Suspension Settings
Discussion
Standard geometry settings for the Tuscan:
•Front Caster Left 4°
•Right 4°
•Camber Left 0.75° negative
•Right 0.75° negative
•Toe Left 0° +/- 0.01°
•Total 0° - Parallel +/- 0.02°
•Rear Camber Left 0.75° negative
•Right 0.75° negative
•Toe-in Left 0.07° +/- 0.01°
•Right 0.07° +/- 0.01°
•Total 0.14° +/- 0.02°
•Front Caster Left 4°
•Right 4°
•Camber Left 0.75° negative
•Right 0.75° negative
•Toe Left 0° +/- 0.01°
•Total 0° - Parallel +/- 0.02°
•Rear Camber Left 0.75° negative
•Right 0.75° negative
•Toe-in Left 0.07° +/- 0.01°
•Right 0.07° +/- 0.01°
•Total 0.14° +/- 0.02°
I've come to this set up which I personally love.
Front 1.5 deg negative
Rear 2.5 deg negative
Castor- set to maximum it will go
Front toe 0
Rear toe in 24 mins total.
Raised rack by 10mm
The car handles very well on smooth roads/track. It does tramlines a bit on B roads but MUCH better than before and much better than the standard settings.
It's very very predictible.
I've tried various settings and this is what I like best. Initial understeer going into oversteer, of course power oversteer easy
My only problem is the back end sometimes feels a bit loose but I'm convinced its the tyres so that's next.
Oh and tyre wear is IMO fine, yes inner edges slightly more but in 7k miles maybe .5 difference side to side.
Front 1.5 deg negative
Rear 2.5 deg negative
Castor- set to maximum it will go
Front toe 0
Rear toe in 24 mins total.
Raised rack by 10mm
The car handles very well on smooth roads/track. It does tramlines a bit on B roads but MUCH better than before and much better than the standard settings.
It's very very predictible.
I've tried various settings and this is what I like best. Initial understeer going into oversteer, of course power oversteer easy
My only problem is the back end sometimes feels a bit loose but I'm convinced its the tyres so that's next.
Oh and tyre wear is IMO fine, yes inner edges slightly more but in 7k miles maybe .5 difference side to side.
Hi
Factory revised settings 2005
Front
Caster = 4 deg but you can get 5 by moving shims
Camber = 0.75 neg
Toe = 12 minutes toe in overall which is about 1.5mm
Rear
Camber = 1.4 degrees neg
Toe = 24minutes toe in overall which is about 3mm
M3Jappa has a trackday geo and if he sneezes going down motorway he will change 2 lanes. lol
Factory revised settings 2005
Front
Caster = 4 deg but you can get 5 by moving shims
Camber = 0.75 neg
Toe = 12 minutes toe in overall which is about 1.5mm
Rear
Camber = 1.4 degrees neg
Toe = 24minutes toe in overall which is about 3mm
M3Jappa has a trackday geo and if he sneezes going down motorway he will change 2 lanes. lol
m3jappa said:
You'd be surprised. 100+ with one finger on the wheel is stable. Not that I'd drive like that but just an example.
I think the monos have helped a lot tbh, very complient.
I now have an almost identical set-up to m3Jappa (except for only -2.0 deg rear camber) and it is great. Agree that driving 1 finger on the motorway would be no problem, although of course I would not condone it.I think the monos have helped a lot tbh, very complient.
From memory so may need some correction/update
1) Rear Toe :- bottom front wishbone mount has a treaded adjuster, undo the two lock nuts (one on the bush threaded bar and a large one on the wishbones threaded adjuster and turn the larger adjuster (threads into wishbone). Note these are often seized solid and may need serious heat or bits replaced to make them work.
2) Front camber - top balljoint/wishbone has slotted mounts loosen the balljoint/wishbone bolts slide balljoint towards engine to increase camber and away from engine to reduce. tighten the bolts.
Rear camber is probably the same technique (though never tried so cant be sure)
3) Front caster move shims from one side of top ball joint to the other side (between wishbone and balljoint, held in by the bolts loosened to do the camber, I recall the shims need to be to the front (of the car) to increase caster.
Front Toe would need to be checked adjusted after caster/camber changes
1) Rear Toe :- bottom front wishbone mount has a treaded adjuster, undo the two lock nuts (one on the bush threaded bar and a large one on the wishbones threaded adjuster and turn the larger adjuster (threads into wishbone). Note these are often seized solid and may need serious heat or bits replaced to make them work.
2) Front camber - top balljoint/wishbone has slotted mounts loosen the balljoint/wishbone bolts slide balljoint towards engine to increase camber and away from engine to reduce. tighten the bolts.
Rear camber is probably the same technique (though never tried so cant be sure)
3) Front caster move shims from one side of top ball joint to the other side (between wishbone and balljoint, held in by the bolts loosened to do the camber, I recall the shims need to be to the front (of the car) to increase caster.
Front Toe would need to be checked adjusted after caster/camber changes
Is there anywhere trusted in the SE that will make changes but work with you to come up with your preferred setup?
I recently had a full geo done (although they didn't use the settings I gave them which had a bit more camber) and on a decent surface the steering feel is great and the car feels planted. However if the road's bumpy then it's pretty uneasy and the rear end of the car in particular feels a bit wayward.
Settings are here:
Apart from the toe-in possibly being a little low then is there anything else shown that would make it slightly unstable? Car is a mk2 S on std shocks if that helps.
I recently had a full geo done (although they didn't use the settings I gave them which had a bit more camber) and on a decent surface the steering feel is great and the car feels planted. However if the road's bumpy then it's pretty uneasy and the rear end of the car in particular feels a bit wayward.
Settings are here:
Apart from the toe-in possibly being a little low then is there anything else shown that would make it slightly unstable? Car is a mk2 S on std shocks if that helps.
Super tyres in maldon essex are good and will work with you.
I'm not actually sure what some of those parameters mean tbh so can't help a lot, I'd also expect a shock upgrade will help a lot too I had gaz gold pro which were good then went gaz mono and the difference was night and day over the pros, compliance was the main benefit.
Tyre pressures are very sensitive too and may be making it feel unstable. IMO it's not as simple as saying x psi all round as all tyres are slightly different, for example my ad08 were at 20 psi all round, any more felt terrible. The federal 595rsr are on 24 front and 28 rear which indicate a softer sidewall but perform terribly with 20 psi in.
I'm not actually sure what some of those parameters mean tbh so can't help a lot, I'd also expect a shock upgrade will help a lot too I had gaz gold pro which were good then went gaz mono and the difference was night and day over the pros, compliance was the main benefit.
Tyre pressures are very sensitive too and may be making it feel unstable. IMO it's not as simple as saying x psi all round as all tyres are slightly different, for example my ad08 were at 20 psi all round, any more felt terrible. The federal 595rsr are on 24 front and 28 rear which indicate a softer sidewall but perform terribly with 20 psi in.
MrChips said:
Is there anywhere trusted in the SE that will make changes but work with you to come up with your preferred setup?
I recently had a full geo done (although they didn't use the settings I gave them which had a bit more camber) and on a decent surface the steering feel is great and the car feels planted. However if the road's bumpy then it's pretty uneasy and the rear end of the car in particular feels a bit wayward.
Settings are here:
Apart from the toe-in possibly being a little low then is there anything else shown that would make it slightly unstable? Car is a mk2 S on std shocks if that helps.
If you look at the factory settings from 2005 your car is not far off other than the rear toe which should be increased IMHO.I recently had a full geo done (although they didn't use the settings I gave them which had a bit more camber) and on a decent surface the steering feel is great and the car feels planted. However if the road's bumpy then it's pretty uneasy and the rear end of the car in particular feels a bit wayward.
Settings are here:
Apart from the toe-in possibly being a little low then is there anything else shown that would make it slightly unstable? Car is a mk2 S on std shocks if that helps.
I would also run both shims at the front on the caster to increase it to 5deg, it works i promise
PetrolHeadPete said:
Finally got around to the first step check on my front geo
Had nearly 9mm of front neg toe (measured from hub outer edges front to back)
Adjusted to nearer 1.8mm total. Wow, what a difference! So much more settled on bumpy b roads
Will check other settings next.
shockingHad nearly 9mm of front neg toe (measured from hub outer edges front to back)
Adjusted to nearer 1.8mm total. Wow, what a difference! So much more settled on bumpy b roads
Will check other settings next.
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