Resto/Mod Backdating costs...
Discussion
GT3Manthey said:
That looked good value, I'm not a fan of the Minilites, gold Campganola would work better.
Cheib said:
GT3Manthey said:
Cheib said:
I think restomods are very difficult cars to buy from dealers/auctions. You really need to understand the car, which specialists were used etc….personally think you can only really get that if you’re dealing with the owner. Personally I’d go down the hot rod route…so a standard car that has maybe an updated drivetrain and chassis. I’d rather buy a car where the money has been spent on making it better to drive rather than to look at with bigger wings/wheels etc…which all add weight unless you are spending huge money.
Partly agree . Would want a car that felt tight and had a lively engine but with the aesthetics of the older earlier cars .
I know Chris Harris ‘ Kermit’ sold around 18 months ago on CC’s for 97k .
Great looking car & with the right running gear plus 300 HP .
Only issue for me would be LHD
Personally I think an original car with a hot engine is the way to go. You could buy a T or an E for something around £100k and get someone like Prill Porsche to build you a very lively engine....2.2 twin plug etc. You don't need to go to Tuthill and pay daft prices for a 200 bhp 2.0 race spec engine.
I think you'd be surprised about how mice to drive one of those cars is with that kind of power.
The only thing is the good people are very busy.
this one came up today
https://www.pistonheads.com/buy/listing/12845563
"Significantly, all the important work has already been done. So you can enjoy it straight away, or use it as the perfect ‘blank canvas’ to add your personal touches. Maybe an RS lookalike with a ducktail? The possibilities are yours to explore."
https://www.pistonheads.com/buy/listing/12845563
"Significantly, all the important work has already been done. So you can enjoy it straight away, or use it as the perfect ‘blank canvas’ to add your personal touches. Maybe an RS lookalike with a ducktail? The possibilities are yours to explore."
julian987R said:
this one came up today
https://www.pistonheads.com/buy/listing/12845563
"Significantly, all the important work has already been done. So you can enjoy it straight away, or use it as the perfect ‘blank canvas’ to add your personal touches. Maybe an RS lookalike with a ducktail? The possibilities are yours to explore."
Lovely looking car that, looks like the buyer will be paying about 30% premium for the backdate (over a std but equally sorted car) - saying that some of the price will reflect that it’s from a well known specialist.https://www.pistonheads.com/buy/listing/12845563
"Significantly, all the important work has already been done. So you can enjoy it straight away, or use it as the perfect ‘blank canvas’ to add your personal touches. Maybe an RS lookalike with a ducktail? The possibilities are yours to explore."
A narrow bumper is nice but I’m not sure it trumps a centre twin exhaust
The costs for commissioning one of these has gone through the roof since about 2015. To the point where it's not financially viable in my opinion.
My Tutthill car cost about £50k ish in 2010 when it was done, plus donor car at £30k. That included full glass out re-spray, new 6 pot brakes with brake bias kit, 3.2 engine on Jenvey throttle bodies, complete re-trim, Recaro Pole Positions and lot, lots more.
To do this today would be about £150k plus donor car, if you're lucky.
Some of the companies doing these resto-mods produce cars that are nowhere near as complete as the Tutthill versions. A friend had one built to his spec 4 years ago and it was so poorly constructed, I told him to get JZM do a full in depth report on the car in order to present it to the company who built it, as they were not listening to his complaints. The report was so damning, with the threat of legal action he got his money back. Point of the story is be very careful who you choose to do the work.
The best way into one of these cars is to buy one a couple of years old that someone else has commissioned, that you like the look / spec of. Get a specialist to inspect it and if all checks out go for it. A properly built car is brilliant fun to own and drive.
My Tutthill car cost about £50k ish in 2010 when it was done, plus donor car at £30k. That included full glass out re-spray, new 6 pot brakes with brake bias kit, 3.2 engine on Jenvey throttle bodies, complete re-trim, Recaro Pole Positions and lot, lots more.
To do this today would be about £150k plus donor car, if you're lucky.
Some of the companies doing these resto-mods produce cars that are nowhere near as complete as the Tutthill versions. A friend had one built to his spec 4 years ago and it was so poorly constructed, I told him to get JZM do a full in depth report on the car in order to present it to the company who built it, as they were not listening to his complaints. The report was so damning, with the threat of legal action he got his money back. Point of the story is be very careful who you choose to do the work.
The best way into one of these cars is to buy one a couple of years old that someone else has commissioned, that you like the look / spec of. Get a specialist to inspect it and if all checks out go for it. A properly built car is brilliant fun to own and drive.
Edited by MrVert on Tuesday 25th January 09:12
MrVert said:
The costs for commissioning one of these has gone through the roof since about 2015. To the point where it's not financially viable in my opinion.
My Tutthill car cost about £50k ish in 2010 when it was done, plus donor car at £30k. That included full glass out re-spray, new 6 pot brakes with brake bias kit, 3.2 engine on Jenny throttle bodies, complete re-trim, Recaro Pole Positions and lot, lots more.
To do this today would be about £150k plus donor car, if you're lucky.
Some of the companies doing these resto-mods produce cars that are nowhere near as complete as the Tutthill versions. A friend had one built to his spec 4 years ago and it was so poorly constructed, I told him to get JZM do a full in depth report on the car in order to present it to the company who built it, as they were not listening to his complaints. The report was so damning, with the threat of legal action he got his money back. Point of the story is be very careful who you choose to do the work.
The best way into one of these cars is to buy one a couple of years old that someone else has commissioned, that you like the look / spec of. Get a specialist to inspect it and if all checks out go for it. A properly built car is brilliant fun to own and drive.
Simply stunning My Tutthill car cost about £50k ish in 2010 when it was done, plus donor car at £30k. That included full glass out re-spray, new 6 pot brakes with brake bias kit, 3.2 engine on Jenny throttle bodies, complete re-trim, Recaro Pole Positions and lot, lots more.
To do this today would be about £150k plus donor car, if you're lucky.
Some of the companies doing these resto-mods produce cars that are nowhere near as complete as the Tutthill versions. A friend had one built to his spec 4 years ago and it was so poorly constructed, I told him to get JZM do a full in depth report on the car in order to present it to the company who built it, as they were not listening to his complaints. The report was so damning, with the threat of legal action he got his money back. Point of the story is be very careful who you choose to do the work.
The best way into one of these cars is to buy one a couple of years old that someone else has commissioned, that you like the look / spec of. Get a specialist to inspect it and if all checks out go for it. A properly built car is brilliant fun to own and drive.
GT3Manthey said:
Nice car.
What so you anticipate a full repaint would cost ?
Depends what you mean by full repaint. Freshening up in same colour, back to bare metal, colour change etc. I don’t think you’d get anything done by the best people for less than £10k and if you’re starting to talk about bare metal without any metalwork you’re probably up towards £30k.What so you anticipate a full repaint would cost ?
I just think they’re very hard cars to buy. I had a deposit down on a grey “Tuthill” car that was advertised on Facebook….there was a bit of excitement about it on here a couple of years ago. Paid a deposit, want to see it at Tuthill went out in it with Mr Tuthill and walked away. It wasn’t what people now understand to be a Tuthill car by any stretch of the imagination. Was something they took over half way through for an established client. Car was a LHD shell that was converted to RHD , had been acid dipped (all before Turhill taking over). I was told by them that they used to acid dip cars themselves but have subsequently realised that this can later cause problems with rust because acid can get trapped in the roof welds and there’s nothing you can do about it.
If you’re buying a RHD car your problem is that unless it is say an Australian or South African car it will almost certainly have or have had rust….so you need to know who did what and how they did it during any repair work.
There’s a reason a lot of these cars seems to get sold with say 2000 miles on since they’ve been built.
I 100% think they best thing to do is find a solid original car which almost certainly means LHD (unless you want to spend £££) and then look to put a fettled engine in it and not much more. The car is set up and looked after properly will drive beautifully and will be a bast to drive down a country road. You do not need 300 bhp in an early car for it to be a brilliant and thrilling drive.
GT3Manthey said:
Thats just about perfect ....apart from being LHD
Have you spent much time driving aircolled 911's ? For me LHD is a positive as the driving position is so much better than RHD. I actively choose LHD aircooled for this reason ( I got terrible knee pain from teh RHD's I owned due to the offset pedals in RHD form ) . ( note nearly all my driving id B road / unclassified road fast driving ) hot66 said:
Have you spent much time driving aircolled 911's ? For me LHD is a positive as the driving position is so much better than RHD. I actively choose LHD aircooled for this reason ( I got terrible knee pain from teh RHD's I owned due to the offset pedals in RHD form ) . ( note nearly all my driving id B road / unclassified road fast driving )
Yes I bought a project from a dealer & had the engine rebuilt along with all other mechanicals which was LHD. I’ve had 4 air cooled 911’a in total so I do get them and appreciate what people think on the driving position being easier in LHD but I just found it didn’t work for me .
MrVert said:
The costs for commissioning one of these has gone through the roof since about 2015. To the point where it's not financially viable in my opinion.
My Tutthill car cost about £50k ish in 2010 when it was done, plus donor car at £30k. That included full glass out re-spray, new 6 pot brakes with brake bias kit, 3.2 engine on Jenvey throttle bodies, complete re-trim, Recaro Pole Positions and lot, lots more.
To do this today would be about £150k plus donor car, if you're lucky.
Some of the companies doing these resto-mods produce cars that are nowhere near as complete as the Tutthill versions. A friend had one built to his spec 4 years ago and it was so poorly constructed, I told him to get JZM do a full in depth report on the car in order to present it to the company who built it, as they were not listening to his complaints. The report was so damning, with the threat of legal action he got his money back. Point of the story is be very careful who you choose to do the work.
The best way into one of these cars is to buy one a couple of years old that someone else has commissioned, that you like the look / spec of. Get a specialist to inspect it and if all checks out go for it. A properly built car is brilliant fun to own and drive.
Nail on head. It quickly becomes uneconomical to build one properly today. I was lucky that I started and finished mine 2 years ago. Every facet of the build would be more expensive today. Personally, as I've said, buy a car that's already done. It's much cheaper. My Tutthill car cost about £50k ish in 2010 when it was done, plus donor car at £30k. That included full glass out re-spray, new 6 pot brakes with brake bias kit, 3.2 engine on Jenvey throttle bodies, complete re-trim, Recaro Pole Positions and lot, lots more.
To do this today would be about £150k plus donor car, if you're lucky.
Some of the companies doing these resto-mods produce cars that are nowhere near as complete as the Tutthill versions. A friend had one built to his spec 4 years ago and it was so poorly constructed, I told him to get JZM do a full in depth report on the car in order to present it to the company who built it, as they were not listening to his complaints. The report was so damning, with the threat of legal action he got his money back. Point of the story is be very careful who you choose to do the work.
The best way into one of these cars is to buy one a couple of years old that someone else has commissioned, that you like the look / spec of. Get a specialist to inspect it and if all checks out go for it. A properly built car is brilliant fun to own and drive.
Edited by MrVert on Tuesday 25th January 09:12
MrVert said:
The costs for commissioning one of these has gone through the roof since about 2015. To the point where it's not financially viable in my opinion.
My Tutthill car cost about £50k ish in 2010 when it was done, plus donor car at £30k. That included full glass out re-spray, new 6 pot brakes with brake bias kit, 3.2 engine on Jenvey throttle bodies, complete re-trim, Recaro Pole Positions and lot, lots more.
To do this today would be about £150k plus donor car, if you're lucky.
............
Dam you, it's stunning cars like yours that drive me to thoughts of selling mine and upgrading.My Tutthill car cost about £50k ish in 2010 when it was done, plus donor car at £30k. That included full glass out re-spray, new 6 pot brakes with brake bias kit, 3.2 engine on Jenvey throttle bodies, complete re-trim, Recaro Pole Positions and lot, lots more.
To do this today would be about £150k plus donor car, if you're lucky.
............
LeakUpTest said:
Nail on head. It quickly becomes uneconomical to build one properly today. I was lucky that I started and finished mine 2 years ago. Every facet of the build would be more expensive today. Personally, as I've said, buy a car that's already done. It's much cheaper.
So have they become so popular that people can just bake a lot more profit into the various workstreams? Maybe it will become cheaper again at some point Theres huge margins on parts. As I alluded to earlier, there are a select few parts suppliers that charge extortionate amounts for seemingly simple parts. But, they have a monopoly. I paid £450 for custom door handles, when they arrived they were simple, s
tty bits of bolster wood. The ali plate across the middle of the dash is eye wateringly expensive and its just a simple plate with holes cut out. The interior is incredibly expensive to put together well, items such as heating controls, indicator stalks etc are not cheap. Then you have the engine, exhaust, fuelling, body panels, paint, suspension, wheels, brakes, tuning/rolling road, geo and labour. It soon runs out of control. I was £100k in and didn't even have a running car.
But I have a car I will never part with, i love everything about it.
tty bits of bolster wood. The ali plate across the middle of the dash is eye wateringly expensive and its just a simple plate with holes cut out. The interior is incredibly expensive to put together well, items such as heating controls, indicator stalks etc are not cheap. Then you have the engine, exhaust, fuelling, body panels, paint, suspension, wheels, brakes, tuning/rolling road, geo and labour. It soon runs out of control. I was £100k in and didn't even have a running car. But I have a car I will never part with, i love everything about it.
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