S2 Still won't fire on cylinder 4
Discussion
phillpot said:
Spacecowboyuk said:
That is the cap I have. Looks like I'm into new set of leads as well then. Are they readily available?
According to my "little black book" these are the leads you will need or I can sell you the cap in my photo. However they are very hard to find, it is brand new but it won't be cheap . . . . . . . £50!https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404807332826
Spacecowboyuk said:
Spacecowboyuk said:
phillpot said:
Spacecowboyuk said:
Cheers, responded
Nothing received ?Thanks to @Phillpot for getting the replacement dissy cap and rotor arm out to me so fast but sadly they did not fix the issue. Still not firing (no spark plug but got fuel) on cylinder No.4.
Is it possible the dissy shaft is out of true? Visually it all looks right when I turn her over with no cap on. What a mystery.
Is it possible the dissy shaft is out of true? Visually it all looks right when I turn her over with no cap on. What a mystery.
Edited by Spacecowboyuk on Tuesday 16th July 19:57
Something looks wrong here - should the brown wire which is currently connected to positive actually be connected to the negative battery lead?
I've read elsewhere that there should be "a smallish brown wire to the -ve terminal of the battery?
If the car uses a standard ford loom that's the negative for the engine loom.
V8S uses a standard range rover loom."
That's from here:
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Could that be why I'm having to introduce an earth the the relays and maybe why it's not firing on one dissy post?! When I follow it back the brown wire appears to.connect to the B+ on the alternator...
I've read elsewhere that there should be "a smallish brown wire to the -ve terminal of the battery?
If the car uses a standard ford loom that's the negative for the engine loom.
V8S uses a standard range rover loom."
That's from here:
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Could that be why I'm having to introduce an earth the the relays and maybe why it's not firing on one dissy post?! When I follow it back the brown wire appears to.connect to the B+ on the alternator...
Edited by Spacecowboyuk on Wednesday 17th July 17:58
Spacecowboyuk said:
Oh and cylinder 4 spark does come back momentarily just before the engine dies as I turn the dissy counter clockwise...
Remind me - did you check for play on the dizzy shaft?I think at this point I'd be putting foil over the terminals on the rotor cap and seeing which ones get wiped off by the rotor arm.
GreenV8S said:
Spacecowboyuk said:
Oh and cylinder 4 spark does come back momentarily just before the engine dies as I turn the dissy counter clockwise...
Remind me - did you check for play on the dizzy shaft?I think at this point I'd be putting foil over the terminals on the rotor cap and seeing which ones get wiped off by the rotor arm.
phillpot said:
The brown wire is correct going to the +ve
In the dizzy, under the rotor arm is a copper coloured trigger wheel thingy, could there be an issue with that, bent, corrosion, loose?
Do you mean the reluctor wheel? If so I've checked that too and it looks like new really. Not bent and runs true a far as the eye can see.In the dizzy, under the rotor arm is a copper coloured trigger wheel thingy, could there be an issue with that, bent, corrosion, loose?
Some more testing tonight:
When I pull the cap off and spin her over it still sends sparks down to the leads. Much more strong a spark on one bank than the other. Is it normal for spark to still be sent without the dissy cap connected to the dissy?
The other odd thing is that when I let off the ignition, it sparks twice in succession. So what I mean is, when I've stopped turning the key and release back to ignition position 2, there are two pulses of spark being sent to the plugs. You can hear two "ticks" and all the sparkrights light up (one bank much stronger than the other). that cannot be normal? Faulty ignition amp maybe or incorrect coil?
When I pull the cap off and spin her over it still sends sparks down to the leads. Much more strong a spark on one bank than the other. Is it normal for spark to still be sent without the dissy cap connected to the dissy?
The other odd thing is that when I let off the ignition, it sparks twice in succession. So what I mean is, when I've stopped turning the key and release back to ignition position 2, there are two pulses of spark being sent to the plugs. You can hear two "ticks" and all the sparkrights light up (one bank much stronger than the other). that cannot be normal? Faulty ignition amp maybe or incorrect coil?
Spacecowboyuk said:
Some more testing tonight:
When I pull the cap off and spin her over it still sends sparks down to the leads. Much more strong a spark on one bank than the other. Is it normal for spark to still be sent without the dissy cap connected to the dissy?
Can you expand on that? There should be no path from the coil to the plug leads when the dizzy cap is off. For there to be a spark on the plug leads, the spark would need to be tracking across the inside of the cap. If it's tracking, that can produce weak/intermittent sparks in normal use and it can affect different cylinders differently. But didn't you swap out the dizzy cap.and show the problem remained? It seems unlikely you have two dizzy caps that have failed in a way that only affects one cylinder.When I pull the cap off and spin her over it still sends sparks down to the leads. Much more strong a spark on one bank than the other. Is it normal for spark to still be sent without the dissy cap connected to the dissy?
Let me check I got this right. You're saying you have a spark AT THE PLUG when the engine is turned over with the distributor cap is removed from the distributor?
For that to happen there's need to be a circuit from the coil to the plug. The path it would need to take is from the coil HT lead to the king lead, from the far end of the king lead to the center post on the dizzy cap, from the output post of the dizzy cap to the plug lead, from the far end of the plug lead to the plug, across the air gap in the plug to the cylinder head, from the engine to ground and back to the grounded side of the coil.
In the middle of that is a huge air gap between the center post and output post of the dizzy cap.
If you've got a strong enough spark to bridge an air gap that big you won't just see it, you'll be wearing it.
Does the spark stop when you disconnect the plug lead from the dizzy cap?
For that to happen there's need to be a circuit from the coil to the plug. The path it would need to take is from the coil HT lead to the king lead, from the far end of the king lead to the center post on the dizzy cap, from the output post of the dizzy cap to the plug lead, from the far end of the plug lead to the plug, across the air gap in the plug to the cylinder head, from the engine to ground and back to the grounded side of the coil.
In the middle of that is a huge air gap between the center post and output post of the dizzy cap.
If you've got a strong enough spark to bridge an air gap that big you won't just see it, you'll be wearing it.
Does the spark stop when you disconnect the plug lead from the dizzy cap?
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