Wing mirror arm and head separation
Discussion
Like many my nearly 10 year old Vantage has the dreaded corrosion on both arms. Anyway, thought I’d get round to fixing it and I’m doing the first door.
Having had the door card off previously I thought “how hard can it be to take. The mirror arm off and do a proper job?”
Well it turns out quite hard as you need a very small T20 driver to take out a bolt fastening the door window support to the mirror assembly, and that took some time!
Anyway, I’ve got it off the car and have been beavering away removing the corrosion and old paint.
One thing has Me stumped which is how to remove the mirror head from the arm? I’d like to do that I’d its straightforward as it will make it easier to paint. I have the head itself off the end of the arm but can’t see a way to detach it complete, the cable is stopping that.
How do I do get the cable off please, I can’t see any obvious bolts or fasteners?
Also. On reassembly what do I use to reseal the quarter light glass and rubber cheater into place, the manual doesn’t mention anything but I presume I’ll need something? At the moment it looks like some form of rubberised glue or something was used during manufacturer, anybody else done this and if so what did you do please?
Picture of said arm and mirror head :
Having had the door card off previously I thought “how hard can it be to take. The mirror arm off and do a proper job?”
Well it turns out quite hard as you need a very small T20 driver to take out a bolt fastening the door window support to the mirror assembly, and that took some time!
Anyway, I’ve got it off the car and have been beavering away removing the corrosion and old paint.
One thing has Me stumped which is how to remove the mirror head from the arm? I’d like to do that I’d its straightforward as it will make it easier to paint. I have the head itself off the end of the arm but can’t see a way to detach it complete, the cable is stopping that.
How do I do get the cable off please, I can’t see any obvious bolts or fasteners?
Also. On reassembly what do I use to reseal the quarter light glass and rubber cheater into place, the manual doesn’t mention anything but I presume I’ll need something? At the moment it looks like some form of rubberised glue or something was used during manufacturer, anybody else done this and if so what did you do please?
Picture of said arm and mirror head :
Edited by steveatesh on Tuesday 18th June 16:07
same on db9 , i think they feed the wires then put the plug on, i did have a look at dismantling the plug but in the end i did what youve done and bagged it up to paint the stem, just watch out when you paint it as any paint that drys on plastic bag if you move it the paint flakes off the bag and i guarantee it will land on your lovely wet paint !!
Update on this, having completed one mirror arm with some tips if anybody is thinking about it:
You will need a T20 torx screwdriver for the four screws at the bottom of the door card.
You will need a T25 tor’s screwdriver, narrow shaft, for the screw hidden behind the window rubber on the window support.
Don’t think that when your top coat paint is dry it is safe to turn it over and do the other side as when you put it down it will inevitably stick and pull a bit off requiring repainting.
Allow yourself a couple hours of trying to screw back in the hidden screw before realising it is easier just to pull the bloody rubber seal off the support to access it. Even then it’s still fiddly.
Make sure you have a long magnetic rod to find the hidden screw when it drops down inside the door because you took the rubber seal off.
Allow yourself a couple hours of rattling the magnetic rod in the door to find the dropped screw because you can’t see diddly squat in there.
Assemble the bottom plate back onto the arm before you put it back on the door, that will save you having to take it off again when you realise that you can’t put the bottom plates back on when the arm is in situ, having to repeat the damned fiddly hidden screw thing.
Honest, it’s easy............
You will need a T20 torx screwdriver for the four screws at the bottom of the door card.
You will need a T25 tor’s screwdriver, narrow shaft, for the screw hidden behind the window rubber on the window support.
Don’t think that when your top coat paint is dry it is safe to turn it over and do the other side as when you put it down it will inevitably stick and pull a bit off requiring repainting.
Allow yourself a couple hours of trying to screw back in the hidden screw before realising it is easier just to pull the bloody rubber seal off the support to access it. Even then it’s still fiddly.
Make sure you have a long magnetic rod to find the hidden screw when it drops down inside the door because you took the rubber seal off.
Allow yourself a couple hours of rattling the magnetic rod in the door to find the dropped screw because you can’t see diddly squat in there.
Assemble the bottom plate back onto the arm before you put it back on the door, that will save you having to take it off again when you realise that you can’t put the bottom plates back on when the arm is in situ, having to repeat the damned fiddly hidden screw thing.
Honest, it’s easy............
Hello PatCub
Yes, I had indeed. I managed to finally get the pins out about an hour ago. I've been dancing a jig since. I came back to the forum to delete my plea for help and missed the fact that you had replied to my message - sorry about that.
For others that may find themselves in a similar position, the 'magic' (for me) to de-pinning the connector was as follows:
1. You de-pin via the LARGER of the two holes on the face of the connector
2. Slide your de-pin tool (whatever it may be) along the top of the pin inside the connector, then when you meet resistance, flick up wards. This will push a clip inside the connector out of the way and that allows the pin to be withdrawn
nb: DON'T pull too hard on the pin wire. It's not necessary. Once you 'flick' correctly, the pin will withdraw with ease
I hate to wrte this, but there's a 'feel' to how this is done. Once you've got the first pin out, the rest are a doddle.
Oh, and take a LOT OF PICS. Because once you're done, you'll need to put it all back together again.
Did I mention taking a LOT OF PICS?
For the more technical among you, the connector make is 'AMP'. I misread this at first, thinking it was a reference to the amperage the connector could accept <eye roll>. You can buy specific de-pin tools for AMP connectors but AMP make many different types. I just used one of the cheapies from eBay.
If anyone is interested, I still have the passenger side mirror stalk to remove and will create a better 'How To' with pics. Just indicate whether this idea would provide value for you.
Yes, I had indeed. I managed to finally get the pins out about an hour ago. I've been dancing a jig since. I came back to the forum to delete my plea for help and missed the fact that you had replied to my message - sorry about that.
For others that may find themselves in a similar position, the 'magic' (for me) to de-pinning the connector was as follows:
1. You de-pin via the LARGER of the two holes on the face of the connector
2. Slide your de-pin tool (whatever it may be) along the top of the pin inside the connector, then when you meet resistance, flick up wards. This will push a clip inside the connector out of the way and that allows the pin to be withdrawn
nb: DON'T pull too hard on the pin wire. It's not necessary. Once you 'flick' correctly, the pin will withdraw with ease
I hate to wrte this, but there's a 'feel' to how this is done. Once you've got the first pin out, the rest are a doddle.
Oh, and take a LOT OF PICS. Because once you're done, you'll need to put it all back together again.
Did I mention taking a LOT OF PICS?
For the more technical among you, the connector make is 'AMP'. I misread this at first, thinking it was a reference to the amperage the connector could accept <eye roll>. You can buy specific de-pin tools for AMP connectors but AMP make many different types. I just used one of the cheapies from eBay.
If anyone is interested, I still have the passenger side mirror stalk to remove and will create a better 'How To' with pics. Just indicate whether this idea would provide value for you.
tom-4hcey said:
Yes that will be great if you can. I would like to remove mine at some point and have the stalks powder coated.
Many Thanks
My technician baulked at the prospect of de-pinning the connector (DB9) so the units were sprayed instead of powder coated. Excellent result though.Many Thanks
AreThereAnyNamesLeft said:
For the more technical among you, the connector make is 'AMP'. I misread this at first, thinking it was a reference to the amperage the connector could accept <eye roll>. You can buy specific de-pin tools for AMP connectors but AMP make many different types. I just used one of the cheapies from eBay.
If anyone is interested, I still have the passenger side mirror stalk to remove and will create a better 'How To' with pics. Just indicate whether this idea would provide value for you.
Good job, perfect timing. If anyone is interested, I still have the passenger side mirror stalk to remove and will create a better 'How To' with pics. Just indicate whether this idea would provide value for you.
Please could you link the exact type of de-pin tool, it will save others, including me a bunch of research hassle.
As for a guide, yes please this is one of the jobs I have to do and I’m not thrilled. If you want a long lasting result I’ve been told you need to acid etch then powder coat.
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