Help!! Car outside and door won't close/bounces

Help!! Car outside and door won't close/bounces

Author
Discussion

flyingdutchie

Original Poster:

683 posts

142 months

Sunday 10th November
quotequote all
Hi Guys,

When I wanted to close the door, it bounced back. Alarm went off. The control box in the boot kept clicking as if it wanted to open the door. Battery was not strong. Now on charger. I tried to open the claw of the lock with a screw driver, so it would fall rightinto it, but it keeps bouncing back. Is there a simple way of resetting something, so it works again?

flyingdutchie

Original Poster:

683 posts

142 months

Sunday 10th November
quotequote all
Found it..... I also used the cable in the boot to open the drivers door, but i forgot to push it back after i pulled it......

Mr Cerbera

4,321 posts

178 months

Monday 11th November
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Hi Arjen,

Might be a good time to stick a load of WD40 down the boot-door, boot lid and throttle cable mechanisms before the winter gets too much of a grip thumbup

tejr

1,194 posts

112 months

Monday 11th November
quotequote all
I was going to suggest it sounds like what happens when you pull the emergency pull, but you already sorted it. Used to happen when I used the door pull in my old one. Had to press the wing mirror button with the door open to 'reset' the system before it'd close again.

Was a good reminder for me to try mine. Hadn't checked they were all working in the current Cerb until your reminder. The one in the boot was ceased in the old one. smile

Gerradi

562 posts

68 months

Monday 11th November
quotequote all
flyingdutchie said:
Found it..... I also used the cable in the boot to open the drivers door, but i forgot to push it back after i pulled it......
What ...the secret one

flyingdutchie

Original Poster:

683 posts

142 months

Sunday 17th November
quotequote all
Guys….. there is still a problem. When I want to open the drivers door, I hear the ECU in the boot clicking but it does not release the door. The same whern I try the button on the inside on the door. So… it opens when operating the (secret) cable and can can also close it again. Is there a way to reset the doorsystem by pressing the mirror button?

V8fan

2,546 posts

216 months

Sunday 17th November
quotequote all
It sounds like it is probably the release solenoid.

On my last Cerbera, I had to remove the passenger door mirror to clean connections inside the door (if you swivel the mirror body, there are 2 bolts that are not too difficult to access). The release button is simply a 2 wire push switch providing a closed circuit. It has no other function that I could see.

Penelope Stopit

5,438 posts

57 months

Monday 18th November
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Need to get to the door card off and test the central locking circuit

CerbWill

473 posts

66 months

Tuesday 19th November
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The door opening solenoid isn't in the door. Remove the trim panel just aft of the door with the rear speaker in it and you should see the solenoid. From there you can test whether it's getting power or not.

Penelope Stopit

5,438 posts

57 months

Tuesday 19th November
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Might help

Adrian@

3,715 posts

230 months

Tuesday 19th November
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Might not ...as again you are talking door wiring. where as you need to looking at door post wiring.
https://www.facebook.com/kentTVR/posts/chimaera-do... as CerbWill mentions. (The Cerbera is the same). A@

CerbWill

473 posts

66 months

Tuesday 19th November
quotequote all
Indeed. As flyingdutchie mentions he can hear the control box in the boot clicking away we know the door wiring works. A signal is getting from the door switch to the control box. The clicking is a relay in the control box trying to activate the door release solenoid. Next step is clearly to check power to the solenoid which, as mentioned, is in the door post, not the door. The mechanism could also just be a bit stiff/gummed up so you may find a simple clean of the lock mechanism itself does the trick. It can be tested using a screwdriver to replicate the striker fitted to the rear of the door that engages with the lock.

Byker28i

20,667 posts

165 months

Tuesday 19th November
quotequote all
V8fan said:
It sounds like it is probably the release solenoid.

On my last Cerbera, I had to remove the passenger door mirror to clean connections inside the door (if you swivel the mirror body, there are 2 bolts that are not too difficult to access). The release button is simply a 2 wire push switch providing a closed circuit. It has no other function that I could see.
Note: No need to do this, the mirror pops off (carefully) giving access.
However, as stated the solonoid is in the panel by the rear seat. Be careful of sharp fibreglass in that area.

Also for future reference - if you take the doorcard off (it's heavy) then the connectors inside the door are a common problem area. They get corroded. Easy to use a small round file, fibre pen and small instrument screwdriver to release the pins and clean them up. Pull out the plastic tab, then pop out the pins. I recommend taking a photo of the wiring colours/pin locations before you take them out and only take out one at a time.

I think I have to clean mine up every couple of years, symptoms are usually intermittent door operation

Penelope Stopit

5,438 posts

57 months

Tuesday 19th November
quotequote all
flyingdutchie said:
Hi Guys,

When I wanted to close the door, it bounced back. Alarm went off. The control box in the boot kept clickingas if it wanted to open the door. Battery was not strong. Now on charger. I tried to open the claw of the lock with a screw driver, so it would fall rightinto it, but it keeps bouncing back. Is there a simple way of resetting something, so it works again?
Yes, may help always did = may not help

Took the post to mean that a control box relay was chattering

Was thinking in terms of a short/semi short across a door Lock/Unlock switch or reed switch possibly interfering with the operation

which now has got me thinking that there is a better way of checking the circuit through

All inputs and outputs can be checked in the boot

Good points made above if the relay isn't chattering

Adrian@

3,715 posts

230 months

Wednesday 20th November
quotequote all
Penelope Stopit said:
Yes, may help always did = may not help

Took the post to mean that a control box relay was chattering

Was thinking in terms of a short/semi short across a door Lock/Unlock switch or reed switch possibly interfering with the operation

which now has got me thinking that there is a better way of checking the circuit through

All inputs and outputs can be checked in the boot

Good points made above if the relay isn't chattering
TBH you have now moved into the boot and I think even pulling the controllers and testing circuits is beyond most DIY PH'er (not something to disturb for no reason either)...IMHO back to basics...cables dry, (esp the emergency one as it has mostly likely never been used before) solenoid failed, adjust door catch. These cost almost zero to clean/replace. A@

Penelope Stopit

5,438 posts

57 months

Wednesday 20th November
quotequote all
Adrian@ said:
Penelope Stopit said:
Yes, may help always did = may not help

Took the post to mean that a control box relay was chattering

Was thinking in terms of a short/semi short across a door Lock/Unlock switch or reed switch possibly interfering with the operation

which now has got me thinking that there is a better way of checking the circuit through

All inputs and outputs can be checked in the boot

Good points made above if the relay isn't chattering
TBH you have now moved into the boot and I think even pulling the controllers and testing circuits is beyond most DIY PH'er (not something to disturb for no reason either)...IMHO back to basics...cables dry, (esp the emergency one as it has mostly likely never been used before) solenoid failed, adjust door catch. These cost almost zero to clean/replace. A@
Should never underestimate a DIY PH'er

Typed a PH member by email through the complete wiring of a vehicle not so long ago all for free (Always free for PH), this particular person had no idea where to start, wiring rather than re-wiring as there was hardly nothing to start with

The job was very near to completion last time contact was made

Reckon anyone can be taught all I know with some time and effort, after all is said and done.......was ignorant myself until being taught the job

Anyway, taught plenty of people the job and they all got their much needed good grade exam results and certificates

Met many here at PH that have mentioned being clueless when it comes to electrical testing but wishing to have a go

Talked many through the circuits involved and had good results

Multimeters and test lamps do work wonders

Love sharing my knowledge with others and find it very satisfying when they manage a good fix

I Do believe that many use technical forums for advice because they do want to learn how to fix any problems on their vehicles

Testing and proving what the fault is has always been better than guessing and always will be

Regret that my suggestion of testing at the ECU in the boot may have bothered you in some way

Also regret not suggesting testing at the ECU in the boot sooner, should have done, we all overlook things at times don't we

Have a good day

Evolution comes with sharing knowledge





Adrian@

3,715 posts

230 months

Wednesday 20th November
quotequote all
PP, relevant in you post...I said 'most PH'ers' and I don't have a problem with you pointing the OP at the ECU...the rest is just you bigging yourself up AND that is a job for other people to do TBH.
The OP needs to ignore your advice and work on the basics first. A@

Penelope Stopit

5,438 posts

57 months

Wednesday 20th November
quotequote all
Adrian@ said:
PP, relevant in you post...I said 'most PH'ers' and I don't have a problem with you pointing the OP at the ECU...the rest is just you bigging yourself up AND that is a job for other people to do TBH.
The OP needs to ignore your advice and work on the basics first. A@
You're getting personal here and I don't do personal

Those that get personal on the internet do so when they have run out of other methods in attempting to achieve the unachievable

Don't need to big myself up in any way

Pointing out that sharing my knowledge here at PH has solved many electrical problems is not bigging myself up in any way

You advising anyone at PH to ignore my advice is another personal attack, it is the vehicle owners choice what to do, not yours

You mention "work on basics first"

Testing at the ECU is the first basic thing to do, all the circuits inputs and outputs can be checked at the ECU

You should be ashamed of yourself

Adrian@

3,715 posts

230 months

Wednesday 20th November
quotequote all
Nothing to be ashamed of here, and NOT one thing personal...YOU took it off TO a wiring problem ..in the door, THEN, when you were told the real problem was most likely in the door post (perhaps because you have never worked on a TVR you were not to know) and then, you have taken this off on a tangent to the ECU (perhaps again because you have never worked on a TVR, but, should know better)
Enough! Arjen ...if you need my help I am on my FB page, I have started a thread to simply test the electrical mechanics without taking the car apart. A@

Edited by Adrian@ on Wednesday 20th November 11:10

Penelope Stopit

5,438 posts

57 months

Wednesday 20th November
quotequote all
Adrian@ said:
Nothing to be ashamed of here, and NOT one thing personal...YOU took it off TO a wiring problem ..in the door, THEN, when you were told the real problem was most likely in the door post (perhaps because you have never worked on a TVR you were not to know) and then, you have taken this off on a tangent to the ECU (perhaps again because you have never worked on a TVR, but, should know better)
Enough! Arjen ...if you need my help I am on my FB page. A@
This is nothing other than another personal attack

Should have first advised the OP to test the inputs and outputs at the ECU, this is mentioned in an above post, it was idiotic of me to not advise the OP to test at the ECU

This is why it was later added in another post that testing could be carried out at the ECU in the boot

For you or anyone else to suggest that an unknown fault is at the door lock mechanism in the post is nothing but guessing, yes could be the fault but?

I'm miffed as to why you have a problem with my suggestions and as to why the personal attacks


Edited by Penelope Stopit on Wednesday 20th November 12:09