TVR Tuscan- storage and maintenance

TVR Tuscan- storage and maintenance

Author
Discussion

The Busman

Original Poster:

13 posts

28 months

Wednesday 14th August
quotequote all
I will need to store my 2001 42k Tuscan for at least 12 months. Full 6k service just complete, and being stored in dry dedicated garage. would welcome thoughts re my prep, and have I missed anything. I will use a quality trickle charger, garage has dehumidifier, and dehumidifying bags in car, car will be left on carpet mats to avoid flats with slightly over flated tyres, hand brake will be off and left in gear, windows partly open to help air circulation, some mouse traps (just in case). Finally, would appreciate advice re periodically starting and running the straight 6 engine. If so how frequently and for how long. Would welcome any thoughts.....

Shanksy87

108 posts

67 months

Thursday 15th August
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The steps outlined seemed prudent.

My own personal opinion is that starting a car periodically offers no benefit, other than to dilute the oil with petrol and wear the cylinder bores. 12 months isn't a particularly long time to leave a car sitting in near ideal conditions and your engine won't deteriorate if its not started during this period.

jr6yam

1,207 posts

128 months

Thursday 15th August
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Put some fuel stabiliser in the tank?

Getsis

1,502 posts

161 months

Thursday 15th August
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Don't bother with the trickle charger, remove or disconnect the battery, less chance of a fire.
My tuscan has been in the garage for over 12 months while I upgrade things, I start the car every 6 months to be sure all is still OK, only run for 5 mins.
I restore cars as a hobby and if I'm not going to run an engine for some time I add a little oil into the bores and turn the engine over. never had an issue when firing up a few years later.

All threads should have pictures :-)

RAS

325 posts

195 months

Friday 16th August
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I always chock the wheels and leave the handbrake of and the car out of gear. That way you can push it out of the garage if the clutch seizes.

fausTVR

1,335 posts

95 months

Monday 2nd September
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In addition, I prop the chassis up on stands, wheels off to give the suspension/bushes a rest, tyres upto 40. This allows me to give the underside a squirt and a going over with rags. As said battery disconnected, bodywork cleaned, old sheets all over car to avoid dust and scratches. Haven't tried soft music and a Horlicks yet.

dvs_dave

5,585 posts

170 months

Monday 2nd September
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Pretty much what you’ve suggested. But pump the tyres up to 40 psi and brim the fuel tank. Make sure you put it away hot after a good run and make sure you’ve done a few good hard stops to get the discs nice, clean and dry.

This has worked for me for the past 10 years.

TwinKam

1,245 posts

40 months

Tuesday 3rd September
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'Modern' petrol goes off in less time than it used to; it dries to a nasty clogging goo, even just over the winter months. Ask the motorcycle boys... I, and others I know, drain the tank and then run the engine until it cuts out. Admittedly this is on older, carburetted 'bikes, but injectors aren't cheap to clean either.
Alternatively, I believe that in-tank additives to preserve petrol are available, but I have no personal experience of them.
Also...
Running an engine for 5 mins will do more harm than good; to be of benefit it needs to be run to full operating temperature so that the contaminants created by starting and cold-running are 'boiled out' of the oil. Ideally this would be under a bit of load too, not simply left idling.

Moose v8

109 posts

11 months

Tuesday 3rd September
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Agree with comments, above do disconnect battery , but use smart charger to cycle battery. When I layed my car up used axle stands to remove wheels

Tuscan Wil

364 posts

131 months

Thursday 5th September
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The speed six is a dry sump engine, if you do run the engine, make sure you don't let it idle. As said before it causes more damage than good. If you feel better to run the engine, I would suggest run it with 1200- 1400 rpm to make sure the oil pump properly circulating the cold oil until the oil is 40 to 50 degree warm at the very least.