Recommended Oil
Discussion
You should find that the vaseline melts quickly, and then (most of it) will evaporate once the encine gets up to temperature. It'll leave a certain amount of residue in the oil, but I suppose that it's been decided that it's acceptable.
Remember that Vaseline is just petroleum jelly, so it comes out of the same hole in the ground as the oil in your sump
James
Remember that Vaseline is just petroleum jelly, so it comes out of the same hole in the ground as the oil in your sump
James
"It (Vaseline) mixes with the oil, but don't forget it is a good lubricant."
"It'll leave a certain amount of residue in the oil, but I suppose that it's been decided that it's acceptable."
"It comes out of the same hole in the ground as the oil in your sump."
These seems like remarkable comments in a thread that's been sensitive to the subtle distinctions between Mobil 1 and Millers 10W40 Synthetic. Does anyone think that any of the motor oils previously discussed in this thread contain Vaseline on purpose?
"It'll leave a certain amount of residue in the oil, but I suppose that it's been decided that it's acceptable."
"It comes out of the same hole in the ground as the oil in your sump."
These seems like remarkable comments in a thread that's been sensitive to the subtle distinctions between Mobil 1 and Millers 10W40 Synthetic. Does anyone think that any of the motor oils previously discussed in this thread contain Vaseline on purpose?
quote:
Change the oil and the filter & 3000 or just oil...
never really understood this changing road car oil at 3k miles thing. you've got an engine that's less highly stressed than the one in my cavalier (typical TVR at 50 bhp per litre - not exactly highly stressed) limited to around 6 k revs or less. At what mileage does oil stop being a good lubricant? and why can some car engines go for 20k miles or more without an oil change, and some charcoal filters on toyotas etc go for 60k miles before being changed! OK so charcoal filters aren't on TVRs but I'm just pointing out that I don't believe you get any extra protection changing at 3k miles, in fact isn't 6k too often? .. any oil chemists out there actually KNOW about this? or is it hearsay? (crap group btw!!!)
cheerz .. Joolz - just trying to get to the facts.
Just noticed this thread...
I like the sound of these new 'wide grade' oils (0W/50 etc). I read the words that say '50 year old engine built with tolerances like a barn door'.
Then I recall that when I had my V8 in bits I didn't see too many barn doors. I saw plenty of wear, but I also saw plenty of close-fitting components (like 0.5 of a thou" close-fitting!).
So I ponder things for a while, and I put Castrol GTX (20W/50) in. The engine works. Every few thousand miles I 'll change it. At the momemt it's done 3000 miles since I rebuilt the engine, and the oil is the same colour as when I put it in. If it was black and shitty I'd think "Hmmm, combustion by-products" and change it. As I can't see the effects of the oil molecules being compressed, heated and sheared, I may be making a mistake. But I know I'll pay for it if I'm wrong.
Also, I seem to recall reading somewhere (may have been on April 1st though!) that oil filters 'become' more efficient once they've been used for a while, so changing the filter willy-nilly is actually bad practise. I 'normally' (if such things apply to TVRs) change the filter every other oil change. Have done this for years on everything I've owned from 250cc Suzukis to the 390SE. As far as I know I've never had an engine wear problem exacerbated by this technique: I always seem to buy someone else's wear instead!
Ian
I like the sound of these new 'wide grade' oils (0W/50 etc). I read the words that say '50 year old engine built with tolerances like a barn door'.
Then I recall that when I had my V8 in bits I didn't see too many barn doors. I saw plenty of wear, but I also saw plenty of close-fitting components (like 0.5 of a thou" close-fitting!).
So I ponder things for a while, and I put Castrol GTX (20W/50) in. The engine works. Every few thousand miles I 'll change it. At the momemt it's done 3000 miles since I rebuilt the engine, and the oil is the same colour as when I put it in. If it was black and shitty I'd think "Hmmm, combustion by-products" and change it. As I can't see the effects of the oil molecules being compressed, heated and sheared, I may be making a mistake. But I know I'll pay for it if I'm wrong.
Also, I seem to recall reading somewhere (may have been on April 1st though!) that oil filters 'become' more efficient once they've been used for a while, so changing the filter willy-nilly is actually bad practise. I 'normally' (if such things apply to TVRs) change the filter every other oil change. Have done this for years on everything I've owned from 250cc Suzukis to the 390SE. As far as I know I've never had an engine wear problem exacerbated by this technique: I always seem to buy someone else's wear instead!
Ian
quote:
quote:
Change the oil and the filter & 3000 or just oil...
never really understood this changing road car oil at 3k miles thing. you've got an engine that's less highly stressed than the one in my cavalier (typical TVR at 50 bhp per litre - not exactly highly stressed) limited to around 6 k revs or less. At what mileage does oil stop being a good lubricant? and why can some car engines go for 20k miles or more without an oil change, and some charcoal filters on toyotas etc go for 60k miles before being changed! OK so charcoal filters aren't on TVRs but I'm just pointing out that I don't believe you get any extra protection changing at 3k miles, in fact isn't 6k too often? .. any oil chemists out there actually KNOW about this? or is it hearsay? (crap group btw!!!)
cheerz .. Joolz - just trying to get to the facts.
Can't remember who said it 3,000 miles/change for mineral oils, they degrade more at high temperatures but they're cheaper, so usefull for cars that get a lot of abuse / raced frequent engine rebuild /inspection etc. Modern synthetics are much less prone to this so change 6,000 miles is fine. More frequently isn't going to harm anything except your wallet though.
Is a synthetic better protection for those 3,000 miles ? I dunno
Should you change even a synthetic oil after a track day ? I dunno that either.
Like you say, be interesting to hear from an oil chemist who REALLY knows
quote:
Oil and filter cheap, new engine expensive - not brainer IMHO.
Aren't Rover V8s susceptable to sludge in the oil ways (cam area), so the more frequent the better
Danny
Yes that is one of the reasons I suggested 3,000 miles. Also after lots of driving experience with the Rover V8 (I jave had 6 cars with these engines (plus driven another two R/Rovers regularly) the engine tends to destroy the oil, pressure starts to drop after about 3,000 miles and is totally restored with an oil change. Just my personal preference!
Edited to erase stupidity!
>> Edited by kevinday on Wednesday 2nd October 07:01
).quote:
My Griff 500 has just come back from Thames Valley Racetech (very good bunch btw) after a 36K service.
It now has a semi-synthetic 10w/40 in it. They swear by it rather than Mobil 1. However that are a couple of different specifications, A3 is the one to use. As far as make, he said that any quality make would be fine as long as it was to the 10w/40 A3 spec.
I suspect you'll find they now swear by the Millers fully synthetic oil that they have recently sourced...
quote:
Aren't Rover V8s susceptable to sludge in the oil ways
Yes that is one of the reasons I suggested 3,000 miles
It does, this is with mineral, which IMHO is better for the Rover engine
Kevin,
Sorry to paraphrase, but if mineral oil is likely to sludge quicker and a Rover engine suscepible to sludging oil, why on earth would you want to put that in as opposed to a fully synth that lasts longer and doesn't sludge
Or am I missing something here
PS using Millers fully synth at the moment, no drop of pressure when hot and the first 1000 miles haven't seen any change in pressures when hot or cold, I'll keep you posted
A couple of points before going any further:
Questioning anyone's choice of oil for a Rover is like entering a religious debate. Some choices are based on acts of faith, some are based on ancient texts and others are on the latest scientific reasoning.
Don't forget the oil police are monitoring this discussion
Steve
Questioning anyone's choice of oil for a Rover is like entering a religious debate. Some choices are based on acts of faith, some are based on ancient texts and others are on the latest scientific reasoning.
Don't forget the oil police are monitoring this discussion
Steve
I recently found out that Castrol GTX Magnatec 15W/40 "for conventional engines" (on which my Chimaera 500 currently runs) is a semi-synthetic, whilst the standard GTX 15W/40 is a mineral oil.
I'd always assumed that both were mineral oils, just one had the super-whizzy-sticky-molecules-bollocks stuff.
I'd always assumed that both were mineral oils, just one had the super-whizzy-sticky-molecules-bollocks stuff.
quote:
So Steve, is there a God or what ?
There is the great god Gaffa to whom I make many sacrifices by covering the 520 in Gaffa tape. Typically I buy this stuff in boxes of 24 rolls at a time. I need all the help I can get.
If the car is broken, then several rolls of Gaffa tape on the bodywork will hold it together because the Great God Gaffa will look kindly. If you use just a few strips he will not be happy and then other things start to happen.
If you go out without a roll or three of gaffa tape in the car, then you are tempting his wraith and strange things will start to happen.
Steve
Hi all,
have got the Rover V8 3.5 litre in a Range Rover and recommended oil by land rover is a 20/50. David Hardcastle's book on the Rover V8 says that a 'thick oil' is best for the V8 due to the relatively low pressure that the engine runs at. The engine oil system was designed to be low pressure - high volume - hence the size of the oil pump gears. As the Chimaera engine and all Rover V8s seem to run at the same oil pressure (around 30psi) I would think that this principal is correct for them all. Must say that I am have Mobil 1 in my Chimaera 450 at the moment but the thick oil thing makes sense - don't know if I've go the guts to test the theory though?!
Matthew
have got the Rover V8 3.5 litre in a Range Rover and recommended oil by land rover is a 20/50. David Hardcastle's book on the Rover V8 says that a 'thick oil' is best for the V8 due to the relatively low pressure that the engine runs at. The engine oil system was designed to be low pressure - high volume - hence the size of the oil pump gears. As the Chimaera engine and all Rover V8s seem to run at the same oil pressure (around 30psi) I would think that this principal is correct for them all. Must say that I am have Mobil 1 in my Chimaera 450 at the moment but the thick oil thing makes sense - don't know if I've go the guts to test the theory though?!
Matthew
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