S Series Bonnet Hinge Mod - Open Wide

S Series Bonnet Hinge Mod - Open Wide

Author
Discussion

Oldred_V8S

3,449 posts

182 months

Saturday 6th August 2016
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Bump for Richard K.

How are these bonnet mods coming along Rich? wink

Kitchski

6,142 posts

175 months

Sunday 7th August 2016
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Oldred_V8S said:
Bump for Richard K.

How are these bonnet mods coming along Rich? wink
Erm.....about as quickly as my car frown

greymrj

3,062 posts

148 months

Saturday 13th July
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Another method: I have the dimensions for the distance to move the pivot point forward and slightly upward. No mods or cuts to bonnet. (Bonnet at the time was being prepped for painting and the rad was out). Easily adjusted front to back, side to side and to allow for some vertical adjustment to get best bonnet alignment. In view of comments I made on facebook, the ply webs on my bonnet were not the same distance from the wheelarch edge (surprised??!!) there was a whole 45mm difference to allow for but the side to side adjustment did cope. The key point for me was to get the mounting in line with the ply web to cut out the twisting moment that side mounting causes. As we know, ply webs have failed because of that twist. The two 'eye' bolts are the originals turned round (and more neatly welded!!)










The one thing not shown is that I forgot to photograph it with the limit link in place. The bonnet will open to a limit point at which it is 1" clear or the ground. I wouldn't leave the bonnet like that, there is far too much leverage in any wind, I have a telescopic strut (modified gas strut without the gas!) that clips in when the bonnet is open, can also have the bonnet 'half' open if it is really windy.

GreenV8S

27,309 posts

228 months

Saturday 13th July
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I like the way you attached that to the ply web.

Bobhon

981 posts

123 months

Saturday 13th July
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That looks pretty good, would you have any dimensioned drawings knocking about that I could use to recreate these for my V8S. Or are you able to make up another set that I could buy off you?

Bob

Top Gear TVR

Original Poster:

2,200 posts

98 months

Sunday 14th July
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You can see my brackets in this image. They haven inserted the wrong way around to stop us bashing our ankles during the chassis rebuild work but the two brackets are clearly visible. No chassis mods are required so you can revert to the original nasty set up if so desired.

greymrj

3,062 posts

148 months

Sunday 14th July
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I cant imagine anyone going back to the old system once they have a wider opening bonnet can you! I had no qualms at all about cutting off the 'vertical' box section at each mounting to get access to the horizontal tube. On many cars which have not had any mods that end piece will be a bit of a tatty mess by now anyway!
Your later chassis is slightly different in that the horizontal rail does not come right across as it does on the earlier S, but it doesn't affect my design. The only issue would be if the chassis rail is at a different height on the V8, but that is easy to cope with by altering the position of the plate onto which I have welded the forward facing tube.

Top Gear TVR

Original Poster:

2,200 posts

98 months

Sunday 14th July
quotequote all
Top Gear TVR said:
You can see my brackets in this image. They have been inserted the wrong way around to stop us bashing our ankles during the chassis rebuild work but the two brackets are clearly visible. No chassis mods are required so you can revert to the original nasty set up if so desired.

Ceejay73

478 posts

172 months

Sunday 14th July
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Nice job Richard. I wondered why your bonnet didn't need altering and on closer inspection yours has two steps moulded into the lower valance which my S3 didn't have. After trimming mine now is a similar shape to yours. Maybe a difference between earlier and later mouldings? Definitely easier and nicer not having to cut.

To keep all the varying ideas together, a link to my solution Here

Cheers,
Carl.

Edited by Ceejay73 on Sunday 14th July 12:20

GreenV8S

27,309 posts

228 months

Sunday 14th July
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It seems pointless on the standard setup because access is tough enough as it is, but I'm wondering about the feasibility of some sort of over-center strut on each side to lock the bonnet open with the wider opening design. Anyone seen anything like that? Presumably the original stay is no use, and it's in the way anyway so I'm wondering about something further forward.

Top Gear TVR

Original Poster:

2,200 posts

98 months

Sunday 14th July
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Mine will happily rest vertically without a strut

GreenV8S

27,309 posts

228 months

Sunday 14th July
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Top Gear TVR said:
Mine will happily rest vertically without a strut
When it's windy?

Ceejay73

478 posts

172 months

Sunday 14th July
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Peter, I believe some have fitted gas struts and the brackets on mine have little "ears" at the top with pilot holes intended for just this. I have also wondered if locking arms ala MGB (just happens I have one in the garage) maybe better as the bonnet is a large area if there is a breeze, maybe a little safer. I have found though as TGT has that my bonnet stands open with no help if there is no wind and so due to this and my laziness it is on the around to it list. I still have the original prop fitted if I need it.

Cheers,

Carl.


ETA: Sorry, cross post hence both commenting about wind. errrr breeze (sorry again but wind= childish hehe )

Edited by Ceejay73 on Sunday 14th July 17:24

phillpot

15,159 posts

127 months

Sunday 14th July
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Maybe it depends just where you end up outting the pivot point but my bonnet was almost impossible to lift once I'd done my hinges, gas struts were definitely required!


Or it could be that I'm just a weedy little old man scratchchin

Top Gear TVR

Original Poster:

2,200 posts

98 months

Sunday 14th July
quotequote all
GreenV8S said:
Top Gear TVR said:
Mine will happily rest vertically without a strut
When it's windy?
Yeah, force 9 maybe not but otherwise, yes

Top Gear TVR

Original Poster:

2,200 posts

98 months

Sunday 14th July
quotequote all

Top Gear TVR

Original Poster:

2,200 posts

98 months

Sunday 14th July
quotequote all



[url]
|https://thumbsnap.com/pgBWnCdV[/url]

Top Gear TVR

Original Poster:

2,200 posts

98 months

Sunday 14th July
quotequote all
Edge of bonnet rests on chassis. Not going anywhere, it’s about 6” ‘over centre’ at the highest point so pretty secure unless blowing a gale.

v8s4me

6,353 posts

163 months

Sunday 14th July
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Is there a general rule here? Along the lines of, (i) the further forward the pivot point is on the web the more the bonnet will open (ii) the lower the pivot point, the higher off the ground the nose will be when open?

Which method avoids cutting the lower lip of the bonnet on a V8S?

greymrj

3,062 posts

148 months

Monday 15th July
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Not as simple as that Joe, I put it on the drawing board and tested the options (someone younger who can use CAD would be able to do it that way). Too far forward or too high or low just creates other problems. Plus the cars vary, surprise surprise. I got people to measure the position of the existing pivot point relative to the ground to see how much they varied and took some dimensions of different bonnets to see how they varied. I tried to find a 'sweet spot' which would work for the range of dimensions I found. I also tried to find a bonnet opening angle which would create the best access without creating problems with clearance.
I have just checked the drawings. I came up with an optimum position, that moved the pivot point 59mm forward and 12mm higher. At that position the pivot point is 9mm behind the plywood web (which allows the pivot to be in line with the web to remove side loads) that gave me a 12mm pivot bolt in a 2mm wall tube with 1mm clearance. That position gave me 70 degree opening (almost double the original) and 25mm clearance to the road with the bonnet open.

More photos (finished and with the stop link in place, that may explain the piece of metal that appears to be doing nothing on the earlier photos, and with the telescopic safety strut in place)