Discussion
The n/s drive shaft hub cv joint is leaking so I am looking to change it or at least remove it and see what’s going on.
I have seen on the Dave Mac site that you can buy just the cv joint and therefore save the cost of a complete drive shaft. Is it good practice to change both cv joints or should I just change the whole drive shaft which has around 45t miles in 21 years?
Visually the drive shaft looks ok!
With the wheel removed and turning the hub it has maybe half an inch of play in it before the drive shaft starts turning. Is this a sign that I should be replacing them and not just the cv joints?
Cheers
Martin.
I have seen on the Dave Mac site that you can buy just the cv joint and therefore save the cost of a complete drive shaft. Is it good practice to change both cv joints or should I just change the whole drive shaft which has around 45t miles in 21 years?
Visually the drive shaft looks ok!
With the wheel removed and turning the hub it has maybe half an inch of play in it before the drive shaft starts turning. Is this a sign that I should be replacing them and not just the cv joints?
Cheers
Martin.
Martin_MUC said:
The n/s drive shaft hub cv joint is leaking so I am looking to change it or at least remove it and see what’s going on.
I have seen on the Dave Mac site that you can buy just the cv joint and therefore save the cost of a complete drive shaft. Is it good practice to change both cv joints or should I just change the whole drive shaft which has around 45t miles in 21 years?
Visually the drive shaft looks ok!
With the wheel removed and turning the hub it has maybe half an inch of play in it before the drive shaft starts turning. Is this a sign that I should be replacing them and not just the cv joints?
Cheers
Martin.
It's a common CV you can pick up for £30 odd (Porsche 930). I have seen on the Dave Mac site that you can buy just the cv joint and therefore save the cost of a complete drive shaft. Is it good practice to change both cv joints or should I just change the whole drive shaft which has around 45t miles in 21 years?
Visually the drive shaft looks ok!
With the wheel removed and turning the hub it has maybe half an inch of play in it before the drive shaft starts turning. Is this a sign that I should be replacing them and not just the cv joints?
Cheers
Martin.
I've just done this, I always think if one is worn, and it's not because it ran dry, the others can't be far behind.. So I would do all 4.
Shafts, I just had a set made too by Berrisfords. They remove the inner circlip groove, which is the failure point.
Cheers for that.
Like these here......
https://www.autoteiledirekt.de/oenumber/9303320340...
Including original GKN parts which are at the upper end of the price range.
The OE number was taken from Porsche.
Like these here......
https://www.autoteiledirekt.de/oenumber/9303320340...
Including original GKN parts which are at the upper end of the price range.
The OE number was taken from Porsche.
Martin_MUC said:
Cheers for that.
Like these here......
https://www.autoteiledirekt.de/oenumber/9303320340...
Including original GKN parts which are at the upper end of the price range.
The OE number was taken from Porsche.
Those are the ones! Like these here......
https://www.autoteiledirekt.de/oenumber/9303320340...
Including original GKN parts which are at the upper end of the price range.
The OE number was taken from Porsche.
Are the driveshafts on a cerb the same as on a chim?
If so, the later shouldered shafts are much stronger than the earlier drive shafts with the circlip groove.
My shouldered driveshafts put up with 400 BHP, drag radials, a burn out first and sidestepping the clutch on the dragstrip. I did shear the stub axle inside the hub, the shafts were fine!
If so, the later shouldered shafts are much stronger than the earlier drive shafts with the circlip groove.
My shouldered driveshafts put up with 400 BHP, drag radials, a burn out first and sidestepping the clutch on the dragstrip. I did shear the stub axle inside the hub, the shafts were fine!
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