My Cerbera repair/engine rebuild etc.

[DuncanM]

If you mean the wire on mine it was real easy, quicker than I thought. The wire ran above the fuel tank into the fusebox. It's just a standard spade type connector. I had some lying around so I just crimped it onto some fat wire and ran it. And I ran a fatter wire for the earth too.

On my car, the wire goes:

Pump > Fuel Cutoff switch > Immobiliser > Fuse box.

I had trouble this year with the FC switch connector not being firmly connected, causing the pump not to prime.

[ukkid35]

DuncanM said:

On my car, the wire goes:

Pump > Fuel Cutoff switch > Immobiliser > Fuse box.

I had trouble this year with the FC switch connector not being firmly connected, causing the pump not to prime.

Thanks - Sounds like a job for a helper relay in between the Pump and Fuel Cutoff

[mrniceguy351]

I need to make shorter videos! At least I can now edit out me saying "gopro stop recording" haha.

[CER927]

ukkid35 said:

DuncanM said:

On my car, the wire goes:

Pump > Fuel Cutoff switch > Immobiliser > Fuse box.

I had trouble this year with the FC switch connector not being firmly connected, causing the pump not to prime.

Thanks - Sounds like a job for a helper relay in between the Pump and Fuel Cutoff

[mrniceguy351]

After a 6 week holiday I'm back making questionable content!

[ukkid35]

Be very careful with the water pump impellers, they are absurdly expensive

Also, be careful when fitting the new ceramic seals, I chipped one somehow, and that caused quite a delay because I didn't have a spare

If you fit a new aux shaft, then you will also need a new steering pump coupler

Finally, never let a fragment of broken pressure relief valve spring get sucked in to the oil pump, or you will be in for a world of pain

[mrniceguy351]

Yeah I'm planning on leaving the impellors on the shaft, I don't see any reason to remove them.

I've ordered an ultrasonic cleaner, hopefully it will arrive soon!

The next jobs are clutch slave, heat coating in the engine bay, and wrapping and painting the exhausts.

[Rufus Roughcut]

Check this area carefully (See red arrow).





If it's pitted? obviously the seal won't work, a tell tale sign of the seal/shaft failing is oil dripping from the little 'D' shaped orifice where the water pump and oil pump housing meet.

I know every situation is different, you know those jobs that should take 5 mins but end up taking hours just to add my impellors were quite easy to remove, slightly heated and they came off real easy.

Edited by Rufus Roughcut on Saturday 13th May 09:26

[ukkid35]

As Rufus says, you do need to make sure that there's no corrosion where the Aux shaft meets the seals

If in doubt, replace the aux shaft

[MulticolouredTVR]

Fantastic to see. I’m in Newcastle, NSW and have one of my Cerbera’s on a boat at the moment on its way over here. My Tuscan S is leaving the UK at the end of June and I’m returning to the UK in August to package up my Cerbera Speed 6 project car and get that shipped over here too.

[mrniceguy351]

Another long winded video!

[/youtube]https://youtu.be/ZPuTnq2Ll3o?si=GQ8fEGg3MF4DTH1a[/youtube]

[Flatplane8]

just started watching the latest vid!

[mrniceguy351]

The shaft was mint. In fact the whole thing was in very good condition, I probably could of left it alone, but of course you don't know that till you pull it apart!

[mrniceguy351]

[FarmyardPants]

mrniceguy351 said:

Great video, I am going through the same but from under the car. As you say it is not easy but doable if you have a spare spigot shaft to align the clutch (Thanks Peter!). I have my gearbox back on and like you the last 4 or 5mm needed the bolts to close the gap, but they were also very easy to tighten so I was not overly worried.

I am a bit concerned about the orientation of your Tilton slave, though - the feed hose should really enter at the bottom and the bleed line exit from the top. I would use the bolt at the 11 o'clock position for the retaining pin rather than the one at 8 o'clock that you've used. My 4 bolts are horizontal and vertical (NW, NE, SE and SW) so I used the NW bolt which aligned the hoses perfectly vertically. It doesn't matter if it's not exactly vertical of course but I worry that, as you have it mounted, the fluid will just flow straight across and out again when you try to bleed it. I'm not sure how this will work with the holes you've made for the hoses though, you might need to make another one .

I would also keep the starter shim if it had it fitted before, without it the gears don't always mesh properly.

Edited by FarmyardPants on Sunday 31st March 12:31

[FarmyardPants]

Also I would keep the starter - perhaps a bit of epoxy to stabilise the connection a bit but I don't think it's a write-off.

Edited by FarmyardPants on Sunday 31st March 13:00

[mrniceguy351]

Yeah I found a replacement solenoid on eBay, hopefully it will work.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281460072850?mkcid=16&...


I will put my thinking cap on about the slave orientation.

[mrniceguy351]

[Supateg]

Really interesting to see the injector rail hone idea…. I will bear that in mind next time I’m “in that area”.

I’d did a similar approach on the original slave to bellhousing surfaces…originally too rough.

I do share your thinking of improving.