Power steering belt

Power steering belt

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Discussion

m4tti

4,951 posts

119 months

Tuesday 2nd July 2013
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Toady1 said:
Well I've found my problem. I'd blown my 125A fuse!

As an added bonus whilst removing the battery to charge it I fixed another problem I've had since I bought the car! My heater blower never seemed to blow very hard. Whilst it was in for its service I asked for the 'specialist' to check it for me as I didn't think it was right. He told me he had a quick look and the wrong blower was in my car and it wasn't blowing right indeed, so I'd need a new blower etc! What a load of bullst!!! The right blower is in there, looking at it the cover hadn't been removed for eons, and all that was wrong with it was the wires were the wrong way round so polarity on the blower was wrong! Cleaned up connections fit them the right was and hey presto, a fully blowing heater!!! After a few things that hadn't been done right and bullste I was told, oh and the lacquer being jetwashed off my alloy and told they could sort that for me but it would cost £300!!!! I won't be taking my car back to that 'specialist' again! So tvrboy55 - false economy is it, keep getting your pants pulled down then! wink
So they were going to re-lacquer one wheel for £300? Where did you take it Bugatti biggrin

Was this the specialist you used last November for your 12k or have you used another one since.



Edited by m4tti on Tuesday 2nd July 22:24

Toady1

Original Poster:

1,609 posts

188 months

Tuesday 2nd July 2013
quotequote all
That was to have all 4 done in shadow chrome, I think it was nearer to £400 too actually! £300 was the price I got from myalloys who are very good!

JimmyZZ

220 posts

186 months

Friday 11th March 2016
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m4tti said:
Yeah and it's a complete b1tch. Took me a whole weekend due to seized bolts. You have to remove the intermediate shaft bearing housing.

If the bolts are seized then be extremely careful not to shear them. It can mean engine out. If they do feel stuck apparently the safest way is to sacrifice the bearing housing by chipping away material around the bolt shoulders with a chisel. This releases the pressure on them.

They get left at services for this reason
So here I am, I have removed the bolts of the intermediate bearing, but how do I move onwards now?
Just pulling the shaft towards the rear of the car does not work.
What else do I have to do? Is the bolt at the front of the shaft to be removed with an allen key or what else?

Thanks in advance
Jimmy the Bavarian

m4tti

4,951 posts

119 months

Friday 11th March 2016
quotequote all
From memory you remove the large nut on the alternator end of the shaft, slide off the end pulley, then the intermediate bearing housing.. the hey presto belt comes off biggrin

JimmyZZ

220 posts

186 months

Saturday 12th March 2016
quotequote all
Thank you Sir.

JimmyZZ

220 posts

186 months

Monday 14th March 2016
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Well I have now removed everything but the intermediate bearing.
This thing does not move.
Could it be seized on the shaft? Or is there something else I may have missed??
I do not want to apply excessive force, since the shaft moves slightly forwards and backwards. I don't want to damage the chain drive inside the motor.
This is where I am now:


Edited by JimmyZZ on Monday 14th March 10:15

m4tti

4,951 posts

119 months

Monday 14th March 2016
quotequote all
Remove the woodruff key at the end of the shaft before it falls of and you lose it biggrin

Then I'd spray the bearing housing and shaft with some plus gas. There's probably some surface debris preventing the housing from sliding off. Give it a "gentle" tap, whilst supporting the shaft.

JimmyZZ

220 posts

186 months

Monday 14th March 2016
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Hello Matt

Don't worry the woodruff key is safe already.
And I have sprayed some antiseize on the shaft, too.
Now I will wait a while then give it a knock.
Thank you for your assistance!
Bestest regards
JimmyZZ

JimmyZZ

220 posts

186 months

Wednesday 16th March 2016
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Damn that was a real P.I.T.A.
Corrosion can be a major bugger. But now after just three hours of hammering, heating and cooling the shaft the bearing came off. Going to polish the rust off the shaft fit a new bearing and then put everything back together with some antiseize.
Good night everybody

m4tti

4,951 posts

119 months

Wednesday 16th March 2016
quotequote all
Well done Jimmy. I can remember doing the power steering belt the first time on mine and removing that bearing housing wasn't easy. Hence some specialist leave it rather than get into situations like snapping bolts off in the block!

JimmyZZ

220 posts

186 months

Thursday 17th March 2016
quotequote all
Removing the intermediate bearing was not easy.
To gain good access I removed
- the alternator
- the clamp holding the alternator to the motor
- the steering pump (remove the pulley from it, then you have access to the fixing allen bolts) I did not disconnect the lines so the fluid remains in.
- the pressure sender and sender line from motor
- the upper allen bolt from the motor bearing
- the oil filter

Removing all these things is essential to gain proper access to the allen bolts that fix the intermediate bearing to the motor. As said they are often seized and you better make shure you can use the allen key on them without obstacle so you don't spoil or break them.

And here is the result:



The woodruff keys holding the pulleys look like this

Here a good view of the corroded part that prevented the bearing from sliding off easily


The bearing has
an inner diameter of 20mm
an outer diameter of 42mm
an height of 12mm

Edited by JimmyZZ on Thursday 17th March 06:45

JimmyZZ

220 posts

186 months

Thursday 17th March 2016
quotequote all
The holder with the bearing:


Finally here the disassembled intermediate bearing:

This side faces backwards when on the shaft

This side faces frontwards, you can see cosmetical damage from my trials to get it off


Edited by JimmyZZ on Thursday 17th March 10:09

JimmyZZ

220 posts

186 months

Thursday 17th March 2016
quotequote all
The parts you need are:
2x E2943 drive belt (10.50 GBP +VAT each)
1 SKF 6004-2RSH ball bearing (about 12 Euros)



And much love for you car but that hurts sometime


nawarne

2,908 posts

224 months

Thursday 17th March 2016
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Jimmy - - that, Sir, is brilliant!

Well done, I'm going to bookmark this!

Nick

JimmyZZ

220 posts

186 months

Saturday 19th March 2016
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Just to complete the thread some pics of the reassembly
Cleaned and polished shaft. Corrosion marks only visible, not noticeable on touch

New belt on. Notice how clean everything is now! What seems like corrosion is just copper paste, on any bolts that go into aluminium use another antiseize. Copper paste would be corrosive.

Generator pulley on

And finished


If you think about doing the same, go for it!
The sooner the better. Time is not on your side on this one.

Edited by JimmyZZ on Wednesday 23 March 18:49


Edited by JimmyZZ on Friday 25th March 18:10

Ro55G

13 posts

3 months

Wednesday 10th February
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You star thanks for this thread,just changing mine on a cerb..bolt seized was a pig of a job!