BMW 635CSi Restomod
Discussion
My plan of action after finishing the welding was to get the car on its wheels so I primed and raptor coated the wheel tubs, the underside of the car has already been done
Next up was to strengthen the diff mount, the diff bolts to a cross member from underneath with captive nuts so I decided to add strength by utilising the upper surface which happens to be part of the boot floor. I did this by drilling up through the original fixings and then making the upper holes large enough to drop some steel tubes in which were then welded in place. The whole lot was then capped with a 3mm steel plate. The idea is to bolt through from the top all the way through the original captive nuts and then use nuts over the protruding bolts which are now acting as studs.
The differential was sent away and the ratio was increased to 3.64 from 3.07 which should improve acceleration somewhat and at the same time the lock was increased to 40% instead of 25%. The rear axle was then built up using poly bushes and then fitted to the car
After this the engine bay and the boot were prepped and painted in Alpine White and gold foil applied to the bulkhead.
Once the boot was painted I fitted the bolts and secured the diff properly.
Next up was to strengthen the diff mount, the diff bolts to a cross member from underneath with captive nuts so I decided to add strength by utilising the upper surface which happens to be part of the boot floor. I did this by drilling up through the original fixings and then making the upper holes large enough to drop some steel tubes in which were then welded in place. The whole lot was then capped with a 3mm steel plate. The idea is to bolt through from the top all the way through the original captive nuts and then use nuts over the protruding bolts which are now acting as studs.
The differential was sent away and the ratio was increased to 3.64 from 3.07 which should improve acceleration somewhat and at the same time the lock was increased to 40% instead of 25%. The rear axle was then built up using poly bushes and then fitted to the car
After this the engine bay and the boot were prepped and painted in Alpine White and gold foil applied to the bulkhead.
Once the boot was painted I fitted the bolts and secured the diff properly.
Just caught up on the last month or so of uploads, what a cracking, cracking job OP-superb work.
I’m mid way through a mini restoration of my GT3 and I’m so glad I found one with no rust in it.
It’s easy to cut corners when you’re deep in the mire, a couple of times I’ve bolted things back up before undoing them the next day because I knew what I’d done wasn’t exactly perfect.
Once you’re in, you’re IN!
I’m mid way through a mini restoration of my GT3 and I’m so glad I found one with no rust in it.
It’s easy to cut corners when you’re deep in the mire, a couple of times I’ve bolted things back up before undoing them the next day because I knew what I’d done wasn’t exactly perfect.
Once you’re in, you’re IN!
Stick Legs said:
Speaking from experience, having had to weld a diff mount back into the boot floor of an E24, this is very wise.
My old e9 was the same, in fact the subframe used to crack on that till I got sick of welding it and took it out and strengthened it.The e24 subframe was also strengthened but I didn't get any photos of that.
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