For the love of Tuscan (project build)
Discussion
Thanks, that's interesting Fermit, is all TVR factory leather that type? I'm no leather expert, it does seem to be very good quality smooth/nappa (no grain) that wears well, but it does seem pouros as I have already treated it to a Neatsfoot oil main course albeit I left it for a few weeks to fully absorb, followed buy a NAF leather food desert and it's now beautifully soft and supple, something I would recommend to anyone leaving their TVR over the winter to do.
So as mentioned in an earlier post, my Tuscan's boot lid scuffs the rear screen when opening and closing and rests on the screen when closed and no amount of hinge adjustments would sort it. So as the Tuscan will be getting a respray I decided the only way forward was to re-profile the leading edge of the lid. Here's how I did it...
Just to proof my boot lid actually sits quite well...
But over the years the stress of the lid scuffing the screen has caused cracks in the leading edge...
I noticed that the leading edge had a straight section to it which doesn't help, and as it's just about the only straight line on the Tuscan's body I set about turning it into a curve to match the profile of the rear screen...
So about 8mm had to go...
I find a flap disc and angle grinder work really well on fibreglass...
No obvious difference viewed from the rear...
It deffinately improved things but it was still sat on the screen so the depth/thickness of the leading edge needs to be profiled as well. Obviously you need to be aware that the lid is made up of 2 halves (top side and underside) bonded together, and I noticed in 2 places the fibreglass became quite thin so I broke through it and pushed a mix of resin and fibreglass inside to add strength back in.
Sorted
New hinges and stainless gas strut fitted.
If your Tuscan has the same issue could get away without having the top of the boot lid painted and just paint the bare fibreglass black so it doesn't standout or get a rattle can paint match, mask off the top side and paint it yourself.
Just to proof my boot lid actually sits quite well...
But over the years the stress of the lid scuffing the screen has caused cracks in the leading edge...
I noticed that the leading edge had a straight section to it which doesn't help, and as it's just about the only straight line on the Tuscan's body I set about turning it into a curve to match the profile of the rear screen...
So about 8mm had to go...
I find a flap disc and angle grinder work really well on fibreglass...
No obvious difference viewed from the rear...
It deffinately improved things but it was still sat on the screen so the depth/thickness of the leading edge needs to be profiled as well. Obviously you need to be aware that the lid is made up of 2 halves (top side and underside) bonded together, and I noticed in 2 places the fibreglass became quite thin so I broke through it and pushed a mix of resin and fibreglass inside to add strength back in.
Sorted
New hinges and stainless gas strut fitted.
If your Tuscan has the same issue could get away without having the top of the boot lid painted and just paint the bare fibreglass black so it doesn't standout or get a rattle can paint match, mask off the top side and paint it yourself.
Edited by Modrich on Sunday 31st March 23:06
Modrich said:
Thanks, that's interesting Fermit, is all TVR factory leather that type? I'm no leather expert, it does seem to be very good quality smooth/nappa (no grain) that wears well, but it does seem pouros as I have already treated it to a Neatsfoot oil main course albeit I left it for a few weeks to fully absorb, followed buy a NAF leather food desert and it's now beautifully soft and supple, something I would recommend to anyone leaving their TVR over the winter to do.
Yes, all TVR leather is pigment coated. Think of it as being painted instead of dyed. If the product you're using works for you, then great, but it may well not be beneficial to the leather. It could contain oils amongst other things, which will give a short term 'feels nice', but medium to long term they will be royally buggering up the leather. Speaking as the owner of leather restoration company for 10+ years. Thanks Fermit, do you know who supplied their leather? My leather looks great but I'll keep an eye on it. It definitely needed a thorough clean, mould spores killed and 'moisturised' with something after 20years use. Looks and smells like new leather now.
BTW I normally use NAF Softsoap to clean leather seats, is that safe to use? It's an amazing cleaner and leaves the leather feeling like new.
BTW I normally use NAF Softsoap to clean leather seats, is that safe to use? It's an amazing cleaner and leaves the leather feeling like new.
Modrich said:
Thanks Fermit, do you know who supplied their leather? My leather looks great but I'll keep an eye on it. It definitely needed a thorough clean, mould spores killed and 'moisturised' with something after 20years use. Looks and smells like new leather now.
BTW I normally use NAF Softsoap to clean leather seats, is that safe to use? It's an amazing cleaner and leaves the leather feeling like new.
I don't I'm afraid. I worked alongside local upholsterers when I needed panels replacing, and I didn't know their suppliers. If you buy a hide make sure you're not buying Bonded Leather (the worst, re-constructed leather on a cotton or paper backing, ALWAYS fails) or Bi-Cast Leather (goes sticky over time) BTW I normally use NAF Softsoap to clean leather seats, is that safe to use? It's an amazing cleaner and leaves the leather feeling like new.
Without knowing Softsoap I couldn't say, but try to ensure that any cleaner you use is PH Neutral, and never use Baby Wipes.
Re the mould problem, this is the product you want - https://www.lttleathercare.com/product/em-clean/
Edited by Fermit on Monday 13th February 13:37
Fermit said:
Modrich said:
Thanks Fermit, do you know who supplied their leather? My leather looks great but I'll keep an eye on it. It definitely needed a thorough clean, mould spores killed and 'moisturised' with something after 20years use. Looks and smells like new leather now.
BTW I normally use NAF Softsoap to clean leather seats, is that safe to use? It's an amazing cleaner and leaves the leather feeling like new.
I don't I'm afraid. I worked alongside local upholsterers when I needed panels replacing, and I didn't know their suppliers. If you buy a hide make sure you're not buying Bonded Leather (the worst, re-constructed leather on a cotton or paper backing, ALWAYS fails) or Bi-Cast Leather (goes sticky over time) BTW I normally use NAF Softsoap to clean leather seats, is that safe to use? It's an amazing cleaner and leaves the leather feeling like new.
Without knowing Softsoap I couldn't say, but try to ensure that any cleaner you use is PH Neutral, and never use Baby Wipes.
Re the mould problem, this is the product you want - https://www.lttleathercare.com/product/em-clean/
Edited by Fermit on Monday 13th February 13:37
Fermit said:
Re the mould problem, this is the product you want - https://www.lttleathercare.com/product/em-clean/
Mould was sorted with my watered down distilled white vinegar recipe, believe me the leather only smells like a chippy for 2 or 3 days max afterwards then just smells like new leather 
I use this stuff for cleaning the leather, does a great job:
https://amzn.eu/d/1hMjAR2
Always find Dodo Juice products to be pretty high quality.
https://amzn.eu/d/1hMjAR2
Always find Dodo Juice products to be pretty high quality.
Modrich said:
Arrh yes makes sense, same place Adrian at Central TVR gets his leather from, Muirheads Russian blue is a good match for my Prussian Blue leather
It’s the same product that’s why it’s a match, just had a name change. Exactly what TVR used. I have the same colour and leather. ...that's what I meant, your Prussian blue seats, they're almost as rare as the paintwork on my Tuscan.
Speaking of which, I have literally stumbled across the exact colour of my Tuscan. When the car arrived with me I noticed there were window stickers on the quarterlights that were faded beyond recognition, or so I thought! When I came to scrape them off the other day, on closer inspection I could just about make out the very faint impression that read 'Paintwork by Custom Exotics'. So I gave them a call...when I explained to the guy that answered about my car he said, 'Oh you've got Jim's car!' And put me on to their painter Scott who straight away knew my car and the owner and remembered doing the job and most importantly the paint colour!
Turns out it's a House of Kolor paint called Ice Violet, and...he had enough sat on the shelf to paint my car! I offered to buy it off him but he wouldn't take my money, he was just happy to see it go to good use and was keen to see my car when finished. What a top bloke! I of course paid for the courier and some beer money but I now have 4 litres of pre-thinned House Of Kolor SG150 Intercoat Pearl & Flake Karrier with the right amount of IP04 Ice Violet flake mixed in with it. This is sprayed over a black base coat then lacquered. Scott has been really helpful and I can vouch for the quality of his work from how well and thoroughly my car was painted, so a big shout out to Scott at Custom Exotics in Harlow, Essex.
Here's the paint
Scott also saw the car after its recent accident and confirmed that it had been parked-up off the road when a car mounted the pavement and hit it in the rear shunting it into something else causing the slight damage to the front. He was prepared to do the paintwork again for the owner but the insurance wrote it off and he didn't get the chance.
So it turns out I had been sat on the answer to my cars unknown colour all along! House of Kolor IP04 Ice Violet...
Speaking of which, I have literally stumbled across the exact colour of my Tuscan. When the car arrived with me I noticed there were window stickers on the quarterlights that were faded beyond recognition, or so I thought! When I came to scrape them off the other day, on closer inspection I could just about make out the very faint impression that read 'Paintwork by Custom Exotics'. So I gave them a call...when I explained to the guy that answered about my car he said, 'Oh you've got Jim's car!' And put me on to their painter Scott who straight away knew my car and the owner and remembered doing the job and most importantly the paint colour!
Turns out it's a House of Kolor paint called Ice Violet, and...he had enough sat on the shelf to paint my car! I offered to buy it off him but he wouldn't take my money, he was just happy to see it go to good use and was keen to see my car when finished. What a top bloke! I of course paid for the courier and some beer money but I now have 4 litres of pre-thinned House Of Kolor SG150 Intercoat Pearl & Flake Karrier with the right amount of IP04 Ice Violet flake mixed in with it. This is sprayed over a black base coat then lacquered. Scott has been really helpful and I can vouch for the quality of his work from how well and thoroughly my car was painted, so a big shout out to Scott at Custom Exotics in Harlow, Essex.
Here's the paint
Scott also saw the car after its recent accident and confirmed that it had been parked-up off the road when a car mounted the pavement and hit it in the rear shunting it into something else causing the slight damage to the front. He was prepared to do the paintwork again for the owner but the insurance wrote it off and he didn't get the chance.
So it turns out I had been sat on the answer to my cars unknown colour all along! House of Kolor IP04 Ice Violet...
Edited by Modrich on Monday 1st April 09:47
LED rear lights
So I've decided to replace the old rear filament bulb light units with LED units. I wanted a symmetrical look as I don't like the look of a reverse light on one side and fog light on the other so to achieve this I needed a multipurpose LED unit, i.e. each unit has a combination of running lights/brake/fog/reverse/reflectors built in.
So the factory rear lights consist of outer driving/brake lights (75mm), fog inner right (75mm), reverse inner left (75mm) and reflectors x2 in between these lights (60mm).
So for the 75mm lights I chose these 70mm clear units, each unit has red driving LEDs, red brake/fog LEDs and white reverse LEDs so these can be fitted in all 4 75mm positions. These will be wire to give 4x red driving, 4x red brake lights and 4x white reverse lights (overkill I know but you can't have too much light when reversing in the dark)
And for the smaller 60mm reflectors I found these 59mm LED units that also act as a reflector with red driving and brighter red fog LEDs, I will wire these for driving and fog lights.
So I will have 6x red driving, 4x white reverse, 2x fog and 2x reflectors to cover all the bases. Should even things up at the rear and look well lit in the dark.
But before I can fit the 75mm unit I need to fill in the where the old 75mm light units were glued in place.
Discs cut from plastic/foam composite board...
And bonded in place which resin and fibreglass tape...
Lights test fitted, just need wiring up but will do this after the re-spray...
So I've decided to replace the old rear filament bulb light units with LED units. I wanted a symmetrical look as I don't like the look of a reverse light on one side and fog light on the other so to achieve this I needed a multipurpose LED unit, i.e. each unit has a combination of running lights/brake/fog/reverse/reflectors built in.
So the factory rear lights consist of outer driving/brake lights (75mm), fog inner right (75mm), reverse inner left (75mm) and reflectors x2 in between these lights (60mm).
So for the 75mm lights I chose these 70mm clear units, each unit has red driving LEDs, red brake/fog LEDs and white reverse LEDs so these can be fitted in all 4 75mm positions. These will be wire to give 4x red driving, 4x red brake lights and 4x white reverse lights (overkill I know but you can't have too much light when reversing in the dark)
And for the smaller 60mm reflectors I found these 59mm LED units that also act as a reflector with red driving and brighter red fog LEDs, I will wire these for driving and fog lights.
So I will have 6x red driving, 4x white reverse, 2x fog and 2x reflectors to cover all the bases. Should even things up at the rear and look well lit in the dark.
But before I can fit the 75mm unit I need to fill in the where the old 75mm light units were glued in place.
Discs cut from plastic/foam composite board...
And bonded in place which resin and fibreglass tape...
Lights test fitted, just need wiring up but will do this after the re-spray...
Edited by Modrich on Monday 1st April 10:18
Bonnet mods
The usual Allen Howell big bonnet gas struts fitted
Decided to do the same for the small bonnet and fit a single gas strut instead of the factory 'prop', but you need to cut a section out of the big bonnet to clear the strut when extended and to allow the small bonnet to fold away...
Test fit with the section cut away
And a cardboard template of the replacement section fitted...
Ready to bond a new fibreglass section in
Trimmed and filled
Test fit before final sanding
Next bodywork mod, LED rear lights...
The usual Allen Howell big bonnet gas struts fitted
Decided to do the same for the small bonnet and fit a single gas strut instead of the factory 'prop', but you need to cut a section out of the big bonnet to clear the strut when extended and to allow the small bonnet to fold away...
Test fit with the section cut away
And a cardboard template of the replacement section fitted...
Ready to bond a new fibreglass section in
Trimmed and filled
Test fit before final sanding
Next bodywork mod, LED rear lights...
Edited by Modrich on Monday 1st April 10:27
Sct_w4 looks like you've more to remove than me or you've put more back in ;-)
Thanks PG, more like Jack of...
Seems I'm at the stage where there's more bits off the car than on, and the more bits I remove the more I find needs to be removed but getting there slowly.
Next on the agenda:
windscreen chip repair
boot inner skin mod and solenoid relocation
dashpod repairs & new screen mod
window switches refurb & assign boot release and door lock functions to window switch push
fuel tank refurb
carbon seat backs
general stripdown for bodyshop...
Thanks PG, more like Jack of...
Seems I'm at the stage where there's more bits off the car than on, and the more bits I remove the more I find needs to be removed but getting there slowly.
Next on the agenda:
windscreen chip repair
boot inner skin mod and solenoid relocation
dashpod repairs & new screen mod
window switches refurb & assign boot release and door lock functions to window switch push
fuel tank refurb
carbon seat backs
general stripdown for bodyshop...
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