Elise Meta Systems M36 T2 immobiliser will not de-activate

Elise Meta Systems M36 T2 immobiliser will not de-activate

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b-havers

Original Poster:

15 posts

164 months

Sunday 7th May 2017
quotequote all
To the board of wisdom and wizards

I see the non-working immobilizer is a common problem among the different forums users.

My 2002 Rover-K 1.8 KomoTech S2 Elise has been sitting without a battery for far too long, and is completely dead.
It is possible to switch the alarm on and off, and when I twist the ignition key all check-lights that shall light – lights up.

When I press the immobilizer button on the key, the warning light shine bright for two seconds - and then goes back oi flashing every other second

When I then twist the key the last bit to start the car – nothing.

Have gotten several advices, among which re-pairing the key to the immobilizer seems the most proper.
But, when searching for how-to-do this, a lot of tips comes up, but I can’t get them to work.

After some time, it came clear to me that this solutions is for the Cobra security system, not for the Meta System that is in my car.
In an answer from the Lotus factory, I am told there is no way to re-pair the key to the immobiliser (obviously there is some connection, as the warling lights shines bright until it goes back to flashing)


I have come to the conclution to do a bypass.
Tha fabolous World Wide Web shows - as I said - a lot of 'how-to-do' for a Cobra immobiliser, but not the Meta M36 - which of cource do not have the contact-plug as shown in all available how-to-do's.

Have anybody tried this before? How to do a bypass for the Meta M36 Immobiliser?


On the TVR section there is a thread about the Meta system bypass (https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=8&t=1219754&i=999999) - where also some users mention a by-pass diagram.

I was told by Penelope Stopit to post this on the Lotus section - so... here it is.

Here is a video showing the symptom; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMmoUX-ddig





Edited by b-havers on Sunday 7th May 18:53

Penelope Stopit

7,170 posts

66 months

Sunday 7th May 2017
quotequote all
If you split the immobiliser case open you will very likely see 2 or 3 relays inside it, look very closely at the circuit board conductor tracks and you should notice that there are pairs of heavier tracks coming from the relays to the cable connections, each relay should have 4 or 5 tracks and it is the heavier tracks that come from the relay contacts to immobilise any chosen circuits
This should all make sense to you if not before, definitely after you have opened the immobiliser up

Post back here if the guts of the immobiliser are not as I have described

b-havers

Original Poster:

15 posts

164 months

Sunday 7th May 2017
quotequote all
Thanx a lot, I'll see if I find time later tonight - if not I'll check it tomorow

b-havers

Original Poster:

15 posts

164 months

Sunday 7th May 2017
quotequote all
It seems the case is glued together, right?
No bolts?

Just need some time to try to split the two halves.


Penelope Stopit

7,170 posts

66 months

Monday 8th May 2017
quotequote all
If you are bothered about breaking it apart you can follow the cables exiting it until reaching the connections where it breaks circuits for immobilisation.
It is old and needs removing/replacing whichever way you go about it, following its wires to the connections at the car harness will make it easy for you to wire in a new immobiliser at those same connection points. Breaking the immobiliser apart and by-passing it is a quick fix

b-havers

Original Poster:

15 posts

164 months

Monday 8th May 2017
quotequote all
Thank you, I'll have a go as soon as possible.

b-havers

Original Poster:

15 posts

164 months

Tuesday 9th May 2017
quotequote all
Instead of splitting the immobiliser and do damage to the cables, I found the contact, and fitted an immobilser bypass plug bought from Eliseparts.
Car started on first twist of the key