E91 Straight Six Bearding

E91 Straight Six Bearding

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Discussion

bmwmike

2,963 posts

70 months

Monday 11th January
quotequote all
helix402 said:
bmwmike said:
Interesting suggestion - how does that work?
The cat or post cat lambda sensor gets a bit tired. The spacer moves the sensor away from the gases so the sensor thinks the post cat emissions are ok. It’s a slight bodge-but-it often works and it’s cheap. Also post cat emissions don’t really affect the engines operation.

(I’ve done it before and it worked).
ahh makes sense - neat! Will file that away as it may come in handy some day. Got to love a cheap fix.

helix402

5,965 posts

144 months

Monday 11th January
quotequote all
beambeam1 said:
Nice one, thanks. I've ordered matching H7 bulbs as whilst I'm in there I may as well swap them all.

Brake hoses, just ordered some (2 x front, 4 x rear). Aside from brake fluid and a spare pair of legs is there anything else I may need before tackling the replacement of these? Fronts were an advisory at last MOT and the brakes are feeling a bit soft.
Front hoses normally seize to the hard pipes, care is needed to remove them. Rear brake pipes are often rusty.

g3org3y

16,131 posts

153 months

Monday 11th January
quotequote all
bmwmike said:
helix402 said:
bmwmike said:
Interesting suggestion - how does that work?
The cat or post cat lambda sensor gets a bit tired. The spacer moves the sensor away from the gases so the sensor thinks the post cat emissions are ok. It’s a slight bodge-but-it often works and it’s cheap. Also post cat emissions don’t really affect the engines operation.

(I’ve done it before and it worked).
ahh makes sense - neat! Will file that away as it may come in handy some day. Got to love a cheap fix.
Could be something to look into.

Wife drove car Sunday pm and the EML came on again.

beambeam1

164 posts

5 months

Monday 11th January
quotequote all
helix402 said:
Front hoses normally seize to the hard pipes, care is needed to remove them. Rear brake pipes are often rusty.
Cheers. I'm hoping there isn't too much drama since the callipers look in great nick with it being a Japanese import but I always like to lean on the experience of others so I can be prepared for the silly little things that can go wrong but turn it into a mission.

Since this thread is the Oracle and in case anyone needs the details here at part no. and prices for 2 x front and 4 x rear brake pipe hoses on the pre-lci 325i:

BMW Edinburgh

1. 2 x 34306790550 £32.99+vat each
2. 2 x 34306798523 £21.36+vat each
3. 2 x 34306792253 £23.98+vat each

Total = £187.96 (prices with discount)

Pentland Components

1. 2 x 34306790550 £11.30+vat each
2. 2 x 34306798523 £10.94+vat each
3. 2 x 34306792253 £11.11+vat each

Total = £80.04

Gone with the latter. Didn't go for braided as I've seen a few people describing them as tough to work with and needing a bit of rotational force to get them into position. Didn't want to make a bigger job of it than it needs to be.

Swervin_Mervin

3,412 posts

200 months

Monday 11th January
quotequote all
zippyonline said:
ferrisbueller said:
Swervin_Mervin said:
I don't think the early ones have IBS.
I'd have to look again but I don't think mine does (I think it's a late 05 build).

I bought an Exide battery of similar, if not same, capacity and swapped it in. No issues a couple of years down the line.
Mine doesn't have it (Nove 2005 build, no nav or idrive) - and sounds like yours doesn't just by the fact your battery went flat like that. Look for some additional wiring on your negative clamp on the battery, rather than just one big clamp connected to it.

I'd be inclined to throw the battery on the CTEK and see what happens. It's also got really cold quite quickly - and when I "broke down" and got recovered in the Lakes, I actually worked out it was just some moisture had managed to get between the battery terminals and the connectors - a quick clean up and all has been well since.
I think I'm actually going to try a CTEK before replacing the battery. A part of me wants to be able to keep the original item going for some perverse reason. Besides, even if I get a new one, the car won't be moving much for some time anyway so I may as well get a charger to keep it healthy.

ferrisbueller

26,006 posts

189 months

Monday 11th January
quotequote all
beambeam1 said:
Cheers. I'm hoping there isn't too much drama since the callipers look in great nick with it being a Japanese import but I always like to lean on the experience of others so I can be prepared for the silly little things that can go wrong but turn it into a mission.

Since this thread is the Oracle and in case anyone needs the details here at part no. and prices for 2 x front and 4 x rear brake pipe hoses on the pre-lci 325i:

BMW Edinburgh

1. 2 x 34306790550 £32.99+vat each
2. 2 x 34306798523 £21.36+vat each
3. 2 x 34306792253 £23.98+vat each

Total = £187.96 (prices with discount)

Pentland Components

1. 2 x 34306790550 £11.30+vat each
2. 2 x 34306798523 £10.94+vat each
3. 2 x 34306792253 £11.11+vat each

Total = £80.04

Gone with the latter. Didn't go for braided as I've seen a few people describing them as tough to work with and needing a bit of rotational force to get them into position. Didn't want to make a bigger job of it than it needs to be.
HEL hoses aren't much more than the standard BMW rubber ones. Fitted some a while ago, no bother at all.

Edited by ferrisbueller on Monday 11th January 14:48

Jakg

2,630 posts

130 months

Monday 11th January
quotequote all
beambeam1 said:
Gone with the latter. Didn't go for braided as I've seen a few people describing them as tough to work with and needing a bit of rotational force to get them into position. Didn't want to make a bigger job of it than it needs to be.
Bit late but I've always found them much easier to fit, especially if you spec them with the swivel end fittings. Plus, I reckon they would've been the same price if not a smidge cheaper.

EDIT - I've just realised I've posted twice in this thread now. Hope the straight six 335 diesel is still welcomed.

eezeh

1,974 posts

57 months

Monday 11th January
quotequote all
Lets talk service items
Car just clocked over 100k this morning, the next service is due so what should I be doing / looking out for?

Plan to do the following:
pollen filter
air filter
oil & filter
manual gearbox fluid
diff fluid

I have heard the thermostat & egr thermostat, water pump and egr can cause issues around this mileage?
Checking the crank case breather (not sure if I have one being 07?) Cleaning EGR and inlet manifold has also been suggested.
What else should I pay close attention to.
What do you guys run between oil changes? In my Ti it was every 10k.

Cheers

Side note- what oil do you recommend for the various driveline components?

Edited by eezeh on Monday 11th January 22:04

JakeT

3,922 posts

82 months

Monday 11th January
quotequote all
I'd probably look at the breather in the valve cover too. Maybe inspect some of the vacuum hoses, since they can cause funny issues on the M57.Also, The air filter is a TOTAL PAIN. Otherwise, I think you're spot on with it all.

I also do every 10k, because it normalises out nicely. Every round number is time for a service. smile

eezeh

1,974 posts

57 months

Monday 11th January
quotequote all
JakeT said:
I'd probably look at the breather in the valve cover too. Maybe inspect some of the vacuum hoses, since they can cause funny issues on the M57.Also, The air filter is a TOTAL PAIN. Otherwise, I think you're spot on with it all.

I also do every 10k, because it normalises out nicely. Every round number is time for a service. smile
Remove strut bar to get the filter out? madness. This time I will be keeping stock of consumables, including the stretch bolts attaching the strut bar! irked

Jakg

2,630 posts

130 months

Monday 11th January
quotequote all
eezeh said:
I have heard the thermostat & egr thermostat, water pump and egr can cause issues around this mileage?
You can test the thermostat(s) easily enough using the "hidden menu". I'd do that and only change if a problem.

eezeh

1,974 posts

57 months

Tuesday 12th January
quotequote all
Jakg said:
You can test the thermostat(s) easily enough using the "hidden menu". I'd do that and only change if a problem.
Over the course of a 50mile motorway journey it hovered around 62-65 and peaked at 70 going up a hill.. Time for a new one I think?

Jakg

2,630 posts

130 months

Tuesday 12th January
quotequote all
eezeh said:
Over the course of a 50mile motorway journey it hovered around 62-65 and peaked at 70 going up a hill.. Time for a new one I think?
Definately.

skullandbiscuits

59 posts

69 months

Tuesday 12th January
quotequote all
New to E91 ownership (current car is E38). Got a 325i touring and I would like to do the valve cover gasket. Anything else I should consider "whilst I'm there" valvetronic seal comes to mind.

helix402

5,965 posts

144 months

Tuesday 12th January
quotequote all
eezeh said:
Over the course of a 50mile motorway journey it hovered around 62-65 and peaked at 70 going up a hill.. Time for a new one I think?
There are 2 thermostats on the diesel.

beambeam1

164 posts

5 months

Tuesday 12th January
quotequote all
skullandbiscuits said:
New to E91 ownership (current car is E38). Got a 325i touring and I would like to do the valve cover gasket. Anything else I should consider "whilst I'm there" valvetronic seal comes to mind.
I did this last month. May as well do the oil filter housing and oil cooler gaskets whilst you're poking around in there. A lot of guides out there but would remove the coolant expansion tank and disconnect various other items to give yourself as much room as possible, removing the cover can be fiddly so you want to give yourself as much clearance as possible.

JakeT

3,922 posts

82 months

Tuesday 12th January
quotequote all
eezeh said:
Remove strut bar to get the filter out? madness. This time I will be keeping stock of consumables, including the stretch bolts attaching the strut bar! irked
I'll be honest, mine have come off a few times and I haven't replaced them. It's the same as the the E46 where the bolts holding the chassis brace underneath were supposed to be single use. I also re-used them. hehe

On your recommendations of oils, I'm sure you know but any LL-04 5w30 would be my go to for an M57. For diff oil, a good 75-140 should do the trick. I couldn't comment on gearbox oil though, as mine was done before I bought it.

As also mentioned, I'd do the pair of thermostats. The temps you're seeing isn't enough, my E46 330d did similar temps too and needed thermostats. There's one for the engine and one for the EGR cooler. Replacing them made a difference in fuel economy, and in your case will keep the DPF happy, as these cars won't trigger a DPF regen if the temps aren't right.

Otherwise you should be sorted. Maybe a scan of the DDE if you've got INPA/Carly/other diag kit and stick some miles on it. smile

helix402

5,965 posts

144 months

Tuesday 12th January
quotequote all
The diff oil is Castrol Syntrax, 75w90, the 140 is for LSDs. The brace bolts on the E91 do tend to come loose if not replaced.

JakeT

3,922 posts

82 months

Tuesday 12th January
quotequote all
helix402 said:
The diff oil is Castrol Syntrax, 75w90, the 140 is for LSDs. The brace bolts on the E91 do tend to come loose if not replaced.
That's good to know, thanks Helix. I've not replaced mine but also not noticed that they've loosened off when removing. I'll look into some new ones though. Is it just the outer ones, or does the one in the middle also need replacing?

Swervin_Mervin

3,412 posts

200 months

Tuesday 12th January
quotequote all
Will check part nos later against realoem but fairly sure this is original



Anyone got a view on which ctek? MXS5 or CT5?