Help with Dashboard Lights - What do they mean?!?!

Help with Dashboard Lights - What do they mean?!?!

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jeboa

Original Poster:

541 posts

276 months

Monday 25th November 2002
quotequote all
I'm in a little confusion over the lights on my dash.

I have a 95 M 4.0HC.

On the far right is a small black plastic circle with a red and a green LED in (both rectangular). The green one has started lighting in the mornings, ice warning??

In between the Speedo/Tacho there are three LED's.

I know the top one is the alarm.

I haven't a clue on the middle one.

And at the bottom is a red LED. This is visible at night sometimes, the higher the RPM the brighter it glows. The oil pressure is fine (30-45), and level is correct. Any ideas?

Also my headlight/foglight lamps are intermittent - are these easy to get to - I don't want to chip that walnut lacquer.

I'd appreciate any help, the dashboard layout in the manual doesn't match with my car.

Many thanks,

Martin

simpo one

89,090 posts

280 months

Tuesday 26th November 2002
quotequote all
No handbook then?

pbrettle

3,280 posts

298 months

Tuesday 26th November 2002
quotequote all
Annotated answers below:

>> I have a 95 M 4.0HC.

Mines a 94 4.0HC

>> On the far right is a small black plastic circle with a red and a green LED in (both rectangular). The green one has started lighting in the mornings, ice warning??

Err, not sure, but the far right is the indicator lights - dont ask me why there are there! Underneath will be the hazzard warning light button. Ice warning light seems to be the likely candidate for the other one - but I dont have one so cant comment.

>> In between the Speedo/Tacho there are three LED's.
>> I know the top one is the alarm.

Yes, flashing red light for when the alarm is on

>> I haven't a clue on the middle one.

My guess is the ignition warning light - orange / yellow if my memory serves me right. This will be ON when you have the ignition on, but will go OFF when the engine is running. Anything else indicates there is a problem with the electrics somewhere.

>> And at the bottom is a red LED. This is visible at night sometimes, the higher the RPM the brighter it glows. The oil pressure is fine (30-45), and level is correct. Any ideas?

Oil pressure should be taken as a guide only. Its not calibrated and varies from car to car. As long as the oil pressure is consistent then things are fine. Any drop from the norm means you need to top up or check the oil. Dont know what the bottom red light is though - though all cars have the two lights for the ignition on / engine on. Can someone else say what it really is.... Charge for the battery perhaps...?!?!?

>> Also my headlight/foglight lamps are intermittent - are these easy to get to - I don't want to chip that walnut lacquer.

No, the buttons are not easy to get to - have chipped my wood. Best bet is to remove the stereo and all the gubbins and then get to the panel that way. There are a couple of screws there and once you get them all it does just pop out. Mine suffered from the warning lights for the panel not working so some judicious spraying of WD40 sorted that out - might be worth a squirt...

Any problems with the light buttons not working is a problem you do need to sort out. Could be the connections in the headlight section itself, so WD40 might help there too...

>> I'd appreciate any help, the dashboard layout in the manual doesn't match with my car.

They all do that sir....

Cheers,

Paul

kenny chim 4

1,604 posts

273 months

Wednesday 27th November 2002
quotequote all

simpo one said: No handbook then?


Sorry, but I wanted to raise this thread further up the line again.
I read Jeboa's question last night (Mon) & waited to see the responses today cos I've got similar problems (had them since my 'too cool' posting!). Noteably the lowest (red) dash light flickering now & again and low, or NO, readings on the oil gauge when I let the clutch out -after getting 30psi on idle.
Handbook states that this lamp is the oil warning indicator but when it does come on, by turning off the fan etc, it goes out suggesting this is a low battery return warning.
I appreciate that wet weather may have affected the oil pressure sender etc. but- and here's my question (finally!!)- when I start the car and remove the oil filler cap, there are no beads of oil coming up through the filler neck- plus the inside of the cap is dry and I'm worried that the rockers are being starved (tappits are a bit audible). There was a full service carried out 2 months ago and the oil on the dipstick is full and clear- so is it likely that the (non TVR) indie fitted a new oil pump without realising that it's not self-primed?
I've booked it in with them to have a look at under the (limited) warranty this Monday but, fore armed etc...
Any advice WBMA

shpub

8,507 posts

287 months

Wednesday 27th November 2002
quotequote all
If you have been driving with no oil pressure for a couple of months then you will probably need a new engine. Just pray it is a an electrical fault.

Steve

kenny chim 4

1,604 posts

273 months

Wednesday 27th November 2002
quotequote all

shpub said: If you have been driving with no oil pressure for a couple of months then you will probably need a new engine. Just pray it is a an electrical fault.

Steve

Thanks for the response Steve and I appreciate the above.
Yes, I'm praying it's an electrical fault but, if it's not, I know all but the top parts of the V8 have been getting lubricated- maybe just the rockers being starved a bit.
Can I ask (knowing that these Rover units do run on a fairly low pressure), should I see beads of oil trying to escape the filler neck on idle? Or, considering the depth of the engine, does capilliary action carry fluid to the top parts? There is fresh oil around the lip of the neck which is obviously above those rockers.
Still, hopefully the dealer will sort it out on Monday. Meanwhile I'm tip-toeing around and watching the dash!
Thanks again, Kenny

spaceman

43 posts

278 months

Wednesday 27th November 2002
quotequote all

kenny chim 4 said:

simpo one said: No handbook then?


problems (had them since my 'too cool' posting!). Noteably the lowest (red) dash light flickering now & again and low, or NO, readings on the oil gauge when I let the clutch out -after getting 30psi on idle.





Try checking the connection to the fuel pressure sensor. The sensor on mine had a loose spade connector, weeks of worrying and driving very steadily turned out to be a loose conector that was coming off when ever I floored it, giving the impression of a drop in oil pressure.
Its an easy check & fix so worth a look

Cheers
Space

geordielad

10 posts

272 months

Wednesday 27th November 2002
quotequote all
My 95 Chim is the same as yours, the handbook doesnt match the car at all. The layout of the dash is totally different.

In the middle of the Speedo and the rev counter are 3 lights, top one is red, which is the alarm. Next is amber, which is Oil pressure and bottom one is Ignition. (Even though the book says otherwise!)

And one nice little trick mine threw at me was, one day the Oil warning light illuminated. First though is "Oh Shit!" Pulled over and called the AA.

Took it to the dealers next day and they said the ignition and oil light was reversed. Apparently done at the factory. Was an alternator and not the oil pressure.

kenny chim 4

1,604 posts

273 months

Wednesday 27th November 2002
quotequote all
I've kind've commandeered this thread- sorry Jerboa.
Space- I will check that out but, again, should I expect to see oil jumping nicely through the filler with the cap off? To be honest. that's my main worry as I realise the guage can be inaccurate.
Paul, if my warning lamp set-up is the same as yours, then it'll be a relief! Electrics I can cope with, oil (lifeblood) is a different matter.
Thanks for the posts...
Kenny

shpub

8,507 posts

287 months

Friday 29th November 2002
quotequote all
Yes you can if the revs are higher enough but if the revs are high and there is no oil, good bye engine and this can happen in seconds if you have real bad karma. So there is no low risk technique other than a gauge. Capillary action is not existent as they need positive pressure to lubricate.

The only test is with a mechanical guage I am afraid.

The car should be be driven at all. It is probably an electrical fault but are you willing to risk £7000 for a new engine?

No oil pressure, don't drive the car.

Steve

>> Edited by shpub on Friday 29th November 08:38