray it rather than mask everything up.... 4 no. 10mm headed bolts and off it comes.
Wash, light sand, then more primer!
Then some topcoat and lacquer....
It's currently still curing (thanks heatwave) but I'll take a look when I get home and see if it needs another coat.
It's nothing more than a rattle can job, but will hopefully smarten it up.
I think I might leave the bonnet off though until the speedo cable arrives as it will make fitting easier...
A parcel arrived from AutoDoc containing a speedo cable (and some service items for the Volvo.... but first things first), so it was time to take the dash out.
Getting the wheel off involved a deep socket which I didn't have the exact shiny one of, so a box spanner that came with my dad's took box did the job....
...with extra leverage.
Wheel off, steering wheel shroud loosened, torx bits undone.... Et voila.
Attach a bit of string to the end and having removed the section from the gearbox, it's time to extract it.
At this point it confirms my suspicion that the only cable that AutoDoc listed for the car, is too short, and actually for a pre-facelift car. Blast.
At least I was able to confirm that the cable innards were broken, and find a replacement part online.
I also managed to put the bonnet back on (I'm very glad it's a small light car).
I've not done a great job of spraying it, and I'm not sure about the colour match.... Not sure if will polish out, but we'll see.
The topic was discussed on last week's Smith and Sniff podcast, oh how correct they were.
Getting the wheel off involved a deep socket which I didn't have the exact shiny one of, so a box spanner that came with my dad's took box did the job....
...with extra leverage.
Wheel off, steering wheel shroud loosened, torx bits undone.... Et voila.
Attach a bit of string to the end and having removed the section from the gearbox, it's time to extract it.
At this point it confirms my suspicion that the only cable that AutoDoc listed for the car, is too short, and actually for a pre-facelift car. Blast.
At least I was able to confirm that the cable innards were broken, and find a replacement part online.
I also managed to put the bonnet back on (I'm very glad it's a small light car).
I've not done a great job of spraying it, and I'm not sure about the colour match.... Not sure if will polish out, but we'll see.
The topic was discussed on last week's Smith and Sniff podcast, oh how correct they were.
Yup, that looks more like it. Thanks to the ebay seller for dispatching this so quickly. Thanks for nothing Autodoc (who now want to charge me for sending back the part they claimed would fit).
Got it threaded through the necessary places, and devoted in the gearbox with a new nyloc nut on the end. Fancy....
Then put the air filter etc. back in and went to put the other end in the instrument cluster....which was when I realised I needed more slack and started taking the air filter back out again. Sigh.
Hopefully get back to it tomorrow evening as we're hoping to go to Festival of The Unexceptional on Saturday!
Spinakerr said:
Same here - all ok until the last stage! Thanks for the tip.
See how the bonnet goes and perhaps if it really bothers you in a few months take it in (or off) for paint somewhere trustworthy.
The more I look at the bonnet, the more I think that will be the case. Still, I was able to look at the bonnet through the windscreen as I was driving it to test the tacho cable installation.See how the bonnet goes and perhaps if it really bothers you in a few months take it in (or off) for paint somewhere trustworthy.
Something is wrong...the speedo needle doesn't waggle anymore, just reads the actual speed I'm doing. The odometer works as well, so I can tell how far we've gone between fill ups which is handy as the fuel gauge is still on the list of things to fix....
However, we have a full tank of E5, and Lincolnshire beckons!
What a truly excellent day out. I may or may not have spent a lot of time looking at various old French heaps (there were at least 2 other AXs
and more BXs than you could shake a stick at....
A real pleasure to meet Spinakerr in person and get a tour of the Alfa too. A testament to your hard work in the metal!
A good drive down and back, the speedo cable held up nicely (although I really hope it over reads.... gulp) and a 48mpg average - a refreshing change from the Volvo (although the NVH levels were a little higher).
There wasn't a great deal to report in AX world, it had been ticking over ok (good thing too given the state of the Volvo...).
A new indicator was needed following an incident with a branch.
I had been trying to find one, got one delivered that had broken in transit,, but not done anything more. Good thing to really, as I on the way back from Beamish today....well, there's one fewer pheasant in the world, and I REALLY need to find and fit an indicator.
Potentially a new front bumper too, but I think I'm unlikely to find one, so will just end up living with it.
I also had to remove the last of the unfortunate bird from the nearside rear handbrake cable.
A new indicator was needed following an incident with a branch.
I had been trying to find one, got one delivered that had broken in transit,, but not done anything more. Good thing to really, as I on the way back from Beamish today....well, there's one fewer pheasant in the world, and I REALLY need to find and fit an indicator.
Potentially a new front bumper too, but I think I'm unlikely to find one, so will just end up living with it.
I also had to remove the last of the unfortunate bird from the nearside rear handbrake cable.
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