3428TM Build Log
Discussion
Moto said:
With the ideas around adding in additional chassis tubes, what is your objective for doing this?
When I rebuilt my chassis I found both top rails had cracked behind the engine mounts. I believe this was due to the twisting torque of the engine, so I added a stay bar from the top rail to the bell housing to spread the load then inserted & welded smaller diameter tubes inside the top tubes to strengthen them.
I'd be interested to know peoples thoughts on how forces from hard cornering act on the chassis.
Moto
I'm planning to add some kind of device to limit the engine from rotating, whether that will take the shape of a strap, or strut, or brace, I'm not sure yet. When I rebuilt my chassis I found both top rails had cracked behind the engine mounts. I believe this was due to the twisting torque of the engine, so I added a stay bar from the top rail to the bell housing to spread the load then inserted & welded smaller diameter tubes inside the top tubes to strengthen them.
I'd be interested to know peoples thoughts on how forces from hard cornering act on the chassis.
Moto
The M series cars are pretty stiff. The bodies contribute resistance to the twisting moment of the complete assembly. Still, I've increased the engine's potential torque capacity to over 460 Ft./Lbs., and that alone warrants additional reinforcing. Besides, I cut a big hole into the passenger foot box, which equates to lost stiffness that needs to be replaced. And yes, I'm also doing this to have an even more stable platform for the suspension to do its work during cornering.
With all of the in and out, I did a little bit of damage to the transmission output shaft seal. Specifically, to the dust boot that extends outward to the rear of the slip yoke UJ end.
Did my research and picked up the correct part. 7692S.
At least, that's what cross references to Tremec part # 2603979.
One problem is that the integral dust boot is quite different. It extends away from the seal much further than the part that that was installed in the transmission, when I bought it new. The other is that the dust boot ID is larger than the old part. This means that there's a gap between the boot and shaft part of the slip yoke.
Sooo, I spent Thursday evening and Friday morning at the auto parts store and on the phone with Tremec's tech support and with one of their dealers, as well as reading about the similar experience others have had.
Apparently, it's the right part and I was just wasting time.
The engine should have been in the chassis, by now. I'd be upset about the delay, but as it turns out, I managed to mangle my back while welding. By Friday morning the spasms were pretty awful and I went home from work. Hot water bottle, muscle relaxers, pain pills, rest. Less than 24 hours later, and I'm feeling 75% better. Hoping Monday is going to be the day!
Did my research and picked up the correct part. 7692S.
At least, that's what cross references to Tremec part # 2603979.
One problem is that the integral dust boot is quite different. It extends away from the seal much further than the part that that was installed in the transmission, when I bought it new. The other is that the dust boot ID is larger than the old part. This means that there's a gap between the boot and shaft part of the slip yoke.
Sooo, I spent Thursday evening and Friday morning at the auto parts store and on the phone with Tremec's tech support and with one of their dealers, as well as reading about the similar experience others have had.
Apparently, it's the right part and I was just wasting time.
The engine should have been in the chassis, by now. I'd be upset about the delay, but as it turns out, I managed to mangle my back while welding. By Friday morning the spasms were pretty awful and I went home from work. Hot water bottle, muscle relaxers, pain pills, rest. Less than 24 hours later, and I'm feeling 75% better. Hoping Monday is going to be the day!
Engine's back in the chassis.
With a 1/2” spacer under the transmission mount, the starter solenoid has about 1/2" clearance to the frame tube.
Driveshaft UJ angles are looking a bit much, so I may raise the engine by the same amount.
Next thing is to make a bracket for the pusher slave cylinder.
Almost time to hang ancillaries. Like tree ornaments, only more rewarding.
plasticpig1972 said:
The angle of output shaft on gearbox needs to be same as input on Diff. To keep UJs in phase.
Alan
UJs are in phase. The driveshaft came from The Driveshaft Shop and is a pretty Aluminium piece. I meant that the angle between the driveshaft center line and the transmission output shaft center line looks to severe, and the trans output shaft is parallel to the differential input shaft. Honestly, though, I should measure it. From memory three degrees is the minimum angle for the needle rollers to get enough movement. I can't remember the maximum safe angle for durability. Alan
ivanhoew said:
OODLES of room !
I hope to completely fill all three oodles with the really good stuff before the end of the week. Last night's chore was to grind away part of one of the transmission case radial reinforcing ribs to fit a 7/16 socket through. Now I can tighten all three starter bolts.
Every time I come home from working on it, I've been aware that that evening's work brought me one step closer to having this forever project finally running. I'm very grateful to those people who are helping/enabling me to keep progressing in that direction.
Edited by Slow M on Wednesday 29th November 17:34
GTRene said:
what does Porsche say? was it Porsche? function over looks or something like that 
if it works, looks fine to me and it sits under the car.
That may have been Frank Lloyd Porker, who said that. if it works, looks fine to me and it sits under the car.
Well, all of the most significant bits are back on, and I even remembered/intuited how the dry sump pump had to be mounted using the bracket/spacers I made about a century ago.I do have to admit that it goes from oodles of space to can barely get a hand in there in no time flat.
Either way, I'm happy with tonight's progress. Oil pump and belt shroud are back on.
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