1986 Saab 900 Turbo - White
Discussion
The Saab's boot lock had worked itself loose, so I unhooked some trim to take a gander.
Fortunately after my past remedial action nothing was amiss, but with the two housing clip broken (as found), I decided to put in a temporary gasket/bracket. With fingers numbing in the freezing temperatures and the lure of a hot tea dampening my brain, I seized some nearby aluminium and cut the requite apertures.
Fortunately the can is flexible enough to mould to the differing curves and indentations, at least until I find a new lock housing.
I'm sure you'll all appreciate this kind of 'can do' attitude.
I quickly scurried back inside to keep the kettle company.
Fortunately after my past remedial action nothing was amiss, but with the two housing clip broken (as found), I decided to put in a temporary gasket/bracket. With fingers numbing in the freezing temperatures and the lure of a hot tea dampening my brain, I seized some nearby aluminium and cut the requite apertures.
Fortunately the can is flexible enough to mould to the differing curves and indentations, at least until I find a new lock housing.
I'm sure you'll all appreciate this kind of 'can do' attitude.
I quickly scurried back inside to keep the kettle company.
Appreciate your candid responses all.
No rust flake unturned, no crumbling wire left unprodded.
The boot lock just disassembled itself into 25 expensive pieces. That's Saturday morning sorted then. Notable the can repair was still in place - the problem seems to be the barrel itself being gummed up.
No rust flake unturned, no crumbling wire left unprodded.
The boot lock just disassembled itself into 25 expensive pieces. That's Saturday morning sorted then. Notable the can repair was still in place - the problem seems to be the barrel itself being gummed up.
My wife has zero foreseeable interest in letting this one go, unless a 99 with a full green interior became vailable!
A post-winter slosh and a check of all the usual variables under the bonnet yielded a reminder of some known issues and a predictable new one.
1) The paintwork is acting as a sponge for every molecule of dirt. the various shades of different white, applied in different decades and by different levels of competence are really starting to show the old girl up. I will continue with the rust repairs and attempt to ignore this.
2) Radiator is 'bruten'. I noticed the coolant level was dragging itself downward after 3 months, and the radiator shows several areas of blue ooziness and general end-of-lifery.
Attempting to track down a replacement but predictably sold out everywhere. The DO88 aluminium one would be £300 delivered, and seems like the wrong level of cash given the rest of the car work required.
At least it will give me a chance to tidy up the now scabrous slam panel, which has always been an eyesore but after this winter's sodium chloride now has a 'Wreck of the Maria Doria' look about it. Best to take it off and get it down to the metal!
Any recommendations on 900 radiators well received - seemingly all models were the same on the Classic.
A post-winter slosh and a check of all the usual variables under the bonnet yielded a reminder of some known issues and a predictable new one.
1) The paintwork is acting as a sponge for every molecule of dirt. the various shades of different white, applied in different decades and by different levels of competence are really starting to show the old girl up. I will continue with the rust repairs and attempt to ignore this.
2) Radiator is 'bruten'. I noticed the coolant level was dragging itself downward after 3 months, and the radiator shows several areas of blue ooziness and general end-of-lifery.
Attempting to track down a replacement but predictably sold out everywhere. The DO88 aluminium one would be £300 delivered, and seems like the wrong level of cash given the rest of the car work required.
At least it will give me a chance to tidy up the now scabrous slam panel, which has always been an eyesore but after this winter's sodium chloride now has a 'Wreck of the Maria Doria' look about it. Best to take it off and get it down to the metal!
Any recommendations on 900 radiators well received - seemingly all models were the same on the Classic.
r129sl said:
£125 with adrad.co.uk (I have bought radiators from them and they are very good). No idea whether it is precisely the right one, though. Nor whether they have the stock.
https://www.adrad.co.uk/prices/prices.php?type=rad...
Thanks - I have just ordered one, the measurements are correct and the they didn't change from 1984 to 1993 so fingers crossed. Good price too, much appreciated!https://www.adrad.co.uk/prices/prices.php?type=rad...
Thanks, yes I think we're all guilty of not being able to let go for at least one car in our history... my first car was an asthmatic 1.6 Ford Capri with a slightly twisted chassis... I just didn't want to lose it.
The Saab part situation is absolutely fine, really - clubs, spares, independent garages with scrapyards full of the marque, and reasonably priced. I just secured a new boot lock, with all the correct bolt fittings to displace my rubbish improvisation fix, for £15. Key included.
Compared to the 164, where I end up on Italian sites cross referencing numbers with Lancia Theme manuals in Italian, its a doddle.
Fortunately this one is sound underneath - it needs the door bottoms redone (very common) and some fresh underseal in places, but nothing remotely worrying. The paint is the only real item letting it down now.
Hope you find something to adjust, fettle or repair in your holiday!
The Saab part situation is absolutely fine, really - clubs, spares, independent garages with scrapyards full of the marque, and reasonably priced. I just secured a new boot lock, with all the correct bolt fittings to displace my rubbish improvisation fix, for £15. Key included.
Compared to the 164, where I end up on Italian sites cross referencing numbers with Lancia Theme manuals in Italian, its a doddle.
Fortunately this one is sound underneath - it needs the door bottoms redone (very common) and some fresh underseal in places, but nothing remotely worrying. The paint is the only real item letting it down now.
Hope you find something to adjust, fettle or repair in your holiday!
With a day off, bright sun and a heady mid-teens in temperature I had a day gently car fidgeting. First up - Saab boot lock.
An autopsy of the original lock revealed the cause of the key jam. A prior owner had attempted to fix the lock back in to the boot with epoxy (as the two bolt horns had been previously broken off). Some of this dried epoxy had worked itself into the springs and inner pins, causing them to jam and keep a grip on the key.
The new lock thankfully had the bolt horns and no evident of epoxy ingress.
Reinstallation was easy, but only after I realised the centrol locking assembly had fallen away, necessitating a crawl through the car to a faint distant light. "Come out to the coast, get together, have a few laughs..."
Emerging from the boot Ace Venture/rhino style to some surprised neighbours hopefully reinstalled my local reputation after an absent year, and the lock fitted perfectly in the slot.
Result.
In other news, the order from adrad (thank you r129sl) turned up after 24hrs and is a Nissens unit. That's tomorrow sorted then.
An autopsy of the original lock revealed the cause of the key jam. A prior owner had attempted to fix the lock back in to the boot with epoxy (as the two bolt horns had been previously broken off). Some of this dried epoxy had worked itself into the springs and inner pins, causing them to jam and keep a grip on the key.
The new lock thankfully had the bolt horns and no evident of epoxy ingress.
Reinstallation was easy, but only after I realised the centrol locking assembly had fallen away, necessitating a crawl through the car to a faint distant light. "Come out to the coast, get together, have a few laughs..."
Emerging from the boot Ace Venture/rhino style to some surprised neighbours hopefully reinstalled my local reputation after an absent year, and the lock fitted perfectly in the slot.
Result.
In other news, the order from adrad (thank you r129sl) turned up after 24hrs and is a Nissens unit. That's tomorrow sorted then.
Herr Schnell said:
My dad had a 99 Turbo in that very spec, everything on it was green. Green from the carpets to the headlining including the acres of verdant velour inbetween.
I have a very vivid memory of a promo girl who was working at some petrol station putting her head through the window to flog STP additives and stopping dead in her tracks. After taking in the full glory of she asked the old man if he'd done it himself as she couldn't believe a manufacturer would actually do such a thing.
Awesome! I really do love a full coordinated interior. For the Saab I recently got excited about some classic 900 seats in the light blue fabric, as these would have been the original spec for our car. Sadly, they are the 'post 91' seats with different bolt patterns and tilt mechanisms, so would not bit. BlastI have a very vivid memory of a promo girl who was working at some petrol station putting her head through the window to flog STP additives and stopping dead in her tracks. After taking in the full glory of she asked the old man if he'd done it himself as she couldn't believe a manufacturer would actually do such a thing.
Today I started on the radiator, with some inevitable scope creep. Can it be called scope creep if you planned to do it? I think the extent of the change qualifies.
Here's the engine bay, all normal but some nasty deposits from winter driving and the leaky radiator was making a mess on the lower bedragglements of the car.
Here's the planned item - the front slam panel, probably the worst bit of rust on the car now as it just collects any moisture and salt and sits in pools, spreading like algae in a petri dish.
Top of the old rad is ok but the bottom is shot. I'm attempting to source a new bonnet release spring - anyone know the spec?
Grill off, various bolts and screws treated.
Bonnet off and the extent of the brown cultures are evident.
Radiator soup dangerously near a chief grounding point...
Unbolted everythign attached to the slam panel - coil, pressure regulator for the vac system, lights, fan, clips and wires...
Fancy radiator dran at 24mm worked for 50%, but then the pipe split...
Fan out following part of the turbo pipework and more vacuum hoses. Luckily screws were intact!
Radiator came out nicely, top and bottom hoses and all clips fortunately in good order.
Took the lights out and started seeing how the slam panel would unbolt. Ah. It doesn't! The slam panel and bonnet striker are all part of the radiator frame. Blast, that puts my thoughts of bathing it in deoxit gel to pasture!
Plan B - remove as must as possible attached to the radiator frame, tackle as much rust as possible in situ while protecting the engine.
Wire brushing manually was hard work, but I wanted to remove anything flaky before I broke out the new took - finger sander from Makita (thank you 99T for the tip!). This made short work of the brown stuff - I don't know how I have existed without one in my life.
I resolved to spend the majority of my time and attention on the top slam panel, and go for best efforts on the frame itself.
That looks a bit better! Still lots of pitting and flecks in the cracks, so Hydrate 80 was carefully applied, and this time I even did the second coat at 90 degrees throughout.
Hopefully finish the painting and derusting tomorrow. Might have to wait a week before I get the radiator back in and everything reassembled, but happy with that progress!
Here's the engine bay, all normal but some nasty deposits from winter driving and the leaky radiator was making a mess on the lower bedragglements of the car.
Here's the planned item - the front slam panel, probably the worst bit of rust on the car now as it just collects any moisture and salt and sits in pools, spreading like algae in a petri dish.
Top of the old rad is ok but the bottom is shot. I'm attempting to source a new bonnet release spring - anyone know the spec?
Grill off, various bolts and screws treated.
Bonnet off and the extent of the brown cultures are evident.
Radiator soup dangerously near a chief grounding point...
Unbolted everythign attached to the slam panel - coil, pressure regulator for the vac system, lights, fan, clips and wires...
Fancy radiator dran at 24mm worked for 50%, but then the pipe split...
Fan out following part of the turbo pipework and more vacuum hoses. Luckily screws were intact!
Radiator came out nicely, top and bottom hoses and all clips fortunately in good order.
Took the lights out and started seeing how the slam panel would unbolt. Ah. It doesn't! The slam panel and bonnet striker are all part of the radiator frame. Blast, that puts my thoughts of bathing it in deoxit gel to pasture!
Plan B - remove as must as possible attached to the radiator frame, tackle as much rust as possible in situ while protecting the engine.
Wire brushing manually was hard work, but I wanted to remove anything flaky before I broke out the new took - finger sander from Makita (thank you 99T for the tip!). This made short work of the brown stuff - I don't know how I have existed without one in my life.
I resolved to spend the majority of my time and attention on the top slam panel, and go for best efforts on the frame itself.
That looks a bit better! Still lots of pitting and flecks in the cracks, so Hydrate 80 was carefully applied, and this time I even did the second coat at 90 degrees throughout.
Hopefully finish the painting and derusting tomorrow. Might have to wait a week before I get the radiator back in and everything reassembled, but happy with that progress!
Cambs_Stuart said:
That finger sander looks great. More precise than a wheel on an angle grinder, but faster than a brush. I think I may have to invest in one. I did admire them when i saw the bad obsession team using it to clean up the welds on binky.
Good work on the SAAB.
Yes can't recommend it enough - Makita 9032. Pricey but no nonsense.Good work on the SAAB.
In between rain showers, gale force winds and various shenanigans I managed to complete the rust treatments, mask up the are and get the paint on. For the awkward areas below the slam panel I gave it two coats of Hammerite Smooth. Not concours but done. The slam panel itself was wire woolled, the sprayed with zinc primer and four layers of satin black.
Let's hope I don't have to dash out again with the waterproof cover - not ideal doing this all outside in the wind and dust, but I'm past that right now.
Preparing for reassembly, I noticed the new radiator core is thinner than the original.
If I use the radiator tabs in the original fashion there will be a 1cm gap between the fan and the core, impacting efficiency if my memory of thermodynamics serves.
I decided to order a few mounting kits to experiment with direct mounting, something I've completed on past projects and electric fan upgrades. An extra 1cm of hand room in this area would be welcome in any case.
I also orders some hook springs for the rust bonnet release tensioner and other fripperies. Tonight the covers will be back on and hopefully next weekend ready for reassembly!
The Saab is back together this morning - good weather, a good night's sleep and a fresh pot of coffee provided good omens for the rebuild.
I took the expansion tank off for a scrub last night, lo an behold some surface rust to be scraped and removed, followed by a coat of Bilt Hamber.
Its not pretty, but this isn't Pebble Beach, and not much of the original paintwork remains anyway.
I used whatever combination of dishwasher tablets/gravel/boiling water/ coca cola you are thinking of to soak the tank overnight.
Seeing the repainted front frame and slam panels in daylight I'm quite happy with the finish. I didn't flat back the slam panel perfectly but its a massive improvement!
I spent quite a while sorting and cleaning bolts, binning and replacing rusty fitting and generally attempting to get things to match up nicely.
The radiator mounts should have metal insert bushes - one was missing so I sawed apart a brickwork fitting bolt and teased it to the right circumference.
The two fan mounting kits had arrived in the week, and after a test fitting it was clear the thin bolts with giant washers were perfect for the recessed holes in the original fan, and I rotated it 90 degrees to ensure a snug fit.
Its quite nerve wracking persuading aluminium fins to step aside with a cocktail stick, but it worked a treat. I also cut the bolts shorter and there's now an extra cm of room at the front end. The cable clips were removed an used at alternate spokes to tidy things away, and I'm happies with the result.
With that out of the way, I spent a few hours carefully refitting items, occasionally reneweing bolts, washers or altering cable and wire runs to be tidier.
The cleaned tank is as good as...used. Well, I don't think the off yellow colour will ever be banished but I 'll take the original unit over any suspect new replacements.
Finally topped up the coolant and turned the key... success! Not only did it not spring a leak but once up to temperature the fan operated correctly. Satisfactory result.
I noticed one steering rack gaitor starting to split and the alternator belts dancing about a bit, so that's two more jobs for the list. For the moment though, ready for the warmer weather!
I took the expansion tank off for a scrub last night, lo an behold some surface rust to be scraped and removed, followed by a coat of Bilt Hamber.
Its not pretty, but this isn't Pebble Beach, and not much of the original paintwork remains anyway.
I used whatever combination of dishwasher tablets/gravel/boiling water/ coca cola you are thinking of to soak the tank overnight.
Seeing the repainted front frame and slam panels in daylight I'm quite happy with the finish. I didn't flat back the slam panel perfectly but its a massive improvement!
I spent quite a while sorting and cleaning bolts, binning and replacing rusty fitting and generally attempting to get things to match up nicely.
The radiator mounts should have metal insert bushes - one was missing so I sawed apart a brickwork fitting bolt and teased it to the right circumference.
The two fan mounting kits had arrived in the week, and after a test fitting it was clear the thin bolts with giant washers were perfect for the recessed holes in the original fan, and I rotated it 90 degrees to ensure a snug fit.
Its quite nerve wracking persuading aluminium fins to step aside with a cocktail stick, but it worked a treat. I also cut the bolts shorter and there's now an extra cm of room at the front end. The cable clips were removed an used at alternate spokes to tidy things away, and I'm happies with the result.
With that out of the way, I spent a few hours carefully refitting items, occasionally reneweing bolts, washers or altering cable and wire runs to be tidier.
The cleaned tank is as good as...used. Well, I don't think the off yellow colour will ever be banished but I 'll take the original unit over any suspect new replacements.
Finally topped up the coolant and turned the key... success! Not only did it not spring a leak but once up to temperature the fan operated correctly. Satisfactory result.
I noticed one steering rack gaitor starting to split and the alternator belts dancing about a bit, so that's two more jobs for the list. For the moment though, ready for the warmer weather!
Thanks all - yes quite a satisfying little spruce up.
Glad its of interest, I enjoy documenting the work and catching up with people oh PH, and don't often go to the dedicated marque clubs/forums unless there's something really I can't figure out. Always a fan of the variety on this Forum.
BEAMS 162 said:
Probably the same frustrations for all of us older car lovers though,when spare panels are needed even if you find a donor,they've all gone in the same places and that's generally the reason they've ended up as a donor in the first place.Think you've done very well with this car though structurally.
Enjoying your car threads and also your attention to detail even on the smallest jobs, (chasing the usual age related delapidation of rubber parts and brittle plastics is always going to be a recurring theme!). Also the amusing descriptions ( the 'droids eye' springs to mind), and the sprinkling of wit throughout.
Excellent stuff,and as someone mentioned that's the good thing about Forums,always usually a good tale of automotive faffery to sit down and read about, which is much needed with things being as they have of recent. All the best.
Yes structurally sounds, the Saab definitely is a standard bearer for the cliche of Swedish steel and resistance. I think I prefer tackling the complicated vacuum and ignition system over the bodywork angle, so perhaps this one is suited to me. The Japanese cars seem to be the other way round!Enjoying your car threads and also your attention to detail even on the smallest jobs, (chasing the usual age related delapidation of rubber parts and brittle plastics is always going to be a recurring theme!). Also the amusing descriptions ( the 'droids eye' springs to mind), and the sprinkling of wit throughout.
Excellent stuff,and as someone mentioned that's the good thing about Forums,always usually a good tale of automotive faffery to sit down and read about, which is much needed with things being as they have of recent. All the best.
Glad its of interest, I enjoy documenting the work and catching up with people oh PH, and don't often go to the dedicated marque clubs/forums unless there's something really I can't figure out. Always a fan of the variety on this Forum.
Thanks all - plenty to go on this car but I'm gaining enthusiasm and confidence on rust repair - next up the sunroof, and perhaps a fresh alternator as I think its on the way out. Still charges correctly but the bearing sound a tad grindy....
That Brightwells cab looks honest - its had some paint in the past and I would want more picture of the underneath but looks like a 'one family owner from new' kind of car. Standard 2000s radio 'upgrade' and wear throughout!
That Brightwells cab looks honest - its had some paint in the past and I would want more picture of the underneath but looks like a 'one family owner from new' kind of car. Standard 2000s radio 'upgrade' and wear throughout!
Some exciting news - a stainless steel Carlsson twin pipe exhaust has been secured from the latest batch by Steve Lewis... I am very excited!
Over the years I've amalgamated the rest of the 2.25" system in stainless steel, including a Scorpion back box. Yes, really. The standard size for the T16 should be 2.25in let's hope it all comes together neatly!
This will also prompt me to fix the broken exhaust hanger and renew the underseal... will start booking ramp space.
Over the years I've amalgamated the rest of the 2.25" system in stainless steel, including a Scorpion back box. Yes, really. The standard size for the T16 should be 2.25in let's hope it all comes together neatly!
This will also prompt me to fix the broken exhaust hanger and renew the underseal... will start booking ramp space.
Thanks all - hoping it will be a touch more noticeable but nothing obnoxious.
By all accounts the twin pipe has a distinctly more appealing note - my main problem is the standard exhaust looks like a vacuum attachment.
At present there's no headlining in that car so I'm aiming to time that addition before the complete exhaust for interior audio balance.
By all accounts the twin pipe has a distinctly more appealing note - my main problem is the standard exhaust looks like a vacuum attachment.
At present there's no headlining in that car so I'm aiming to time that addition before the complete exhaust for interior audio balance.
Would you believe me if I said I acquired a cam cover this weekend?
I was looking at the engine and its (almost) tidy appearance in this thread and thought - definitely need to get it done.
As the car is in regular use and I often spend multiple weekends on painting job, I've sourced another one that I can work on at my leisure, then swap it over with new gaskets in a single day.
I can then refurb the original and hopefully make some money back.
The cans of VHT and satin black are looming on the shelf, willing me on. I'll see if I can find some extra long gloves a-la Edd for the full Wheeler Dealer experience (without the acrimonious ending).
I was looking at the engine and its (almost) tidy appearance in this thread and thought - definitely need to get it done.
As the car is in regular use and I often spend multiple weekends on painting job, I've sourced another one that I can work on at my leisure, then swap it over with new gaskets in a single day.
I can then refurb the original and hopefully make some money back.
The cans of VHT and satin black are looming on the shelf, willing me on. I'll see if I can find some extra long gloves a-la Edd for the full Wheeler Dealer experience (without the acrimonious ending).
I had contemplated the red route for the silicone hoses and so forth but in the end really liked the original looks - guess what's going to happen to the cam cover?
As the car is in daily use by the wife I sourced a ropey cover to play with over a few weekends, and swap it over only when ready to go.
As delivered:
I took off the spark plug cover plate from the car, extracted a wizened central gasket and raided the top shelf of the garage for chemicals.
I had heard tales of paint strippers losing their fangs in recent years, but I was still surprised at the absence of impact to the sturdy Sweden paint! Neither Nitromors nor Diall made any real impression, even when left wrapped in clingfilm for days. In the words of a thousand radio presenters: "Don't touch that Diall!".
The only way to make progress was a wire brush dipped in the stuff and wire wool - it took and age, but I got there. Next time I'm opening a trade account with BASF.
The next weekend, a douse of engine cleaning foam on the insides (didn't really touch it but I made the effort) and a solid rinse left me with a presentable aluminium body.
I scoured this with some wet and dry to key the surface, remove any final ingrained specs and the aluminium that has oxidised, then let it dry for a good afternoon in the sun.
I'm no painter, but I thought you would all like to see the setup of a hangman's prop with a crowbar.
First coat naturall was followed by some high winds that ensured leaves, petals and particles dropped onto the fresh paint, so I joyfully removed them once dray and gave it another coat.
Now for 4 coats of satin black...
As the car is in daily use by the wife I sourced a ropey cover to play with over a few weekends, and swap it over only when ready to go.
As delivered:
I took off the spark plug cover plate from the car, extracted a wizened central gasket and raided the top shelf of the garage for chemicals.
I had heard tales of paint strippers losing their fangs in recent years, but I was still surprised at the absence of impact to the sturdy Sweden paint! Neither Nitromors nor Diall made any real impression, even when left wrapped in clingfilm for days. In the words of a thousand radio presenters: "Don't touch that Diall!".
The only way to make progress was a wire brush dipped in the stuff and wire wool - it took and age, but I got there. Next time I'm opening a trade account with BASF.
The next weekend, a douse of engine cleaning foam on the insides (didn't really touch it but I made the effort) and a solid rinse left me with a presentable aluminium body.
I scoured this with some wet and dry to key the surface, remove any final ingrained specs and the aluminium that has oxidised, then let it dry for a good afternoon in the sun.
I'm no painter, but I thought you would all like to see the setup of a hangman's prop with a crowbar.
First coat naturall was followed by some high winds that ensured leaves, petals and particles dropped onto the fresh paint, so I joyfully removed them once dray and gave it another coat.
Now for 4 coats of satin black...
B'stard Child said:
Wouldn’t a crinkle finish look better and hide any imperfections in the finish?
Looking good whatever you do
I'll consider it an option... I'm just looking at the original and will report back. I also have 3 cans of satin already sitting about...Looking good whatever you do
NGRhodes said:
Looking good, did you consider putting in the dishwasher ?
I had not - I just cleaned and serviced the dishwasher over lockdown so I would likely resist the temptation. Its fine as is - nothing amiss, just brown on the inside!After the primer I considered the best method of realising the aluminium finish on the raised lettering and stripes. I decided to try sanding them with P60 at the primer stage, as it was inevitable that I would accidentally scratch the surrounding area somehow, then apply vaseline to the raised areas, apply the black and then peel away.
The sanding took a fair while to get an even finish and correct lustre to the aged aluminium, but it was in the right direction:
Applying the vaseline was a bit of a faff - no matter how careful I was some spilled over the sharp edges, so I had to wash any errant clumps away with a microfibre cloth soaked in warm sugar soap. I hoped that even if not 100% removed, it was at least diluted enough not to disrupt the black!
The black went on in 4 coats, the most annoying aspect being the absence of a booth of secure location, so ineviatbly some dust worked its way on. Sadly no plastic boxes in ChrisFix style were available to protect it, but I used watchmaker's tweezer to remove hair and insects when they landed.
Then the most difficult stage - removing the black with a Stanley blade. The sanding and the vaseline really helped, as without a smooth surface and the oil it would not have come away so easily. I did this about an hour after the last coat of black when the paint was still flexible.
After another careful wipe and degrease, three layers of clear lacquer.
Very happy with the result. Perhaps close to the factory finish, even if a little too glossy.
The spark plug cover needed a few more layer of lacquer to get to a matching level of finish, so that's completed this morning and still drying.
Then came the big moment - actually getting this little aluminium artwork on to the car!
I cleaned up the engine bay and surrounding area with Autoglym degreaser, the unwound the bolts, noting the effort level involved.
There were leaks along the bottom edge where the gasket had hardened. Once prised off, it was telling that the old gaskets were genuine Saab items and very brittle in places.
Cams, lobes, galleys and moving parts all in good order though. I can't believe this engine has done 190k - I really think its been either rebuilt in the last 80 or a replacement unit. The previous elderly owner has said some work was done in the last 10 years, but he couldn't fully remember the details.
A clean up of the area, plus use of aforementioned Stanley blade, readied the engine for its new smart top hat.
New gaskets added, final dust and clean underneath and a carefully coordinated ballet of bolt tightening later: its done. Phew.
I really must get back to rust rectification schedules now - plus and oil change after a few trips to purge any remaining tufts of wire wool or paint dust.
Hmm, that manifold looks like it could do with a coat or two of VHT...
The sanding took a fair while to get an even finish and correct lustre to the aged aluminium, but it was in the right direction:
Applying the vaseline was a bit of a faff - no matter how careful I was some spilled over the sharp edges, so I had to wash any errant clumps away with a microfibre cloth soaked in warm sugar soap. I hoped that even if not 100% removed, it was at least diluted enough not to disrupt the black!
The black went on in 4 coats, the most annoying aspect being the absence of a booth of secure location, so ineviatbly some dust worked its way on. Sadly no plastic boxes in ChrisFix style were available to protect it, but I used watchmaker's tweezer to remove hair and insects when they landed.
Then the most difficult stage - removing the black with a Stanley blade. The sanding and the vaseline really helped, as without a smooth surface and the oil it would not have come away so easily. I did this about an hour after the last coat of black when the paint was still flexible.
After another careful wipe and degrease, three layers of clear lacquer.
Very happy with the result. Perhaps close to the factory finish, even if a little too glossy.
The spark plug cover needed a few more layer of lacquer to get to a matching level of finish, so that's completed this morning and still drying.
Then came the big moment - actually getting this little aluminium artwork on to the car!
I cleaned up the engine bay and surrounding area with Autoglym degreaser, the unwound the bolts, noting the effort level involved.
There were leaks along the bottom edge where the gasket had hardened. Once prised off, it was telling that the old gaskets were genuine Saab items and very brittle in places.
Cams, lobes, galleys and moving parts all in good order though. I can't believe this engine has done 190k - I really think its been either rebuilt in the last 80 or a replacement unit. The previous elderly owner has said some work was done in the last 10 years, but he couldn't fully remember the details.
A clean up of the area, plus use of aforementioned Stanley blade, readied the engine for its new smart top hat.
New gaskets added, final dust and clean underneath and a carefully coordinated ballet of bolt tightening later: its done. Phew.
I really must get back to rust rectification schedules now - plus and oil change after a few trips to purge any remaining tufts of wire wool or paint dust.
Hmm, that manifold looks like it could do with a coat or two of VHT...
darkyoung1000 said:
That's looking very nice, I like the technique used for the cam cover, it's come up beautifully!
Thanks! This took far too much time, but I don't particularly want to do it again, and I'm never really fond of painting.finlo said:
Not picking holes but could you have not just sanded through the black and cut out all the faff with the vaseline?
That was the original plan, but I doubted my sanding skills and decided to get cut down to the tired aluminium, remove any dents, dings and raised areas with P60 at the primer stage to avoid damaging the black paint. I was very careful with the sanding block but still caused a fair few abrasions and dust dug itself into all sorts of nooks and crannies. With that done and the vasealine applied, the blade sliced through the black top layer with ease, as it has not adhered to the raised sections. It also meant there was no sanding dust while the paint was curing.I could have used masking and various other methods, but this was a fun little learning experience for me.
Mikeeb said:
From my experience I’d say that the internals look perfectly normal for a well maintained B20 with that mileage.
That's good to hear - thank you. Oil change in a few miles to ensure anything in the new cam cover it swept out!Cambs_Stuart said:
That cam cover looks great!
Much appreciated - just need the rest of the car to get up to standard now!ruggedscotty said:
now those last few photos were strangely satisfying indeed... well done that man
Thanks - here's a bonus with the spark plug cover now that its cured - I needed to match the lacquer layers up and it took a little longer:
bolidemichael said:
One thing that I missed, was the misfire on idle resolved by the old boy in Somerset (with the oddball orange convertible) or by the more local to you SAAB specialists?
I do think that a SAAB 900 convertible in yellow (monte carlo?) would be a wonderful summer car. One in Richmond Park caught my eye. Stunning. However, the threat/promise of continual maintenance would edge me towards a CLK, I fear. It's a shame, as Mrs Bolide's late father was the Operations Manager for SAAB Malaysia so there's a history of them in her family.
To be honest it still idles imperfectly, but Tony in Somerset set the timing correctly at 17 degrees, which really let the turbo fly as intended and transformed the car. He's retired now - in fact he turns away Qs when asked! Nelson in west London took care of the gearbox and a bit of the final adjustment once I replaced bits of the ignition and the Hall sensor. It still get grumbly when cold, and no amount of careful twiddling helps. I do think that a SAAB 900 convertible in yellow (monte carlo?) would be a wonderful summer car. One in Richmond Park caught my eye. Stunning. However, the threat/promise of continual maintenance would edge me towards a CLK, I fear. It's a shame, as Mrs Bolide's late father was the Operations Manager for SAAB Malaysia so there's a history of them in her family.
My next plan is to replace the exhaust entirely, as there are a handful of tiny leaks, and then tackle it with the Saab club wizards.
For a cabriolet - worth it to find a good one and pay more, but perhaps even a banana 9-3 might be easier on the worry scale?
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