Hold(en) my beer - Monaro, Ute and Commodore content
Discussion
SturdyHSV said:
Yep the wagon is definitely feeling a little green, and it does need a supercharger one day 
That'll be getting an exhaust next, I have the exhaust, a defilipo 3 inch system, just need to get it booked in somewhere to fit as I don't think it'll bolt right up, although once the Monaro is off the lift I'll probably pick it up to have a look underneath and see.
Ro sounds great! Nothing beats a tuned Holden V8 That'll be getting an exhaust next, I have the exhaust, a defilipo 3 inch system, just need to get it booked in somewhere to fit as I don't think it'll bolt right up, although once the Monaro is off the lift I'll probably pick it up to have a look underneath and see.As for the wagon, assuming headers and cats are factory, and the exhaust is cat back, it should bolt on AFAIK).
Don’t blame me if it doesn’t though
Jader1973 said:
Ro sounds great! Nothing beats a tuned Holden V8
As for the wagon, assuming headers and cats are factory, and the exhaust is cat back, it should bolt on AFAIK).
Don’t blame me if it doesn’t though
The headers look to be a tri-Y setup so not factory, and the exhaust includes some cats, so I am sort of expecting to be out of luck with bolting up As for the wagon, assuming headers and cats are factory, and the exhaust is cat back, it should bolt on AFAIK).
Don’t blame me if it doesn’t though
Once the Ro is off the lift I'll lift the wagon up and have a nose about
Dyno session booked for Saturday 14th May to get it all run in and tuned up etc.
I've got some work to do!
I think the Ute has a dodgy ground, most likely the battery negative, as once I got into MK today, the more serious bumps in the road would trigger an ABS fault and / or check engine which would then disappear again after 5 seconds or so, not disconcerting at all whilst braking for a roundabout Was also flickering the dash / tacho so confident it's just a bit of dodgy grounding and the battery negative was a faff to get tightened up.
I've got some work to do!
I think the Ute has a dodgy ground, most likely the battery negative, as once I got into MK today, the more serious bumps in the road would trigger an ABS fault and / or check engine which would then disappear again after 5 seconds or so, not disconcerting at all whilst braking for a roundabout
Was also flickering the dash / tacho so confident it's just a bit of dodgy grounding and the battery negative was a faff to get tightened up.You mention flickering dash, does the battery light come on or flicker when the fault raises its ugly head?
If answer is yes, there's a good chance that the dash is momentarily losing its ignition supply
Anyway, great progress
Having someone in Australia working on the tuning proves that the internet does have its uses after all
If answer is yes, there's a good chance that the dash is momentarily losing its ignition supply
Anyway, great progress
Having someone in Australia working on the tuning proves that the internet does have its uses after all
Polly Grigora said:
You mention flickering dash, does the battery light come on or flicker when the fault raises its ugly head?
If answer is yes, there's a good chance that the dash is momentarily losing its ignition supply
Anyway, great progress
Having someone in Australia working on the tuning proves that the internet does have its uses after all
Other than the lights, it manifested only as the tacho needle shuddering a little, that's all I noticed anyway. I'm relatively familiar with dodgy dash behaviour as when I got the Ute, the owner before the guy I got it from had basically put a bullet connector into the speedo feed wire. So basically unplug that and you get no speedo input, so no mileage measured... I wonder why anyone would have wanted to do that... cough cough, limited mileage insurance policy....If answer is yes, there's a good chance that the dash is momentarily losing its ignition supply
Anyway, great progress
Having someone in Australia working on the tuning proves that the internet does have its uses after all
The dash cluster wasn't actually screwed down in place either, so that rattling about and the dodgy connector meant that the dash would semi-regularly lose its s
t and either send the speedo to max or zero for the remainder of the trip, and also meant the fuel guage and mileage remaining would always be all over the place. I tidied up this dodgy wire and actually screwed the dash down properly and it's been fine ever since.I checked at lunch, and it was in fact the positive connector to the battery that was a little loose, could freely wiggle it with my hand. Borrowed a ratchet and tightened it right up so it's secure now, will hopefully resolve it for the drive home.
Yeah having the tuner flashing my car from the other side of the world was quite cool!
Was trying to bleed the power steering (and thus also brake boost) system last night.
Was a bit unsure what the low pressure flow was like out of the brake booster, it's just a spitter so basically when you lift off the brakes it passes out some fluid.
I cobbled some clear pipe in line with the returns to see what was going on.
Didn't seem to be a lot of it coming out, certainly not enough that I'm concerned the pipework is any sort of restriction.
Little sus that the low pressure return from the power steering could travel up the T instead of into the reservoir, have ordered a larger diameter Y piece instead to try and encourage the flow to go back to the reservoir.
Half tempted to try and add a second return to the reservoir so I can pipe the brake return straight into it, but will need some sort of self sealing barb fitting job that I could put into the plastic...
Was a bit unsure what the low pressure flow was like out of the brake booster, it's just a spitter so basically when you lift off the brakes it passes out some fluid.
I cobbled some clear pipe in line with the returns to see what was going on.
Didn't seem to be a lot of it coming out, certainly not enough that I'm concerned the pipework is any sort of restriction.
Little sus that the low pressure return from the power steering could travel up the T instead of into the reservoir, have ordered a larger diameter Y piece instead to try and encourage the flow to go back to the reservoir.
Half tempted to try and add a second return to the reservoir so I can pipe the brake return straight into it, but will need some sort of self sealing barb fitting job that I could put into the plastic...
Have decided for the sake of simplicity I'm going to bang a barb bulkhead fitting into the side of the PS reservoir and just run the brake boost low pressure line directly back in to it.
I don't think the T is causing the odd behaviour given it still did it whilst it was running back independently as pictured above, but it won't be hard to do and it's a 'better' solution than a T fitting or Y fitting etc.
I don't think the T is causing the odd behaviour given it still did it whilst it was running back independently as pictured above, but it won't be hard to do and it's a 'better' solution than a T fitting or Y fitting etc.
Bank Holiday weekend, so makes sense to go to the tip, right?
Otherwise I've been playing Gran Turismo 7 a bit over the weekend, so slacked off a little, but I wanted to get some crucial bits ticked off the list so I had time in case of any problems.
Main thing was the fuel pump as depending on what sort of power it makes, the standard one may not be able to keep up. The DW300C is a drop in replacement that flows more than enough and I'd picked one up ages ago.
So, undo the fuel tank straps
Complete the big boot conversion...
Split the plastic case to gain access to the fuel pump
Pop the pump assembly out
The mystical "sludge at the bottom of the tank" doesn't seem to be a big deal, looks very clean in there
Pop the float off
Remove the bucket, little bit of dirt in there
Fiddle the fuel pump out, there's some awkward clips to get to, was easy enough to work out by looking at the replacement as a reference
The pickup supplied isn't exactly a direct fit so I had to reuse the one off the original pump that's made to conform to the shape of the bucket
All back together, o-rings and things swapped over, and time to go back in the car
I wanted to sort the intake tubing so the MAF can be removed, so chopped down some 4" silicon hose, use the jubilee clips as a cutting guide
Fits nicely. I also mounted a cheap vented catch can and ran the hose from the valley cover to the can. I don't expect this to really gather anything, but am curious, if there ends up a lot of crankcase pressure then it'll likely pick some up, so will be interesting to see.
I need to snip the MAF wires and extend the 2 IAT wires so that it can be routed neatly around the outside of the engine bay instead of sat over there like that, but that won't take long.
Valve covers are hopefully arriving in the next few days, and will be nipping over to Topspeed Automotive to pick them up.
Also dropped the rear wheels off for a new set of rears, 255/35 Michelin PS4S, as one was flat and they were both very old and very hard pilot super sports that were basically wooden anyway, great fun, but not useful on the dyno I suspect.
So the list is looking suitably on course, will extend the IAT, put the interior back together and then likely look at putting bits of bodywork back on
Otherwise I've been playing Gran Turismo 7 a bit over the weekend, so slacked off a little, but I wanted to get some crucial bits ticked off the list so I had time in case of any problems.
Main thing was the fuel pump as depending on what sort of power it makes, the standard one may not be able to keep up. The DW300C is a drop in replacement that flows more than enough and I'd picked one up ages ago.
So, undo the fuel tank straps
Complete the big boot conversion...
Split the plastic case to gain access to the fuel pump
Pop the pump assembly out
The mystical "sludge at the bottom of the tank" doesn't seem to be a big deal, looks very clean in there
Pop the float off
Remove the bucket, little bit of dirt in there
Fiddle the fuel pump out, there's some awkward clips to get to, was easy enough to work out by looking at the replacement as a reference
The pickup supplied isn't exactly a direct fit so I had to reuse the one off the original pump that's made to conform to the shape of the bucket
All back together, o-rings and things swapped over, and time to go back in the car
I wanted to sort the intake tubing so the MAF can be removed, so chopped down some 4" silicon hose, use the jubilee clips as a cutting guide
Fits nicely. I also mounted a cheap vented catch can and ran the hose from the valley cover to the can. I don't expect this to really gather anything, but am curious, if there ends up a lot of crankcase pressure then it'll likely pick some up, so will be interesting to see.
I need to snip the MAF wires and extend the 2 IAT wires so that it can be routed neatly around the outside of the engine bay instead of sat over there like that, but that won't take long.
Valve covers are hopefully arriving in the next few days, and will be nipping over to Topspeed Automotive to pick them up.
Also dropped the rear wheels off for a new set of rears, 255/35 Michelin PS4S, as one was flat and they were both very old and very hard pilot super sports that were basically wooden anyway, great fun, but not useful on the dyno I suspect.
So the list is looking suitably on course, will extend the IAT, put the interior back together and then likely look at putting bits of bodywork back on
bonesxu1 said:
Things are looking really good and it'll not be long till the car is on the road and you'll be grinning from ear to ear.
Yeah if things go together well over the weekend I may pull it out of the garage just for the significant milestone!I've also booked the 12th May off work so will have another day to double check things or fix if something comes up. Will get some exhaust on footage too, can't remember if I explained but last time it hadn't failed the MAF, so was trying to take the reading from that, which given it was unplugged, was presumably not suggesting much air was flowing in...
So I fitted a separate return for the brake booster low pressure return, fortunately the reservoir comes off so access was alright.
Also replaced the line from the steering cooler with a longer straight run, this let me rotate the reservoir round a bit to give it some space to the frame, and also make the brake return line neater.
Picked up the valve covers, fitting was going well.
Had to relocate the oil pressure gauge but found a spot for it.
I say was, because the brake booster means there's not clearance to get the covers on, and I didn't have the will to take that off...
It will fit, but there's not clearance to get them on over the coil packs...
Which is a shame as it does look good with both on...
Also popped the interior back together and the gear knob back on. I tried to 'improve' the fitment of the leather gaiter, so needless to say I'll need a new one of those
Also replaced the line from the steering cooler with a longer straight run, this let me rotate the reservoir round a bit to give it some space to the frame, and also make the brake return line neater.
Picked up the valve covers, fitting was going well.
Had to relocate the oil pressure gauge but found a spot for it.
I say was, because the brake booster means there's not clearance to get the covers on, and I didn't have the will to take that off...
It will fit, but there's not clearance to get them on over the coil packs...
Which is a shame as it does look good with both on...
Also popped the interior back together and the gear knob back on. I tried to 'improve' the fitment of the leather gaiter, so needless to say I'll need a new one of those
I'm taking a well deserved beer break.
It has headlights. Sounds simple enough, but I spent ages bleeding the power steering fluid etc before as obviously headlight makes topping it up awkward...
I had to take it off the lift to get the quarter panel on, and quarter panel on to get the bumper on, so was tidying up underneath stuff
I've damaged enough sumps to know I'm definitely putting the sump guard back on...
Looks like headers hang the lowest, hopefully they're wide enough apart that those godawful central speed mountains miss them
[url]
Now, how did this go on again?
|https://thumbsnap.com/pZEUwtEa[/url]
Ah, yes, it is secured where the ABS lives now. That'll need a lot of a trim then... (below pic is post trimmage)
Got there eventually
So I put all the wheels back on (seemed prudent) and dropped it back down, and my god it looks so low when you're used to it up in the air!
I also stuck a switch inline with the PS trigger so I could just turn it off when we're on the dyno etc, as the noise was annoying. Interestingly though now that I've managed to rotate the reservoir a bit so it's no longer against the rubber guard I put on the bodywork, there's obviously far less resonating through the body and it's much quieter now, relatively.
So I reflashed on the tune, set the laptop up to log things, shoved the lifts out of the way, cleared a path, put on my big boy trousers and gave it a punt...
IT fkING MOVES!
Allow me some slack that it's the first time I've used that clutch, it's a new clutch, first time I've used a twin plate, it's a lightweight clutch etc, OK OK so I gave it some revs there as I didn't want it to stall basically
The clutch already feels very different underfoot, but it feels brilliant, it's a fairly short travel of engagement, but it's a really 'grippy' feeling somehow and I can't imagine it's going to be hard work in normal usage.
I really want to keep it like this, it looks strangely excellent
Cheers
It has headlights. Sounds simple enough, but I spent ages bleeding the power steering fluid etc before as obviously headlight makes topping it up awkward...
I had to take it off the lift to get the quarter panel on, and quarter panel on to get the bumper on, so was tidying up underneath stuff
I've damaged enough sumps to know I'm definitely putting the sump guard back on...
Looks like headers hang the lowest, hopefully they're wide enough apart that those godawful central speed mountains miss them
[url]Now, how did this go on again?
|https://thumbsnap.com/pZEUwtEa[/url]Ah, yes, it is secured where the ABS lives now. That'll need a lot of a trim then... (below pic is post trimmage)
Got there eventually
So I put all the wheels back on (seemed prudent) and dropped it back down, and my god it looks so low when you're used to it up in the air!
I also stuck a switch inline with the PS trigger so I could just turn it off when we're on the dyno etc, as the noise was annoying. Interestingly though now that I've managed to rotate the reservoir a bit so it's no longer against the rubber guard I put on the bodywork, there's obviously far less resonating through the body and it's much quieter now, relatively.
So I reflashed on the tune, set the laptop up to log things, shoved the lifts out of the way, cleared a path, put on my big boy trousers and gave it a punt...
IT f
kING MOVES!Allow me some slack that it's the first time I've used that clutch, it's a new clutch, first time I've used a twin plate, it's a lightweight clutch etc, OK OK so I gave it some revs there as I didn't want it to stall basically
The clutch already feels very different underfoot, but it feels brilliant, it's a fairly short travel of engagement, but it's a really 'grippy' feeling somehow and I can't imagine it's going to be hard work in normal usage.
I really want to keep it like this, it looks strangely excellent
Cheers
Polly Grigora said:
fking hell it sounds absolutely amazing
First time have heard it with volume wound up due to running on knackered speakers for several weeks
I want one but don't want the work
You're surely chuffed with the sound
I am pleased with the sound, yes sir indeed king hell it sounds absolutely amazingFirst time have heard it with volume wound up due to running on knackered speakers for several weeks
I want one but don't want the work
You're surely chuffed with the sound
There's a fair few with cams in over here, you could buy one already done
TheAngryDog said:
Looking good and sounding epic. How much power do you think it'll make?
Well, so a friend brought in a 408ci LS from the states some years ago, similar spec (although worse heads, smaller cam, worse intake etc) and it was his frequent use of the phrase 'about 600hp' that made me think bad thoughts.So if I'm being honest, I'm shooting for 600bhp. Optimistically that might be 500rwhp, I will be very happy if it makes 500 at the wheels. 1hp per mm of tyre tread is a good balance for me.
Tony Mamo is generally an under promise and over deliver kind of guy, and having specced it all, he says it's a 600hp engine, so let's see!
Realistically though, I'll be enjoying it either way, it'd just be cherry on the icing if it makes big numbers.
Good news, the bonnet fits and doesn't hit the intake or radiator etc it had looked a little high so I was unsure on clearance, but it's fine.
Managed to get the quarter panel on, it's fiddly beyond belief, but it's on.
Had to go to the pub to watch the F1 so that was me for the day, but will be seeing if the bumper fits soon, the fog light may hit the power steering pump, so the dremel will be back out in that case
Managed to get the quarter panel on, it's fiddly beyond belief, but it's on.
Had to go to the pub to watch the F1 so that was me for the day, but will be seeing if the bumper fits soon, the fog light may hit the power steering pump, so the dremel will be back out in that case
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