Starting problems, Essex V6
Discussion
My mistake on calling it a timing belt, that’s what you get for assuming.
I’ll leave the battery on charge and test it with a multimeter I found in our shed tomorrow, then check all the ground and live cables (am I just looking for heavy corrosion on the terminals or on the actual cables themselves?) and if it still doesn’t start even with starter fluid it is the starter motor?
I’ll leave the battery on charge and test it with a multimeter I found in our shed tomorrow, then check all the ground and live cables (am I just looking for heavy corrosion on the terminals or on the actual cables themselves?) and if it still doesn’t start even with starter fluid it is the starter motor?
I would slow down a bit, take this step by step, one thing at a time.
The car has been standing for a long time.
I'd check that the rubber fuel hoses don't look perished, if they do, renew them.
Make sure the battery is up to the job of turning the engine over.
Disconnect the king lead on the distributor or ignition coil and get it turning over before worrying about starting it.
The car has been standing for a long time.
I'd check that the rubber fuel hoses don't look perished, if they do, renew them.
Make sure the battery is up to the job of turning the engine over.
Disconnect the king lead on the distributor or ignition coil and get it turning over before worrying about starting it.
drcox99 said:
and if it still doesn’t start even with starter fluid it is the starter motor?
WOAH! SLOW DOWN THERE TIGER!Firstly, as above, personally I think you have a way to go yet!
As other as well as I have already said. Start with a good battery and then put it on charge & get it fully charged and tested.
While this is happening in the background EVERY major live & earth connection needs to be removed, cleaned, checked properly and refitted correctly.
Then (missed that one but luckily someone else didn't) check you have a good fuel supply, as in good hoses/pipes, drain carbs of old crap (they may need a proper clean/refurb even) check you have DEFINITELY got good fuel (a can & temporary hose is actually a good idea to start off with) and when you have all of these in place you may be ready to try to turn the engine over.
Either (as someone else said) remove the king lead from the coil or as I said remove the plugs to allow the engine to turn (if it does) enough to build up some oil pressure & get oil throughout the engine.
Then you can try to turn it over and see what happens.
DO NOT USE START SPRAY as you call it.
Re-commissioning an engine that has been stood for a long is not a 5-minute job! Just remember if it worked it wouldn't have been left stood.
markymarkthree said:
Does it have a separate starter solenoid ?
Also in your first post you mention a timing belt, that will be the fan belt.
I shall ask again, does it have a separate starter solenoid ?Also in your first post you mention a timing belt, that will be the fan belt.
If yes, that could be where the problem is and will require jumping/bridging .
Edited by markymarkthree on Friday 13th April 07:06
|https://thumbsnap.com/kyiAYR5w[/url]
king tight.Sardonicus said:
I hope that removed water pump wasn't through failure Essex motors can blow head gaskets at the rear of the block at a drop of a hat if provoked via over-heating 
that needs careful checking before recommissioning IMO, they are robust units but up to a point
That reminds me. that needs careful checking before recommissioning IMO, they are robust units but up to a point Mine did a hg & I replaced it with a gasket by a well known manufacturer. The block was fine & I had a local garage check the head which was also fine.
A couple of days after I'd done the job the owner's club magazine - Slice - dropped through the letter box. With the advice not to use anything but a genuine Ford hg.
Turned out to be quite correct, the hg I'd fitted lasted less than 500 miles before another hgf on the same bank.
Block & head checked again & fine.
Genuine Ford hg fitted in accordance with the Ford instructions & no further issues - was still fine when I sold the car a couple of years later, a decision I still regret.
The 'well known manufacturer' threatened to sue the RSSOC but dropped it after a request for information from members who had experienced problems.
I believe the Ford gasket had a sealant in the gasket.
paintman said:
Essex V6 doesn't have a timing belt.
The camshaft is gear driven off the crankshaft.
The camshaft gear is the larger of the two & will normally have either fibre or nylon teeth.
Fully charge your battery.
Check that any earth straps from engine to chassis are in good condition & that the earth wire from the battery is also in good condition & its connections are clean.
Same applies to the live wires.
Easiest way to check the earths is to connect a jump lead directly from the battery neg to a good clean point on the engine & then try turning it over again
Many Scimitar electrical system troubles are due to faulty earths as being a grp body much is earthed by wire.
When I had mine (1970 SE5) two of the most useful tools were a couple of 12' lengths of wire with a crocodile clip at each end.
If you haven't already I would suggest the RSSOC. Active owner's club, plenty of info & 'how tos' on the forums
https://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/
^ ^ Great stuff, You've just saved me from typing all of that up. Flat battery or Earths, no cambelt!!!The camshaft is gear driven off the crankshaft.
The camshaft gear is the larger of the two & will normally have either fibre or nylon teeth.
Fully charge your battery.
Check that any earth straps from engine to chassis are in good condition & that the earth wire from the battery is also in good condition & its connections are clean.
Same applies to the live wires.
Easiest way to check the earths is to connect a jump lead directly from the battery neg to a good clean point on the engine & then try turning it over again
Many Scimitar electrical system troubles are due to faulty earths as being a grp body much is earthed by wire.
When I had mine (1970 SE5) two of the most useful tools were a couple of 12' lengths of wire with a crocodile clip at each end.
If you haven't already I would suggest the RSSOC. Active owner's club, plenty of info & 'how tos' on the forums
https://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/
Edited by paintman on Thursday 12th April 22:31
paintman said:
Sardonicus said:
I hope that removed water pump wasn't through failure Essex motors can blow head gaskets at the rear of the block at a drop of a hat if provoked via over-heating that needs careful checking before recommissioning IMO, they are robust units but up to a point
That reminds me. that needs careful checking before recommissioning IMO, they are robust units but up to a point Mine did a hg & I replaced it with a gasket by a well known manufacturer. The block was fine & I had a local garage check the head which was also fine.
A couple of days after I'd done the job the owner's club magazine - Slice - dropped through the letter box. With the advice not to use anything but a genuine Ford hg.
Turned out to be quite correct, the hg I'd fitted lasted less than 500 miles before another hgf on the same bank.
Block & head checked again & fine.
Genuine Ford hg fitted in accordance with the Ford instructions & no further issues - was still fine when I sold the car a couple of years later, a decision I still regret.
The 'well known manufacturer' threatened to sue the RSSOC but dropped it after a request for information from members who had experienced problems.
I believe the Ford gasket had a sealant in the gasket.
drcox99 said:
The previous owner told me there was some sort of cut off switch or something but u can’t see anything of the sort on google or on the motor
There is your problem right there.It’s likely an owner fitted a cut of switch usually this is the power feed to the coil from the ignition switch. Check to see if a small wire to the coil is cut and the 2 ends sent to a switch in the cockpit usually hidden drivers side but easy to reach from drivers seat
I fitted a hidden switch to mine - early SE5 don't have a steering lock.
Done by fitting an on/off flick switch which I hid inside a convenient hole under the dash. In the off position it cut the ignition LT.
This will only stop the engine firing, all dash lights came on as normal & the engine will crank until the battery is flat.
Done by fitting an on/off flick switch which I hid inside a convenient hole under the dash. In the off position it cut the ignition LT.
This will only stop the engine firing, all dash lights came on as normal & the engine will crank until the battery is flat.
Gassing Station | Engines & Drivetrain | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff