2001 996 C2 CSR

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Discussion

ATM

Original Poster:

14,678 posts

196 months

Saturday 1st January
quotequote all
Been out for a bit of a blast this morning. I was chasing someone in their Boxster but unfortunately the pace car broke. I had some good fun up until then. Car feels a lot better now since the geo and I'm much more confident in the corners and leaning on the car more. It was all over the place before the geo. I'm definitely enjoying the car more now where as pre geo I was thinking my other 996 feels better.

I do have a little list of to do's in no specific order

Mapping
I want to get this checked or done or whatever

Front discs
I've got these ready to put on

Oil change
I've bought some Millers 10w50 which I can do myself

Steering wheel
I think the car has an eccentric spacer fitted and I might try removing it to see how it feels without

Keys
I have 2 keys but one is pretty tired looking so I'll need to renew 1 or both - we'll see

Air pump removal
The thing that blows air into the exhaust - totally unnecessary if you ask me

Weight loss
I might try removing some more bits and pieces to make the car a bit lighter if simple enough to do

ATM

Original Poster:

14,678 posts

196 months

Friday 7th January
quotequote all
ATM said:
Ashgoods are selling this C4S CSR for

£44 grand

55000 miles

Claims to have £40 grand in mods

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373838202692













Reduced

Now 40 grand

It's only been 10 days

ATM

Original Poster:

14,678 posts

196 months

Saturday 22nd January
quotequote all
Now that I have my jack back home I changed the oil today. The jack only just fit under the massive aero kit side skirts.

Millers 10w50


Podie

46,549 posts

252 months

Saturday 22nd January
quotequote all
ATM said:
Now that I have my jack back home I changed the oil today. The jack only just fit under the massive aero kit side skirts.

Millers 10w50

Always good to see a Birmingham screwdriver being used hehe

ATM

Original Poster:

14,678 posts

196 months

Saturday 22nd January
quotequote all
ATM said:
ATM said:
Ashgoods are selling this C4S CSR for

£44 grand

55000 miles

Claims to have £40 grand in mods

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373838202692













Reduced

Now 40 grand

It's only been 10 days
No longer in their stock list.

ATM

Original Poster:

14,678 posts

196 months

Wednesday 26th January
quotequote all
I have received the Certificate of Conformity from Porsche. I have sent this to the DVLA. Lets see what they say about exemption or not from the new Clean Air Zones.

ATM

Original Poster:

14,678 posts

196 months

Wednesday 26th January
quotequote all



jonny996

2,439 posts

194 months

Wednesday 26th January
quotequote all
ATM said:
I have received the Certificate of Conformity from Porsche. I have sent this to the DVLA. Lets see what they say about exemption or not from the new Clean Air Zones.
Interested in the answer to this.

ATM

Original Poster:

14,678 posts

196 months

Wednesday 26th January
quotequote all
jonny996 said:
ATM said:
I have received the Certificate of Conformity from Porsche. I have sent this to the DVLA. Lets see what they say about exemption or not from the new Clean Air Zones.
Interested in the answer to this.
Looking at the numbers I don't think it's going to be a positive outcome. I believe the car needs to be EUR 4 compliant if petrol. The numbers for CO and NOx look fine but assuming HC on the certificate matches their THC then this is over the 0.1 required.

ATM

Original Poster:

14,678 posts

196 months

Sunday 30th January
quotequote all
So I decided to tackle the brakes today. I had an MOT advisory for rusty inner faces on the front brake discs. So I'd bought a pair of stadard Textar discs. I was toying with the idea of just changing the discs and keeping the same pads. But as I had a set of standard Brembo pads I thought I'd fit them too. They were ear marked for another car but plans change. The CSR has a mushy feeling brake pedal. It isn't rock hard like you'd expect on a 996. Well I'm guessing it should be rock hard. My little red 986 has a rock hard pedal. It is now my benchmark for 9x6 brakes. I don't have bleeder kit so I'll order one of those. I've ordered some cans of ATE brake fluid.

I started on the driver side front corner brake first. The two little screws holding the disc came out fine. But when I moved to the passenger side the 2nd one didn't want to come out and I had to abandon the job. Good job I tried these first. I'm guessing this needs drilling out now. If anyone has any tips please let me know.

Once I got the pads out of the driver side I inspected them. They have textar stamped into the metal plate. I'm not sure if this means they are textar pads or textar supply the blank metal plates for others to load up with their own friction material. The bills in the history binder mention some PFC pads I think. I've been running under the assumption it's these pads giving me a mushy pedal or lacking bite. Now I'm not sure.

Once I'd given up on the front I moved to the rear. I wanted to fit new standard Brembo pads to match the front. I started on the driver side and had to abandon this also. I got as far as hammering the rod or large pin which holds the pads in. I spent 10 minutes tapping away at it but it didn't budge. Again if anyone has any suggestions for removing this please let me know.

While I had the car jacked up I tried to fit a 16 inch 986 rear wheel but It didn't fit. It fouled on the mounting point for the rear camber arm to the hub.

So all in all not the most productive day.

I can report the HRE wheels feel quite light. I was expecting the rear to be heavier but it was surprisingly light. No scales so no geeky weights to report sorry.

Oh also I removed the battery for charging in the house. The battery tray looked a right mess so I took that off too. For now that's in the shed and I'm using the one from my 986 which looks brand new. I'm guessing this can be cleaned up and then painted.















Slippydiff

13,457 posts

200 months

Thursday 3rd February
quotequote all
If you've not already butchered rounded the Posidrive/Philips drive, get yourself one of these :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193169175366?hash=item2...

It should free it off easily.

If you have damaged the head, get a decent quality centre punch such as this :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254378081471?hash=item3...

and one of these (the bigger the better) :

https://www.phrases.org.uk/meanings/58900.html

If you have the correct bit to drive the screw (not a screwdriver, because we don't hit screwdriver handles with a hammer, do we ... ???) hold it in the screw slot with a pair of Mole grips or pliers, and give the end of it a couple of really good sharp and hard taps with a hammer. Then:

Get the centre punch and locate its point where the tip of the red arrow is :



Then holding it roughly at 45 degrees to the head of the screw, tap it to get a centre punch dot on the face of the screw. Once you have a locating dot, hold the centre punch at the smallest possible angle between the tip and the disc face/hub, and hammer it to knock the screw head counter clockwise, if the centre punch is sharp and decent quality, it'll dig into the head of the screw and allow you to hit it pretty hard.

If the hole from the punch gets too deep or breaks into the cross of the Posidrive or the outer periphery of the screw, start the process again but 90 degrees around the screw.
In my experience they always loosen using this method, and once you can see/feel it free off, get some penetrating spray on the screw behind the head.

Hopefully not teaching you to suck eggs, and you'll have found the same clips on the front calipers, but you're aware the rear brake pad locating pins have a small "R" clip that stops them from sliding out too ?

The clip can just be seen arrowed in this image :



if the pad retaining pin has spun round, they can be awkward little ba5tards to remove.

Once the R clip is removed, you'll need a decent quality punch to knock them out :

https://tinyurl.com/44ykmrmp

as they suffer from galvanic corrosion between the alloy of the caliper body and the steel pin and they get pretty well seized in the caliper. The tension from the anti-rattle spring also makes them a pain to remove ... but they will come out if you hit them hard enough.

BTW, the discs should be supplied with new securing screws, I'd use them, and apply some Copaslip or similar anti seize compound to them to avoid the same problem in the future. If they're not supplied with the discs, they cost pence from design 911 or your local OPC.

Textar stamped on the backplates means Textar pads, they were/are OE suppliers to Porsche AG.


Edited by Slippydiff on Thursday 3rd February 00:35

Slippydiff

13,457 posts

200 months

Thursday 3rd February
quotequote all
The mushy brake pedal will partially be down to the inner faces of the front discs being so badly corroded and the pad face becoming glazed and then overheated.
If the car had PFC pads fitted in the not too distant past, it's most likely given the brake fluid a good workout, so it'll be ripe for the brake fluid change you've got planned.

Also worthwhile noting that the thin steel anti-squeal shim that's stuck in the pistons of the front caliper, should actually be stuck to the back of the brake pad backing plate.

You'll need four for the front. They're not cheap, but they'll stop the squeal and will probably improve the brake feel further too :

https://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod148604/Anti-vib...

The rears require 8, and they're even more of a rip off ...

https://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod148626/Anti-vib...

you could leave them out altogether, but being as I intend buying the car off you at some point in the future, I'd appreciate it if you'd maintain it properly during its tenure with you. Thanks smile



Edited by Slippydiff on Thursday 3rd February 00:33

ATM

Original Poster:

14,678 posts

196 months

Thursday 3rd February
quotequote all



Polome

472 posts

102 months

Thursday 3rd February
quotequote all
The pad locating pins are easy to remove….tear thin strip of emery cloth and dress all the exposed areas of pin ( between cheeks of callipers). Try to remove all signs of corrosion. It’s the corrosion that swells the diameter of the pin and creates friction in the locating holes when trying to drive pins out. Dress pins to shinny metal , use plus gas on on pin ends and they will come out easily….the more you clean up the pins the easier they come out….good luck.

ATM

Original Poster:

14,678 posts

196 months

Thursday 3rd February
quotequote all
Slippydiff said:
If you've not already butchered rounded the Posidrive/Philips drive, get yourself one of these :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193169175366?hash=item2...

It should free it off easily.

If you have damaged the head, get a decent quality centre punch such as this :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254378081471?hash=item3...

and one of these (the bigger the better) :

https://www.phrases.org.uk/meanings/58900.html

If you have the correct bit to drive the screw (not a screwdriver, because we don't hit screwdriver handles with a hammer, do we ... ???) hold it in the screw slot with a pair of Mole grips or pliers, and give the end of it a couple of really good sharp and hard taps with a hammer. Then:

Get the centre punch and locate its point where the tip of the red arrow is :



Then holding it roughly at 45 degrees to the head of the screw, tap it to get a centre punch dot on the face of the screw. Once you have a locating dot, hold the centre punch at the smallest possible angle between the tip and the disc face/hub, and hammer it to knock the screw head counter clockwise, if the centre punch is sharp and decent quality, it'll dig into the head of the screw and allow you to hit it pretty hard.

If the hole from the punch gets too deep or breaks into the cross of the Posidrive or the outer periphery of the screw, start the process again but 90 degrees around the screw.
In my experience they always loosen using this method, and once you can see/feel it free off, get some penetrating spray on the screw behind the head.
Good advice there thanks Slippy. More stuff ordered.

I have butchered or rounded it a bit / too much already. But I'll have the tools on hand now should I encounter the same problem again. I have a full set of 4 discs waiting to go on my other 996.



ATM

Original Poster:

14,678 posts

196 months

Saturday 26th February
quotequote all
Finished all the brakes today. Both front discs and pads. Also rear pads.

The stubborn disc retaining screw would not budge. So I brute forced the disc off and obliterated the screw head. The rest of the screw is still stuck in the hub thing. I've bought some new stainless replacement so one of these was used on the passenger side.

The bolts for the passenger caliper were very stiff. I was worried something would snap. Once I got them off I cleaned up the threads with my tap and die kit and then they could go in and out just using my fingers. I'm tempted to replace these.

The 10mm bolt which holds the little plate for the flexi pipe mount snapped off. So this is not held on by anything. Not sure what to about this.

2 of the calipers had no r clip so I need to buy some of those.

I drove the car to bed in the pads. I had to oull over when I saw smoke coming out of the front wheels. Everything looked OK so maybe that was just some lubricants burning off. I did use a bit of plus gas on the retaining pins so I'm hoping it was just this burning off.

So that's about it with the brakes for now. I can't decide if the pedal feels any better. All pads I removed were very nearly new. They were not much thinner than the new pads I fitted.

When I went to open the car today I found the battery completely flat. I had to attach jumper cables to the fuse box to pop the bonnet. I've put a different battery on the car for now from my other 996 which I know is good.

Now both remote buttons on both keys will not work. This is odd. I can lock and unlock the driver door with both keys in the lock, the okd fashioned way. But this doesn't work the central locking so the passenger door is not locking. Also the car chirps when i lock via the key so clearly something is wrong and the car isnt playing ball, it is a single chirp. Also when I remove the key from the ignition the stereo remains on, so maybe the ignition isnt turning off for some reason. If I press the button by the air vents then the doors lock and unlock - if both doors are closed. This has stumped me so if anyone knows what's going on please let me know. Every thread I've read online just talks about new batteries. I can't find any threads which mention the single chirp when locking with the key.

Slippydiff

13,457 posts

200 months

Sunday 27th February
quotequote all
ATM said:
Finished all the brakes today. Both front discs and pads. Also rear pads.

The stubborn disc retaining screw would not budge. So I brute forced the disc off and obliterated the screw head. The rest of the screw is still stuck in the hub thing. I've bought some new stainless replacement so one of these was used on the passenger side.

The bolts for the passenger caliper were very stiff. I was worried something would snap. Once I got them off I cleaned up the threads with my tap and die kit and then they could go in and out just using my fingers. I'm tempted to replace these.

The 10mm bolt which holds the little plate for the flexi pipe mount snapped off. So this is not held on by anything. Not sure what to about this.

2 of the calipers had no r clip so I need to buy some of those.

I drove the car to bed in the pads. I had to oull over when I saw smoke coming out of the front wheels. Everything looked OK so maybe that was just some lubricants burning off. I did use a bit of plus gas on the retaining pins so I'm hoping it was just this burning off.

So that's about it with the brakes for now. I can't decide if the pedal feels any better. All pads I removed were very nearly new. They were not much thinner than the new pads I fitted.

When I went to open the car today I found the battery completely flat. I had to attach jumper cables to the fuse box to pop the bonnet. I've put a different battery on the car for now from my other 996 which I know is good.

Now both remote buttons on both keys will not work. This is odd. I can lock and unlock the driver door with both keys in the lock, the okd fashioned way. But this doesn't work the central locking so the passenger door is not locking. Also the car chirps when i lock via the key so clearly something is wrong and the car isnt playing ball, it is a single chirp. Also when I remove the key from the ignition the stereo remains on, so maybe the ignition isnt turning off for some reason. If I press the button by the air vents then the doors lock and unlock - if both doors are closed. This has stumped me so if anyone knows what's going on please let me know. Every thread I've read online just talks about new batteries. I can't find any threads which mention the single chirp when locking with the key.
About time too biggrin I gave up checking in to see what progress had been made ... smile

Those 10mm bolts securing the brake hard lines nearly always shear off, it's the usual galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals.
It really needs drilling out and the pipe bracket securing again, just in case the flexi pipe rubs or catches on a suspension component when the front wheels are on lock.

For the record, you should always treat any steel bolt that goes into an aluminium part with Copaslip or aluminium paste, though assembly oil will do at a push and that includes the caliper securing bolts.

https://www.redlineoil.com/liquid-assembly-lube

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Original-Molyslip-Copas...

Not cheap, and horribly messy, but brilliant :

https://eshop.wurth.co.uk/Product-categories/Alu-p...

Hopefully you've dodged a bullet with yours, as they often tear the threads out of the upright when you remove them. I take it you torqued them to the prescribed setting with a decent/accurate torque wrench ?

Oh, and for what it's worth, those caliper securing bolts are one use only items, and thus are supposed to be replaced once they've been torqued up and undone ...



m12nathan

349 posts

120 months

Sunday 27th February
quotequote all

Slippydiff

13,457 posts

200 months

Sunday 27th February
quotequote all
m12nathan said:
Indeed, definitely worthwhile considering for trackday regulars, but in this instance I’d suggest some kind of anti-seize compound would be more cost effective smile
And for record, I’ve never fitted new caliper retaining bolts to ANY of the 996/997 GT cars I’ve owned ... but ensuring they don’t seize in the uprights is key, and in the OP’s situation, I’d make a point of fitting new items and torquing them correctly, just to make sure the threads in the front uprights are up to the job.


ATM

Original Poster:

14,678 posts

196 months

Sunday 27th February
quotequote all
Slippydiff said:
Indeed, definitely worthwhile considering for trackday regulars, but in this instance I’d suggest some kind of anti-seize compound would be more cost effective smile
And for record, I’ve never fitted new caliper retaining bolts to ANY of the 996/997 GT cars I’ve owned ... but ensuring they don’t seize in the uprights is key, and in the OP’s situation, I’d make a point of fitting new items and torquing them correctly, just to make sure the threads in the front uprights are up to the job.
Retapping the threads worked a treat. Both the upright and the bolts. After retapping I could spin the bolts in and out with my fingers. There was some sticky gunk which was maybe some form of lube - but it was too thick so maybe it was thread lock or whatever it's called.

I'm tempted to replace them because the bolt heads didn't look too clever. So where the socket / bit thing goes in. Visually the inside edges looked a bit rounded.

The stiff one didn't want to budge with my power bar which is I'd say 30cm long. So I had to extend it further by adding some of the jack handle - a long round tube. This probably gave me say 45 to 50 cm of leverage. Then it felt like the bit was flexing or twisting. I think it was about to snap.

I'm curious why they don't just use Hex bolts.