Discussion
Just started my new policy with "Green Insurance". Two reasons for this. Firstly they were over £1,000 cheaper than my renewal quote. Secondly they plant a load of trees to offset Carbon emmissions.
So why the t'shirt reference? They are a partner company of Qwick Fit Insurance and underwritten by Aviva. So going to a company that brokers deals for Aviva works out 10% of the price going to Aviva direct?
If you want to get a quote give them a call on 0844 8425448
If you're happy with your quote and go for it mention my postcode (via PM if you need it) and get £20 of high street vouchers as well.
I also get £20 of vouchers that would be used on beer and Jaffa Cakes.
That sounds familiar! I got a renewal quote for 1600 on my metro, informed them I had been quoted by another company £800 fully declared etc and the chap on the other end said, and I quote: "so if I knock £300 off you might be interested?"
Needless to say, I am only paying £800 now...
Needless to say, I am only paying £800 now...
So while I'm waiting for the new fuel pump to arrive I thought I'd run some carb' cleaner through in case I got some grit in the slow running jet.
Started the car on choke without the air box and all was normal until I let the choke off the car made the noisy fuel pump sound again and cut out. The thing is though this time it was a lot louder.
I traced the noise to this bit of pipe...
...it is a vacum pipe from the bottom of the carb that connects an air temprature probe in the airbox...
...to the cold/hot air delivery flap at the front of the airbox via this junction...
...this pipe didn't have a very good seal on the junction and it was leaking and is why I thought was the fuel pump diafram was leaking. To test this I blocked the end of the pipe with an M6 bolt and the car ran perfectly again. So it's either a leaking pipe or the plactic junction bit was knackered. I trimmed a few millimetres from the end of the pipe, put a cable tie around it...
..and made sure it was tight with a pair of pliers.
1.5p cable tie saves the day.
I'm such an idiot because it has been so long since I have worked on a carb' car that doesn't have either bike carb's a Webber or K&N style filters I'd forgotten the inner workings of a standard air box.
Started the car on choke without the air box and all was normal until I let the choke off the car made the noisy fuel pump sound again and cut out. The thing is though this time it was a lot louder.
I traced the noise to this bit of pipe...
...it is a vacum pipe from the bottom of the carb that connects an air temprature probe in the airbox...
...to the cold/hot air delivery flap at the front of the airbox via this junction...
...this pipe didn't have a very good seal on the junction and it was leaking and is why I thought was the fuel pump diafram was leaking. To test this I blocked the end of the pipe with an M6 bolt and the car ran perfectly again. So it's either a leaking pipe or the plactic junction bit was knackered. I trimmed a few millimetres from the end of the pipe, put a cable tie around it...
..and made sure it was tight with a pair of pliers.
1.5p cable tie saves the day.
I'm such an idiot because it has been so long since I have worked on a carb' car that doesn't have either bike carb's a Webber or K&N style filters I'd forgotten the inner workings of a standard air box.
Right so it isn't that either. Same symptomms today only once warm the car refused point blank to start. Good spark on all four, fuel was filling the carb' nicely and even with the air box open it would fire off sequence and stall the starter motor.
After about an hour of pilocking about I gave up and put everything back. She started first turn of the key and ticked like a well made watch again.
Got the car home turned the engine off, turned the key again and she fired up without a suggestion of throttle or choke.
Could something that was sucked up when I nearly ran out of petrol be acting like a valve against the fuel filter?
I'll replace that next.
After about an hour of pilocking about I gave up and put everything back. She started first turn of the key and ticked like a well made watch again.
Got the car home turned the engine off, turned the key again and she fired up without a suggestion of throttle or choke.
Could something that was sucked up when I nearly ran out of petrol be acting like a valve against the fuel filter?
I'll replace that next.
Replacing the fuel filter on a Rover 213S.
Up until 1987 the fuel pump had a screw in the top and an "O" ring so you could simply undo the top and clean/replace the filter mesh and if needs be pay one or two New Pence for a new "O" ring from your local plumbing suplies store. However; because my car is of 1988 vintage...
...it the newer sealed unit so the only way to change the filter is to change the pump.
Actually.
Pain in the cheeks bloody car if the new pump doesn't fix it I'm fitting a Tomcat/VVC/KV6/K1.8T/B20/B23!
While I was looking for things to swear about I took the one way valve off the main fuel line looked at it, breathed through it a few time to make sure it was working and put it back on again.
If the new pump doesn't arrive tomorrow I hope the weather's okay Saturday because I'll be cycling to work.
Up until 1987 the fuel pump had a screw in the top and an "O" ring so you could simply undo the top and clean/replace the filter mesh and if needs be pay one or two New Pence for a new "O" ring from your local plumbing suplies store. However; because my car is of 1988 vintage...
...it the newer sealed unit so the only way to change the filter is to change the pump.
Actually.
Pain in the cheeks bloody car if the new pump doesn't fix it I'm fitting a Tomcat/VVC/KV6/K1.8T/B20/B23!
While I was looking for things to swear about I took the one way valve off the main fuel line looked at it, breathed through it a few time to make sure it was working and put it back on again.
If the new pump doesn't arrive tomorrow I hope the weather's okay Saturday because I'll be cycling to work.
Keep it to strictly to yourself LK that you are thinking about replacing that bullet proof Honda engine ... .... with one of Rover's finest, the T series turbo or even one of the excellent little K-Series variants. Otherwise, you risk the foreign is best, Rovers are rubbish mindsets on this site forming long queues to castigate you for your erroneous ways....
I would not be in any of those queues though as I am a keen enthusiast for both the K and T-Series Rover engines.
Good luck with the 213.... possibly soon to become a 200 ps little Rover...
More seriously, hot engine starting problems could be fuel becoming too hot in the fuel lines after switching off leading to fuel starvation until the fuel cools again.
.
.... with one of Rover's finest, the T series turbo or even one of the excellent little K-Series variants. Otherwise, you risk the foreign is best, Rovers are rubbish mindsets on this site forming long queues to castigate you for your erroneous ways.... I would not be in any of those queues though as I am a keen enthusiast for both the K and T-Series Rover engines.
Good luck with the 213.... possibly soon to become a 200 ps little Rover...
More seriously, hot engine starting problems could be fuel becoming too hot in the fuel lines after switching off leading to fuel starvation until the fuel cools again.
.
New pump arrived today...
..."made in Japan"
Complete with new pipe and clamps.
So take the air box off so you can access the pipework...
...and remove...
...next take the plastic cover away from the pump so you can get to the retaining nuts...
...and that's the old pump off...
...fit the new pump in place...
...plumb in the new pipework...
...I fitted an inline filter for reassurance (the filter cost more than the new pump)...
...I then started the car without the air box to make sure all of the pipework was sealed. Put the air box back on as the car appeared to be back to normal (when cold I never had any trouble anyway).
Drove the car to the shop and was a bit spluttery all the way there and failed to start for a ten minutes after I had been in the shop for five minutes. Once eventually started if the rpm dropped below 1000 the engine would cut out and not start again. Grrrrr! Next.
..."made in Japan"
Complete with new pipe and clamps.
So take the air box off so you can access the pipework...
...and remove...
...next take the plastic cover away from the pump so you can get to the retaining nuts...
...and that's the old pump off...
...fit the new pump in place...
...plumb in the new pipework...
...I fitted an inline filter for reassurance (the filter cost more than the new pump)...
...I then started the car without the air box to make sure all of the pipework was sealed. Put the air box back on as the car appeared to be back to normal (when cold I never had any trouble anyway).
Drove the car to the shop and was a bit spluttery all the way there and failed to start for a ten minutes after I had been in the shop for five minutes. Once eventually started if the rpm dropped below 1000 the engine would cut out and not start again. Grrrrr! Next.
Got the old girl going again and the spluteryness was different this time. So I took the distributor cap off to find the worst looking rotor arm and cap I have ever seen. The centre HT pin was had burned away level with the casing no wonder it wasn't running very well if the contacts were this crap.
WD40 in the cap to get me home and I've ordered a new set.
WD40 in the cap to get me home and I've ordered a new set.
Liquid Knight said:
Long day at work today. Easy Sunday for you lot but the first Tuesday of the week for me (I have two a week). So I was bored and found a copy of J Tuner magazine holding the toilet window open and was inspired to try this...
...
That mod is well worth at least a 20% power boost according to a young Saxo driving lad down the road... ...
Make that a 20% boost in noise levels... .
Liquid Knight said:
So you got your new locks for a quid? Good one.
So that's the rotor arm and cap replaced.
Here's why...
...the centre pin of the cap was burned due to the missfiring caused by the fuel pump being faulty...
...making the current have to arc across to the rotor arm. This made the car miss noticably but not as bad as when the pump was at fault. Cause, effect and cure.
Edited by Liquid Knight on Wednesday 16th November 22:08
That's a shame. Would have been a fun Q-car.
Anyway the locks and ignition barrel arrived yesterday still with the car lot tag on the keys. F956 WSV was the blue one that was for sale on car and classic a few weeks ago. Two owners, 32,000 miles, history file; the lot. I left messages with the owner as I wanted the car for myself so I could turn my car into a an 80's BTCC inspired rocket.
Whoever bought the car must have thought it was worth more as spares and hadn't checked to see there were only 43 SD3's on the road and the demand for spares is so low I was the only bidder and three of only seven views of the item listing.
What a waste.
Still In about half an hour I'll have a colum mounted ignition for the first time in eight months.
Anyway the locks and ignition barrel arrived yesterday still with the car lot tag on the keys. F956 WSV was the blue one that was for sale on car and classic a few weeks ago. Two owners, 32,000 miles, history file; the lot. I left messages with the owner as I wanted the car for myself so I could turn my car into a an 80's BTCC inspired rocket.
Whoever bought the car must have thought it was worth more as spares and hadn't checked to see there were only 43 SD3's on the road and the demand for spares is so low I was the only bidder and three of only seven views of the item listing.
What a waste.
Still In about half an hour I'll have a colum mounted ignition for the first time in eight months.
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