Hazards Not Working
Discussion
The old 280i 2+2 has been for its first MOT in roughly 5 years today, and failed 
It was only on a few electrical faults (most of which sorted out by re-connecting a loose plug under the steering wheel) but the only thing left to do is get the hazard switch working.
It does not seem to really be doing anything, but if you have it on and then put the indicator on you get a very fast click from the relay. Is it likely to just be the switch at fault? I don't really know how the hazard light circuit works but it would be ghood to get it sorted so I can get a retest tomorrow or Saturday
Very happy it only failed on such a relatively minor fault, but the drive to the MOT station (my first ever drive in the car) was a real eye opener :crazy:
It was only on a few electrical faults (most of which sorted out by re-connecting a loose plug under the steering wheel) but the only thing left to do is get the hazard switch working.
It does not seem to really be doing anything, but if you have it on and then put the indicator on you get a very fast click from the relay. Is it likely to just be the switch at fault? I don't really know how the hazard light circuit works but it would be ghood to get it sorted so I can get a retest tomorrow or Saturday
Very happy it only failed on such a relatively minor fault, but the drive to the MOT station (my first ever drive in the car) was a real eye opener :crazy:
Yes it is like the window switches, but I have switched it many hundreds of times now with no difference 
I have taken it out and the contacts are all bright copper, and I also gave it a jetting over with electrical contact cleaner. Reading online though mine sounds different to other wedge owners, in that it only has 6 pins in the back.
I have also just looked behind the centre console and under the drivers side section of the dash and unfortunately it looks an absolute catastrophe. Random extra wires pulled everywhere, some things not connecting to anything and scotch locks
I will trace the wires through properly tomorrow and try to find anything obvious with the meter I think.
I have taken it out and the contacts are all bright copper, and I also gave it a jetting over with electrical contact cleaner. Reading online though mine sounds different to other wedge owners, in that it only has 6 pins in the back.
I have also just looked behind the centre console and under the drivers side section of the dash and unfortunately it looks an absolute catastrophe. Random extra wires pulled everywhere, some things not connecting to anything and scotch locks
I will trace the wires through properly tomorrow and try to find anything obvious with the meter I think.
The older design of hazard circuit was pretty simple: the switch basically linked all the indicators together and fed them from a separate flasher unit that was rated for 80W instead of 40W. It was often physically possible to install a standard flasher unit in place of the hazard flasher which generally resulted in it becoming a bit crispy - at best the indicators would flash like disco strobes.
Wedg1e said:
The older design of hazard circuit was pretty simple: the switch basically linked all the indicators together and fed them from a separate flasher unit that was rated for 80W instead of 40W. It was often physically possible to install a standard flasher unit in place of the hazard flasher which generally resulted in it becoming a bit crispy - at best the indicators would flash like disco strobes.
Would this seperate flasher unit be under the steering column like the normal flasher, or is it in the engine bay?The number of pins on the switch may really matter. Make sure that sure that you have the correct switch by comparing the pins on the switch to the wiring on the plug. The TR-7's switch looks the same but has 6 pins while the 7 pin Lucas switch was also used in the 80s Range Rover and getting hard to find. I don't know if some Wedges used a 6 pin switch, mine needed a 7 pin one. Grady
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