V8 Vantage on Axle stands
Discussion
I've been pondering this one for a while.
Yesterday I cleaned and checked the brakes on my car.
I ended up having to do one corner at a time.
Quote from other thread;
"I got mine on a trolley jack by using some caravan/motorhome levelling ramps first.
A few points to note;
The rear jacking points are about 1/4 size of the fronts. frown
I ended up using an ice hockey puck to spread the load and also removed one bolt from the rear under tray to get more area.
Once on the jacks it is almost impossible to get axle stands under for three reasons.
1) There is no central jacking point at the rear frown
2) The front central point is hidden by the undertray and confusingly the manual warns it should not be jacked up with this removed.
3) With the jack in place there isn't enough space to get an axle stand in.
I'm going to have a think about this!
There may be a way to do it with a bottle jack a large metal plate and slip the axle in along side confused"
Hope that helps!
Yesterday I cleaned and checked the brakes on my car.
I ended up having to do one corner at a time.
Quote from other thread;
"I got mine on a trolley jack by using some caravan/motorhome levelling ramps first.
A few points to note;
The rear jacking points are about 1/4 size of the fronts. frown
I ended up using an ice hockey puck to spread the load and also removed one bolt from the rear under tray to get more area.
Once on the jacks it is almost impossible to get axle stands under for three reasons.
1) There is no central jacking point at the rear frown
2) The front central point is hidden by the undertray and confusingly the manual warns it should not be jacked up with this removed.
3) With the jack in place there isn't enough space to get an axle stand in.
I'm going to have a think about this!
There may be a way to do it with a bottle jack a large metal plate and slip the axle in along side confused"
Hope that helps!

Jesus there's not a lot of that left!
It helps a lot.
You can see the size of the rear jacking points is too small for the lift so they have lifted the rear from the beam that runs the lenght of the tub.
Not sure how strong that is? I have tried this and the beam flexes a bit

I guess you could jack up from the beam with a load spreading plate and put the axles stands where the jacking points are

Might try that!
I spoke to Rick a few minutes ago and he said he'll hopefuly post up some pictures later today of where to place axles stands on the front and rear subframes 
It is best that the undertrays are removed for locating the stands
I can't see the image GlynMo has posted, work firewall blocks images on forums being downloaded
John

It is best that the undertrays are removed for locating the stands
I can't see the image GlynMo has posted, work firewall blocks images on forums being downloaded

John
Token Jock said:
It is best that the undertrays are removed for locating the stands
Problem is the Owners manual says;"If this vehicle is to be raised using a vehicle jack ensure the
following jacking points are use."
The workshop manual is even clearer about which jacking points to use

"This vehicle jacking points are at positions shown.
May also be jacked on the front subframe front crossmember
Always use a jack with a rubber contact pad. Avoid use of jacks with sharp contact pads which would damage floor pan Always chock the opposite road wheels as well as applying the handbrake when using a hydraulic jack.
To prevent body distortion, avoid single point or one side
jacking with the tunnel shear panel removed.
Lifting
Workshop Hoist
Use of a workshop hoist is recommended for all operations
where vehicles must be raised. Follow manufacturers instructions. If using an adjustable arm type, ensure lifting pads are correctly positioned at the four jacking points before lifting.
Workshop Jack
To avoid any danger of bodywork damage when using a hydraulic jack, the vehicle must only be lifted at the jacking points.
Stands
When carrying out work (other than a wheel change) which requires a wheel to be raised, a stand must be used, located at the jacking point, to provide a secure support for the vehicle."
I'd be guide by others expertise, but I'm concerned about jack up each corner to get it on axles stands when the undertray is removed

Edited by mikey k on Tuesday 3rd May 18:44
mikey k said:
Problem is the Owners manual says;
...Workshop Jack
To avoid any danger of bodywork damage when using a hydraulic jack, the vehicle must only be lifted at the jacking points.
Stands
When carrying out work (other than a wheel change) which requires a wheel to be raised, a stand must be used, located at the jacking point, to provide a secure support for the vehicle."
This is the same dilemma when jacking DB7s: If you have to jack at the jacking point, how do you then locate the stand at the jacking point?...Workshop Jack
To avoid any danger of bodywork damage when using a hydraulic jack, the vehicle must only be lifted at the jacking points.
Stands
When carrying out work (other than a wheel change) which requires a wheel to be raised, a stand must be used, located at the jacking point, to provide a secure support for the vehicle."
Edited by mikey k on Tuesday 3rd May 18:44
The tunnel shear panel is not the same as the undertray. You can jack up a corner of the car w/o distorting the body if you don't remove the shear panel.
They want you to use the jacking points to avoid body PANEL damage, not body DISTORTION. As long as you are careful about the body panels (which wrap under the car), you can find other places to jack a corner while leaving the jacking point free to place a jackstand.
Get a camera and take a bunch of photos under the car as best you can to odentify the size and locations of various lifting points...that's what I ended up doing.
They want you to use the jacking points to avoid body PANEL damage, not body DISTORTION. As long as you are careful about the body panels (which wrap under the car), you can find other places to jack a corner while leaving the jacking point free to place a jackstand.
Get a camera and take a bunch of photos under the car as best you can to odentify the size and locations of various lifting points...that's what I ended up doing.
Sorry this has taken so long to reply, What we have been doing is finding safe points to put the stands where removal of the under trays was not required, there are only a few points where the under trays are flat against the structure underneath that can support the vehicle, always remember to slacken all wheel nuts prior to lifting and just nipping up the wheel nuts and correctly torquing when back on the floor, also opening doors etc should not be attempted once raised, this is how we did it but great care must be taken as the risk to the car and yourself could be catastrophic,
This first picture is the car fully supported on the axle stands this was left for a period of a few hours and allowed us to remove the wheels and refit,

These are the four points used,
OSF

NSF

OSR

NSR

there is differences in under trays dependant on year put the actual location is the same I hope this helps and you can see from the images there is no damage to the under trays,
This first picture is the car fully supported on the axle stands this was left for a period of a few hours and allowed us to remove the wheels and refit,

These are the four points used,
OSF

NSF

OSR

NSR

there is differences in under trays dependant on year put the actual location is the same I hope this helps and you can see from the images there is no damage to the under trays,
mikey k said:

I presume there is no issue jacking from those points and putting the stands on the sill jacking points for a bit more stability.

mikey k said:

I presume there is no issue jacking from those points and putting the stands on the sill jacking points for a bit more stability.

Rick you are a legend.
I was battling with the same problem ealier this year. Life will be somewhat easier now.
I can feel some bright yellow survey paint coming on!
Don't EVER jack the car on the chassis rail that runs front to rear towards the middle of the car on both sides. It's part of the crash structure and not designed to take the weight of the vehicle. It's designed to distort (ie, it's a weak spot deliberately!) in a particular fashion in an impact and if it's been dented or bent by a jack/ramp/axle stand it won't perform as intended. Only jack the car at the points on the sill edge where there is a cut out and then slide and axle stand under the subframe. It is harder on a roadster but there are some suspension mounting points that will do the job. If you are unsure let an Aston trained tech do it for you. You don't won't to have to have the chassis rails replced because of someone elses carelessness.
may i refer you to this page please have a look at the image, and the lifting points used by Aston Martins own Workshop,
http://site.astonmartin.com/eng/worksservice/servi...
http://site.astonmartin.com/eng/worksservice/servi...
rick-derby- said:
may i refer you to this page please have a look at the image, and the lifting points used by Aston Martins own Workshop,
http://site.astonmartin.com/eng/worksservice/servi...
Awesome reply, Rick!http://site.astonmartin.com/eng/worksservice/servi...
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