Slave Cylinder
Discussion
Hi
I have my gearbox out and while I'm there I might install a raceproved slave.
Is it a big job?
Do I need any special tools?
Does the slave come with a bearing that presses on the clutch plate fingers? (Mine rattles when not in gear at idle)
Does anyone have some pics of a disassembled clutch and slave?
Any advice or insight would be greatly appreciated!
Best wishes
Aide
I have my gearbox out and while I'm there I might install a raceproved slave.
Is it a big job?
Do I need any special tools?
Does the slave come with a bearing that presses on the clutch plate fingers? (Mine rattles when not in gear at idle)
Does anyone have some pics of a disassembled clutch and slave?
Any advice or insight would be greatly appreciated!
Best wishes
Aide
Having just changed my standard slave seals I have a question to ask.
Do you have to remove the bell housing to remove the slave as a unit?
I removed the complete bell housing to help me remove the two lower slave cylinder screws as they were siezed solid. Assuming you can remove all four screws can the slave be removed and refitted?
Do you have to remove the bell housing to remove the slave as a unit?
I removed the complete bell housing to help me remove the two lower slave cylinder screws as they were siezed solid. Assuming you can remove all four screws can the slave be removed and refitted?
Just to labour the point (since the professional who changed the seals on mine just before I bought got it wrong)...
Do not use ordinary multi-purpose grease or any other oil to lubricate the slave cylinder seals when assembling / installing.
Only use Red Rubber Grease. Anything else will dissolve the seals and you'll be back on the AA truck shortly afterwards.
Do not use ordinary multi-purpose grease or any other oil to lubricate the slave cylinder seals when assembling / installing.
Only use Red Rubber Grease. Anything else will dissolve the seals and you'll be back on the AA truck shortly afterwards.
Only been driving around town on various errands today (which I suppose is as tough a test as you'd like, particularly in Sheffield with hill starts a-plenty!!) and apart from the clutch biting point being a lot higher than it used to be (new clutch I s'pose) then it feels fine.
I had thought about a higher spec clutch, but I didn't want anything too "grabby" which would ruin the driveability of the car... so it's all fine for me.
I had thought about a higher spec clutch, but I didn't want anything too "grabby" which would ruin the driveability of the car... so it's all fine for me.
Hi
I have my gearbox out and while I'm there I might install a raceproved slave.
>>>> I would recommend this
Is it a big job?
Do I need any special tools?
>>>> Compared to the Gearbox extraction, it is a piece of …..
>>>> Remove the RH Hydraulic Line to Slave.
>>>> Remove the Bellhousing.
(I would recommend removing the Starter Motor)
>>>> Remove the four Allen screws (Countersunk on original fitment)
>>>> Press the slave out.
>>>> Drift the Bore out of the Bellhousing.
Does the slave come with a bearing that presses on the clutch plate fingers? (Mine rattles when not in gear at idle)
>>>> I firmly believe in NOT overtightening the Slave-to-Fingers gap.
>>>> A lot of broken hands are created this way.
>>>> (Can be finalised at Master Cylinder pushrod adjustment stage).
>>>> The RP unit comes, ready assembled and Yes, it does press on the fingers
Does anyone have some pics of a disassembled clutch and slave?
>>>> I have enough photos to fill ‘The Cloud’. Here are a few to give you and idea.
Any advice or insight would be greatly appreciated!
Bellhousing with original Slave (Exterior)
Bellhousing with original Slave (Interior)
Fingerless Pack
Bellhousing with Slave removed and Bore remaining (Interior)
Bellhousing with Slave removed and Bore remaining (Exterior)
Original Slave disassembled
RP and original slaves
RP Slave seal requiring lubrication
Slave Bore showing 0 / 180 Deg Bleed Holes
Drifting Slave Bore back in
New Clutch pack allighned
Pack with fake Slave
(Showing bearing rubbing surface on Fingers)
RP Slave assembled
Repositioning Gbox into remounted Bellhousing
Best o'
I have my gearbox out and while I'm there I might install a raceproved slave.
>>>> I would recommend this
Is it a big job?
Do I need any special tools?
>>>> Compared to the Gearbox extraction, it is a piece of …..
>>>> Remove the RH Hydraulic Line to Slave.
>>>> Remove the Bellhousing.
(I would recommend removing the Starter Motor)
>>>> Remove the four Allen screws (Countersunk on original fitment)
>>>> Press the slave out.
>>>> Drift the Bore out of the Bellhousing.
Does the slave come with a bearing that presses on the clutch plate fingers? (Mine rattles when not in gear at idle)
>>>> I firmly believe in NOT overtightening the Slave-to-Fingers gap.
>>>> A lot of broken hands are created this way.
>>>> (Can be finalised at Master Cylinder pushrod adjustment stage).
>>>> The RP unit comes, ready assembled and Yes, it does press on the fingers
Does anyone have some pics of a disassembled clutch and slave?
>>>> I have enough photos to fill ‘The Cloud’. Here are a few to give you and idea.
Any advice or insight would be greatly appreciated!
Bellhousing with original Slave (Exterior)
Bellhousing with original Slave (Interior)
Fingerless Pack
Bellhousing with Slave removed and Bore remaining (Interior)
Bellhousing with Slave removed and Bore remaining (Exterior)
Original Slave disassembled
RP and original slaves
RP Slave seal requiring lubrication
Slave Bore showing 0 / 180 Deg Bleed Holes
Drifting Slave Bore back in
New Clutch pack allighned
Pack with fake Slave
(Showing bearing rubbing surface on Fingers)
RP Slave assembled
Repositioning Gbox into remounted Bellhousing
Best o'
Edited by Mr Cerbera on Saturday 11th July 11:53
chaps
one other thing which doesn't seem to be common knowledge but its quite possible to overstroke the clutch fingers if your pedal isn't set up with some sort of hard stop
as the pedal position is sometimes adjusted using the pushrod length you can have the situation where every pedal push is flexing the clutch fingers past their operating point and its this that leads to them breaking
fit some sort of hard stop under the carpet to give a solid stop and adjsut the pushrod so that the pedal at full stroke only just releases the clutch and this will greatly increase clutch finger life
one other thing which doesn't seem to be common knowledge but its quite possible to overstroke the clutch fingers if your pedal isn't set up with some sort of hard stop
as the pedal position is sometimes adjusted using the pushrod length you can have the situation where every pedal push is flexing the clutch fingers past their operating point and its this that leads to them breaking
fit some sort of hard stop under the carpet to give a solid stop and adjsut the pushrod so that the pedal at full stroke only just releases the clutch and this will greatly increase clutch finger life
Edited by 350Matt on Tuesday 20th August 12:59
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