Door solenoid

Door solenoid

Author
Discussion

milothepeanut

Original Poster:

89 posts

131 months

Wednesday 9th June
quotequote all
Is there a How To on door solenoid for the Cebera on here?

Imran999

199 posts

121 months

Thursday 10th June
quotequote all
There isn’t a great write-up.
It was the first job i did on my car, and I took some pics and intended to do one, but never got around to it.

So, here’s a quick ‘live attempt’.

- Assuming drivers door solenoid is to be replaced.
- Mechanism located behind the ‘C’ pillar trim
- Remove the lower back-rest portion of the rear-seat (driver’s side), 3 nuts with large washers accessible from driver side rear wheel arch - I recommend removing the wheel. The nuts were m6 if I remember correctly, and the threads were very long, so it took ages to get each nut off. The washers were sika-flexed to the body, but at some point fell to the floor of their own will
- Remove the base of the rear seat (2 nuts under the car with two large washers, nicely obscured by the chassis outrigger tube that runs directly under the seat base)
- Remove the seat belt receptacle - large hex bolt
- Now the C-pillar trim can be pulled away from the pillar, but be very careful, it can easily break where the slot for the seat belt is located, so use a bulldog clip and some paper to bridge and add strength
- I was unable to pull the trim completely away, it is fixed up near or behind the speaker, and I couldn’t figure out how
- I was able to pull it about 6-8” away and that was enough to get to the mechanism
- The mechanism is a regular door latch system with a solenoid valve attached and two release cables (bicycle brake cables), one for the boot mounted release and one for the drivers sill mounted release
- In my case, the solenoid would always fire, but the door wouldn’t always open - I deduced that this was because the piston on the valve wasn’t fully retracting after each fire. There is an accordion style boot on the piston and this helps to bring it back, but this boot had come unstuck from the main body of the valve. I replaced the whole solenoid anyway, because I had a spare anyway

Reinstallation is the same steps in reverse.

Good luck, and send me a message through the forum if you get stuck, happy to help.

milothepeanut

Original Poster:

89 posts

131 months

Thursday 10th June
quotequote all
Okay the solenoid is out. Does anyone know the part number or what these come from please?

DuncanM

4,356 posts

247 months

Friday 11th June
quotequote all
Imran999 said:
There isn’t a great write-up.
It was the first job i did on my car, and I took some pics and intended to do one, but never got around to it.

So, here’s a quick ‘live attempt’.

- Assuming drivers door solenoid is to be replaced.
- Mechanism located behind the ‘C’ pillar trim
- Remove the lower back-rest portion of the rear-seat (driver’s side), 3 nuts with large washers accessible from driver side rear wheel arch - I recommend removing the wheel. The nuts were m6 if I remember correctly, and the threads were very long, so it took ages to get each nut off. The washers were sika-flexed to the body, but at some point fell to the floor of their own will
- Remove the base of the rear seat (2 nuts under the car with two large washers, nicely obscured by the chassis outrigger tube that runs directly under the seat base)
- Remove the seat belt receptacle - large hex bolt
- Now the C-pillar trim can be pulled away from the pillar, but be very careful, it can easily break where the slot for the seat belt is located, so use a bulldog clip and some paper to bridge and add strength
- I was unable to pull the trim completely away, it is fixed up near or behind the speaker, and I couldn’t figure out how
- I was able to pull it about 6-8” away and that was enough to get to the mechanism
- The mechanism is a regular door latch system with a solenoid valve attached and two release cables (bicycle brake cables), one for the boot mounted release and one for the drivers sill mounted release
- In my case, the solenoid would always fire, but the door wouldn’t always open - I deduced that this was because the piston on the valve wasn’t fully retracting after each fire. There is an accordion style boot on the piston and this helps to bring it back, but this boot had come unstuck from the main body of the valve. I replaced the whole solenoid anyway, because I had a spare anyway

Reinstallation is the same steps in reverse.

Good luck, and send me a message through the forum if you get stuck, happy to help.
Saved for future use, thank you smile

ukkid35

5,570 posts

141 months

Friday 11th June
quotequote all
Be aware that the door lock mechanism has a lever that isolates the catch, presumably used as a child lock on the cars to which it was originally fitted



Edited by ukkid35 on Friday 11th June 08:48

Imran999

199 posts

121 months

Saturday 12th June
quotequote all
Oh yes, I remember reading about this, thanks Paul, very useful tip.