Discussion
There are key at rest, the wrong orientation out there (so internal lever/rods that will not work). I know as I have all the parts to re-key/match key these. (you could bodge a new lift part into the old handle though, if this was the case). What you need to ensure is that the wafer ports are 12 and 6. A@
Edited by Adrian@ on Saturday 13th July 09:44
While I am waiting for the new door handle to arrive I’ve had a tinker to look at the poor running.
I got hold of a correct ECU for the car and substituted the old one. This didn’t fix the poor running but did change it from idling reasonably to not idling at all without holding it at about 1500 rpm.
So I took a look at the idle control valve. Oddly it looks new so I feel like someone else has trodden this path before me. Anyhow, disconnecting the idle control valve makes it idle at a little under 1k rpm but hunting a little. I took it off and cleaned it, but there was no need , it was virtually brand new. That had no effect. It still wouldn’t idle.
So I pulled the leads of the TPS and presto! It idled again, this time at about 1500 rpm.
No time to follow up but I will check the function of the TPS later.
New door lock arrives tomorrow so hopefully I will be able to get that fixed over the weekend.
Ive looked for easy to find air leaks but all the vacuum hoses are new with new jubes. Which again makes me wonder wether someone has looked at this problem before.
I got hold of a correct ECU for the car and substituted the old one. This didn’t fix the poor running but did change it from idling reasonably to not idling at all without holding it at about 1500 rpm.
So I took a look at the idle control valve. Oddly it looks new so I feel like someone else has trodden this path before me. Anyhow, disconnecting the idle control valve makes it idle at a little under 1k rpm but hunting a little. I took it off and cleaned it, but there was no need , it was virtually brand new. That had no effect. It still wouldn’t idle.
So I pulled the leads of the TPS and presto! It idled again, this time at about 1500 rpm.
No time to follow up but I will check the function of the TPS later.
New door lock arrives tomorrow so hopefully I will be able to get that fixed over the weekend.
Ive looked for easy to find air leaks but all the vacuum hoses are new with new jubes. Which again makes me wonder wether someone has looked at this problem before.
Edited by Astacus on Friday 19th July 13:14
Astacus said:
While I have the door dismantled I might as well check out the door handle that’s sticky and …… yea it’s knackered.
So the plan is to order one of the repro handles available on eBay dismantle it and swap the latches. Let’s see how that goes. Maybe I can start screwing stuff back together
So the repro arrived today,So the plan is to order one of the repro handles available on eBay dismantle it and swap the latches. Let’s see how that goes. Maybe I can start screwing stuff back together
It’s pretty much identical to the original Ford item
So I immediately set about dismantling it
And swapping the latches over
And it all fits together as it should. The only minor gripe I have is that the moulding quality isn’t perfect but it does the job, so tomorrow I’ll put it all back together.
For anyone else thinking of doing this it’s probably cheaper at the moment to buy a good second hand cortina door handle if you can find one amd the chroming and moulding will be better.
I missed one on E bay for 60 quid and . I decided to go the repro. route because I wanted to get it done and I didn’t have time to root about tracking down the used parts
Edited by Astacus on Friday 19th July 21:29
I did say that it is only good enough to take the lift part of the handle out to install into another handle (with some difficulty as the end plate can never be installed properly...the casting have the internals in the wrong positions, and it leaves the key 45 degrees out with the casing over the rear again 45 degree out so nothing actually works in the car. It is a lottery buying second-hand as the sellers are not 100% truthful (perhaps they simply choose not to see that the lift part is broken).
Mike did mention that the lift parts were being made (nothing I have seen, and I have enough door handles for my needs).
A@
Mike did mention that the lift parts were being made (nothing I have seen, and I have enough door handles for my needs).
A@
Today I have mostly been reinstalling the door handle and trying to get the car to idle properly.
The door handle went back on fine.
But the idle is very frustrating. I’ve checked the TPS voltages.
Apparently, according o the Car Mechanics article, these should be a 5v supply, a 0.6 to 4.5v output, (variable according to the throttle position) and an earth, which should be at 0.25’v relative to ground.
This is not the same as reported in the SHB (p62/63) which says that the output should be 0.26 - 0.36v to 4.6-5.0v (measured at the ECU (? again, unclear), which is closer to what I have.
I have a 5v supply, a 0.16 to 4.9v output and an earth at zero v. Measured with the sensor off the throttle body.
When attached to the throttle it’s about 0.4v to 4.9v, due to the position of the throttle stop.
The voltage looks smooth up to full throttle, with the TPS disconnected but I can’t really tell with my meter. Also looks smooth on the car by moving the throttle cam.
Adjusting it to 0.6 using the throttle stop and the car idles very roughly at about 1100 rpm then tears away to just over 2000 when warm. After a quick spin round the block the car stalled on the drive and wouldn’t idle. PAH!
I’ve ordered a new Intermotor TPS and will see if that does the trick, but I suspect it won't. The current one has brass contacts.
The door handle went back on fine.
But the idle is very frustrating. I’ve checked the TPS voltages.
Apparently, according o the Car Mechanics article, these should be a 5v supply, a 0.6 to 4.5v output, (variable according to the throttle position) and an earth, which should be at 0.25’v relative to ground.
This is not the same as reported in the SHB (p62/63) which says that the output should be 0.26 - 0.36v to 4.6-5.0v (measured at the ECU (? again, unclear), which is closer to what I have.
I have a 5v supply, a 0.16 to 4.9v output and an earth at zero v. Measured with the sensor off the throttle body.
When attached to the throttle it’s about 0.4v to 4.9v, due to the position of the throttle stop.
The voltage looks smooth up to full throttle, with the TPS disconnected but I can’t really tell with my meter. Also looks smooth on the car by moving the throttle cam.
Adjusting it to 0.6 using the throttle stop and the car idles very roughly at about 1100 rpm then tears away to just over 2000 when warm. After a quick spin round the block the car stalled on the drive and wouldn’t idle. PAH!
I’ve ordered a new Intermotor TPS and will see if that does the trick, but I suspect it won't. The current one has brass contacts.
Edited by Astacus on Sunday 21st July 00:54
Astacus said:
When attached to the throttle it’s about 0.4v to 4.9v, due to the position of the throttle stop.
On the 2.9 engine, the throttle stop is not an idle adjustmentIt's there so you can set the throttle plates fully closed, but prevent them sticking in the bores.
(Sticking will give you a bunch of other problems).
Idle is totally and only controlled by the ECU, through the ISCV. If you disconnect the ISCV while the engine is running, the motor should die! It usually takes a second or two.
After startup, or on diagnostic, the ECU will set its own idle speed.
[quote]
Idle is totally and only controlled by the ECU, through the ISCV. If you disconnect the ISCV while the engine is running, the motor should die! It usually takes a second
[/quote]
Interesting, clearly just disconnecting it before starting doesn’t do this on my car , in fact it idles reasonably well. I’ll try and pull the connector whilst it’s running and see what happens. But it might not be easy since it won’t actually idle
I was aware of the ecu idle control, but since I only had 0.4v on the TPS I thought maybe someone had backed off the idle screw. Seems it’s not that .
One thing I did notice as I was shutting up shop for the day was that the oil breather pipe that it attached tot he oil filler and runs down towards the airflow meters, is disconnected. It has a small elbow on the end but it's connected to nothing. Might that have an effect? What is it supposed to be connected to?
Thanks for everyones continued support
Idle is totally and only controlled by the ECU, through the ISCV. If you disconnect the ISCV while the engine is running, the motor should die! It usually takes a second
[/quote]
Interesting, clearly just disconnecting it before starting doesn’t do this on my car , in fact it idles reasonably well. I’ll try and pull the connector whilst it’s running and see what happens. But it might not be easy since it won’t actually idle
I was aware of the ecu idle control, but since I only had 0.4v on the TPS I thought maybe someone had backed off the idle screw. Seems it’s not that .
One thing I did notice as I was shutting up shop for the day was that the oil breather pipe that it attached tot he oil filler and runs down towards the airflow meters, is disconnected. It has a small elbow on the end but it's connected to nothing. Might that have an effect? What is it supposed to be connected to?
Thanks for everyones continued support
Edited by Astacus on Sunday 21st July 13:22
Re the TSP, my understanding is there is tinned and gold, and that then there is/was a purchase-able loom plug from Ford to correct rotation of the pot between (TVR advised a cut and chop of the loom about 5" down the loom) that cured the non/full throttle issues and obviously part-half throttle is/was the same. There was also a link within the ECU to change initial timing that could be cut to change related to autos and AC Ford cars (tuners were adding a pot to make that variable). A@
Well, the new TPS arrived today and I managed to get some time this evening to check it out.
It has no effect on the idle issue.
Basically the car will not idle at all now unless I keep my foot on the accelerator.
The new TPS has brass contacts and has the same readouts disconnected from the throttle spindle as the old one. Pulling the plug on it allows the car to start and idle fine at approx 1000 rpm even up to the point where the fan kicks in.
I have found an old flashing light code reader that I am going to try to see if there is anything that stands out.
Watch this space.
It has no effect on the idle issue.
Basically the car will not idle at all now unless I keep my foot on the accelerator.
The new TPS has brass contacts and has the same readouts disconnected from the throttle spindle as the old one. Pulling the plug on it allows the car to start and idle fine at approx 1000 rpm even up to the point where the fan kicks in.
I have found an old flashing light code reader that I am going to try to see if there is anything that stands out.
Watch this space.
Edited by Astacus on Thursday 25th July 08:51
Theres no sign the the TPS wiring has been altered and the TPS signal increases with increasing throttle, when I manually move it, so I think this is correctly wired. Over lunch 've had a little tinker with the flashing light code reader which may be informative. This reads code 22 and 36 on static and code 22 and 26 on engine running. It repeats 22 and 26 with a constant running setting. 22 and 26 are voltage low and high for AFM number 1. 36 is voltage too high on VFM 2.
The code reader is an old Gunson 4152 I picked up off eBay. It came with both sets of instructions and codes and was actually surprisingly easy to use. It even tells you how to test the AFM. So that's next on the menu.
Also. it seems the oil pressure drops to nothing once the oil has warmed up and the car is idling. Not something I was previously aware of and doesn't seem at all like a good thing. I'll look into that later, might just be that modern synthetic oil has been used, so ill change the oil for a bit of good ol 20/W50 first and see what happens
AFM first though - the question is, which is AFM 1? I will try taking the lead off each and see which one generates a fault code
I think I am getting the hang of this
The code reader is an old Gunson 4152 I picked up off eBay. It came with both sets of instructions and codes and was actually surprisingly easy to use. It even tells you how to test the AFM. So that's next on the menu.
Also. it seems the oil pressure drops to nothing once the oil has warmed up and the car is idling. Not something I was previously aware of and doesn't seem at all like a good thing. I'll look into that later, might just be that modern synthetic oil has been used, so ill change the oil for a bit of good ol 20/W50 first and see what happens
AFM first though - the question is, which is AFM 1? I will try taking the lead off each and see which one generates a fault code
I think I am getting the hang of this Edited by Astacus on Thursday 25th July 17:38
OK I MAY have tracked down the fault, although I hardly dare jinx it at the moment and will have to recheck tomorrow to be sure
The Fault reader pointed to a fault on one of the AFMs so I took a look at each. The top one seems to be functioning fine. on my car this is the one without the air temperature sensor and has three wires. when you move the vane the output voltage changes, measured by probing the connector..
The bottom one is a different story I get some pretty weird readings of this device.
pin 1 brown/yellow has a 5v supply with the connector off but reads 2.9v with the connector on. I think this is the temp out measurement but why is it 5v when disconnected?? electrical experts??
pin 2 also brown/yellow reads 5v whatever I do to the vane. It reads 0.1 with the plug off. I think this is the potentiometer-out reading and its stuffed.
pin 3 Brown/black reads 5v whether connected or not. This is the power supply
pin 4 Brown solid reads 0.1 whether connected or not and this must be the device earth
so tentative conclusion: number one AFM (the bottom one) is duff and I need a replacement.
Yay. I think.
The Fault reader pointed to a fault on one of the AFMs so I took a look at each. The top one seems to be functioning fine. on my car this is the one without the air temperature sensor and has three wires. when you move the vane the output voltage changes, measured by probing the connector..
The bottom one is a different story I get some pretty weird readings of this device.
pin 1 brown/yellow has a 5v supply with the connector off but reads 2.9v with the connector on. I think this is the temp out measurement but why is it 5v when disconnected?? electrical experts??
pin 2 also brown/yellow reads 5v whatever I do to the vane. It reads 0.1 with the plug off. I think this is the potentiometer-out reading and its stuffed.
pin 3 Brown/black reads 5v whether connected or not. This is the power supply
pin 4 Brown solid reads 0.1 whether connected or not and this must be the device earth
so tentative conclusion: number one AFM (the bottom one) is duff and I need a replacement.
Yay. I think.
Edited by Astacus on Friday 26th July 07:40
Well, a quick update on this. The air flow meter arrived yesterday, I checked it over and it seemed to work, so this evening I re assembled the air flow stack, hooked it up to the throttle body and ......it worked. Nice happy idle at about 1k dropping to about 900. I am dead chuffed. So I pulled the roof off and went for a blast round the by pass.
it was dark with no one around and the car sounded great. The doors rattled because the panels were still in the garage, the passenger side window refused to move and the lights on the speedo and rev. counter emitted a pathetic glow which seemed to be bleeding over from the panel lights. These, surprisingly, all functioned as they should, although, oddly, seemed to be fed from the unswitched circuit, like the windows. As I parked up, the light behind the window switch came on and the window came back to life.
Now I just have to fix the remaining niggly stuff in time for the MOT and get that booked in.
Oh and the windscreen washer has packed up
Onward and upward!
it was dark with no one around and the car sounded great. The doors rattled because the panels were still in the garage, the passenger side window refused to move and the lights on the speedo and rev. counter emitted a pathetic glow which seemed to be bleeding over from the panel lights. These, surprisingly, all functioned as they should, although, oddly, seemed to be fed from the unswitched circuit, like the windows. As I parked up, the light behind the window switch came on and the window came back to life.
Now I just have to fix the remaining niggly stuff in time for the MOT and get that booked in.
Oh and the windscreen washer has packed up
Onward and upward!
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