Phoenix from the flames - Porsche Boxster with an Audi 2.7T
Discussion
I've got traction control, I've been doing some tuning on that and it's working really well. Whilst I was testing the the catch can set-up, I had the car unexpectedly break traction at 80mph, that focuses the mind somewhat! The TC took care of it and there were no dramas. I can calibrate it to allow different amounts of slip based on the speed, so in the lower gears I allow a bit more slip. You've got an allowed slippage and a maximum slippage, when you hit the maximum it pulls the ignition timing. It will step out a bit if you provoke it but nothing crazy, if it's dark it lights the road up behind the car when the TC kicks in. I've also got 3 separate settings for TC on a dash switch so I can change things to suit the conditions. I can't see me ever switching it off completely on the road, it's had my back a few times.
I had a slightly binding brake on the passenger side, had noticed there was more brake dust on that wheel compared to the other. I took the pads out and levered them all back individually, one was tight. Took the caliper off and removed the piston for an inspection.
P2051134
The piston didn't look great, it had what looked like a split in it and even with the seal removed, it was tight in the bore so the piston was out of shape. Not sure what caused this.
P2181175
Getting another piston wasn't that easy. They are VAG calipers. TPS would only sell me a complete caliper at £670 plus VAT. Nothing available in the aftermarket which seems odd as they are fitted to loads of cars. Found one place that could supply a Brembo piston but they were £140 each which is a bit strong. I bought a complete caliper which looks like it came off an accident damaged RS3 for £140, now I've got some spares.
P2181172
The caliper wasn't too bad, other than the damaged pin and a counter weight that was snapped off (which my calipers don't have anyway) it looked serviceable.
P2181173
I swapped the piston and the brake was still binding a bit, there was another piston that was slightly tighter but barely. I took the piston out, couldn't see anything wrong, cleaned it up and put it back in. Still tight, turns out it was the seal, I don't know why, not damaged, nothing behind it but it was just tight. Put a seal in from my spare caliper and it was fine then. Took a while messing about but finally sorted.
I also had what I thought was a warped disc. I've got a spare set of discs so took it apart to swap it over. The salt has taken it's toll on these.
P2181176
The new disc was still the same, had a warp. The wheel bearing had no play you could feel and felt fine but when I removed the disc from the hub and turned it slowly I could feel some roughness in one place. Must have been some play which made the disc feel warped. I decided I'd change both wheel bearings. This could have gone better, it's a time consuming job, you need various pullers, presses and a slide hammer, It wasn't made any easier by the fact I had 4 snapped bolts for the retaining plate on one side and 3 on the other side which I needed to drill out and tap new threads for.
P2231186
P2251187
P2251188
P2231185
Good news is what felt like a warp before has now gone so it was worth it.
P2051134The piston didn't look great, it had what looked like a split in it and even with the seal removed, it was tight in the bore so the piston was out of shape. Not sure what caused this.
P2181175Getting another piston wasn't that easy. They are VAG calipers. TPS would only sell me a complete caliper at £670 plus VAT. Nothing available in the aftermarket which seems odd as they are fitted to loads of cars. Found one place that could supply a Brembo piston but they were £140 each which is a bit strong. I bought a complete caliper which looks like it came off an accident damaged RS3 for £140, now I've got some spares.
P2181172The caliper wasn't too bad, other than the damaged pin and a counter weight that was snapped off (which my calipers don't have anyway) it looked serviceable.
P2181173I swapped the piston and the brake was still binding a bit, there was another piston that was slightly tighter but barely. I took the piston out, couldn't see anything wrong, cleaned it up and put it back in. Still tight, turns out it was the seal, I don't know why, not damaged, nothing behind it but it was just tight. Put a seal in from my spare caliper and it was fine then. Took a while messing about but finally sorted.
I also had what I thought was a warped disc. I've got a spare set of discs so took it apart to swap it over. The salt has taken it's toll on these.
P2181176The new disc was still the same, had a warp. The wheel bearing had no play you could feel and felt fine but when I removed the disc from the hub and turned it slowly I could feel some roughness in one place. Must have been some play which made the disc feel warped. I decided I'd change both wheel bearings. This could have gone better, it's a time consuming job, you need various pullers, presses and a slide hammer, It wasn't made any easier by the fact I had 4 snapped bolts for the retaining plate on one side and 3 on the other side which I needed to drill out and tap new threads for.
P2231186P2251187P2251188P2231185Good news is what felt like a warp before has now gone so it was worth it.
Edited by Escy on Saturday 26th February 00:45
In the last year I've spent £400 on wheel alignments and needed another one doing. The car is always in bits for one reason and another. I like doing stuff myself so started looking about for some second hand alignment gear. I was thinking I'd probably go for a laser system, like a Supertraker, they tend to be about £500-£750 used. I spotted a Hoffman Geoliner 480 advertised as spares or repairs on ebay, it had an issue with the computer, when the seller set it up for photos to sell it switched off and wouldn't come back on. I figured the computer was the easiest part of the system to repair/replace so chucked a bid in. Looks like nobody else was interested, I won it for £145 which I thought was a good buy. I picked up some used alignment plates/turntables for £200 from a local garage. So far so good, not had to sink much money into it.
The cabinet it came with was a bit on the large side, I managed to shoehorn it into a BMW X1.
PC010998
I also needed to shoehorn the cabinet into my garage, if you look closely at the side you can see my dodgy carpentry skills to make it fit. Everything fits inside the cabinet when I'm not using it. I just pull the screen out and plug it in when I want to use it.
P2271193
The computer powered up fine. I took it over to my mates and we copied the hard drive just in case it stopped working. It has turned off on me once in about 20 hours of use so it's a bit of a none issue. Probably needs a new power supply. Hoffman, John Bean and Snap-On all sell this same alignment equipment with just different branding, think it would have been top of the line back in it's day, probably in the 15-20k range. It's day was 2006 though! The guy I bought it off said he paid 3k for it 3 years ago. The software has all cars up to 2012. I could possibly update it but I'm not bothered.
P2271194
For anyone that knows, it's an 8 sensor CCD system. These are what the heads look like. For the fronts I need to use drop down brackets so the heads can see each other.
P2121155
P2131159
I was going to buy a steering wheel clamp but looking at what was around, most looked like a glorified caulk gun so I thought I'd make my own from one, just cut it up and welded on a bit of steel rod to hold the steering wheel and put some foam on the base. It works a treat.
P2161168
This is the alignment I did. It took me ages to do, learning the system, correct order to do things. As I'm doing it on the floor I need to jack it up and rotate the wheels for it to learn the runout on the wheel, that's a pain in the arse. The equipment put up a bit of a fight, was initially using the batteries but they are a bit iffy so I ended up plugging it all in. One of the sensors seemed to randomly stop working for a while. It's not been straight forward.
P2211184
P2211181
Those results look good. The problem is, every time I put the gear on, the values are way out from the previous time. Knowing exactly why is the question I need to solve. It could be the sensors are out of calibration (last done in 2013 according to the software), it could be operator error, maybe I'm not doing the run out correctly or something. One of the sensor heads seems to have some play on it's axis which I sorted out with an O-ring to put some pressure on it, that could be throwing things. One definite issue is the garage floor, it's not perfectly level. I went out for a drive after that alignment, it drove nicely. I put it back on the alignment gear and these were the readings on the front. It's saying the camber is 30 minutes off from before.
P2271191
I turned the car around and put it back in the garage the other way around. It's saying the camber is out 30 minutes on the other side. I'm putting that down to the floor. The toe is all over the place but the rear measurements were out also so that has an effect on it, I hadn't line it up or centred the steering wheel.
P2271192
That's where I'm at, I can't trust anything it says. I think the first thing I need to do is sort the floor out so it's all level so I can have a fighting chance. I could sink the alignment tables into the floor but that seems like hard work, I'll probably build steel ramps that mean I can roll the car on and off the turntables for the run out rather than jacking it up and rotating a wheel, I think that would improve things. So to sum it up, I'm probably pissing in the wind with it.
The cabinet it came with was a bit on the large side, I managed to shoehorn it into a BMW X1.
PC010998I also needed to shoehorn the cabinet into my garage, if you look closely at the side you can see my dodgy carpentry skills to make it fit. Everything fits inside the cabinet when I'm not using it. I just pull the screen out and plug it in when I want to use it.
P2271193The computer powered up fine. I took it over to my mates and we copied the hard drive just in case it stopped working. It has turned off on me once in about 20 hours of use so it's a bit of a none issue. Probably needs a new power supply. Hoffman, John Bean and Snap-On all sell this same alignment equipment with just different branding, think it would have been top of the line back in it's day, probably in the 15-20k range. It's day was 2006 though! The guy I bought it off said he paid 3k for it 3 years ago. The software has all cars up to 2012. I could possibly update it but I'm not bothered.
P2271194For anyone that knows, it's an 8 sensor CCD system. These are what the heads look like. For the fronts I need to use drop down brackets so the heads can see each other.
P2121155P2131159I was going to buy a steering wheel clamp but looking at what was around, most looked like a glorified caulk gun so I thought I'd make my own from one, just cut it up and welded on a bit of steel rod to hold the steering wheel and put some foam on the base. It works a treat.
P2161168This is the alignment I did. It took me ages to do, learning the system, correct order to do things. As I'm doing it on the floor I need to jack it up and rotate the wheels for it to learn the runout on the wheel, that's a pain in the arse. The equipment put up a bit of a fight, was initially using the batteries but they are a bit iffy so I ended up plugging it all in. One of the sensors seemed to randomly stop working for a while. It's not been straight forward.
P2211184P2211181Those results look good. The problem is, every time I put the gear on, the values are way out from the previous time. Knowing exactly why is the question I need to solve. It could be the sensors are out of calibration (last done in 2013 according to the software), it could be operator error, maybe I'm not doing the run out correctly or something. One of the sensor heads seems to have some play on it's axis which I sorted out with an O-ring to put some pressure on it, that could be throwing things. One definite issue is the garage floor, it's not perfectly level. I went out for a drive after that alignment, it drove nicely. I put it back on the alignment gear and these were the readings on the front. It's saying the camber is 30 minutes off from before.
P2271191I turned the car around and put it back in the garage the other way around. It's saying the camber is out 30 minutes on the other side. I'm putting that down to the floor. The toe is all over the place but the rear measurements were out also so that has an effect on it, I hadn't line it up or centred the steering wheel.
P2271192That's where I'm at, I can't trust anything it says. I think the first thing I need to do is sort the floor out so it's all level so I can have a fighting chance. I could sink the alignment tables into the floor but that seems like hard work, I'll probably build steel ramps that mean I can roll the car on and off the turntables for the run out rather than jacking it up and rotating a wheel, I think that would improve things. So to sum it up, I'm probably pissing in the wind with it.
Is there a mounting bracket that could allow you to 'hang' the sensors over the tyre?
Lifting and lowering the car will be squiffing your figures as the suspension will settle at a different point each time and is only 'true' once its settled following a drive.
The unlevel floor will give you inaccuracies but at least if you use the exact same spots for your tyres every time, they should be consistent
Lifting and lowering the car will be squiffing your figures as the suspension will settle at a different point each time and is only 'true' once its settled following a drive.
The unlevel floor will give you inaccuracies but at least if you use the exact same spots for your tyres every time, they should be consistent
If you want to level up your garage floor, try this stuff
https://www.watco.co.uk/products/watco-flowtop
It’s self levelling compound, but it’s heavy duty and will take the weight of a forklift. I have used it on a job once and can confirm it’s absolutely rock solid.
You need to find the highest point in you garage floor, set a laser to a nominal measurement above that, say 100mm and then dip the rest of the floor with a tape to see how far out it is and then you can calculate how much watco you will need.
It’s not cheap stuff but it works well!
https://www.watco.co.uk/products/watco-flowtop
It’s self levelling compound, but it’s heavy duty and will take the weight of a forklift. I have used it on a job once and can confirm it’s absolutely rock solid.
You need to find the highest point in you garage floor, set a laser to a nominal measurement above that, say 100mm and then dip the rest of the floor with a tape to see how far out it is and then you can calculate how much watco you will need.
It’s not cheap stuff but it works well!
30 minutes is 0.5 degrees
Mark-t said:
Is there a mounting bracket that could allow you to 'hang' the sensors over the tyre?
Lifting and lowering the car will be squiffing your figures as the suspension will settle at a different point each time and is only 'true' once its settled following a drive.
The unlevel floor will give you inaccuracies but at least if you use the exact same spots for your tyres every time, they should be consistent
I'm not happy with the raising and lowering of the car, it's a pain in the arse for a start and also adds the chance of variation. It is being lowered on plates that move and I'm bouncing the suspension but still liked to not settle 100%. If I have my alignment plates level with the floor, I can roll the car backwards to get the run out values.Lifting and lowering the car will be squiffing your figures as the suspension will settle at a different point each time and is only 'true' once its settled following a drive.
The unlevel floor will give you inaccuracies but at least if you use the exact same spots for your tyres every time, they should be consistent
Gtom said:
If you want to level up your garage floor, try this stuff
https://www.watco.co.uk/products/watco-flowtop
It’s self levelling compound, but it’s heavy duty and will take the weight of a forklift. I have used it on a job once and can confirm it’s absolutely rock solid.
You need to find the highest point in you garage floor, set a laser to a nominal measurement above that, say 100mm and then dip the rest of the floor with a tape to see how far out it is and then you can calculate how much watco you will need.
It’s not cheap stuff but it works well!
Thanks, I'll look into this. https://www.watco.co.uk/products/watco-flowtop
It’s self levelling compound, but it’s heavy duty and will take the weight of a forklift. I have used it on a job once and can confirm it’s absolutely rock solid.
You need to find the highest point in you garage floor, set a laser to a nominal measurement above that, say 100mm and then dip the rest of the floor with a tape to see how far out it is and then you can calculate how much watco you will need.
It’s not cheap stuff but it works well!
I had my car on a friends alignment ramp the other day and even rotating the wheels through some steering lock and back to center throws all the results out, after 3 times of doing this is was pretty much repeatable though. Different people at my friends place have differing views on whether this is the right way to do it as well, i was just doing as i've been told before 
You could probably do with something like a quickjack or other home garage lift and some tables for the plates that you can level so you're not jacking it up after each measurement/ adjustment and so that its all level, otherwise i cant see there being any repeatability. You'll be getting it somewhere near but it seems that you will get eaten up inside if the numbers arent perfect haha
You could probably do with something like a quickjack or other home garage lift and some tables for the plates that you can level so you're not jacking it up after each measurement/ adjustment and so that its all level, otherwise i cant see there being any repeatability. You'll be getting it somewhere near but it seems that you will get eaten up inside if the numbers arent perfect haha
I'm back by popular demand 
I haven't done an update as I've been mega busy on other stuff but not really making any progress with the Boxster. It's pretty much been sat doing nothing for the last few months. I don't want to use it while the alignment is out and risk killing the tyres. It's not out that badly but it feels a bit squirmy at the back when I put my foot down. I've bought another wheel alignment rig, this one is Beissbarth, similar vintage to the other one (2007) but looks better designed. I'm going to use both and compare, then I'll keep the one I like best and sell the other.
PXL_20220505_180228212
To solve my issue with the floor not being level, I've decided to make bases to sit my turn plates on. I'm going to make these so they are level and I'll bolt them to the floor every time I do an alignment. I've worked it all out in my head, just need to knock them up. I've started making them, hopefully finish them this weekend and get the alignment sorted finally. It's not really important so it's been at the back of the queue.
PXL_20220505_172339042
My plan was to get some bodywork stuff done in the Spring. I damaged by rear bumper when I reversed into the kerb by my garage. I found a sport design rear bumper (which is the OEM bodykit) on ebay, managed to find the correct spoiler for it (went carbon fibre as next to no chance finding an OEM one). The missing piece is the corner lips for the front bumper, went aftermarket for these. Ordered them in the middle of January, from carwebshop. They don't answer the phone or reply to emails so I don't know what's going on. Spoke to another vendor who sells the same part and they said they have orders that are from months back. A bit annoying because by the time they show up I need to book it into a bodyshop which I assume I'll need to wait a while for also. I wanted it looking all sharp for the summer.
I haven't done an update as I've been mega busy on other stuff but not really making any progress with the Boxster. It's pretty much been sat doing nothing for the last few months. I don't want to use it while the alignment is out and risk killing the tyres. It's not out that badly but it feels a bit squirmy at the back when I put my foot down. I've bought another wheel alignment rig, this one is Beissbarth, similar vintage to the other one (2007) but looks better designed. I'm going to use both and compare, then I'll keep the one I like best and sell the other.
PXL_20220505_180228212To solve my issue with the floor not being level, I've decided to make bases to sit my turn plates on. I'm going to make these so they are level and I'll bolt them to the floor every time I do an alignment. I've worked it all out in my head, just need to knock them up. I've started making them, hopefully finish them this weekend and get the alignment sorted finally. It's not really important so it's been at the back of the queue.
PXL_20220505_172339042My plan was to get some bodywork stuff done in the Spring. I damaged by rear bumper when I reversed into the kerb by my garage. I found a sport design rear bumper (which is the OEM bodykit) on ebay, managed to find the correct spoiler for it (went carbon fibre as next to no chance finding an OEM one). The missing piece is the corner lips for the front bumper, went aftermarket for these. Ordered them in the middle of January, from carwebshop. They don't answer the phone or reply to emails so I don't know what's going on. Spoke to another vendor who sells the same part and they said they have orders that are from months back. A bit annoying because by the time they show up I need to book it into a bodyshop which I assume I'll need to wait a while for also. I wanted it looking all sharp for the summer.
One comment that's cropped up throughout this thread is about my perseverance/enthusiasm. It's on the wane, starting to get the raving hump with it lately.
A few years back I posted up a picture of my Boxster with the 2.7t in a Facebook group for Porsche Engine Swaps. There was a chap that was not a fan of the Audi 2.7t bi-turbo and he didn't hold back in his criticism of the engine, it was along the lines of it's the most unreliable engine ever and a nightmare to service. He was listing all the weaknesses, oil leaks, timing chain tensioners, EGT sensors, engine out to replace turbos, front end off for a cambelt change, etc. He really hated the engine.
My counter argument was they are cheap and can make plenty of power, once you've been through all the jobs you are sorted. Great in theory but it's starting to piss me off, one thing after another. I don't know how much is bad luck, how much is incompetence on my part and how much is the engine making twice the power and living in an environment it wasn't designed for.
Last year I had a boost pipe pop off and it took out a cheap Chinese turbo. Parr for the course, you buy cheap, it's a risk. I was ok with it, an opportunity to pull the engine and go right through it. I stripped it down, replaced every gasket and seal in sight with genuine parts where they were available, spent a lot of money doing it.
My motivation comes from the fact I know how good it'll be when it's done. I love it, it punches well above it's weight in terms of performance to cost, I think it looks good, handles great, still as practical as a normal Boxster. It's got slightly more power than a GT4RS and over 100ft/lb more torque than one. The problem is, it's not finished and I'm starting to think it never will be. Whenever anyone asks me if it's done, the answer is I just need to fix some oil leaks and a bit of tuning and that's it, I've been saying that for over a year now.
I'm sick to death of oil leaks, I've put the cause down to crankcase pressure and I'm confident I've solved that now. To re-cap I connected the drain port of the catch can to my exhaust venturis, I'd rigged it up temporary in the last photos, this is done properly with AN fittings.
P5191344
P5191343
So now it's a case of fix the oil leaks and that should be it (it's the hope that kills you). I fitted a pair of new cam cover gaskets as this was the highest point I could see that was leaking.
P5141316
This didn't go well, turns out the metal part inside the seal on the old passenger side one came out and got left on the bolt so when I put the new one on, oil pissed out of it, all over the exhaust, oil everywhere and loads of smoke. I cleaned it all up and re-fitted the seal, it's still leaking. It seems once they get oil on them, that's it. One time use. I'm starting to get sick of it, I think I've been through about 8 sets of these seals over the past couple of years, that's 400-500 in cam cover seals alone. I've seen loads of these engines and they've all leaked oil from the cam covers, they are a poor design, just 6 bolts around the sides.
I also seem to have oil leaks elsewhere on the engine, possibly cam shaft seals which means cam belt off again. Since the last time the car was on the dyno, that cambelt has been on and off 4 times, that's less than a year and probably sub 500 miles, you can see why I'm starting to have enough. If I strip it all down and replace anything leaking, I have no faith it's going to stay sealed. I know what I've doing, I don't have these issues with other engines. I've bought a leak down tester to see how healthy the engine is, I'll post the results when I do it. If there is an engine issue, I have no appetite to do anything about it.
I went on a test drive today, a boost pipe popped off, by the time I got home I had smoke bellowing out of the drivers side air vent which I assumed to be oil leaking onto the exhaust manifold, which it is. On further inspection it also turns out my alternator has let the magic out.
P5221347
It looks like there could have been flames, there's burnt wiring. Guess I got lucky it seemed to happen right near my house. There were no signs, it was still outputting good voltage. I guess it's just expired from old age, I can file that in the bad luck category along with my one year old power steering pump that's done hardly any mileage that's pissing oil out. It's one thing after the other.
I'm at a bit of a crossroads with it, I need the garage for other stuff, I can't spend all my time working on it. If I don't sort it all out now, I think it gets mothballed for the next couple of months and the summers gone but I've not really got the time or desire...
Talking about time, I wasted a load building these bases for doing a wheel alignment.
P5131312
Tried out the new alignment rig I bought, this is the rear
P5151321
This is the front, ignore the red, I want -2 degrees camber.
P5151326
A few years back I posted up a picture of my Boxster with the 2.7t in a Facebook group for Porsche Engine Swaps. There was a chap that was not a fan of the Audi 2.7t bi-turbo and he didn't hold back in his criticism of the engine, it was along the lines of it's the most unreliable engine ever and a nightmare to service. He was listing all the weaknesses, oil leaks, timing chain tensioners, EGT sensors, engine out to replace turbos, front end off for a cambelt change, etc. He really hated the engine.
My counter argument was they are cheap and can make plenty of power, once you've been through all the jobs you are sorted. Great in theory but it's starting to piss me off, one thing after another. I don't know how much is bad luck, how much is incompetence on my part and how much is the engine making twice the power and living in an environment it wasn't designed for.
Last year I had a boost pipe pop off and it took out a cheap Chinese turbo. Parr for the course, you buy cheap, it's a risk. I was ok with it, an opportunity to pull the engine and go right through it. I stripped it down, replaced every gasket and seal in sight with genuine parts where they were available, spent a lot of money doing it.
My motivation comes from the fact I know how good it'll be when it's done. I love it, it punches well above it's weight in terms of performance to cost, I think it looks good, handles great, still as practical as a normal Boxster. It's got slightly more power than a GT4RS and over 100ft/lb more torque than one. The problem is, it's not finished and I'm starting to think it never will be. Whenever anyone asks me if it's done, the answer is I just need to fix some oil leaks and a bit of tuning and that's it, I've been saying that for over a year now.
I'm sick to death of oil leaks, I've put the cause down to crankcase pressure and I'm confident I've solved that now. To re-cap I connected the drain port of the catch can to my exhaust venturis, I'd rigged it up temporary in the last photos, this is done properly with AN fittings.
P5191344P5191343So now it's a case of fix the oil leaks and that should be it (it's the hope that kills you). I fitted a pair of new cam cover gaskets as this was the highest point I could see that was leaking.
P5141316This didn't go well, turns out the metal part inside the seal on the old passenger side one came out and got left on the bolt so when I put the new one on, oil pissed out of it, all over the exhaust, oil everywhere and loads of smoke. I cleaned it all up and re-fitted the seal, it's still leaking. It seems once they get oil on them, that's it. One time use. I'm starting to get sick of it, I think I've been through about 8 sets of these seals over the past couple of years, that's 400-500 in cam cover seals alone. I've seen loads of these engines and they've all leaked oil from the cam covers, they are a poor design, just 6 bolts around the sides.
I also seem to have oil leaks elsewhere on the engine, possibly cam shaft seals which means cam belt off again. Since the last time the car was on the dyno, that cambelt has been on and off 4 times, that's less than a year and probably sub 500 miles, you can see why I'm starting to have enough. If I strip it all down and replace anything leaking, I have no faith it's going to stay sealed. I know what I've doing, I don't have these issues with other engines. I've bought a leak down tester to see how healthy the engine is, I'll post the results when I do it. If there is an engine issue, I have no appetite to do anything about it.
I went on a test drive today, a boost pipe popped off, by the time I got home I had smoke bellowing out of the drivers side air vent which I assumed to be oil leaking onto the exhaust manifold, which it is. On further inspection it also turns out my alternator has let the magic out.
P5221347It looks like there could have been flames, there's burnt wiring. Guess I got lucky it seemed to happen right near my house. There were no signs, it was still outputting good voltage. I guess it's just expired from old age, I can file that in the bad luck category along with my one year old power steering pump that's done hardly any mileage that's pissing oil out. It's one thing after the other.
I'm at a bit of a crossroads with it, I need the garage for other stuff, I can't spend all my time working on it. If I don't sort it all out now, I think it gets mothballed for the next couple of months and the summers gone but I've not really got the time or desire...
Talking about time, I wasted a load building these bases for doing a wheel alignment.
P5131312Tried out the new alignment rig I bought, this is the rear
P5151321This is the front, ignore the red, I want -2 degrees camber.
P5151326Edited by Escy on Sunday 22 May 22:30
Then I put the other alignment kit on it and got completely different results
P5151330
P5151331
The plan was to go to Kwikfit and get a free alignment check and see what system is closer. I already know the answer is going to be they are both miles out. I thought it was a cool thing to have but it's just been a waste of time and money (just the steel to make those bases was £280). I bet I'll end up paying for an alignment anyway which is what I should have done in the first place.
P5151330P5151331The plan was to go to Kwikfit and get a free alignment check and see what system is closer. I already know the answer is going to be they are both miles out. I thought it was a cool thing to have but it's just been a waste of time and money (just the steel to make those bases was £280). I bet I'll end up paying for an alignment anyway which is what I should have done in the first place.
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