225's on the front?
Discussion
Hiya,
Just checking as all the tyre size threads I found in search were a little long in the tooth.
Are 225/40/18's on the front still the preferred route to reduce tram lining and give a bit of extra stability at speed?
I'm off to Center gravity next month and need to replace the Avon/cooper tyre disaster waiting to happen that's on the car at the moment so they can get it setup just right!
To be fair in the dry they've not been too bad, bit squirmy but I've yet to drive in the wet and I'm guessing they won't be a lot of fun..
Still tossing around ideas for the brand/model of tyre to stick on there but theres bags of info here and elsewhere about that! Just wanted to double check the size before I shell out!
Thanks!
Just checking as all the tyre size threads I found in search were a little long in the tooth.
Are 225/40/18's on the front still the preferred route to reduce tram lining and give a bit of extra stability at speed?
I'm off to Center gravity next month and need to replace the Avon/cooper tyre disaster waiting to happen that's on the car at the moment so they can get it setup just right!
To be fair in the dry they've not been too bad, bit squirmy but I've yet to drive in the wet and I'm guessing they won't be a lot of fun..
Still tossing around ideas for the brand/model of tyre to stick on there but theres bags of info here and elsewhere about that! Just wanted to double check the size before I shell out!
Thanks!
What have you got on the rear? 235/40 was the later Mk1 factory std but lots of people prefer 225/40, which is also nearer height wise to a 255/35 rear. I run 235/40 front and 255/35 rear and it handles really well, although I have the later wishbone and upright setup.
Actual widths vary between manufacturers as well for a given carcass size, just to make it even less clear, so one co's 225 may actually be wider than another's 235.
HTH
Actual widths vary between manufacturers as well for a given carcass size, just to make it even less clear, so one co's 225 may actually be wider than another's 235.
HTH
Basil Brush said:
I run 235/40 front and 255/35 rear and it handles really well, although I have the later wishbone and upright setup.
HTH
Apologies for digressing but did your car come with the later set up or is it something you swapped? If so was it worth doing? Are any other bits needed except the uprights and upper wishbone? Pm me the details if you want as it is a little off topic. HTH
Andy.
Andy_mr2sc said:
Basil Brush said:
I run 235/40 front and 255/35 rear and it handles really well, although I have the later wishbone and upright setup.
HTH
Apologies for digressing but did your car come with the later set up or is it something you swapped? If so was it worth doing? Are any other bits needed except the uprights and upper wishbone? Pm me the details if you want as it is a little off topic. HTH
Andy.
Andy_mr2sc said:
Apologies for digressing but did your car come with the later set up or is it something you swapped? If so was it worth doing? Are any other bits needed except the uprights and upper wishbone? Pm me the details if you want as it is a little off topic.
Andy.
I did it. I found a replacement later, wider steering rack when my og rack developed some play so decided to go the whole hog and swap to the later setup. I'd played around with flipping the track rods on my original setup to deal with bump steer but it was still a bit iffy. The later setup allows you to run more caster and correct the bump steer over a wider range of suspension movement by raising the rack about 8mm. It's made my car much more stable, especially under braking when it used to dart all over the place over bumps/camber changes.Andy.
Just what I wanted to hear. Looks like I'm going shopping! Am I right in saying the chassis points themselves are the same it's purely the parts you mention?
Not had the car long but while it has ultimately more grip than the previous chimaeras I have owned it feels like its going to kill me at anything over 100 if I run over so much as a leaf. Really frustrating because it feels like the chassis has something amazing to offer under these issues.
Not had the car long but while it has ultimately more grip than the previous chimaeras I have owned it feels like its going to kill me at anything over 100 if I run over so much as a leaf. Really frustrating because it feels like the chassis has something amazing to offer under these issues.
I've been looking at rack height and caster angle adjustments on here. Also I allegedly have the wrong tires (225/35 18) which are too low profile and stretched too far over the rims but any input on this is welcome.
I have the spacers which are meant to improve things. If I can tweak my current set up to work properly then that's a bonus but if it all needs throwing in the bin and replacing with a newer version then so be it. Apart from that I love it to bits so I will be sorting it out one way or the other!
I have the spacers which are meant to improve things. If I can tweak my current set up to work properly then that's a bonus but if it all needs throwing in the bin and replacing with a newer version then so be it. Apart from that I love it to bits so I will be sorting it out one way or the other!
225/35 are a bit stretched. It was the og Mk1 size before the factory swapped to GY F1s and started fitting 235/40 front & 245/40 rears.
You need to measure the bump steer to set the rack height properly but you could always try spacing it up by 5mm and see if it improves things.
The later bits are all bolt on as the chassis is the same. I machined the uprights myself so the rack and a couple of wishbones cost me just under 300 quid. I've also just swapped to an electric PS pump but haven't had chance to test the difference properly yet.
You need to measure the bump steer to set the rack height properly but you could always try spacing it up by 5mm and see if it improves things.
The later bits are all bolt on as the chassis is the same. I machined the uprights myself so the rack and a couple of wishbones cost me just under 300 quid. I've also just swapped to an electric PS pump but haven't had chance to test the difference properly yet.
235/40 seems to be the rubber of choice so they can go on the list. My chim liked Toyo T1rs. Do they work well on a tuscan or is there a preferred brand?
What machining did you do to the uprights? I have a workshop myself (cnc mill etc) so modifying would not be a problem as long as I know where.
What machining did you do to the uprights? I have a workshop myself (cnc mill etc) so modifying would not be a problem as long as I know where.
After an 11 hour day 
today at Center Gravity I now have very drivable, balanced, stable, non twichy, reduced tramlining, reduced bump steer, 'fast' mk1 Tuscan (2000)with 225/40 -18 fronts and 255/35 rears - albeit on SP12s with Avon ZZ3's.
Before today, although my tuscan was a 'good' one with a specialist TVR history and pampering and multiple geo set up it was still an 'intimidating' car to drive to drive fast ...although it was very stable at high speeds , under acceleration/decelaration I had to really hang onto the car ...a few times severe bump steer under heavy braking had made me nervous....and it was generally twitchy and required a wholebunch of attention to drive fast over 'normal' british roads.
By modifying the ride height and rake, balancing the corner weights (I have nitron coilovers)and optimising the toe, camber and castor (with a variety of old school engineering techniques (shims, elongating camber slots etc) I now have a transformed car.
The transformation is chaulk and cheese ...and i thought it was ok / good before (typical TVR early Tuscan handling I thought ...)..
Previously (like you?) i was considering tyre choice, raising the rack, all kinds of suspension changes and other quick fixes ...
I would suggest you wait for your session with Chris and Pete at CG...and then make any your further choices on tyres etc ....you may be a pleasently surprised(nay shocked) as i was .
I previously owned a Tuscan S, have a Boxster 987S as a 'reference' handling car (also set up by CG) and have raced MR2's around the UK's smooth race tracks ...
I'm really thrilled with the makeover carried out by Center gravity .....I'm not associated with them in any way ...just really appreciate their 'back to basics ' approach ..supported by their superb kit and absolute desire and dedication for perfection.
Hope it helps. I'm happy to share my settings if anyone wants them. The only downside is that the ride height back and front, has been raised on my car ...to allow for better handling . ..therefore the wheels don't fill the arches so much. However for me ..having a better handling car was the most important outcome.
As most TVR's tend to be unique in their own right , my solution may not apply ...but having CG set up your car is money well spent in my humble opinion.
Have fun
Matt
today at Center Gravity I now have very drivable, balanced, stable, non twichy, reduced tramlining, reduced bump steer, 'fast' mk1 Tuscan (2000)with 225/40 -18 fronts and 255/35 rears - albeit on SP12s with Avon ZZ3's.Before today, although my tuscan was a 'good' one with a specialist TVR history and pampering and multiple geo set up it was still an 'intimidating' car to drive to drive fast ...although it was very stable at high speeds , under acceleration/decelaration I had to really hang onto the car ...a few times severe bump steer under heavy braking had made me nervous....and it was generally twitchy and required a wholebunch of attention to drive fast over 'normal' british roads.
By modifying the ride height and rake, balancing the corner weights (I have nitron coilovers)and optimising the toe, camber and castor (with a variety of old school engineering techniques (shims, elongating camber slots etc) I now have a transformed car.
The transformation is chaulk and cheese ...and i thought it was ok / good before (typical TVR early Tuscan handling I thought ...)..
Previously (like you?) i was considering tyre choice, raising the rack, all kinds of suspension changes and other quick fixes ...
I would suggest you wait for your session with Chris and Pete at CG...and then make any your further choices on tyres etc ....you may be a pleasently surprised(nay shocked) as i was .
I previously owned a Tuscan S, have a Boxster 987S as a 'reference' handling car (also set up by CG) and have raced MR2's around the UK's smooth race tracks ...
I'm really thrilled with the makeover carried out by Center gravity .....I'm not associated with them in any way ...just really appreciate their 'back to basics ' approach ..supported by their superb kit and absolute desire and dedication for perfection.
Hope it helps. I'm happy to share my settings if anyone wants them. The only downside is that the ride height back and front, has been raised on my car ...to allow for better handling . ..therefore the wheels don't fill the arches so much. However for me ..having a better handling car was the most important outcome.
As most TVR's tend to be unique in their own right , my solution may not apply ...but having CG set up your car is money well spent in my humble opinion.
Have fun
Matt
Edited by mattus on Saturday 17th August 23:39
mattus said:
After an 11 hour day today at Center Gravity I now have very drivable, balanced, stable, non twichy, reduced tramlining, reduced bump steer, 'fast' mk1 Tuscan (2000)with 225/40 -18 fronts and 255/35 rears - albeit on SP12s with Avon ZZ3's.
Before today, although my tuscan was a 'good' one with a specialist TVR history and pampering and multiple geo set up it was still an 'intimidating' car to drive to drive fast ...although it was very stable at high speeds , under acceleration/decelaration I had to really hang onto the car ...a few times severe bump steer under heavy braking had made me nervous....and it was generally twitchy and required a wholebunch of attention to drive fast over 'normal' british roads.
By modifying the ride height and rake, balancing the corner weights (I have nitron coilovers)and optimising the toe, camber and castor (with a variety of old school engineering techniques (shims, elongating camber slots etc) I now have a transformed car.
The transformation is chaulk and cheese ...and i thought it was ok / good before (typical TVR early Tuscan handling I thought ...)..
Previously (like you?) i was considering tyre choice, raising the rack, all kinds of suspension changes and other quick fixes ...
I would suggest you wait for your session with Chris and Pete at CG...and then make any your further choices on tyres etc ....you may be a pleasently surprised(nay shocked) as i was .
I previously owned a Tuscan S, have a Boxster 987S as a 'reference' handling car (also set up by CG) and have raced MR2's around the UK's smooth race tracks ...
I'm really thrilled with the makeover carried out by Center gravity .....I'm not associated with them in any way ...just really appreciate their 'back to basics ' approach ..supported by their superb kit and absolute desire and dedication for perfection.
Hope it helps. I'm happy to share my settings if anyone wants them. The only downside is that the ride height back and front, has been raised on my car ...to allow for better handling . ..therefore the wheels don't fill the arches so much. However for me ..having a better handling car was the most important outcome.
As most TVR's tend to be unique in their own right , my solution may not apply ...but having CG set up your car is money well spent in my humble opinion.
Have fun
Matt
Pleased your happy today at Center Gravity I now have very drivable, balanced, stable, non twichy, reduced tramlining, reduced bump steer, 'fast' mk1 Tuscan (2000)with 225/40 -18 fronts and 255/35 rears - albeit on SP12s with Avon ZZ3's.Before today, although my tuscan was a 'good' one with a specialist TVR history and pampering and multiple geo set up it was still an 'intimidating' car to drive to drive fast ...although it was very stable at high speeds , under acceleration/decelaration I had to really hang onto the car ...a few times severe bump steer under heavy braking had made me nervous....and it was generally twitchy and required a wholebunch of attention to drive fast over 'normal' british roads.
By modifying the ride height and rake, balancing the corner weights (I have nitron coilovers)and optimising the toe, camber and castor (with a variety of old school engineering techniques (shims, elongating camber slots etc) I now have a transformed car.
The transformation is chaulk and cheese ...and i thought it was ok / good before (typical TVR early Tuscan handling I thought ...)..
Previously (like you?) i was considering tyre choice, raising the rack, all kinds of suspension changes and other quick fixes ...
I would suggest you wait for your session with Chris and Pete at CG...and then make any your further choices on tyres etc ....you may be a pleasently surprised(nay shocked) as i was .
I previously owned a Tuscan S, have a Boxster 987S as a 'reference' handling car (also set up by CG) and have raced MR2's around the UK's smooth race tracks ...
I'm really thrilled with the makeover carried out by Center gravity .....I'm not associated with them in any way ...just really appreciate their 'back to basics ' approach ..supported by their superb kit and absolute desire and dedication for perfection.
Hope it helps. I'm happy to share my settings if anyone wants them. The only downside is that the ride height back and front, has been raised on my car ...to allow for better handling . ..therefore the wheels don't fill the arches so much. However for me ..having a better handling car was the most important outcome.
As most TVR's tend to be unique in their own right , my solution may not apply ...but having CG set up your car is money well spent in my humble opinion.
Have fun
Matt
Edited by mattus on Saturday 17th August 23:39
Similar thread from me too http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
that the ride height back and front has been raised
This is very important, if suspension setting is too low how shall dampers work properly?
They need way to do their work. I have often raised the height of Porsches and my Tuscan because of too low Settings.After that suspension works much better.
And Tvrs do not have much way on the dampers, compared to other cars
But by the way can you pls send me the setup results?
What is price range of this 8 hours setup?
Twichiness while braking is most dangerous, even MK2 has this symtoms sometimes!
Uwe
This is very important, if suspension setting is too low how shall dampers work properly?
They need way to do their work. I have often raised the height of Porsches and my Tuscan because of too low Settings.After that suspension works much better.
And Tvrs do not have much way on the dampers, compared to other cars
But by the way can you pls send me the setup results?
What is price range of this 8 hours setup?
Twichiness while braking is most dangerous, even MK2 has this symtoms sometimes!
Uwe
Tuscanuwe said:
that the ride height back and front has been raised
This is very important, if suspension setting is too low how shall dampers work properly?
They need way to do their work. I have often raised the height of Porsches and my Tuscan because of too low Settings.After that suspension works much better.
And Tvrs do not have much way on the dampers, compared to other cars
But by the way can you pls send me the setup results?
What is price range of this 8 hours setup?
Twichiness while braking is most dangerous, even MK2 has this symtoms sometimes!
Uwe
PMThis is very important, if suspension setting is too low how shall dampers work properly?
They need way to do their work. I have often raised the height of Porsches and my Tuscan because of too low Settings.After that suspension works much better.
And Tvrs do not have much way on the dampers, compared to other cars
But by the way can you pls send me the setup results?
What is price range of this 8 hours setup?
Twichiness while braking is most dangerous, even MK2 has this symtoms sometimes!
Uwe
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