E91 Straight Six Bearding
Discussion
Hopefully will get a good look at this situation later today. Got a covid vaccination clinic this morning.
When I got home last night checked a few bits in the dark.
Codes from the CAS
I've not had any problems with the electric steering lock, so may be historical. Cleared them so will see if it comes up again. Not sure about the supply terminal code.
Codes for the Comfort access
I know CA isn't working properly. Will unlock on driver's side but won't lock so that makes sense. Where is the interior aerial passenger side?
I attached the CTek and locked the car. Stop/start button is now NOT on. Either the clearing of the codes has helped or the charger is compensating for the drain and allowing the car to turn off properly.
When I got home last night checked a few bits in the dark.
Codes from the CAS
I've not had any problems with the electric steering lock, so may be historical. Cleared them so will see if it comes up again. Not sure about the supply terminal code.
Codes for the Comfort access
I know CA isn't working properly. Will unlock on driver's side but won't lock so that makes sense. Where is the interior aerial passenger side?
I attached the CTek and locked the car. Stop/start button is now NOT on. Either the clearing of the codes has helped or the charger is compensating for the drain and allowing the car to turn off properly.
Been at work half an hour now. Went out to check the car, Stop/start light is off. The P on the autobox selector is on though (not sure whether this is normal). I intentionally used my spare key for the car which doesn't have Comfort Access coded to it.
Given the above, I suppose the question I have is over the significance of the illuminated stop/start light (when the car is off/locked):
- Does it mean car is in 'snooze' (not OFF) for whatever reason (eg faulty CAS or CA module).
- Does it mean battery low (for whatever reason) and now that it has been charged overnight to expect it to be extinguished.
Edit: Checked again, both Stop Start and Park button off.
Edit 2: And it's back on.
Baby g3org3y is unwell at the moment, so no time to mess about with this today. Might get a chance tomorrow.
Given the above, I suppose the question I have is over the significance of the illuminated stop/start light (when the car is off/locked):
- Does it mean car is in 'snooze' (not OFF) for whatever reason (eg faulty CAS or CA module).
- Does it mean battery low (for whatever reason) and now that it has been charged overnight to expect it to be extinguished.
Edit: Checked again, both Stop Start and Park button off.
Edit 2: And it's back on.
Baby g3org3y is unwell at the moment, so no time to mess about with this today. Might get a chance tomorrow.
Edited by g3org3y on Saturday 27th February 17:43
In a bid to get some more information out there to prevent people having a bad time with their cars, I've a suggestion to the owners here:
Lube your boot hinges.
What a revelation, I know. I always thought the bootlid on my car, and the glass were a bit stiff. I even replaced the boot struts as they didn't seem to be lifting the boot properly. New ones were better, but not ideal. Then, over the cold snap they were really stiff. The window being particularly reluctant to move. I could even see the N/S hinge flexing. I gave the hinges a shot of Lithium spray and thought that would do it. But the stiffness remained. After some reading, these hinges get dirt and moisture inside and can snap. Replacing the hinges is a sad job, the previous owner of my car has replaced one.
In light of this, I thought I'd set out to lubricate them. In this case, I spent about an hour spraying WD-40, and moving the glass back and forth. Using paper towels to catch the WD-40 and muck, a lot came out. I lubed the following areas liberally:
And for a closer look... (I need to do some more cleaning in there it seems
)
The labelled points move with the glass portion. Only one hinge part moves with the bootlid. With the glass already open, the bootlid was very easy to move.
The glass did losen off eventually, and then I kept doing the above actions, and it did free off nicely. Finished off with the Lithium spray to keep further dirt and moisture out. The boot opens and shuts a lot more nicely now, as does the glass. Hopefully it should also mean I don't need to replace the boot hinges, either.
Lube your boot hinges.
What a revelation, I know. I always thought the bootlid on my car, and the glass were a bit stiff. I even replaced the boot struts as they didn't seem to be lifting the boot properly. New ones were better, but not ideal. Then, over the cold snap they were really stiff. The window being particularly reluctant to move. I could even see the N/S hinge flexing. I gave the hinges a shot of Lithium spray and thought that would do it. But the stiffness remained. After some reading, these hinges get dirt and moisture inside and can snap. Replacing the hinges is a sad job, the previous owner of my car has replaced one.
In light of this, I thought I'd set out to lubricate them. In this case, I spent about an hour spraying WD-40, and moving the glass back and forth. Using paper towels to catch the WD-40 and muck, a lot came out. I lubed the following areas liberally:
And for a closer look... (I need to do some more cleaning in there it seems
)The labelled points move with the glass portion. Only one hinge part moves with the bootlid. With the glass already open, the bootlid was very easy to move.
The glass did losen off eventually, and then I kept doing the above actions, and it did free off nicely. Finished off with the Lithium spray to keep further dirt and moisture out. The boot opens and shuts a lot more nicely now, as does the glass. Hopefully it should also mean I don't need to replace the boot hinges, either.
^^Good advice. Prevention always better than cure.
Speaking of which, had an issue with the E91's 'Angle connector with heating element' resulting in some fire.
Looks like there has been a recall about this in the states: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2017/RCRIT-17V683...
Helpful link with details here: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14...
Speaking of which, had an issue with the E91's 'Angle connector with heating element' resulting in some fire.
Looks like there has been a recall about this in the states: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2017/RCRIT-17V683...
BMW said:
The blow-by-heater which is designed to prevent the engine’s Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system
from freezing can internally short circuit. The electrical contacts of the blow-by-heater are coated with a plastic
material. Irregularities in the manufacturing process could allow moisture to occur near the blow-by-heater and
lead to the short circuit.
This Recall Campaign involves E82, E88, E90, E91, E92, E93, E60, E61, F10, E83, F25, E70, E85, E89 and
E86 vehicles produced from February 2006 to December 2011.
Based on the recall info, it looks like it's accessed by moving the alternator rather than removing the whole inlet manifold,from freezing can internally short circuit. The electrical contacts of the blow-by-heater are coated with a plastic
material. Irregularities in the manufacturing process could allow moisture to occur near the blow-by-heater and
lead to the short circuit.
This Recall Campaign involves E82, E88, E90, E91, E92, E93, E60, E61, F10, E83, F25, E70, E85, E89 and
E86 vehicles produced from February 2006 to December 2011.
Helpful link with details here: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14...
JakeT said:
Lube your boot hinges.
TY for that i will clean mine out and spray some white lithium in there, WD40 wont last long at all im afraid. Incidentally just changed my boot struts.Got the sunroof working again, cleaned out the tracks, white lithium sprayed in there and all is well.
Will probably use the proper bmw grease in the summer when i change the sunroof seal.
JakeT said:
In a bid to get some more information out there to prevent people having a bad time with their cars, I've a suggestion to the owners here:
Lube your boot hinges.
What a revelation, I know. I always thought the bootlid on my car, and the glass were a bit stiff. I even replaced the boot struts as they didn't seem to be lifting the boot properly. New ones were better, but not ideal. Then, over the cold snap they were really stiff. The window being particularly reluctant to move. I could even see the N/S hinge flexing. I gave the hinges a shot of Lithium spray and thought that would do it. But the stiffness remained. After some reading, these hinges get dirt and moisture inside and can snap. Replacing the hinges is a sad job, the previous owner of my car has replaced one.
In light of this, I thought I'd set out to lubricate them. In this case, I spent about an hour spraying WD-40, and moving the glass back and forth. Using paper towels to catch the WD-40 and muck, a lot came out. I lubed the following areas liberally:
And for a closer look... (I need to do some more cleaning in there it seems )
The labelled points move with the glass portion. Only one hinge part moves with the bootlid. With the glass already open, the bootlid was very easy to move.
The glass did losen off eventually, and then I kept doing the above actions, and it did free off nicely. Finished off with the Lithium spray to keep further dirt and moisture out. The boot opens and shuts a lot more nicely now, as does the glass. Hopefully it should also mean I don't need to replace the boot hinges, either.
In the olden days hinges would be lubed every Inspection service according to the service schedule. Then BMW decided that their hinges were magic and no longer required lubrication. Wise owners grease em all every service. Lube your boot hinges.
What a revelation, I know. I always thought the bootlid on my car, and the glass were a bit stiff. I even replaced the boot struts as they didn't seem to be lifting the boot properly. New ones were better, but not ideal. Then, over the cold snap they were really stiff. The window being particularly reluctant to move. I could even see the N/S hinge flexing. I gave the hinges a shot of Lithium spray and thought that would do it. But the stiffness remained. After some reading, these hinges get dirt and moisture inside and can snap. Replacing the hinges is a sad job, the previous owner of my car has replaced one.
In light of this, I thought I'd set out to lubricate them. In this case, I spent about an hour spraying WD-40, and moving the glass back and forth. Using paper towels to catch the WD-40 and muck, a lot came out. I lubed the following areas liberally:
And for a closer look... (I need to do some more cleaning in there it seems
)The labelled points move with the glass portion. Only one hinge part moves with the bootlid. With the glass already open, the bootlid was very easy to move.
The glass did losen off eventually, and then I kept doing the above actions, and it did free off nicely. Finished off with the Lithium spray to keep further dirt and moisture out. The boot opens and shuts a lot more nicely now, as does the glass. Hopefully it should also mean I don't need to replace the boot hinges, either.
helix402 said:
In the olden days hinges would be lubed every Inspection service according to the service schedule. Then BMW decided that their hinges were magic and no longer required lubrication. Wise owners grease em all every service.
what else should be lubed every inspection, i know the sunroof should be and now know the boot lid hinges should be.what else?
g3org3y said:
Based on the recall info, it looks like it's accessed by moving the alternator rather than removing the whole inlet manifold,
Bleddy Nora, George. Good spot. It annoys me BMW UK Don't recall cars here that suffer from those issues. I suppose with multiple N52s in the household you'll have to sort it 3x too.eezeh said:
TY for that i will clean mine out and spray some white lithium in there, WD40 wont last long at all im afraid. Incidentally just changed my boot struts.
Got the sunroof working again, cleaned out the tracks, white lithium sprayed in there and all is well.
Will probably use the proper bmw grease in the summer when i change the sunroof seal.
I used WD-40 to free it off, and then the lithium spray to keep it right. Got the sunroof working again, cleaned out the tracks, white lithium sprayed in there and all is well.
Will probably use the proper bmw grease in the summer when i change the sunroof seal.
helix402 said:
In the olden days hinges would be lubed every Inspection service according to the service schedule. Then BMW decided that their hinges were magic and no longer required lubrication. Wise owners grease em all every service.
I agree, Helix. I normally give a shot of white lithium grease on the door check straps, bonnet catches and door hinges when I service it myself. I just didn't realise how bad the boot hinges had gotten.A Honda mechanic I know from 'back in the day' used to perform a 'brake service' on vehicles whenever they had a major service. Strip, clean and re-grease the pins. I doubt that would happen now!
JakeT said:
g3org3y said:
Based on the recall info, it looks like it's accessed by moving the alternator rather than removing the whole inlet manifold,
Bleddy Nora, George. Good spot. It annoys me BMW UK Don't recall cars here that suffer from those issues. I suppose with multiple N52s in the household you'll have to sort it 3x too.In other (better!) news, removal of the #19 fuse (disabling the comfort access) seems to have sorted the permanently illuminated stop/start button issue. It now goes out very quickly after locking and the P on the autobox selector goes out after 10-15 mins (normal). Fingers crossed it stays that way.
g3org3y said:
Something to think about definitely...another 2 to unplug.
In other (better!) news, removal of the #19 fuse (disabling the comfort access) seems to have sorted the permanently illuminated stop/start button issue. It now goes out very quickly after locking and the P on the autobox selector goes out after 10-15 mins (normal). Fingers crossed it stays that way.
Oh that is good. I read a few years ago that handles that don't work properly can cause the CA system to keep the car awake, and drain the battery. Some people either unplug the handles, or pull the fuse. I'd pull the fuse, as CA has been known to be a security issue. Normally I'd say who wants to nick an old BMW, but we had the good lady's Z3 get nicked last year so I wouldn't want to take the chances. In other (better!) news, removal of the #19 fuse (disabling the comfort access) seems to have sorted the permanently illuminated stop/start button issue. It now goes out very quickly after locking and the P on the autobox selector goes out after 10-15 mins (normal). Fingers crossed it stays that way.
g3org3y said:
Based on the recall info, it looks like it's accessed by moving the alternator rather than removing the whole inlet manifold,
Helpful link with details here: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14...
Many thanks for highlighting that. Helpful link with details here: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14...
I think I need to disconnect the one on my 330i!
JakeT said:
It's been a while but the genuine BMW spark plugs are NGKs, Ferris. I'm a fan of NGKs and only fit them. Never had an issue, and I change at 50,000 mile intervals (usually).
BMW part number 12122158253 can be a Bosch or NGK plug if you order from BMW. The NGK plug is more expensive for some reason.ferrisbueller said:
I'm N52. To be clear though, the Bosch plugs come direct from BMW, sealed in BMW packaging, and have BMW printed on the plug body. There is a separate manufacturer part number on the packaging.
Interesting. If they're good enough to be put in BMW packaging, I'm sure they're good enough for just about all punters.In case it's any help, the last set I put in my car is:
https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-64024-ngk-ilzfr6d11-1...
I've had no issues since, and they're pre gapped (I'm sure the BOSCH ones are too).
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