Discussion
Good idea - have a break from it.
Here's a couple of helpful videos to watch during the week.
https://youtu.be/RJOPeMgLtK4
https://youtu.be/_0vhImRd-v4?t=2
https://youtu.be/Ax6O6Zhxx0E?t=1
Irresponsible adults only!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=htfi9uLydEE
If you did one at a time into a jam jar you'd probably get away with it but note the comment on one of the videos about the injector seals.
88S1 said:
....... manifolds getting warm so something is happening. .......
Friction? Have you put oil in it? Here's a couple of helpful videos to watch during the week.
https://youtu.be/RJOPeMgLtK4
https://youtu.be/_0vhImRd-v4?t=2
https://youtu.be/Ax6O6Zhxx0E?t=1
Irresponsible adults only!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=htfi9uLydEE
If you did one at a time into a jam jar you'd probably get away with it but note the comment on one of the videos about the injector seals.
Edited by v8s4me on Sunday 19th March 15:54
Just had a thought.
After you take the old plugs out but before you fit the new ones spin the motor over on the starter until the oil pressure gauge shows something like normal pressure. Before you spin it though, squirt some engine oil down the bores and down the push-rod tubes so the cam has plenty of oil on it for start up.
Also disconnect the coil and put an old towel over the top of the engine to stop anything getting sucked in or oil getting blown over your nice clean engine bay.
Don't forget to reconnect the coil (now how do I know that?
)
After you take the old plugs out but before you fit the new ones spin the motor over on the starter until the oil pressure gauge shows something like normal pressure. Before you spin it though, squirt some engine oil down the bores and down the push-rod tubes so the cam has plenty of oil on it for start up.
Also disconnect the coil and put an old towel over the top of the engine to stop anything getting sucked in or oil getting blown over your nice clean engine bay.
Don't forget to reconnect the coil (now how do I know that?
)Fitted new plugs and coil hoping for the quick fix. No joy, it’s making exhaust fumes when under starter motor. but still doesn’t run. I don’t have the dash fitted so no gauges to check oil pressure etc, but did a compression test, getting 125 on LH side (1,2,3) and 150 on RH side (4,5,6)
Read in one post somewhere the tachometer needs to be connected as the ignition runs through this, but for the life of me couldn’t find what it plugs into in the wiring loom (white 3 pin plug).
Also read on PH that the coil should have a positive power supply when ignition is on, its position when under starter motor, but not with just the ignition on. Can anyone confirm if it should have power as that may be the issue.
Timing is definitely there or there abouts, when I twist 5 or 10 degrees either way there is no firing at all, then back to centre and it sounds like it wants to go, just won’t run when I release the key.
If I don’t activate the imobiliser it won’t let me turn the engine over, so that doesn’t seem to be the cause.
Any thoughts appreciated.
Read in one post somewhere the tachometer needs to be connected as the ignition runs through this, but for the life of me couldn’t find what it plugs into in the wiring loom (white 3 pin plug).
Also read on PH that the coil should have a positive power supply when ignition is on, its position when under starter motor, but not with just the ignition on. Can anyone confirm if it should have power as that may be the issue.
Timing is definitely there or there abouts, when I twist 5 or 10 degrees either way there is no firing at all, then back to centre and it sounds like it wants to go, just won’t run when I release the key.
If I don’t activate the imobiliser it won’t let me turn the engine over, so that doesn’t seem to be the cause.
Any thoughts appreciated.
I’ve checked it on the compression stroke at least 5 times, and also tried it 180 degrees just to check. At 180 degrees there’s nothing at all.
I have a fuel pressure testing kit that some one has let me use. Will test that next before pulling bits off. Both manifolds get warm so getting fuel to some cylinders.
I have a fuel pressure testing kit that some one has let me use. Will test that next before pulling bits off. Both manifolds get warm so getting fuel to some cylinders.
Ok, hopefully some progress.
Cleaned the gauze filter on the warm up regulator, slight bit of sediment in it
But hopefully the big find was the plunger sticking in the fuel distributor. Wouldn’t budge when i checked it. managed to free it and now operating smoothly. The O ring between the distributor and the plenum housing had split too. Ran out of time today, but hopefully the sticking plunger was the cause of the no running engine. Fingers crossed.
Cleaned the gauze filter on the warm up regulator, slight bit of sediment in it
But hopefully the big find was the plunger sticking in the fuel distributor. Wouldn’t budge when i checked it. managed to free it and now operating smoothly. The O ring between the distributor and the plenum housing had split too. Ran out of time today, but hopefully the sticking plunger was the cause of the no running engine. Fingers crossed.
Nope. Have taken the Warm up regulator apart, nothing looked to be an issue. Getting 25 ohms in the resistor, filter cleaned from inside out. It doesn’t get warm with just the ignition on.
I’m getting 0.5 bar fuel pressure with the ignition on at the WUR.(which is correct) But when I manually press the cap on the diaphragm it doesn’t go up to what I believe should be 3.5 bar. And I’m getting no fuel in the return pipe from the WUR. I don’t know if the pressure will only rise if the engine is running, and if fuel only comes through the return for the same reason.
I’m getting 0.5 bar fuel pressure with the ignition on at the WUR.(which is correct) But when I manually press the cap on the diaphragm it doesn’t go up to what I believe should be 3.5 bar. And I’m getting no fuel in the return pipe from the WUR. I don’t know if the pressure will only rise if the engine is running, and if fuel only comes through the return for the same reason.
This is more suited to PH so here goes.
If your coil runs on 9V (on start-up) you need to “lose” 3v from the 12V supply .
This is done by fitting a resistor (ballast resistor – same thing).
R (resistance) = V (Volts) ÷ A (amps)
Your fuse for the coil is 15A so let assume the coil actually draws 12A.
So R = 3V ÷ 12A = 0.25 (Ohms). Which is why TVR got away with a bit of coiled wire. This is a 0.25 Ohm resistor Maybe your AVO reading 0.25? and not 25Ohm ? If it is really 0.25Ohm then the bit of coiled wire is working
The resistor in your photo is probably more than that (mine is marked 1.6? but is actually 2 Ohm so it will be too much for what you want.
That’s the theory but the practice is sometimes different on a car. I used one of those 2 Ohm ballast resistors to give two speeds on a heater fan on a Tasmin. The theory says fitting a 2Ohm resistor would reduce 12V to almost nothing but it didn’t work out that way and I got a half speed fan. Probably because of how much current the old fan was drawing.
As regards the fuel pressure issue; I don't know the answer on that one I'm afraid. Have you tried the Tasmin Forum? My guess would be that the return valve only opens when the fuel system becomes over-pressurised. If you have the correct pressure in your system ie at the injectors then perhaps no fuel is returned to the tank. I don't really know on that one I'm afraid.
If your coil runs on 9V (on start-up) you need to “lose” 3v from the 12V supply .
This is done by fitting a resistor (ballast resistor – same thing).
R (resistance) = V (Volts) ÷ A (amps)
Your fuse for the coil is 15A so let assume the coil actually draws 12A.
So R = 3V ÷ 12A = 0.25 (Ohms). Which is why TVR got away with a bit of coiled wire. This is a 0.25 Ohm resistor Maybe your AVO reading 0.25? and not 25Ohm ? If it is really 0.25Ohm then the bit of coiled wire is working
The resistor in your photo is probably more than that (mine is marked 1.6? but is actually 2 Ohm so it will be too much for what you want.
That’s the theory but the practice is sometimes different on a car. I used one of those 2 Ohm ballast resistors to give two speeds on a heater fan on a Tasmin. The theory says fitting a 2Ohm resistor would reduce 12V to almost nothing but it didn’t work out that way and I got a half speed fan. Probably because of how much current the old fan was drawing.
As regards the fuel pressure issue; I don't know the answer on that one I'm afraid. Have you tried the Tasmin Forum? My guess would be that the return valve only opens when the fuel system becomes over-pressurised. If you have the correct pressure in your system ie at the injectors then perhaps no fuel is returned to the tank. I don't really know on that one I'm afraid.
Edited by v8s4me on Monday 17th April 23:42
Edited by v8s4me on Tuesday 18th April 21:21
Thanks for the explanation. The 25ohm was in the warm up regulator bimetallic strip. And that’s exactly what it should be. I just don’t know how to make it get warm.
Going to have a look at the inhibition. Someone on FB was having an issue and it was the ignition switch causing the issue.
Have had the fuel distributor soaking for 24 hours and now ultrasonically cleaned, that may have been partially blocked.
Round 5.
Going to have a look at the inhibition. Someone on FB was having an issue and it was the ignition switch causing the issue.
Have had the fuel distributor soaking for 24 hours and now ultrasonically cleaned, that may have been partially blocked.
Round 5.
Success at last. Running very rough but running. Had to bypass the ignition by putting the positive from the battery to the coil, so need to resolve that. Think it’s something to do with the tacho not being connected as the dash is out but for the life of me cant find what it plugs into around the steering column. So need to do some research on that. Such a relief to hear it run at last.
Can move forward now at least.
Can move forward now at least.
Congratulations!! 
So the problem was electrical after all then? That's great news and hopefully you'll be able to tune the fuel injection without too much trouble.
Check the wiring diagram to see what other connections there are to the tacho. If the dash isn't connected what have you done about the ignition indicator light? The alternator needs the resistance from the bulb to work properly.
So the problem was electrical after all then? That's great news and hopefully you'll be able to tune the fuel injection without too much trouble.
Check the wiring diagram to see what other connections there are to the tacho. If the dash isn't connected what have you done about the ignition indicator light? The alternator needs the resistance from the bulb to work properly.
v8s4me said:
Congratulations!!
So the problem was electrical after all then? That's great news and hopefully you'll be able to tune the fuel injection without too much trouble.
Check the wiring diagram to see what other connections there are to the tacho. If the dash isn't connected what have you done about the ignition indicator light? The alternator needs the resistance from the bulb to work properly.
It wouldn’t/doesn’t run without this solution, but WUR and Fuel Distibuter did need a clean out having found a bit of grudge in both. Haven’t seen the ignition light mentioned before, where is it?? So the problem was electrical after all then? That's great news and hopefully you'll be able to tune the fuel injection without too much trouble.
Check the wiring diagram to see what other connections there are to the tacho. If the dash isn't connected what have you done about the ignition indicator light? The alternator needs the resistance from the bulb to work properly.
I need to find what the 3 pin female plug in the tacho comments to as there isn’t one in the wiring around the steering column, and don’t remember disconnecting it to be honest, I put masking tape around the Speedo one, so would have done same for tacko if there was a plug. I do seem to have a black and red wire spare in the cables that look to have been cut, but no white. I’ll temp refit the dash and try make sense of it.
I don’t seem to have any voltage on the ignition switch terminals in run position. But that may be due to the above or maybe a faulty ignition switch. I don’t have any voltage on the coil in run position either (hence the bypass)
But it runs, that’s the main thing. Need to connect the exhaust up properly and let it run for a while and get to full heat before I put the bonnet back on and check for any leaks etc.
Edited by 88S1 on Sunday 23 April 21:40
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