Not another 996.........
Discussion
gizlaroc said:
Das ist der neue dansk super Spoooorrtaaaaah auspuff!
gizlaroc said:
The was some young 19 year old lad with tracksuit bottoms, LaCoste Trainers, a Moncler cap and a......vest, being looked after when I arrived. He had a 320d and was ordering a new exhaust system for it.
Twin exit exhausts, 5" tips and he wanted it to sound "Fakin' proper loud blad!"
The fact he then said after that "Although, not quite as loud as his 911." told me I really do need to do something about mine pretty quickly.
Twin exit exhausts, 5" tips and he wanted it to sound "Fakin' proper loud blad!"
The fact he then said after that "Although, not quite as loud as his 911." told me I really do need to do something about mine pretty quickly.
Excellent!
Could your decribe the squeeking? Whilst at driving speed, or low speed manoeuvring?
gizlaroc said:
Spoke with someone who had the Bilstein B4 M030 replacement dampers fitted their car and then swapped for the B6 or B8.
He couldn't remember, but same damping, one just shorter length so the damper is not already compressed when using shorter springs, and to make sure the springs are not loose on the perches ever.
However, he said that he actually wished he hadn't 'upgraded'.
Said that the B4, although a twin tube, worked better on the UK roads, felt a bit firmer than the stock M030 dampers but less crashy. The B6/8 brought back some of the jiggly nature and crashyness.
So, thinking B4 M030 kit all round would probably work best. 911UK also have all for or around £720.
With 997 C4 front top mounts, 996 c4 rear top mounts, and new bump stops it comes in at around £1100 delivered.
Watching/reading with interest. My C2 has 156k on it's original suspension so I'm sure it would benefit from new dampers. He couldn't remember, but same damping, one just shorter length so the damper is not already compressed when using shorter springs, and to make sure the springs are not loose on the perches ever.
However, he said that he actually wished he hadn't 'upgraded'.
Said that the B4, although a twin tube, worked better on the UK roads, felt a bit firmer than the stock M030 dampers but less crashy. The B6/8 brought back some of the jiggly nature and crashyness.
So, thinking B4 M030 kit all round would probably work best. 911UK also have all for or around £720.
With 997 C4 front top mounts, 996 c4 rear top mounts, and new bump stops it comes in at around £1100 delivered.
With the 911uk discount code a full set of C2 M030 dampers comes in at around £660. A pair of Sachs front top mounts are only £50 or so on Autodoc/Ebay but the same parts seem a bit pricer for C4s. Spyder Performance's prices seem pretty competitive - not sure what the quality is like though?
https://www.spyderperformance.co.uk/product-catego...
Keep up the good work!
Re. the M030 dampers, Bilstein are the OE supplier for these as far as I can tell.
Normally twin tube dampers have better ride quality than single tube dampers, and the bilsteins are inverted which adds another bushing which potentially further reduces compliance.
Clearly options are slightly limited for the C4 but if you're thinking about the M030 stuff I would recommend it. Still fairly crashy but as far as I can see that's just what you get with the 996 platform.
I got mine from Autodoc, better on price than D911 but that may have changed post Brexit.
Normally twin tube dampers have better ride quality than single tube dampers, and the bilsteins are inverted which adds another bushing which potentially further reduces compliance.
Clearly options are slightly limited for the C4 but if you're thinking about the M030 stuff I would recommend it. Still fairly crashy but as far as I can see that's just what you get with the 996 platform.
I got mine from Autodoc, better on price than D911 but that may have changed post Brexit.
Edited by shalmaneser on Friday 12th March 16:40
gizlaroc said:
Went back to to garage with my angle grinder to finish the exhaust today.
Cut the rusted bracket off in 30 seconds on the nearside. Then moved onto the 13mm nuts on the silencer bracket.
The problem is they are tucked away behind the manifold, you can sort of get to them, but you get an 1/8th of a turn on the top two and about 1/16th on the bottom one and you have to use an extension and it is not on dead square. Combine that with the fact they are 20 years old and crumbling and rusting it is a pain.
The first top one came out OK, lots of heat, lots of Plus Gas and very slowly it came out.
The second top one snapped. Bugger.
The bottom one snapped. Bugger again.
But the silencer was off.
I got a 10mm nut and bolt and thought I could squeeze a wrench behind and get them done up, so drilled out the snapped threaded shaft and went to put it on. Then remembered there is a Mig welder. How hard can it be?
Never used one before, but surely you just turn it on and go? I had seen people clamp on the piece of metal they were welding and pressing the trigger.
5 minutes later the bolt was welded on and I was grinding the back of it smooth to hide my terrible welding.
Moved onto the offside silencer, some more Plus Gas, slowly, slowly on the top two both off nice and easy.
Onto the bottom one and..........no chance!
The nut was rusted and crumbling so now rounded, the thread was completely corroded, and 3 hours later I gave up.
Couldn't get a reciprocating saw in there, couldn't get a drill in there, couldn't get the Mig in there to weld on a nut, couldn't get a cutting disc in there. So got to 7.30pm, it was 1ºc outside and raining and the rear of the car was hanging off the ramp and almost outside. So had enough.
I guess next move is buy two new long bolts, the ones you can see on the bracket above, and cut them out so it comes off with the bracket, and then tackle the seized nut when off. Grind it off.
The reason you need to buy new ones is Porsche put them in so the nut is on the bottom, that means you can't pull the bolt out as not enough room above. Well done Porsche!
Or, now I am a dab hand with gas tools, have a bash with the Oxy Acetylene cutter that is sat there.
Again, how hard can it be? What's the worst that could happen?
Maybe I will take it down to my local tyre and exhaust guys in the morning and ask them to cut it out. Might be a safer option.
Have to say, even with one of the Dansk Super Spooooorrrrrrttaaaaahhhhhh silencers off and the Topgear Mild one on the thing is much more my bag. Far more subtle.
Would be interested to hear a before and after dansk supersport Vs topgear mild if you can!Cut the rusted bracket off in 30 seconds on the nearside. Then moved onto the 13mm nuts on the silencer bracket.
The problem is they are tucked away behind the manifold, you can sort of get to them, but you get an 1/8th of a turn on the top two and about 1/16th on the bottom one and you have to use an extension and it is not on dead square. Combine that with the fact they are 20 years old and crumbling and rusting it is a pain.
The first top one came out OK, lots of heat, lots of Plus Gas and very slowly it came out.
The second top one snapped. Bugger.
The bottom one snapped. Bugger again.
But the silencer was off.
I got a 10mm nut and bolt and thought I could squeeze a wrench behind and get them done up, so drilled out the snapped threaded shaft and went to put it on. Then remembered there is a Mig welder. How hard can it be?
Never used one before, but surely you just turn it on and go? I had seen people clamp on the piece of metal they were welding and pressing the trigger.
5 minutes later the bolt was welded on and I was grinding the back of it smooth to hide my terrible welding.
Moved onto the offside silencer, some more Plus Gas, slowly, slowly on the top two both off nice and easy.
Onto the bottom one and..........no chance!
The nut was rusted and crumbling so now rounded, the thread was completely corroded, and 3 hours later I gave up.
Couldn't get a reciprocating saw in there, couldn't get a drill in there, couldn't get the Mig in there to weld on a nut, couldn't get a cutting disc in there. So got to 7.30pm, it was 1ºc outside and raining and the rear of the car was hanging off the ramp and almost outside. So had enough.
I guess next move is buy two new long bolts, the ones you can see on the bracket above, and cut them out so it comes off with the bracket, and then tackle the seized nut when off. Grind it off.
The reason you need to buy new ones is Porsche put them in so the nut is on the bottom, that means you can't pull the bolt out as not enough room above. Well done Porsche!
Or, now I am a dab hand with gas tools, have a bash with the Oxy Acetylene cutter that is sat there.
Again, how hard can it be? What's the worst that could happen?
Maybe I will take it down to my local tyre and exhaust guys in the morning and ask them to cut it out. Might be a safer option.
Have to say, even with one of the Dansk Super Spooooorrrrrrttaaaaahhhhhh silencers off and the Topgear Mild one on the thing is much more my bag. Far more subtle.
Only just stumbled on this. Great read.
I bought a 986 S myself in May. I always thought I preferred 987 onwards Boxsters and 997 onwards in respect of water-cooled 911s.
But, you know what, I'm loving this Boxster. And I like the fact that it's so closely related to its big brother in this iteration.
I now know I'd be very happy with a 996 when/if the opportunity arises.
But first to enjoy the Boxster!
I bought a 986 S myself in May. I always thought I preferred 987 onwards Boxsters and 997 onwards in respect of water-cooled 911s.
But, you know what, I'm loving this Boxster. And I like the fact that it's so closely related to its big brother in this iteration.
I now know I'd be very happy with a 996 when/if the opportunity arises.
But first to enjoy the Boxster!
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