Honda Integra Type R (DC2)
Discussion
chrismc1977 said:
I’ve got an Alpine Bluetooth unit in mine- screen adjusted to match the orange illumination of the dash as I’m very fussy about such things- also upgraded all the speakers to Alpine as well & it’s a very competent setup.
Discovered last year that my car had Alpine speakers in the doors, I'm guessing they're not OEM then. They sounded crap with the JVC head unit that was in there but they're surprisingly good with the new unit!
Spent the day under the car sorting out the exhaust. A few things I wanted to do - get a better manifold on there and stop the back box touching the suspension on big compressions.
New header is on plus a JDM cat, but the length difference means there's a short section missing. I planned ahead, though - I knew this would happen so I've got the pipe and the flanges (you can see I've put them on temporarily in the pic) ready.
Just need to see if anywhere locally will do the little bit of welding needed to stick the pipe to the flanges, though last time I did that the welds were horrendous. Wish I could see some examples of work before I commit to anyone really.
Yeah, it should be an easy job... but finding somewhere that can weld well isn't that easy even with the internet! Really ought to try my hand at it one day, it's a skill I'd like to have.
Flanges at the other end are relatively new, my car's exhaust is a proper mish-mash which is why I'm having to make this tiny fill section. Best thing to do would be to replace the whole system but that's $$$!
Flanges at the other end are relatively new, my car's exhaust is a proper mish-mash which is why I'm having to make this tiny fill section. Best thing to do would be to replace the whole system but that's $$$!
If you need something done right, call up dad. That's how the saying goes, right?
Not only did he weld up the short section for me, he even made an aluminium heat shield because the OEM one was missing.
Just been out for a run and it's back to its best. No knocks from the back, and no leaks at the front. I'm thinking it may have even had a slight leak before as I'm sure it's quieter.
Here are my thoughts for next jobs:
- Need a replacement bonnet without rust - so will likely go for a carbon one. Then I'll have the front end resprayed to hide it.
- Engine bay needs a tidy up and I'll repaint the cam cover
- I want to change the battery cut-off so that it's a switch in the cabin rather than a screw-off type in the engine bay
- I would love to get an original, good condition leather wheel as the one in there is re-trimmed in Alcantara, which you have to clean constantly otherwise it feels horrible. However, these are insanely expensive!
- As you can see in the pic above, the front suspension has a lot of surface rust. Ideas welcome on the best solution... probably a good time to re-bush and get a pro geometry set-up done afterwards
I followed a guide in the DC2 forums and cleaned my IACV because I thought it looked like something worth doing. My car wasn't idling badly, just a little higher than it did when I bought it.
But after following the instructions carefully - twice - the car is now not able to idle from cold, and when warm after a rev from idle it won't drop back to a normal idle. It drops right down to below 500rpm and then either manages to catch itself and go back to 1000rpm (warm) or just stalls.
Any ideas why? I have tried an ECU reset and as I said I also tried taking the IACV off a second time and cleaning it again. I checked the vaccuum lines too which seem fine, and sprayed around the IACV with carb cleaner to look for leaks.
The only other thing I can think of is that it might be the TPS which I also popped off to clean... but I put it back exactly as it was and it all looked fine. The little o-ring gasket looked fine but there was some debris around it which I cleaned off.
But after following the instructions carefully - twice - the car is now not able to idle from cold, and when warm after a rev from idle it won't drop back to a normal idle. It drops right down to below 500rpm and then either manages to catch itself and go back to 1000rpm (warm) or just stalls.
Any ideas why? I have tried an ECU reset and as I said I also tried taking the IACV off a second time and cleaning it again. I checked the vaccuum lines too which seem fine, and sprayed around the IACV with carb cleaner to look for leaks.
The only other thing I can think of is that it might be the TPS which I also popped off to clean... but I put it back exactly as it was and it all looked fine. The little o-ring gasket looked fine but there was some debris around it which I cleaned off.
I actually didn't touch the TPS, I realised it was the MAP sensor that I took off. Overnight the car has decided to behave itself when starting, so it idles fine when cold now and settles down to a normal idle when warm.
BUT it still has this annoying problem of almost stalling when you blip the throttle at idle. I've been desperately searching forum threads and I only found one that seemed to have any kind of solution but it was never followed up on. They suggested recalibrating the TPS but I can't see how to get it off, there are no bolts or screws. I'm also scared to touch anything else now this has caused all this stress - all because I wanted to knock off an easy job!
EDIT: I checked the TPS voltages and they are 0.46 closed and 4.46 open which looks to be within spec so probably not that. I've also ordered a new MAP sensor just in case.
BUT it still has this annoying problem of almost stalling when you blip the throttle at idle. I've been desperately searching forum threads and I only found one that seemed to have any kind of solution but it was never followed up on. They suggested recalibrating the TPS but I can't see how to get it off, there are no bolts or screws. I'm also scared to touch anything else now this has caused all this stress - all because I wanted to knock off an easy job!
EDIT: I checked the TPS voltages and they are 0.46 closed and 4.46 open which looks to be within spec so probably not that. I've also ordered a new MAP sensor just in case.
Edited by greeneggsnsam on Saturday 3rd July 14:19
I cleaned the PCV valve today and it's got ever so slightly better.
The problem is that when you rev it from idle, or come down to idle with the clutch in like at a junction, the revs drop to about 500 and then come back up to 750. Previously it was dropping below 500 so it's not really a huge concern now, even though it's clearly not working as it's supposed to.
I want to check to see if the IACV is sticky (by putting some current through it on the bench) and have a look inside the throttle body but I'll wait until the weather's a bit better.
In the meantime I'm wondering what these buttons are for... I wonder if they're related to the alarm but they don't seem to do anything. Anyone know?
The problem is that when you rev it from idle, or come down to idle with the clutch in like at a junction, the revs drop to about 500 and then come back up to 750. Previously it was dropping below 500 so it's not really a huge concern now, even though it's clearly not working as it's supposed to.
I want to check to see if the IACV is sticky (by putting some current through it on the bench) and have a look inside the throttle body but I'll wait until the weather's a bit better.
In the meantime I'm wondering what these buttons are for... I wonder if they're related to the alarm but they don't seem to do anything. Anyone know?
Well I bit the bullet and bought a used (known working) IACV off ebay, we'll see if that works.
I tried cleaning the throttle body, but that made the issue worse, as the engine is back to stalling on light throttle/return to idle.
Checked if my IACV was working, it seemed to be - it was engaging when I put current through it with a 9v battery. But it's honestly the only thing left. I even checked the spark plugs and they look fine. Also replaced the MAP sensor and it made no difference.
This issue is by far the worst (in terms of being able to fix it) I've ever had with this car, and what makes it worse is that it was clearly something I did, because it was fine before I cleaned the IACV in the first place.
I tried cleaning the throttle body, but that made the issue worse, as the engine is back to stalling on light throttle/return to idle.
Checked if my IACV was working, it seemed to be - it was engaging when I put current through it with a 9v battery. But it's honestly the only thing left. I even checked the spark plugs and they look fine. Also replaced the MAP sensor and it made no difference.
This issue is by far the worst (in terms of being able to fix it) I've ever had with this car, and what makes it worse is that it was clearly something I did, because it was fine before I cleaned the IACV in the first place.
The second-hand IACV turned up. It looked filthy but I was scared to clean it so stuck it straight on, and it's sorted the issue.
Since there aren't many threads online about this that actually resolve the issue, I'm hoping this one gets onto Google to help anyone else in the future - that's why I posted each step as I did them. If you're that person, hope this helps - just get a new IACV. I reckon the carb cleaner I used damaged the internals of the valve somehow.
£100 lesson learned...
Since there aren't many threads online about this that actually resolve the issue, I'm hoping this one gets onto Google to help anyone else in the future - that's why I posted each step as I did them. If you're that person, hope this helps - just get a new IACV. I reckon the carb cleaner I used damaged the internals of the valve somehow.
£100 lesson learned...
Just dropped off the DC2 today for a proper pampering... new bonnet to be sprayed/fitted and then the front bumper and wings are getting painted too. Well worth doing given the value of the car now, and as it's now going to live in the garage it was the right time to do it.
Will post pics as soon as I have it back!
Will post pics as soon as I have it back!
Paint is all on and the car's safely back in the garage! Excuse the rubbish pic right outside the spray shop, I'll get some better ones at some point.
I found the bonnet on ebay after searching for six months for one without any rust on it. It was off a white car, which is part of why I went with a full front-end spray. The wings and bumper were looking tired anyway, so it's so good to have it back looking brand new.
Wallet is a lot lighter than it was last week though...
Hi everyone, thread revival time! Took the Integra to Retro Rides Weekender and went out on track. If you were there and got a pic/vid of me on track, would love to see it.
I had the Spoon N1 on, which was within noise limits fairly comfortably, but I was starting to get ear pain in the car. Maybe a sign I'm getting old. I forgot my earplugs though, would have been very useful!
Anyway, one of the jobs I want to do next is get a nice original steering wheel to replace the Alcantara-trimmed one I've got. I've seen some nice Accord Type R wheels on ebay, and the listings often mention that they fit on a DC2. However when you look this up online it's not really very clear if that's the case or not. Does anyone know about this?
If you read Classic and Sports Car this month you'll find an article by my friend Will about three Type Rs. We shot this ages ago, way before my car was sprayed, so you can still see the crusty bonnet
The photographer, Luc, did an amazing job with some fairly mundane roads. At least we had good weather, though. It's nice to have this mag in my collection.
In other news, I'm going to be at the PH track evening at Brands next week, so say hello if you're there. Got to switch from the current Spoon exhaust to the OEM back box before then, because as great as the Spoon sounds it's really loud.
Had a great evening at the PH track evening at Brands Hatch. With the AD08 tyres and big brakes on my car, it always feels more at home on track than on the road. It feels bulletproof out there too, like I could keep hammering round all night.
My brother brought his new M4 and loved it, he was having a great time. At brands we're able to keep up with each other, me in the corners and then he pulls away on the pit straight
Nice Civic 
Agree on parts prices being silly, I really hope Honda decide to start making them in volume again like some other Japanese makers have started doing for popular models.
Here's the result of today's job - new cam cover. Yes, new - was still in the original packaging! I'll be refurbishing the old one and selling it on to recoup some of the cost.
Agree on parts prices being silly, I really hope Honda decide to start making them in volume again like some other Japanese makers have started doing for popular models.Here's the result of today's job - new cam cover. Yes, new - was still in the original packaging! I'll be refurbishing the old one and selling it on to recoup some of the cost.
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