Discussion
catfishdb said:
Hi Graham,
The chassis was first zinc coated, not hot dipped but a sprayed on application before the powdercoat. The added protection couldn't hurt. It is tough because I have seen the fabricator have to grind away at a different chassis to weld on some missed brackets. I would elaborate on the process if I knew more about it.
Arthur
The chassis was first zinc coated, not hot dipped but a sprayed on application before the powdercoat. The added protection couldn't hurt. It is tough because I have seen the fabricator have to grind away at a different chassis to weld on some missed brackets. I would elaborate on the process if I knew more about it.
Arthur
Hi Arthur, how did you prepare for the zinc - sand-, shot-, soda-, walnut shell- etc. blasting?
GB
Thats looking so sweet, looking forward to seeing how how you get on with it.
Im planning to to a boady off of my Taimar this winter and want to sort and strengthen the chassis and rebush the suspention and run now fuel and brake lines.
What engine have you gone for and what alloys have you got in the rolling chassis as they look rather nice too...
Cambelt
Im planning to to a boady off of my Taimar this winter and want to sort and strengthen the chassis and rebush the suspention and run now fuel and brake lines.
What engine have you gone for and what alloys have you got in the rolling chassis as they look rather nice too...
Cambelt
oldgeebee said:
Hi Arthur, how did you prepare for the zinc - sand-, shot-, soda-, walnut shell- etc. blasting?
GB
There have been a couple of extra braces added at the tunnel sides near the transmission. As well as gussets added where the suspension arms are connected to the frame. I was not happy with the original hand brake action so an aftermarket unit was used that will actually apply useful braking pressure. The new unit's cable interfered with one of the upper tubes in the tunnel area so a notch was created to solve this. I will post a couple of images tomorrow that show what I have just mentioned.
Arthur
Campbell said:
Thats looking so sweet, looking forward to seeing how how you get on with it.
Im planning to to a boady off of my Taimar this winter and want to sort and strengthen the chassis and rebush the suspention and run now fuel and brake lines.
What engine have you gone for and what alloys have you got in the rolling chassis as they look rather nice too...
Cambelt
CampbellIm planning to to a boady off of my Taimar this winter and want to sort and strengthen the chassis and rebush the suspention and run now fuel and brake lines.
What engine have you gone for and what alloys have you got in the rolling chassis as they look rather nice too...
Cambelt
This is the sort of angle you have to get the body at to go on or off to clear the foot wells.....

this is mine going back on to MY250GT's rolling chassis. And I have the other set of those wheels , compomotives made to specified offset.
Cheers
Geoff.
The only problem with doing that is you will be able to see the white wishbones and red chassis thru them , not sure that will look so good. I think they will be better used on the next project....what ever that will be.
For this one I might just polish up the turbo vane wheels it has on it now and see how it looks.
Or the T-slots still look good when polished up...

Will let the thread get back to original topic now.
For this one I might just polish up the turbo vane wheels it has on it now and see how it looks.
Or the T-slots still look good when polished up...

Will let the thread get back to original topic now.
Campbell said:
What engine have you gone for and what alloys have you got in the rolling chassis as they look rather nice too...
Cambelt
It is a typical 1986 Ford 302 H.O. V8. Only worked a minor bit. Expected output at 300hp. I always wanted the burble of a V8. You just can't beat that sound.Cambelt
The wheels were purchased from my250gt, special offset 17" Compomotives.

metisse said:
How about the temperature under the bonnet? don't you ekspect trouble's ?
Part of the reason to remove the spare was to instal a larger radiator. The headers are stainless that have been ceramic coated to lower the under bonnet temp. Of course the heat has to go somewhere so it will just get hotter under the car. 
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