Discussion
Took the old fuel pump off today to fit the new one, which was a much smaller diameter ( ordered wrong one) , so ordered another with the exact same ref number as original.
Old one had a small hole in the body just where the fuel pipe connects, so must have been sucking air instead of drawing fuel especially as it has an additional filter after the tank now. I could see the body had a knock but hadn’t realised it was a hole. So hopefully all resolved when new pump arrives.
This is the correct pump with same ref number as the original Bosch unit.
Old one had a small hole in the body just where the fuel pipe connects, so must have been sucking air instead of drawing fuel especially as it has an additional filter after the tank now. I could see the body had a knock but hadn’t realised it was a hole. So hopefully all resolved when new pump arrives.
This is the correct pump with same ref number as the original Bosch unit.
Edited by 88S1 on Monday 13th March 06:12
Fitted new fuel pump, the diameter is smaller than the original, the new one was exactly the same as the one I ordered previously so added thicker rubber to the holding bracket.
Refurbed alternator back in with new original OEM spindle fitted.
My refurbished starter motor fitted back.
Engine turning but not firing, got fuel at engine, got spark at plug, hope it’s as simple as the timing being out by 180 degrees. Will need to do some reading up on it all as never tried to set up an engine before.
Fingers crossed
Refurbed alternator back in with new original OEM spindle fitted.
My refurbished starter motor fitted back.
Engine turning but not firing, got fuel at engine, got spark at plug, hope it’s as simple as the timing being out by 180 degrees. Will need to do some reading up on it all as never tried to set up an engine before.
Fingers crossed
The firing order is 1,4.2,5,3,6 so lift off the off side rocker cover, turn the engine over until both valves on No.1 cylinder are closed, find TDC and then check the distributor to see where the rotor arm is. It should be just passing HT lead No1 Wind the engine back about a 1/4 turn and then rotate forward again to where ever your static mark is (12⁰ BTDC?) and lock the distributor off there. That should be good enough to start the engine.
If you have fuel (wet plugs) and a correctly timed distributor then the problem is most likely with the air supply.
Carefully lift of the big rubber cap and check the air flap isn't jammed.
You might find THIS helpful.
If you have fuel (wet plugs) and a correctly timed distributor then the problem is most likely with the air supply.
Carefully lift of the big rubber cap and check the air flap isn't jammed.
You might find THIS helpful.
The cold start injector can cause problems so read up on that in the link in my last post. Here's an extract......
The last bit is the cold start injector, which ONLY sprays when you are cranking the engine. It has a control on the front of engine, which simply switches the injector off when either a) engine is hot, or b) after a fixed time to stop flooding. This is why this unit is also electrically heated as well as heated by coolant, and it looks like a temp sender but a bit bigger.
The tell-tale here would be sopping wet plugs. Hopefully timing the distributor correctly and correcting any problems on the air intake will get you going.
The good news is that once the injection system is running properly it is very reliable.
The last bit is the cold start injector, which ONLY sprays when you are cranking the engine. It has a control on the front of engine, which simply switches the injector off when either a) engine is hot, or b) after a fixed time to stop flooding. This is why this unit is also electrically heated as well as heated by coolant, and it looks like a temp sender but a bit bigger.
The tell-tale here would be sopping wet plugs. Hopefully timing the distributor correctly and correcting any problems on the air intake will get you going.
The good news is that once the injection system is running properly it is very reliable.
The cold start injector can cause problems so read up on that in the link in my last post. Here's an extract......
The last bit is the cold start injector, which ONLY sprays when you are cranking the engine. It has a control on the front of engine, which simply switches the injector off when either a) engine is hot, or b) after a fixed time to stop flooding. This is why this unit is also electrically heated as well as heated by coolant, and it looks like a temp sender but a bit bigger.
The tell-tale here would be sopping wet plugs. Hopefully timing the distributor correctly and correcting any problems on the air intake will get you going.
The good news is that once the injection system is running properly it is very reliable.
The last bit is the cold start injector, which ONLY sprays when you are cranking the engine. It has a control on the front of engine, which simply switches the injector off when either a) engine is hot, or b) after a fixed time to stop flooding. This is why this unit is also electrically heated as well as heated by coolant, and it looks like a temp sender but a bit bigger.
The tell-tale here would be sopping wet plugs. Hopefully timing the distributor correctly and correcting any problems on the air intake will get you going.
The good news is that once the injection system is running properly it is very reliable.
NGK's always worked well for me but any reputable brand will be fine. Don't bother with hyper expensive Iridium plugs, ordinary "cooking" ones will do fine.
You won't be the first bloke to spend hours trying to get an engine started and failing because the 20 years old plugs are knackered. You don't need to know how I know this
Consider buying a booster pack. Really handy when trying to re-commission an engine.
Like THIS
You won't be the first bloke to spend hours trying to get an engine started and failing because the 20 years old plugs are knackered. You don't need to know how I know this
Consider buying a booster pack. Really handy when trying to re-commission an engine.
Like THIS
Ok thanks. Can’t remember the last time I bought plugs. I’ll get a new coil whilst I’m at it.
As I’ve never seen the engine running my original plan was to keep as much of it original on the assumption that it did run before being unused and not to introduce too many new variables.
Some of the plugs seem dry, so I think I may have an injector issue. If I take plugs out and put some kitchen roll in the hole that should tell me if there’s fuel at each cylinder.
Is there a relay that kicks in to keep the engine running that I should check?
What does the ingnition control switch do, I have a new one of those. This box mounted in the wheel arch. ?
I can research the above, but is someone knows it would save me a little time.
Thanks
As I’ve never seen the engine running my original plan was to keep as much of it original on the assumption that it did run before being unused and not to introduce too many new variables.
Some of the plugs seem dry, so I think I may have an injector issue. If I take plugs out and put some kitchen roll in the hole that should tell me if there’s fuel at each cylinder.
Is there a relay that kicks in to keep the engine running that I should check?
What does the ingnition control switch do, I have a new one of those. This box mounted in the wheel arch. ?
I can research the above, but is someone knows it would save me a little time.
Thanks
88S1 said:
......... and not to introduce too many new variables. .....
Good idea, change one thing at a time working back from the plugs.88S1 said:
......Some of the plugs seem dry, so I think I may have an injector issue. ...
Possibly, but check everything else out first. There isn't much you can DIY on the injector internals. If you have some dry plugs then it's unlikely there is a problem with the cold start injector; if that was stuck all the plugs would either be very wet or normal. I suppose it might be possible it could be stuck in the hot position in which case you are effectively trying to start it without a choke. But even so you'd still be getting some sort of start. You could could check the each injectors in the way you would with a diesel but that is quite risky and a last resort. One stray spark and boom! Disconnect the coil if you do try it. But at your own risk!88S1 said:
..... If I take plugs out and put some kitchen roll in the hole that should tell me if there’s fuel at each cylinder. ...
The paper plugs will get blown away so don't bother with that. 88S1 said:
......Is there a relay that kicks in to keep the engine running that I should check? ....
Don't know on that one. Check the wiring diagram and see if there is anything listed. Maybe ask this question on the Wedge Forum - there's lots of 2.8 Wedges so someone will know.88S1 said:
...... What does the ignition control switch do, I have a new one of those. This box mounted in the wheel arch. ?
Is that the silver box with a few wires coming out of it? That the ignition amplifier. Try substituting that after you've fitted the new plugs and tested the coil. One thing at a time.
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