Starting / MOT a car which has sat for five years.
Discussion
Long story short... life being complicated and all that - I've got an MGF, which has sat for five years with never being turned over during that time. I know it's not much but it's mine and means a lot to me and I would like to get it back on the road and enjoy it.
The space which was loaned to me to keep it in, is now no longer mine and I need to move the car pronto.
It's been sorned during the time, handbrake off and was in good form before I stopped using it... It's physically in good condition with no obvious leaks underneath. The tyres have maintained pressure - slightly low but amazingly not flat. The hydragas suspension height looks to be a touch low but probably what it was previously.
I have a brand new battery in a box, ready to fit.
I am aware I will have to remove the petrol and have bought a siphon to do so, before I start it but what else should I be considering to do?
I was wondering if a petrol additive is worth adding the first tank of fresh petrol, alongside a premium jerry can of fuel from shell or the like?
I was thinking oil change too but I've never done this before and worry I might wreck the sump plug in the process and stop me from driving it to the garage for the MOT.
I have seen oil removal pumps with the tube you insert into the dipstick but do not know how effective these are, particularly on a cold engine.
I'm on a budget to do this and can't afford to bring a mechanic out, so will have to attempt this myself. I've not attempted anything major on cars mechanically but I'm reasonably confident.
Genuine help would be greatly received... thanks!
The space which was loaned to me to keep it in, is now no longer mine and I need to move the car pronto.
It's been sorned during the time, handbrake off and was in good form before I stopped using it... It's physically in good condition with no obvious leaks underneath. The tyres have maintained pressure - slightly low but amazingly not flat. The hydragas suspension height looks to be a touch low but probably what it was previously.
I have a brand new battery in a box, ready to fit.
I am aware I will have to remove the petrol and have bought a siphon to do so, before I start it but what else should I be considering to do?
I was wondering if a petrol additive is worth adding the first tank of fresh petrol, alongside a premium jerry can of fuel from shell or the like?
I was thinking oil change too but I've never done this before and worry I might wreck the sump plug in the process and stop me from driving it to the garage for the MOT.
I have seen oil removal pumps with the tube you insert into the dipstick but do not know how effective these are, particularly on a cold engine.
I'm on a budget to do this and can't afford to bring a mechanic out, so will have to attempt this myself. I've not attempted anything major on cars mechanically but I'm reasonably confident.
Genuine help would be greatly received... thanks!
Eyeball as much of the fuel lines as possible. Modern fuels are far more aggressive than these cars were designed for and it's becoming increasingly common for fuel lines to degrade over a few years and turn into fuel sprinklers. Pay particular attention to bends and clamps where the hose would be under additional strain.
Don't be surprised if you get block carbs/injectors, or oil/coolant leaks due to dried out gaskets. Make sure the coolant and hydraulic levels are OK before trying to start.
Don't be surprised if the clutch or brakes have seized on.
Don't be surprised if you get block carbs/injectors, or oil/coolant leaks due to dried out gaskets. Make sure the coolant and hydraulic levels are OK before trying to start.
Don't be surprised if the clutch or brakes have seized on.
As above, make sure you can turn over the engine by hand, then drain and put new fuel in and try to start it.
If it starts take it for a MOT.
I have one of these and until you have passed a MOT you might be spending money not needed.
If it passes then a timing belt change would be a good idea, with oil and filter change.
If it doesn't pass then you will have enough information to decide what to do next.
If it starts take it for a MOT.
I have one of these and until you have passed a MOT you might be spending money not needed.
If it passes then a timing belt change would be a good idea, with oil and filter change.
If it doesn't pass then you will have enough information to decide what to do next.
Hawkshaw said:
Dan_The_Man said:
+1
This. It will probably need the new battery, or just jump leads, but it may well be absolutely fine!As above. Connect up the new battery, turn the key and go for it.
I inherited my FIL's Skoda Fabia that had sat in a garage for a similar length of time. The tyres were low but not flat. It had been left with the handbrake on but thankfully not stuck on. All I needed to do was inflate the tyres, connect a jump pack (as the battery was dead) and it started up with the first turn on old petrol.
I just needed to clean the dust off so I could see out of the windows then drove it to the local garage for a service and MOT. Even they weren't convinced it really needed servicing (and a brake fluid change) as it had only done a couple of thousand miles since they did it last, but as I was about to drive it 300 miles home it seemed the sensible option...
Modern, but not too modern cars are much more resilient than the cars of old (I would hope the TF would be in the modern bracket).
I inherited my FIL's Skoda Fabia that had sat in a garage for a similar length of time. The tyres were low but not flat. It had been left with the handbrake on but thankfully not stuck on. All I needed to do was inflate the tyres, connect a jump pack (as the battery was dead) and it started up with the first turn on old petrol.
I just needed to clean the dust off so I could see out of the windows then drove it to the local garage for a service and MOT. Even they weren't convinced it really needed servicing (and a brake fluid change) as it had only done a couple of thousand miles since they did it last, but as I was about to drive it 300 miles home it seemed the sensible option...
Modern, but not too modern cars are much more resilient than the cars of old (I would hope the TF would be in the modern bracket).
Hawkshaw said:
Dan_The_Man said:
+1
This. It will probably need the new battery, or just jump leads, but it may well be absolutely fine!All we did was clear the mouse’s nest off the engine, fit a battery and it fired up and ran OK.
Cleaned all the moss off the windows, fit two wiper blades and drove it to the MOT bay, where it passed.
I'm not convinced by the whole pulling of the fuel pump fuse thing some people do and then cranking it on the starter. I'd back this up by saying, when I've tried it, it's a real struggle to get the oil light off. Whereas firing the motor up properly, oil light is usually gone in less than a second.
I always figure get the motor running and up to fast idle speed as promptly as you reasonably can. This builds good oil pressure, good oil flow, gives you "splashing" of oil off the crank (some motors use this to lube the cam), get's nice cyclic loads going on the cam followers (especially critical on flat tappet motors), puts enough rpm into the oil pump that it's pumping a "proper" amount of oil and so forth.
(I know not all the things I listed are applicable to all engines)
I always figure get the motor running and up to fast idle speed as promptly as you reasonably can. This builds good oil pressure, good oil flow, gives you "splashing" of oil off the crank (some motors use this to lube the cam), get's nice cyclic loads going on the cam followers (especially critical on flat tappet motors), puts enough rpm into the oil pump that it's pumping a "proper" amount of oil and so forth.
(I know not all the things I listed are applicable to all engines)
Captain Answer said:
Hawkshaw said:
Dan_The_Man said:
+1
This. It will probably need the new battery, or just jump leads, but it may well be absolutely fine!K-series cambelts are made of chocolate and advice is to replace them every 3 years regardless of mileage. It will probably start, but you are risking the engine if the belt lets go.
Seized alternators are also a frequent issue with stored F/TFs... Whilst you don't need it to charge for a short journey you don't want it to drag against the belt either. So make sure it spins.
GretaGray said:
snip
I am aware I will have to remove the petrol and have bought a siphon to do so, before I start it but what else should I be considering to do?
(Snip)
I have seen oil removal pumps with the tube you insert into the dipstick but do not know how effective these are, particularly on a cold engine.
I know you don't want to get a mechanic out, but there are some mobile MG mechanics who will do a full service Inc belt for under £300.I am aware I will have to remove the petrol and have bought a siphon to do so, before I start it but what else should I be considering to do?
(Snip)
I have seen oil removal pumps with the tube you insert into the dipstick but do not know how effective these are, particularly on a cold engine.
The petrol is probably fine. I have drained the tank in a TF and TBH I wouldn't recommend it as a first home mechanic job.
Oil, something to be aware of is the oil filler next to the dipstick is only intended for topping up. It's a tiny little tube. To get to the engine for servicing the rear of the soft top swings forwards and an inspection panel comes out. There's a "proper" oil filler hidden away there.
I started a car which had been sat for 3 years. It was a megane 1.6. The engine started on the nail (with fresh battery) even with the old fuel. The rear brakes were seized solid though, needed replacing. Left black marks up the driveway as I drove it, dragging its sorry seized ass into the garage and thence onto an MOT which it passed (then straight to gumtree).
5 years since being parked up doesn't necessarily mean 5 years since something was replaced nor that it was in GWO when it was parked up.
EDIT: first thing would be checking all fluid levels above minimum.
Personally plugs out, few drops of oil in each cylinder, turn over on crank pulley with spanner/socket to make sure engine, water pump and alternator move freely.
Once happy check condition of cambelt and tension, if in doubt then is time to change belt, tensioner and water pump.
Then go around fuel system making sure no leaks, I'd refresh fuel before first start assuming you not trying to move it and flush out carbs.
Quick check on electrics checking ignition and switches (parked cars are great mouse houses and they love a chew).
Then give it a go cranking over on a nice fresh battery.
Before moving under power I'd be checking brakes haven't bound on, that there are no leaks under pressure and that the fluid hasn't totally gone. Also check the handbrake will hold the car and preferably stop it if it starts rolling.
Unfortunately all of above are from experience. Last thing you want is a cambelt jumping (less of an issue on a non-interference engine) or to get it moving and find you cannot stop.
EDIT: first thing would be checking all fluid levels above minimum.
Personally plugs out, few drops of oil in each cylinder, turn over on crank pulley with spanner/socket to make sure engine, water pump and alternator move freely.
Once happy check condition of cambelt and tension, if in doubt then is time to change belt, tensioner and water pump.
Then go around fuel system making sure no leaks, I'd refresh fuel before first start assuming you not trying to move it and flush out carbs.
Quick check on electrics checking ignition and switches (parked cars are great mouse houses and they love a chew).
Then give it a go cranking over on a nice fresh battery.
Before moving under power I'd be checking brakes haven't bound on, that there are no leaks under pressure and that the fluid hasn't totally gone. Also check the handbrake will hold the car and preferably stop it if it starts rolling.
Unfortunately all of above are from experience. Last thing you want is a cambelt jumping (less of an issue on a non-interference engine) or to get it moving and find you cannot stop.
Edited by boombang on Wednesday 14th July 11:39
boombang said:
5 years since being parked up doesn't necessarily mean 5 years since something was replaced nor that it was in GWO when it was parked up.
EDIT: first thing would be checking all fluid levels above minimum.
Personally plugs out, few drops of oil in each cylinder, turn over on crank pulley with spanner/socket to make sure engine, water pump and alternator move freely.
Once happy check condition of cambelt and tension, if in doubt then is time to change belt, tensioner and water pump.
Then go around fuel system making sure no leaks, I'd refresh fuel before first start assuming you not trying to move it and flush out carbs.
Quick check on electrics checking ignition and switches (parked cars are great mouse houses and they love a chew).
Then give it a go cranking over on a nice fresh battery.
Before moving under power I'd be checking brakes haven't bound on, that there are no leaks under pressure and that the fluid hasn't totally gone. Also check the handbrake will hold the car and preferably stop it if it starts rolling.
Unfortunately all of above are from experience. Last thing you want is a cambelt jumping (less of an issue on a non-interference engine) or to get it moving and find you cannot stop.
Don't forget to change the brake discs, pads and fluids, fit new tyres, give it a full bodywork restoration, vac it out and polish the headlights, fit a new condenser, set the points and replace the coolant.EDIT: first thing would be checking all fluid levels above minimum.
Personally plugs out, few drops of oil in each cylinder, turn over on crank pulley with spanner/socket to make sure engine, water pump and alternator move freely.
Once happy check condition of cambelt and tension, if in doubt then is time to change belt, tensioner and water pump.
Then go around fuel system making sure no leaks, I'd refresh fuel before first start assuming you not trying to move it and flush out carbs.
Quick check on electrics checking ignition and switches (parked cars are great mouse houses and they love a chew).
Then give it a go cranking over on a nice fresh battery.
Before moving under power I'd be checking brakes haven't bound on, that there are no leaks under pressure and that the fluid hasn't totally gone. Also check the handbrake will hold the car and preferably stop it if it starts rolling.
Unfortunately all of above are from experience. Last thing you want is a cambelt jumping (less of an issue on a non-interference engine) or to get it moving and find you cannot stop.
Edited by boombang on Wednesday 14th July 11:39
You can never be too sure you know
Evoluzione said:
boombang said:
5 years since being parked up doesn't necessarily mean 5 years since something was replaced nor that it was in GWO when it was parked up.
EDIT: first thing would be checking all fluid levels above minimum.
Personally plugs out, few drops of oil in each cylinder, turn over on crank pulley with spanner/socket to make sure engine, water pump and alternator move freely.
Once happy check condition of cambelt and tension, if in doubt then is time to change belt, tensioner and water pump.
Then go around fuel system making sure no leaks, I'd refresh fuel before first start assuming you not trying to move it and flush out carbs.
Quick check on electrics checking ignition and switches (parked cars are great mouse houses and they love a chew).
Then give it a go cranking over on a nice fresh battery.
Before moving under power I'd be checking brakes haven't bound on, that there are no leaks under pressure and that the fluid hasn't totally gone. Also check the handbrake will hold the car and preferably stop it if it starts rolling.
Unfortunately all of above are from experience. Last thing you want is a cambelt jumping (less of an issue on a non-interference engine) or to get it moving and find you cannot stop.
Don't forget to change the brake discs, pads and fluids, fit new tyres, give it a full bodywork restoration, vac it out and polish the headlights, fit a new condenser, set the points and replace the coolant.EDIT: first thing would be checking all fluid levels above minimum.
Personally plugs out, few drops of oil in each cylinder, turn over on crank pulley with spanner/socket to make sure engine, water pump and alternator move freely.
Once happy check condition of cambelt and tension, if in doubt then is time to change belt, tensioner and water pump.
Then go around fuel system making sure no leaks, I'd refresh fuel before first start assuming you not trying to move it and flush out carbs.
Quick check on electrics checking ignition and switches (parked cars are great mouse houses and they love a chew).
Then give it a go cranking over on a nice fresh battery.
Before moving under power I'd be checking brakes haven't bound on, that there are no leaks under pressure and that the fluid hasn't totally gone. Also check the handbrake will hold the car and preferably stop it if it starts rolling.
Unfortunately all of above are from experience. Last thing you want is a cambelt jumping (less of an issue on a non-interference engine) or to get it moving and find you cannot stop.
Edited by boombang on Wednesday 14th July 11:39
You can never be too sure you know
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