Corroded brake line unions

[bayzoo]

stevieturbo said:

Kunifer or copper is dead easy to get good flares with proper tools.

It's only cheap rubbish that makes the process more difficult.

Steel on the other hand does require good tools, cheap stuff will just make a mess.

And as has already been noted, any joins of pipes must involve steel. ie, do not try and mate copper to copper, kunifer to kunifer etc directly
It must be with a suitable steel jointing piece in the middle.

Thanks for the advice. The unions recommended by a poster above are made from cold cast steel , and my plan is to join a coated steel pipe to the Kunifer pipe via this union. I’m assuming this is ok?

[steveo3002]

i linked you to a proper joiner...you form your own male ends and they screw into the steel joiner , all safe above board for the mot

[bayzoo]

steveo3002 said:

i linked you to a proper joiner...you form your own male ends and they screw into the steel joiner , all safe above board for the mot

You did, much appreciated.

I will report back on my progress and hopefully share some pictures of my flares for some feedback.

[Yogioes]

Here's the method I used for making a new Kunifer pipe match the profile of the old steel pipe.
Used cable ties to hold it alongside the pipe as I worked from one end to the other.

[bayzoo]

Yogioes said:

Here's the method I used for making a new Kunifer pipe match the profile of the old steel pipe.
Used cable ties to hold it alongside the pipe as I worked from one end to the other.

Good idea, what pipe bender tool are you using?

[bayzoo]

Still awaiting the arrival of my new bits and pieces. I’ve read in a few places that you need to chamfer and deburr prior to flaring.

The de-burring part is obvious and I have needle files for that; how important is getting the chamfer right?

[bayzoo]

So the flaring hasn’t gone so well - now you’re going to tell me I should have gotten the expensive £200 tool.

I keep getting flares like this despite following the instructions:



Am I applying too much torque? Or not enough?

Thanks

[stevieturbo]

bayzoo said:

So the flaring hasn’t gone so well - now you’re going to tell me I should have gotten the expensive £200 tool.

I keep getting flares like this despite following the instructions:



Am I applying too much torque? Or not enough?

Thanks

I've no idea what you're doing, to say which part of the process you're doing wrong. Or what sort of pipe you are using, ad which flare you're trying to create.

but that does not look like any normal flare lol.

And lots of pipe cutters will have a little de-bur tool built in

[stevieturbo]

bayzoo said:

So the flaring hasn’t gone so well - now you’re going to tell me I should have gotten the expensive £200 tool.

Thanks

None of the tools I mentioned are £200.

[steveo3002]

is it the din tool?

are you setting the length of the pipe before tightening the nuts...youre making some silly mistake it really is childs play

should be set pipe to length ...nip up pinch bolts ...wind in flare thead ...done

email if you get stuck i can take pics and send over

[steveo3002]

5:33 till 8:58 he has the sae one so you most likley have one die

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1FXW2VC4po

my guess it you didnt set the length

deburring it your cutter might have a V shape bit that you twist in the pipe or use a drill bit in your hand , just to take off any rough edges dont have to go mad

[bayzoo]

stevieturbo said:

None of the tools I mentioned are £200.

Apologies I meant £100 but still an unwarranted generalisation. I'm assuming the Flaremaster 2 is what professionals use in garages? Looks like a nice bit of kit, and could be a good investment should I take this hobby further. I'm assuming they hold value well for future resale.

steveo3002 said:

is it the din tool?

are you setting the length of the pipe before tightening the nuts...youre making some silly mistake it really is childs play

should be set pipe to length ...nip up pinch bolts ...wind in flare thead ...done

email if you get stuck i can take pics and send over

The only tool is me... you are correct, I was making an obvious mistake. First mistake was me getting too excited and trying to get it working whilst I was still doing my day job. Second mistake was how you set the stopper, which I've now resolved.

Thanks for everyones patience and advice, it's much appreciated. See below my second flare (slightly better than my first):





Criticism welcome.

[steveo3002]

looks better ...easy eh?

[bayzoo]

And for a laugh here's what I wasted...

[bayzoo]

steveo3002 said:

looks better ...easy eh?

Very much so

[CrutyRammers]

bayzoo said:

And for a laugh here's what I wasted...

Not waste, learning. Can't expect to get these things right first time.

[InitialDave]

Little late here, but those ebay compact flaring tools will flare a steel pipe while still on the car without issue.

[stevieturbo]

Always best to practise first, so you know you will get it right when it matters....and don't forget to slide the fittings on before you flare lol

[bayzoo]

CrutyRammers said:

Not waste, learning. Can't expect to get these things right first time.

Very true - flared another 2 just for the sake of it

InitialDave said:

Little late here, but those ebay compact flaring tools will flare a steel pipe while still on the car without issue.

Thanks, there's a small section of pipe in between 2 Flexi hoses I'm going to replace, which I'll test the tool on first. I'll just need to make sure I remove all of the plastic coating.

On another note, during my mistake I seem to have damaged the threads on the die part - the nut size if 16mm. Do you think this thread file would do the trick:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Metric-Thread-Restorati...

[bayzoo]

stevieturbo said:

Always best to practise first, so you know you will get it right when it matters....and don't forget to slide the fittings on before you flare lol

Ha you know I'm going to go this...