Driver side window drop problem
Discussion
Seems my 2006 vantage has developed two odd faults today - the other one is in a different thread.
My drive side window is not dropping when it should. It does not drop when I pull the exterior handle or the interior handle. It does drop immediately that I begin to open the door and it raises when I close the door. It's not that I am opening too quickly - same thing if I wait several seconds.
I have tried forcing a relearn and it makes no difference.
I assume there is a micro switch for the door handles that needs adjusting our replacing?
My drive side window is not dropping when it should. It does not drop when I pull the exterior handle or the interior handle. It does drop immediately that I begin to open the door and it raises when I close the door. It's not that I am opening too quickly - same thing if I wait several seconds.
I have tried forcing a relearn and it makes no difference.
I assume there is a micro switch for the door handles that needs adjusting our replacing?
I've having the same problem. Mine is booked in to be fixed in a weeks time. I popped into Works to see if they could reset it having done the 're-learn' and hard reset using pulling the fuse myself, but it seems something is actually broken. They said they suspected the switch or sensor in the window motor, but would have to investigate further when they got it in again. Must be a bit of a common problem, and rather annoying isn't it!
Ah, you have to love these cars.
I decided maybe I should try a hard reset - I found posts saying I either need to disconnect power to the module or pull fuse 82. But I also found a post saying that maybe using the battery disconnect switch might do it - so I tried that.
Unfortunately, once you've used that - you can't start the car 'cos it says "Check the battery disconnect switch". That's OK I thought - I'll check the manual to see what I need to do next. Except the manual is in the glove compartment. Which has an electronic switch. Which is disabled by the battery disconnect switch.....
Still, I found the reset switch and all is now good - although it didn't solve the problem. However, I suspect the battery disconnect might not remove power to the window anyway since that would make it tricky to open the door. May pull fuse 82 later.
I decided maybe I should try a hard reset - I found posts saying I either need to disconnect power to the module or pull fuse 82. But I also found a post saying that maybe using the battery disconnect switch might do it - so I tried that.
Unfortunately, once you've used that - you can't start the car 'cos it says "Check the battery disconnect switch". That's OK I thought - I'll check the manual to see what I need to do next. Except the manual is in the glove compartment. Which has an electronic switch. Which is disabled by the battery disconnect switch.....
Still, I found the reset switch and all is now good - although it didn't solve the problem. However, I suspect the battery disconnect might not remove power to the window anyway since that would make it tricky to open the door. May pull fuse 82 later.
So, I went to a local Aston Indy today to see what they thought of my window.
They said that the early vantages (mine is 2006) do not have micro switches for the handles - this was added to later cars because people were opening the doors to quickly. I said that mine had seemed to drop with the handle when I got it last week but he was adamant my car is working normally.
When I got home, I experimented with the passenger door which is working. In fact, that doesn't drop the window when pull the handle - if I keep the door pushed closed the window doesn't move. Instead, as I pull the handle, the door moves out just a mm or so as the rubber seals push it out - and that causes the window to to drop. The driver door didn't do that - and when I washed the car earlier this week I did notice a sprinkling of water on top of the lower seal on the drivers side, but not on the passenger side.
So I've just adjusted my driver side striker plate. I moved it a mm at most, but I'd say about half that. Back of the door is still aligned but now pulling the door handle causes the door to move out very slightly and that drops the window. Next time I clean it I'll see if it's dry on the seal or whether I need to move it in just a shade more.
They said that the early vantages (mine is 2006) do not have micro switches for the handles - this was added to later cars because people were opening the doors to quickly. I said that mine had seemed to drop with the handle when I got it last week but he was adamant my car is working normally.
When I got home, I experimented with the passenger door which is working. In fact, that doesn't drop the window when pull the handle - if I keep the door pushed closed the window doesn't move. Instead, as I pull the handle, the door moves out just a mm or so as the rubber seals push it out - and that causes the window to to drop. The driver door didn't do that - and when I washed the car earlier this week I did notice a sprinkling of water on top of the lower seal on the drivers side, but not on the passenger side.
So I've just adjusted my driver side striker plate. I moved it a mm at most, but I'd say about half that. Back of the door is still aligned but now pulling the door handle causes the door to move out very slightly and that drops the window. Next time I clean it I'll see if it's dry on the seal or whether I need to move it in just a shade more.
Hi, might be totally off base here but if they use the same window system as BMW Minis, these require the window to be wound all the way down and all the way up to "learn" the max movement of the glass.
The above needs to be carried out with the door closed. Otherwise the glass does not drop a few millimeters on opening and more crucially on closing. The air gap, as I am sure you know, stops the glass taking the brunt of the air pressure as the door closes.
Worth a shot?
Also I believe the 996 uses the same system, this from Pope our resident Porsche tech:
"Power windows:
The limit positions of the power windows are deleted from the control module when the battery is disconnected and connected.
Remedy:
Manually close each power window as far as it will go, then press the rocker switch for closing the window again. The limit position of the respective power window is now stored in the control module again."
I think to delete the current stored position you need to disconnect the battery.
Hope this helps
The above needs to be carried out with the door closed. Otherwise the glass does not drop a few millimeters on opening and more crucially on closing. The air gap, as I am sure you know, stops the glass taking the brunt of the air pressure as the door closes.
Worth a shot?
Also I believe the 996 uses the same system, this from Pope our resident Porsche tech:
"Power windows:
The limit positions of the power windows are deleted from the control module when the battery is disconnected and connected.
Remedy:
Manually close each power window as far as it will go, then press the rocker switch for closing the window again. The limit position of the respective power window is now stored in the control module again."
I think to delete the current stored position you need to disconnect the battery.
Hope this helps
My 2007 V8 vantage. Drivers window issue. Firstly. Aston diagnostic cannot work out if the window issue is either module or regulator. So the the windows modules have been superseded with replacement ones. And these can only be fitted as a pair. Along with a new configuration file down load. After this we learn it’s probably the regulator that’s at fault. However my wing mirrors now retract with central locking activated with the fob. I’ll update when the new regulator is fitted. This is reference to the window up/down in short moves fault.
Leroy007 said:
My 2007 V8 vantage. Drivers window issue. Firstly. Aston diagnostic cannot work out if the window issue is either module or regulator. So the the windows modules have been superseded with replacement ones. And these can only be fitted as a pair. Along with a new configuration file down load. After this we learn it’s probably the regulator that’s at fault. However my wing mirrors now retract with central locking activated with the fob. I’ll update when the new regulator is fitted. This is reference to the window up/down in short moves fault.
. Well after I’ve had the new modules and update for a while now.this morning the passenger side window decided to forget about the short drop when opening the window,and goes all the way down. The window can still be close. Once your in and ignition on. Which is something. My update before it goes in next week for two cam sensors and check the window. Is that the hold button reset option goes when you’ve had the update done with new modules. You no longer get that cloink sound after holding down etc. I’ll update when they’ve checked it out.Theres me thinking,new modules in job done. davek_964 said:
Moving the strike plate slightly did solve it for me - in fact, I'd forgotten this thread even existed!
Had the same issue with the passenger window on my 2010 DB9. Had tried all the usual suggestions - going through a cycle of full up/full down to recalibrate; pulling fuse 82 to do a power recycle, and none of them worked.I’ve just moved the strike plate in about 2mm and that seems to have sorted it! Thanks for the suggestion.
Hi there, just bought my 2009 DB9 and found (almost) similar issue:
on passenger side everything works (not sure if reprogramming does at is worked prior and after...tried to artifically tell it to stop earlier by putting an extra cloth in, that didnt change anything)
on driver side nothing seems to work + (and maybe the most worrying part) the glass slightly collides with the rear glass on the very top edge.
As if
- either the door or window would be sagging a bit or
- the window stops too late and therefore (when touching the edge of the frame further up front) pushes itself further towards the back of the car, leading to that overlap with the rear (b-pillar) window.
Anyone ever faced similar problem?
Cheers, Stefan
PS: have some tape on the rear window to not have the windows clash glass to glass when I happen to close with window fully up.
on passenger side everything works (not sure if reprogramming does at is worked prior and after...tried to artifically tell it to stop earlier by putting an extra cloth in, that didnt change anything)
on driver side nothing seems to work + (and maybe the most worrying part) the glass slightly collides with the rear glass on the very top edge.
As if
- either the door or window would be sagging a bit or
- the window stops too late and therefore (when touching the edge of the frame further up front) pushes itself further towards the back of the car, leading to that overlap with the rear (b-pillar) window.
Anyone ever faced similar problem?
Cheers, Stefan
PS: have some tape on the rear window to not have the windows clash glass to glass when I happen to close with window fully up.
Is the shut gap on the door is not aligned to the rear wing (all the way up) you may get away with just realigning the striker plate up where the door locks onto.
If it is aligned then it would need the window adjusting and would require the door panel to be removed for adjustment of the window mechanism.
Lots of info on https://aston1936.com re DB9 procedures.
Be careful if the glass is hitting the rear glass as both windows are toughened and could break if they hit each other hard enough.
Hope that you get sorted.
If it is aligned then it would need the window adjusting and would require the door panel to be removed for adjustment of the window mechanism.
Lots of info on https://aston1936.com re DB9 procedures.
Be careful if the glass is hitting the rear glass as both windows are toughened and could break if they hit each other hard enough.
Hope that you get sorted.
Gassing Station | Aston Martin | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff