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Penelope Stopit said:
Byker28i said:
This thread needs to be a sticky - like the Cerbera alternative parts one.
Mods - something you can do?
Glad things were sorted out for you Byker28iMods - something you can do?
Is it ok for me to post your images and method used as proof of oxidised cable cleaning here ?
Kitchen Recipes - Only the best one
PH Members Bogsye and Byker28i Discuss cable cleaning methods and Byker28i tests one
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Approximately 15 minutes later
PH Members Bogsye and Byker28i Discuss cable cleaning methods and Byker28i tests one
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Bogsye said:
The oxidised wires can be treated - I think I made up a solution of vinegar and salt to steep the bared ends in and then cleaned them with bicarbonate of soda. I guess contact cleaner solution would do the same. That allowed me to tin the clean ends with solder before putting on the new terminals.
Byker28i said:
I looked this up and found these instructions...
This process uses two solutions, one is regular table salt and vinegar. Any kind of vinegar will work, from balsamic, to rice, to white vinegars. Its the acidity and corrosiveness of the salt and vinegar together that you want. The other solution is Sodium Bicarbonate, or baking soda, and water. This is used to neutralize the corrosive properties of the other solution, and to further clean the wires.
Step 1: Strip the wires to be cleaned.
Step 2: Get 2 containers, one for each solution. They can be paper cups, plastic, glass, bowls, whatever you can find. I have vials, because I am a professional electronics installer and I use these solutions out in the field.
Step 3: Get 1 tablespoon of raw salt, and put it in one of the containers. Fill up the rest of the container with vinegar, and stir the both together. As a general rule of thumb, put as much salt in the vinegar as will dissolve.
Step 4: Get 1 tablespoon of Sodium Bicarbonate, (baking soda) and add it to the other container. Fill up the rest with water, and stir well. Add more baking soda to make it cloudy. The amount is not important, as long as it is alkaline to cancel the acid of the vinegar solution.
Step 5: Put the stripped end of the wire in the vinegar solution, and stir the solution with the wire. any wire you want cleaned needs to be under the solution. Movement of the wire in the liquid speeds up the process.
Step 6: After 2 minutes or so, the wire will look very shiny and new in the vinegar solution. The acid and salt in the solution is etching away the oxides, exposing the bare metal. Make sure the metal is uniformly shiny. Leave it in longer if it is not perfectly clean throughout.
Step 7: Once the wire is satisfactorily clean, remove the wire from the vinegar, and plunge it into the baking soda solution to neutralize the acid's corrosive properties. If the wire was exposed to the air, without neutralizing the acid first, it would quickly corrode again. The baking soda keeps it clean and shiny. Swish the wire around in the baking soda water for about 10 seconds, and then you are done!! Shiny new wire ready for soldering, and conducting once again!!
https://www.instructables.com/How-to-perfectly-cle...
This process uses two solutions, one is regular table salt and vinegar. Any kind of vinegar will work, from balsamic, to rice, to white vinegars. Its the acidity and corrosiveness of the salt and vinegar together that you want. The other solution is Sodium Bicarbonate, or baking soda, and water. This is used to neutralize the corrosive properties of the other solution, and to further clean the wires.
Step 1: Strip the wires to be cleaned.
Step 2: Get 2 containers, one for each solution. They can be paper cups, plastic, glass, bowls, whatever you can find. I have vials, because I am a professional electronics installer and I use these solutions out in the field.
Step 3: Get 1 tablespoon of raw salt, and put it in one of the containers. Fill up the rest of the container with vinegar, and stir the both together. As a general rule of thumb, put as much salt in the vinegar as will dissolve.
Step 4: Get 1 tablespoon of Sodium Bicarbonate, (baking soda) and add it to the other container. Fill up the rest with water, and stir well. Add more baking soda to make it cloudy. The amount is not important, as long as it is alkaline to cancel the acid of the vinegar solution.
Step 5: Put the stripped end of the wire in the vinegar solution, and stir the solution with the wire. any wire you want cleaned needs to be under the solution. Movement of the wire in the liquid speeds up the process.
Step 6: After 2 minutes or so, the wire will look very shiny and new in the vinegar solution. The acid and salt in the solution is etching away the oxides, exposing the bare metal. Make sure the metal is uniformly shiny. Leave it in longer if it is not perfectly clean throughout.
Step 7: Once the wire is satisfactorily clean, remove the wire from the vinegar, and plunge it into the baking soda solution to neutralize the acid's corrosive properties. If the wire was exposed to the air, without neutralizing the acid first, it would quickly corrode again. The baking soda keeps it clean and shiny. Swish the wire around in the baking soda water for about 10 seconds, and then you are done!! Shiny new wire ready for soldering, and conducting once again!!
https://www.instructables.com/How-to-perfectly-cle...
Byker28i said:
Well, I'm going to have to try it now... 
Approximately 15 minutes later
Byker28i said:
Big Al. said:
Byker28i said:
This thread needs to be a sticky - like the Cerbera alternative parts one.
Mods - something you can do?
No probs suggest a title and I'll tweak it. Mods - something you can do?
Sharing is caring
Penelope Stopit said:
Interesting. Would these wires be oxidised far up inside the rubber shroud do you think. I have a 6v motorcycle some 43 years old which has exactly the same on most of its wiring.
I recently replaced the brake light warning switch for a modern one and found my wire was still black after cutting about 8 inches of it off as it used to fit in back wheel so now too long.
It works very well as does all the wiring.
Does this make that much difference?
Classic Chim said:
Interesting. Would these wires be oxidised far up inside the rubber shroud do you think.
I have a 6v motorcycle some 43 years old which has exactly the same on most of its wiring.
I recently replaced the brake light warning switch for a modern one and found my wire was still black after cutting about 8 inches of it off as it used to fit in back wheel so now too long.
It works very well as does all the wiring.
Does this make that much difference?
As you know, there's a big difference between oxidisation and corrosionI have a 6v motorcycle some 43 years old which has exactly the same on most of its wiring.
I recently replaced the brake light warning switch for a modern one and found my wire was still black after cutting about 8 inches of it off as it used to fit in back wheel so now too long.
It works very well as does all the wiring.
Does this make that much difference?
Many old cable conductors are oxidised through the sleeving for several inches or more yet keep functioning ok as long as each end is clean at the termination points
An addendum to the cleaning is that having left the test wires for a few days they started oxidising again, maybe I didn't complete the process correctly? The wires were off my 12v garden lights and I tinned the wires I was using with solder immediately and it cured a number of issues.
Hella, lots of
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Edited by Penelope Stopit on Saturday 24th July 14:36
Penelope Stopit said:
Here's a better way of using a fag lighter as an immobiliser, and best of all it needs 2 relays. Ignition on: R2 closes. R1 remains open until the cigarette is pushed in. At this point it grounds R1 coil, so the contacts close to supply the fuel pump . The cigarette lighter remains cold as the relay coil limits the current through it, so remains stuck in.
Ignition off, R2 then switches to put battery 12v onto the lighter, so it gets hot and pops out and goes open circuit, so R1 will have no ground until its pushed in again.
This means the car immobilises after a few seconds once the ignition is off. Take the fag lighter away, and its never going to start.
On the down side is if you need to cycle the ignition off for a few second before a restart, the fag lighter gets hot, pops out and wont latch in again until its cooled enough. Also don't put a hot fag lighter in your pocket
. 
Who needs all that fancy and unreliable electronics?
blitzracing said:
Penelope Stopit said:
Here's a better way of using a fag lighter as an immobiliser, and best of all it needs 2 relays. Ignition on: R2 closes. R1 remains open until the cigarette is pushed in. At this point it grounds R1 coil, so the contacts close to supply the fuel pump . The cigarette lighter remains cold as the relay coil limits the current through it, so remains stuck in.
Ignition off, R2 then switches to put battery 12v onto the lighter, so it gets hot and pops out and goes open circuit, so R1 will have no ground until its pushed in again.
This means the car immobilises after a few seconds once the ignition is off. Take the fag lighter away, and its never going to start.
On the down side is if you need to cycle the ignition off for a few second before a restart, the fag lighter gets hot, pops out and wont latch in again until its cooled enough. Also don't put a hot fag lighter in your pocket
. Who needs all that fancy and unreliable electronics?
Could a disposable lighter be used in place of the fag lighter?
5/10 - Not enough relays in this circuit Blitz
Tuscan speaker plugs and sockets behind dashboard
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/wire-housings-plugs...
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/wire-housings-plugs...
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/wire-housings-plugs...
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/wire-housings-plugs...
Get some weight off for racing
https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/brise-permanent-ma...
https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/brise-12v-competit...
https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/brise-permanent-ma...
https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/brise-12v-competit...
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