Cold solder/glue for rear demister?

Cold solder/glue for rear demister?

Author
Discussion

Garett

Original Poster:

1,489 posts

169 months

Saturday 14th May
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Can anyone recommend a product that I can use to stick the rear demister tab back into the glass? Rather irritatingly this just snapped off with the lightest of touches with a microfibre whilst cleaning the rear window!


rigga

7,550 posts

178 months

Saturday 14th May
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Used to be able to buy repair "paint " from Halfords, dunno if they still sell it.

Used it to repair broken lines in the demister, sure it would re attach the pad.

NMNeil

3,924 posts

27 months

Saturday 14th May
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paintman

7,043 posts

167 months

paintman

7,043 posts

167 months

Saturday 14th May
quotequote all
rigga said:
Used to be able to buy repair "paint " from Halfords, dunno if they still sell it.

Used it to repair broken lines in the demister, sure it would re attach the pad.
Think that would be 'Granville Electro Connector'.

Been around for years. Used it to repair breaks on the demister lines but using masking tape to give a fine line, not the huge masking thing it comes with.

Doesn't work as an adhesive (says that in the instructions as well) but I've used glass glue (stuff for sticking mirrors back on) to stick the tab back on then used it to bridge the gap & reconnect the tab & the element.


Edited by paintman on Saturday 14th May 23:20

VanDiesel99

126 posts

45 months

Sunday 15th May
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spot on advice from Paintman. My experience too

Polly Grigora

9,764 posts

86 months

Sunday 15th May
quotequote all
Visit an auto electrician and ask for the tab to be soldered back on

Or

Have soldered many tabs back on and never had a screen crack with the heat

Clean the screen element properly with very fine abrasive paper (looks like there's some glue on it), only clean the element until it is nice and shiny, don't rub at it for too long as it will wear through, wipe with alcohol based cleaner

Plan a new position for the tab where the largest contact areas will be, your screen tab may have to be soldered on in a slightly diagonal position

Disconnect the cable from the tab

Heat the tab until the old solder runs and knock or wipe the solder off

Using a medium sized soldering iron (approx 15mm wide tip) apply new solder to the tab, first tin front and rear faces of the tab, hold or balance/position the tab level with its areas to be soldered facing upwards so that a good blob of solder is applied at each end of the tab face

Rap some cardboard around the terminal part of the tab and grab the cardboard with pointed pliers so that the pliers are pinching the tab terminal through the cardboard, doing this prevents heat being drawn off by the pliers from the area to be soldered

This is the most important part of the job - Don't get pissed the day before you're going to do it

Now with a steady hand, practice for what is the best position for you to hold the tab steady against the element with the pliers, I always have part of my hand or arm pressing against the screen or C post trim to help keep the terminal sat steady (tailgate left shut if it has one)

Get the soldering iron nice and hot, hold tab in position, apply soldering iron to tab, you will feel and see the solder melt, hold tab steady and blow like fk on it to help cool it down quickly, the quicker it cools the sooner you can stop holding the tab with the pliers

Have heard of people warming the screen with a hair dryer just before soldering on the tab, I've never warmed a screen first although this method could prevent the screen from cracking

Polly Grigora

9,764 posts

86 months

Sunday 15th May
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If you can't get enough contact area for soldering the tab back on (area looks good to me, seen worse)

Although have never needed to do it, you could cut a piece of copper foil and solder it to the screen before soldering the tab onto the tinned foil