The Joy of Running an Old Shed
Discussion
oOJamesOo said:
Does anyone know if you can get hold of completed auction prices for cars? I know you can check on eBay but wanting to compare against copart, manheim and bca. I guess there are fewer bidders but they probably know the values better. Just wondering whether it’s worth looking into for shedding.
eBay you can watch them then go back, BCA always had a strict policy on not giving that information out when I worked there (some years back) and I know Manheim did at the time - I wouldnt be surprised if that is still the sameEdited by oOJamesOo on Tuesday 7th July 21:46
At that time the only way at BCA was to be "in the room" i.e. at the actual auction or online bidding it live or on phone (not a thing now I believe at BCA)
If your non-trade BCA not quite so good now as it use to be, early 2000's you could turn up, bid and the private fee was pretty close to the trade fee and the prices of the cars were competitive however it's a lot more now for private and the prices of the cars are no where near as low as they use to be
CJ1 said:
I have sinned, I am swapping my shed for a new lease Renault Megane R.S....
If anyone’s interested in my Shed don’t hesitate to contact me. It’s a 2005 330i with £10,500 of extras. Comes with loads of paperwork and it’s original sales invoice from Barons Hindhead BMW for £38,000 in 2005!
Did you get the ABS sorted tho?If anyone’s interested in my Shed don’t hesitate to contact me. It’s a 2005 330i with £10,500 of extras. Comes with loads of paperwork and it’s original sales invoice from Barons Hindhead BMW for £38,000 in 2005!
Captain Answer said:
CJ1 said:
I have sinned, I am swapping my shed for a new lease Renault Megane R.S....
If anyone’s interested in my Shed don’t hesitate to contact me. It’s a 2005 330i with £10,500 of extras. Comes with loads of paperwork and it’s original sales invoice from Barons Hindhead BMW for £38,000 in 2005!
Did you get the ABS sorted tho?If anyone’s interested in my Shed don’t hesitate to contact me. It’s a 2005 330i with £10,500 of extras. Comes with loads of paperwork and it’s original sales invoice from Barons Hindhead BMW for £38,000 in 2005!
I was debating whether to swap my 106 shed for a 107. The 106 has proved a good reliable runaround. Ive just had two new tyres put in it and it needs the two fronts doing soon. I do like the 106 and for the £250 i paid, its still a bargain, BUT
It lacks power steering, which can be a pain
It leaks like a sieve in heavy rain, like now
it costs £160 odd to tax a year for the 1.1!
Pros of the 107 are, cheap tax, cheap to run, like the 106, and it probably won't leak like a sieve! But sometimes its better the devil you know.
I'll probably see if i can get the 106 though an mot and maybe run it for another year.
It lacks power steering, which can be a pain
It leaks like a sieve in heavy rain, like now
it costs £160 odd to tax a year for the 1.1!
Pros of the 107 are, cheap tax, cheap to run, like the 106, and it probably won't leak like a sieve! But sometimes its better the devil you know.
I'll probably see if i can get the 106 though an mot and maybe run it for another year.
James_N said:
I was debating whether to swap my 106 shed for a 107. The 106 has proved a good reliable runaround. Ive just had two new tyres put in it and it needs the two fronts doing soon. I do like the 106 and for the £250 i paid, its still a bargain, BUT
It lacks power steering, which can be a pain
It leaks like a sieve in heavy rain, like now
it costs £160 odd to tax a year for the 1.1!
Pros of the 107 are, cheap tax, cheap to run, like the 106, and it probably won't leak like a sieve! But sometimes its better the devil you know.
I'll probably see if i can get the 106 though an mot and maybe run it for another year.
Think you can resolve the leaks, that will be a pain as summer passes, a wet car will lead to mould and if parts are getting wet then failures.It lacks power steering, which can be a pain
It leaks like a sieve in heavy rain, like now
it costs £160 odd to tax a year for the 1.1!
Pros of the 107 are, cheap tax, cheap to run, like the 106, and it probably won't leak like a sieve! But sometimes its better the devil you know.
I'll probably see if i can get the 106 though an mot and maybe run it for another year.
I believe in "better the devil you know" but for me leaks are the spawn of Satan
Our shed 1 the T3 Corrolla needs a new rear caliper (sticking) and rear pads and discs. Let the local garage I trust sort it as it's chucking it down outside and I need a quick turn around. £276 supplied and fitted, brings me just over £1k now for the car and 10k miles so far. Still averages 38mpg overall 1.4 petrol and looks very tidy, bargain motoring.
V6todayEVmanana said:
James_N said:
I was debating whether to swap my 106 shed for a 107. The 106 has proved a good reliable runaround. Ive just had two new tyres put in it and it needs the two fronts doing soon. I do like the 106 and for the £250 i paid, its still a bargain, BUT
It lacks power steering, which can be a pain
It leaks like a sieve in heavy rain, like now
it costs £160 odd to tax a year for the 1.1!
Pros of the 107 are, cheap tax, cheap to run, like the 106, and it probably won't leak like a sieve! But sometimes its better the devil you know.
I'll probably see if i can get the 106 though an mot and maybe run it for another year.
Think you can resolve the leaks, that will be a pain as summer passes, a wet car will lead to mould and if parts are getting wet then failures.It lacks power steering, which can be a pain
It leaks like a sieve in heavy rain, like now
it costs £160 odd to tax a year for the 1.1!
Pros of the 107 are, cheap tax, cheap to run, like the 106, and it probably won't leak like a sieve! But sometimes its better the devil you know.
I'll probably see if i can get the 106 though an mot and maybe run it for another year.
I believe in "better the devil you know" but for me leaks are the spawn of Satan
Does it have a sunroof?
A couple of easy leak points to check are that the heater inlet under the wiper cover isn't full of crap, and the aerial in the roof. On the latter it's a doddle as you can pull the interior light unit out and it's right there for inspection. If the aerial is leaking just buy a new one rather than trying to bodge it with silicon, it never lasts.
V6todayEVmanana said:
James_N said:
I was debating whether to swap my 106 shed for a 107. The 106 has proved a good reliable runaround. Ive just had two new tyres put in it and it needs the two fronts doing soon. I do like the 106 and for the £250 i paid, its still a bargain, BUT
It lacks power steering, which can be a pain
It leaks like a sieve in heavy rain, like now
it costs £160 odd to tax a year for the 1.1!
Pros of the 107 are, cheap tax, cheap to run, like the 106, and it probably won't leak like a sieve! But sometimes its better the devil you know.
I'll probably see if i can get the 106 though an mot and maybe run it for another year.
Think you can resolve the leaks, that will be a pain as summer passes, a wet car will lead to mould and if parts are getting wet then failures.It lacks power steering, which can be a pain
It leaks like a sieve in heavy rain, like now
it costs £160 odd to tax a year for the 1.1!
Pros of the 107 are, cheap tax, cheap to run, like the 106, and it probably won't leak like a sieve! But sometimes its better the devil you know.
I'll probably see if i can get the 106 though an mot and maybe run it for another year.
I believe in "better the devil you know" but for me leaks are the spawn of Satan
As far as I am concerned, unless it is an easy fix such as blocked drain holes or leaking light seals a car is done once it starts leaking. If I go to look at a car and I see condensation on the inside of the windows I just walk away.
loskie said:
I had the same with a brand new Volvo in 2009, a few years on it led to rust on the tailgate, of course due to the incompetent main dealer this was rightfully not covered under warranty.
It's just another example of garages (is it mainly franchised dealers?) treating their customers and their property with contempt. Whilst not all are like this it is sadly a majority.
Professionals? Pah!
AFAIK and certainly in the dealers I worked at, you were specifically not allowed by the manufacturers to drill holes in metal bodywork to fit plates to new vehicles. It's just another example of garages (is it mainly franchised dealers?) treating their customers and their property with contempt. Whilst not all are like this it is sadly a majority.
Professionals? Pah!
Unless there was factory fitted threaded inserts, rears were stuck on using double sided pads specifically made for the purpose and fronts, in the main, were screwed to plastic, either plate plinths or bumpers.
Just booked my £600 Rover in for a £560 cambelt and water pump change.
Not very shed, but figured it was worth it for peace of mind that it doesn't snap on our staycation to Wales, plus a bit of man maths - cheapest 2.5 v6 on autotrader is still more than £600 + 560 (plus the price of the service and plugs), plus it is low mileage.
Not very shed, but figured it was worth it for peace of mind that it doesn't snap on our staycation to Wales, plus a bit of man maths - cheapest 2.5 v6 on autotrader is still more than £600 + 560 (plus the price of the service and plugs), plus it is low mileage.
Not sure where the best place is for this as it's an old Nova but in decent condition and isn't shed price.
Vauxhall Nova 1.3 SR on a Collecting Cars auction that ends tomorrow night. The current bid is... £7000!
https://collectingcars.com/for-sale/1986-vauxhall-...
What was the new list price of that in 1986?
Vauxhall Nova 1.3 SR on a Collecting Cars auction that ends tomorrow night. The current bid is... £7000!
https://collectingcars.com/for-sale/1986-vauxhall-...
What was the new list price of that in 1986?
PrinceRupert said:
Just booked my £600 Rover in for a £560 cambelt and water pump change.
Not very shed, but figured it was worth it for peace of mind that it doesn't snap on our staycation to Wales, plus a bit of man maths - cheapest 2.5 v6 on autotrader is still more than £600 + 560 (plus the price of the service and plugs), plus it is low mileage.
It's a dilemma. You're invested now and any new issues weigh against your sunk cost, but equally if you're confident in the car then it's not a big spend over a couple of years.Not very shed, but figured it was worth it for peace of mind that it doesn't snap on our staycation to Wales, plus a bit of man maths - cheapest 2.5 v6 on autotrader is still more than £600 + 560 (plus the price of the service and plugs), plus it is low mileage.
My Golf is coming up to cambelt time (next 6 months or so) and probably wants a new DMF and DPF clean too.Or do I sell now and get something else.
ajprice said:
Not sure where the best place is for this as it's an old Nova but in decent condition and isn't shed price.
Vauxhall Nova 1.3 SR on a Collecting Cars auction that ends tomorrow night. The current bid is... £7000!
https://collectingcars.com/for-sale/1986-vauxhall-...
What was the new list price of that in 1986?
£5199 in 1984 apparently.Vauxhall Nova 1.3 SR on a Collecting Cars auction that ends tomorrow night. The current bid is... £7000!
https://collectingcars.com/for-sale/1986-vauxhall-...
What was the new list price of that in 1986?
W00DY said:
It's a dilemma. You're invested now and any new issues weigh against your sunk cost, but equally if you're confident in the car then it's not a big spend over a couple of years.
My Golf is coming up to cambelt time (next 6 months or so) and probably wants a new DMF and DPF clean too.Or do I sell now and get something else.
In all honesty, if it was just over a little on time but not miles, I'd risk it, but given I have no history, it could be on its original belt for I know even though it remains under on miles. There is a long and funny debate on the Rover forums about whether or not you need to change the belts on time but not miles - one chap who changed his after 19 years adamant you didn't need too, others not so sure. I just figure that with the belts done, it must be worth a bit more than £600, so even if I sell it in 12 months time, i shouldn't be massively out of pocket - and so it is worth it for peace of mind.My Golf is coming up to cambelt time (next 6 months or so) and probably wants a new DMF and DPF clean too.Or do I sell now and get something else.
PrinceRupert said:
Just booked my £600 Rover in for a £560 cambelt and water pump change.
Not very shed, but figured it was worth it for peace of mind that it doesn't snap on our staycation to Wales, plus a bit of man maths - cheapest 2.5 v6 on autotrader is still more than £600 + 560 (plus the price of the service and plugs), plus it is low mileage.
You've effectively bought a 75 V6 with a new cam belt for £1200. You'll feel a lot more relaxed driving the car knowing that it's done. Money well spent.Not very shed, but figured it was worth it for peace of mind that it doesn't snap on our staycation to Wales, plus a bit of man maths - cheapest 2.5 v6 on autotrader is still more than £600 + 560 (plus the price of the service and plugs), plus it is low mileage.
MrGTI6 said:
You've effectively bought a 75 V6 with a new cam belt for £1200. You'll feel a lot more relaxed driving the car knowing that it's done. Money well spent.
Indeed :-) It turns out the UK's pre-eminent 75 specialist's garage is 17 minutes away from our staycation accommodation in Wales in August ...
Do I risk a five hour drive on the current belt to get him to do the work (plus give the car a once over and let me know what else might need done)? Knowing my luck it would snap on the M25
My experience is that belts will snap due to over time, but it's not a big risk - 20 or 30% is fine, double is pushing it.
I have tended to find that the mileage limit is more critical.
I removed a Pug camblet once that had split lengthways along the belt, and had frayed the one half. This was about 3k over mileage limit, and must have been very very close to letting go.
I have tended to find that the mileage limit is more critical.
I removed a Pug camblet once that had split lengthways along the belt, and had frayed the one half. This was about 3k over mileage limit, and must have been very very close to letting go.
bearman68 said:
My experience is that belts will snap due to over time, but it's not a big risk - 20 or 30% is fine, double is pushing it.
I have tended to find that the mileage limit is more critical.
I removed a Pug camblet once that had split lengthways along the belt, and had frayed the one half. This was about 3k over mileage limit, and must have been very very close to letting go.
My concern is I don't know how old the cambelt is - it could be 19 years old. Even though it only has 55k miles on the clock, with a 90k interval. I have tended to find that the mileage limit is more critical.
I removed a Pug camblet once that had split lengthways along the belt, and had frayed the one half. This was about 3k over mileage limit, and must have been very very close to letting go.
Joey Deacon said:
Captain Answer said:
CJ1 said:
I have sinned, I am swapping my shed for a new lease Renault Megane R.S....
If anyone’s interested in my Shed don’t hesitate to contact me. It’s a 2005 330i with £10,500 of extras. Comes with loads of paperwork and it’s original sales invoice from Barons Hindhead BMW for £38,000 in 2005!
Did you get the ABS sorted tho?If anyone’s interested in my Shed don’t hesitate to contact me. It’s a 2005 330i with £10,500 of extras. Comes with loads of paperwork and it’s original sales invoice from Barons Hindhead BMW for £38,000 in 2005!
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